[ROVERNET - UK]P6 Rear Brakes AAaaaarrrgghhh

[Paul Smith]

1.  Yes.
2.  Possible, but might as well leave it up there if you are going to do
that.  Just take the discs off, that's my preference for getting to the
calipers.

PVS

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Glen Wilson" <glenwilson at ixpres.com>
To: <royston at jualry.fsnet.co.uk>; <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 29, 2004 5:15 AM
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK]P6 Rear Brakes AAaaaarrrgghhh


> Thanks to all who have responded so far.
>
> Questions:
>
> 1. Are we talking about completely removing the differential including
> its extension to the prop shaft?
> 2. Is it possible to remove the halfshafts and disks and then lower the
> differential on a jack without disconnecting at the front? Enough to
> gain access to the top?
>
> Alan FRANCIS wrote:
>
> > Hi Glen,
> >   Done em a few times and despite knowing all (i think) the little
tricks
> > they still piss me off!
> >
> > I prefer the dropped half shaft method but if you have the necessary
lifting
> > gear and access then the diff drop option is worth considering if only
to
> > save yourself reconnecting the link hose between the two calipers, a
real
> > pig of a job, and despite what you think you CANNOT join the calipers
off
> > the car and get them in situ underneath, nope there just aint enough
room!
> >
> > Much has already been said so forgive the repetion, remove half shafts
> > (straightforward) remove the handbrake linkage at the front of the diff
then
> > remove the large funny nut at the from the front of the pivot pin
15/16th AF
> > spanner/wrench i think. Ease the tension on the pivot pin by slacking
off
> > the nut at the other end (back) of the caliper 9/16th spanner. The pivot
pin
> > will undo ok then with an Allen key, if not untensioned you risk
rounding
> > the Allen key hole (lots of force required, very small contact area).
Remove
> > the pin (fiddly but it will pass the handbrake linkage).
> >
> > You will then need to seperate the calipers, be afraid, be very afraid.
:(
> >
> > Must be akin to keyhole surgery! You may consider removing the 3 bolts
that
> > hold the diff to the diff mounting plate and letting it drop at the
back,
> > not tried it but there may be enough room to get them out still
connected
> > and replace the same way. If there is its probably worth the effort.The
> > rebuild is straightforward, well covered in many manuals and easy for a
man
> > of your abilities. ;) One tip is piston removal, if tight (they usually
are)
> > squirt some WD40 or other easing fluid into the bore, hold caliper in
left
> > hand (if right handed) or suspend from the ceiling with the piston
aperture
> > facing downwards. Give a sharp (but gentle) whack with a hammer against
the
> > caliper body in the upwards direction and the piston will come out even
if
> > 50 psi down the brake pipe hole has failed, ask Ben the coracle builder
of
> > PEI ;). Whilst the big cap is off check the ratcheting device works OK
to
> > push the piston out. Replacement is the reverse. As they say in all
Haynes
> > manuals. Bleeding is not to bad, leave the disc off on the bleeding side
as
> > it makes access easier (don't worry the piston WONT pop out)and after
> > bleeding you may just need to turn the piston back a little if it has
> > rotated.Once discs are back on turn the handbrake linkage by hand to
ensure
> > close contact with discs before re-connecting the linkage.
> > Good luck, as they say, we who have been there before will be thinking
of
> > you
> >
> > Regards
> >
> > Alan Francis (Part Viking)
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
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> >
>
> -- 
> Glen Wilson
> Suburban Philadelphia
> USA
>
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