[ROVERNET - UK]Motor Oil for Old Cars etc.

Tom Trafton v8rover at earthlink.net
Thu Jun 24 18:37:33 BST 2004

Hi Fritz

I have that web page stored somewhere and will send it to you later today.
I first posted the page on Rovernet last year sometime.  It is a layman's
study but very informative.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Fritz Rauschenberg" <wfritz at mindspring.com>
To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 24, 2004 8:07 AM
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK]Motor Oil for Old Cars etc.

> Hi All,
> Does anyone have the e-mail regarding the oil filter study that someone
did a while
> back. I can't find it in my file though I thought I saved it. Thanks in
advance for
> any help.
> Fritz Rauschenberg
> Atlanta, GA
> Rover1964 at att.net wrote:
> > This is an article I encountered in one of the British car club News
Letter to
> > which I subscribe.  You may find it of interest.  On the other hand, you
> > not.  Regards.
> > Fritz
> >
> > Hello all,
> >      I've read with interest all of the various bits of advice offered
> > our proud new Austin ten owner. And I have found it to be generally good
> > advice, and have found a few remarks useful to my own interests as well.
> >      But I have to take issue with some of the comments regarding motor
> > specifically multi-viscosity, versus single weight oils.
> >      I'm astonished by how often I will hear or read someone describing
> > 10w 40 as oil that is as thin as 10 weight when it is cold, and thickens
> > 40weight when it is hot.
> >      To all those who believe this to be true, go and get a quart of 10w
> > oil and divide the contents, and put them into two glass containers.
> > one in your freezer over night. The following day take the other and
heat it
> > to 100 degrees Celsius. Now pour both oils and see which is "thinner."
> >      For those who would like to really understand motor oil properties,
> > I'll provide a couple of excellent, if fairly technical links at the end
> > this rant, but for those who don't have the energy to wade through it
all, a
> > one sentence over simplifications is this:
> >      10w 40 will become much thinner when it is hot. but it will not be
> > thinner than straight 40 weight, if it were hot. Likewise, it will not
> > thicker than 10W would be when it is cold.
> >      But as these articles will point out, there is much else to be
> > considered when choosing a motor oil. First of all, most of what people
> > refer to as the viscosity of an oil, (10w, 30w, etc.) isn't really the
> > viscosity, but rather the viscosity index. Similar, but not quite the
> > and with some important differences.
> >      With old engines, and especially very old engines, one of the
things to
> > think about isn't just simply the viscosity, but also the "barrier film
> > thickness." Once again, I'll attempt a criminal oversimplification. Put
> > metal plate onto a tray full of 1/8 inch ball bearings, and slide it
> > Now do the same with a tray full of 1/2 ball bearings. Both will move
> > nearly equal ease, but look at the distance that separates the tray from
> > plate. Now picture two equally "slippery" motor oils, but one consists
> > much larger molecules than the other? Now which will do the best job of
> > providing a lubricating barrier between an old crankshaft and a
> > rod bearing, built to 50 year old tolerances?
> >        I have heard of several instances where old motors, in good
> > condition, even newly rebuilt, were not adequately protected by modern
> > that had a very high lubricity, but inadequate film thickness.
> >      Hopefully, some petrochemical engineer out there will read this,
> > correct my errors, and provide more info. Meanwhile, I will continue to
> > straight 30 or 40 weight oils in very old motors.
> >      I do frequently add one quart of 20W50 pure synthetic to a
> > full of straight weight oil, as the ester based synthetic oil will add
> > desirable properties without lowering the overall "thickness" too much.
> > welcome the comments of others on this practice.
> >       And on the subject of penetrants for freeing rusted parts, PB
> > is an excellent over-the-counter product, but if desperation sets in, I
> > recommend two even more effective products. The first is KROIL. It's
> > somewhere in Tennessee and it's whole purpose on the planet is to free
> > heavily rusted industrial equipment. The other is available at you GM
> > dealer, and is made for breaking loose rusted exhaust manifold bolts,
> > works well for any severely rust-seized part. I haven't bought any of
> > in many years, but it actually has a GM part number, and as I recall was
> > very expensive, and worth every penny.
> >
> >
> > Automotive Articles .com - Motor Oil Exposed - Choosing the Correct
> > Oil Viscosity
> >
> > More Than You Ever Wanted to Know ABout Motor Oil
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > 1964 Rover P5 3litre Saloon aut
> > AACA reg.
> > 1966 Rover P5 Coupe manual with
> > overd.
> > 1973 Cougar Convert. AACA reg.
> > 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee LTD. V8
> > ...but OUR Cooking is better than
> >
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