[ROVERNET - UK]

Katherine Cuba katemike at charter.net
Sat Feb 26 19:11:34 GMT 2005 

Do you carry the remote servo?  The one on the P4 goes outboard under the 
front wing, so there is plenty of room and plumbing would be fairly easy. 
How much do they cost or where can I get one?

Thank you,

Michael
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "James Dean" <jaguru at bellsouth.net>
To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 26, 2005 11:55 AM
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK]


>I usually have original cylinders rebuilt and stainless steel sleeved; they
> come with a good guarantee,, and if you ever have a problem years down the
> road, the rebuilder installs new seals and retests them, reasonably.The 
> only
> problem I ever had, was due to a  a cheap doctor's car; He  insisted on
> having his calipers rebuilt one at a time, when they leaked. Each time,
> contamination  was dislodged, got into a previously rebuilt caliper, it
> leaked, I sent it backto the rebuilder, they charged only for new seals, 
> and
> noted that leakage was caused by contamination.I charged the Doctor by the
> hour, but a better solution is to do the complete brake system at one
> time.American Brake fluid may also cause this rubber failure, so I assume
> you are using Castrol?-Wrongly save a dollar, and it will cost you a
> thousand.I have done one  P4, but hav forgotten the layout of the brake
> system. One solution to your problem might be to add a separate servo, 
> like
> on a 2000. LandRover enthusiasts sometimes add one in theclutch system.
> Kits can be expensive , to rebuild original ones;I use a new one made in
> Australia(Sorry to mention Jaguar) for a MKII Jag; When I upgrade XK120's 
> to
> Front disc brakes. I retain the original master cylinder. The servo can go
> anyplace, usually I put it in the Right Front Fender. (Unless we added
> airconditioning; then the servo goes in the left, the condensor and fan go
> in the right . This should translate easily to Rover, and in fact perhaps
> someone from Down under, where the servos are made. offers a kit?. James
> Dean, Ft. Lauderdale.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Katherine Cuba" <katemike at charter.net>
> To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
> Sent: Saturday, February 26, 2005 12:12 PM
> Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK]
>
>
>> James:
>>
>> Thank you for your frequent postings to Rovernet.  I have learned a lot
> just
>> from reading your messages.  I have a couple of questions about my 1958
>> Rover P4 105S that you might be able to help me with.
>>
>> When I got it, the servo/brake booster had been removed by one of the
>> preivious owners.  I've done a lot of work with TR6's and MGB's and had
> been
>> wondering if it was possible to plumb in a servo or master from one of
> those
>> or something similar.  Your note below on the SD1 made me curious to know
> if
>> something can be done for the P4 without the expense and shipping of
>> sourcing an original from the UK.  Since mine is the only one I know of
>> within a 1000 miles of St. Louis, I'm not too worried about officionados
>> crying that it is not historically accurate.
>>
>> Also, have you developed an air conditioning system that could be fitted
> to
>> the P4?  that would be the height of luxury on a hot Missouri afternoon.
>>
>> Thanks in advance,
>>
>> Michael Mason
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "James Dean" <jaguru at bellsouth.net>
>> To: <lacpsyd at earthlink.net>; <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
>> Sent: Saturday, February 05, 2005 12:24 PM
>> Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] A slow death
>>
>>
>> > Lance-Several common sense things to check, before adding extra fans,
> etc.
>> > Do you have a thermostat, and is it correct? American thermostats often
>> > fit
>> > British cars, but may not be exactly correct-little things like a weep
>> > hole,
>> > etc-Someone else may have more knowledge than I on exact detailsAlso, 
>> > in
>> > that era, it was common to use a 190degree for fast heater warmup in
>> > Northern winters, and 165 in hot summers, or Florida where I am.What is
> in
>> > the car? If it has no thermostat, coolant will move too fast, and not 
>> > be
>> > fully cooled.The other item no one ever suspects, until they add fans,
> oil
>> > coolers, etc; is the fan clutch. Spin it when the engine is cold, and
>> > again
>> > when the engine is hot. If there is no resistance either time, replace
> the
>> > fan clutch . I may have some, contact me
>> >        . AlsoRegarding 3500S; I am presently making up a new set of AC
>> > hoses, sourcing a rotary compressor, and the adapter bracket between 
>> > new
>> > compressor and the original york bracket, as well as r-134 seals, . a
> new
>> > drier,etc. If anyone wants to upgrade their AC system,or needs parts
>> > contact
>> > me; rather than re-inventing the wheel yourself. I also just put
> together
>> > a
>> > boot evaporator system., and have a correct in dash evaporator for P5.
>> >           For SD1 owners-A tip:Master cylinders and boosters have been
>> > unavailable, or worth more than the car. On my SD-1, I used a TR7 
>> > master
>> > cylinder. I can supply these rebuilt, which is cheaper than new.The
> brake
>> > lines go in the other side, but you can move them around, to reach., 
>> > and
>> > fittings are the sameFor a booster, I used a Triumph TR6., but the 
>> > studs
>> > to
>> > mount the master cylinder are off by90 degrees. I have a rebuilder who
>> > rebuilds them for me, and rotates the housing 90 degrees, so it all
> bolts
>> > together nicely. Again, contact me if you need one.
>> >             I have been putting some of my Rare Rover parts on my ebay
>> > store, with photos, though most seem to go to Europe, as Americans seem
> to
>> > generally ignore or miss the opportunity.Please browse around the ebay
>> > store, as there are some rare things. The P5 AC evaporator is there 
>> > with
> a
>> > photos, as well as a photo of a rare Factory option P5B unit Go to ebay
>> > home
>> > page, log onto ebay stores, Then"Old English Motor Company"  James 
>> > Dean,
>> > Ft.
>> > Lauderdale.(ebay name for my auctions-"jaguru"Original Message -----
>> > From: "Lance La Certe" <lacpsyd at earthlink.net>
>> > To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
>> > Sent: Saturday, February 05, 2005 10:25 AM
>> > Subject: [ROVERNET - UK] A slow death
>> >
>> >
>> >> Hi All!,
>> >>
>> >> Need help with a perplexing problem.  '70 P6B 3500S.  Recently had
>> >> carburetors de-varnished, synchronized, etc.   The mechanic also
> rerouted
>> >> the fuel line away from the engine block because of concerns with
>> >> vaporizing the fuel.  Cobbled back together my old carburetor 'cozies'
> to
>> >> also help with heat issues-------regardless of all this work, when
> stuck
>> > in
>> >> slow moving traffic and the temperature gauge increases past dead
> center
>> >> (ever so slightly, and it never gets past the green and into the 'red
>> >> zone'), the car begins a slow death relative to a lower and lower 
>> >> idle.
>> > If
>> >> I have the chance to get on the highway and get some airflow going it
>> >> automatically lowers the operating temperature, and then it idles
>> >> perfectly.
>> >>
>> >> In the 15 years I have owned the car, this has never been a problem
> until
>> >> recently.  I know several Rovenetters have installed electric fans to
>> >> help
>> >> the radiator, but I'd like to know if there are any other 'fixes' and
> any
>> >> explanations for what is happening.
>> >>
>> >> Thanks in advance for any help.
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> Lance La Certe
>> >> lacpsyd at earthlink.net
>> >> Why Wait?  Move to EarthLink.
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> _______________________________________________
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>> >
>> >
>> >
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