[ROVERNET - UK]

Paul Smith vmi2148 at bigpond.net.au
Sun Feb 27 06:32:33 GMT 2005 

The storage tank is under the mudguard, the servo is under the carburettors.
105s have drum brakes and a different servo to 100s etc.
It would be possible to use a different one (eg. a 2000 one) but you may 
wind up with lighter pedal feel than the original; hardly a problem since 
Rover seemed to think a heavy feel was a good thing.
I can't remember the plumbing for the original servo but later P4 ones were 
plug compatible and worked ok, not sure if 2000 ones are.

PVS

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Katherine Cuba" <katemike at charter.net>
To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 27, 2005 6:11 AM
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK]


> Do you carry the remote servo?  The one on the P4 goes outboard under the 
> front wing, so there is plenty of room and plumbing would be fairly easy. 
> How much do they cost or where can I get one?
>
> Thank you,
>
> Michael
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "James Dean" <jaguru at bellsouth.net>
> To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
> Sent: Saturday, February 26, 2005 11:55 AM
> Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK]
>
>
>>I usually have original cylinders rebuilt and stainless steel sleeved; 
>>they
>> come with a good guarantee,, and if you ever have a problem years down 
>> the
>> road, the rebuilder installs new seals and retests them, reasonably.The 
>> only
>> problem I ever had, was due to a  a cheap doctor's car; He  insisted on
>> having his calipers rebuilt one at a time, when they leaked. Each time,
>> contamination  was dislodged, got into a previously rebuilt caliper, it
>> leaked, I sent it backto the rebuilder, they charged only for new seals, 
>> and
>> noted that leakage was caused by contamination.I charged the Doctor by 
>> the
>> hour, but a better solution is to do the complete brake system at one
>> time.American Brake fluid may also cause this rubber failure, so I assume
>> you are using Castrol?-Wrongly save a dollar, and it will cost you a
>> thousand.I have done one  P4, but hav forgotten the layout of the brake
>> system. One solution to your problem might be to add a separate servo, 
>> like
>> on a 2000. LandRover enthusiasts sometimes add one in theclutch system.
>> Kits can be expensive , to rebuild original ones;I use a new one made in
>> Australia(Sorry to mention Jaguar) for a MKII Jag; When I upgrade XK120's 
>> to
>> Front disc brakes. I retain the original master cylinder. The servo can 
>> go
>> anyplace, usually I put it in the Right Front Fender. (Unless we added
>> airconditioning; then the servo goes in the left, the condensor and fan 
>> go
>> in the right . This should translate easily to Rover, and in fact perhaps
>> someone from Down under, where the servos are made. offers a kit?. James
>> Dean, Ft. Lauderdale.
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Katherine Cuba" <katemike at charter.net>
>> To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
>> Sent: Saturday, February 26, 2005 12:12 PM
>> Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK]
>>
>>
>>> James:
>>>
>>> Thank you for your frequent postings to Rovernet.  I have learned a lot
>> just
>>> from reading your messages.  I have a couple of questions about my 1958
>>> Rover P4 105S that you might be able to help me with.
>>>
>>> When I got it, the servo/brake booster had been removed by one of the
>>> preivious owners.  I've done a lot of work with TR6's and MGB's and had
>> been
>>> wondering if it was possible to plumb in a servo or master from one of
>> those
>>> or something similar.  Your note below on the SD1 made me curious to 
>>> know
>> if
>>> something can be done for the P4 without the expense and shipping of
>>> sourcing an original from the UK.  Since mine is the only one I know of
>>> within a 1000 miles of St. Louis, I'm not too worried about officionados
>>> crying that it is not historically accurate.
>>>
>>> Also, have you developed an air conditioning system that could be fitted
>> to
>>> the P4?  that would be the height of luxury on a hot Missouri afternoon.
>>>
>>> Thanks in advance,
>>>
>>> Michael Mason
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> From: "James Dean" <jaguru at bellsouth.net>
>>> To: <lacpsyd at earthlink.net>; <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
>>> Sent: Saturday, February 05, 2005 12:24 PM
>>> Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] A slow death
>>>
>>>
>>> > Lance-Several common sense things to check, before adding extra fans,
>> etc.
>>> > Do you have a thermostat, and is it correct? American thermostats 
>>> > often
>>> > fit
>>> > British cars, but may not be exactly correct-little things like a weep
>>> > hole,
>>> > etc-Someone else may have more knowledge than I on exact detailsAlso, 
>>> > in
>>> > that era, it was common to use a 190degree for fast heater warmup in
>>> > Northern winters, and 165 in hot summers, or Florida where I am.What 
>>> > is
>> in
>>> > the car? If it has no thermostat, coolant will move too fast, and not 
>>> > be
>>> > fully cooled.The other item no one ever suspects, until they add fans,
>> oil
>>> > coolers, etc; is the fan clutch. Spin it when the engine is cold, and
>>> > again
>>> > when the engine is hot. If there is no resistance either time, replace
>> the
>>> > fan clutch . I may have some, contact me
>>> >        . AlsoRegarding 3500S; I am presently making up a new set of AC
>>> > hoses, sourcing a rotary compressor, and the adapter bracket between 
>>> > new
>>> > compressor and the original york bracket, as well as r-134 seals, . a
>> new
>>> > drier,etc. If anyone wants to upgrade their AC system,or needs parts
>>> > contact
>>> > me; rather than re-inventing the wheel yourself. I also just put
>> together
>>> > a
>>> > boot evaporator system., and have a correct in dash evaporator for P5.
>>> >           For SD1 owners-A tip:Master cylinders and boosters have been
>>> > unavailable, or worth more than the car. On my SD-1, I used a TR7 
>>> > master
>>> > cylinder. I can supply these rebuilt, which is cheaper than new.The
>> brake
>>> > lines go in the other side, but you can move them around, to reach., 
>>> > and
>>> > fittings are the sameFor a booster, I used a Triumph TR6., but the 
>>> > studs
>>> > to
>>> > mount the master cylinder are off by90 degrees. I have a rebuilder who
>>> > rebuilds them for me, and rotates the housing 90 degrees, so it all
>> bolts
>>> > together nicely. Again, contact me if you need one.
>>> >             I have been putting some of my Rare Rover parts on my ebay
>>> > store, with photos, though most seem to go to Europe, as Americans 
>>> > seem
>> to
>>> > generally ignore or miss the opportunity.Please browse around the ebay
>>> > store, as there are some rare things. The P5 AC evaporator is there 
>>> > with
>> a
>>> > photos, as well as a photo of a rare Factory option P5B unit Go to 
>>> > ebay
>>> > home
>>> > page, log onto ebay stores, Then"Old English Motor Company"  James 
>>> > Dean,
>>> > Ft.
>>> > Lauderdale.(ebay name for my auctions-"jaguru"Original Message -----
>>> > From: "Lance La Certe" <lacpsyd at earthlink.net>
>>> > To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
>>> > Sent: Saturday, February 05, 2005 10:25 AM
>>> > Subject: [ROVERNET - UK] A slow death
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >> Hi All!,
>>> >>
>>> >> Need help with a perplexing problem.  '70 P6B 3500S.  Recently had
>>> >> carburetors de-varnished, synchronized, etc.   The mechanic also
>> rerouted
>>> >> the fuel line away from the engine block because of concerns with
>>> >> vaporizing the fuel.  Cobbled back together my old carburetor 
>>> >> 'cozies'
>> to
>>> >> also help with heat issues-------regardless of all this work, when
>> stuck
>>> > in
>>> >> slow moving traffic and the temperature gauge increases past dead
>> center
>>> >> (ever so slightly, and it never gets past the green and into the 'red
>>> >> zone'), the car begins a slow death relative to a lower and lower 
>>> >> idle.
>>> > If
>>> >> I have the chance to get on the highway and get some airflow going it
>>> >> automatically lowers the operating temperature, and then it idles
>>> >> perfectly.
>>> >>
>>> >> In the 15 years I have owned the car, this has never been a problem
>> until
>>> >> recently.  I know several Rovenetters have installed electric fans to
>>> >> help
>>> >> the radiator, but I'd like to know if there are any other 'fixes' and
>> any
>>> >> explanations for what is happening.
>>> >>
>>> >> Thanks in advance for any help.
>>> >>
>>> >>
>>> >> Lance La Certe
>>> >> lacpsyd at earthlink.net
>>> >> Why Wait?  Move to EarthLink.
>>> >>
>>> >>
>>> >>
>>> >>
>>> >> _______________________________________________
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>>> >>
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
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>>>
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>>
>>
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