[ROVERNET - UK] Re: rovernet Digest, Vol 32, Issue 26

Kent Kinard kkinard at swbell.net
Tue Jul 19 01:08:12 BST 2005

Hi Graham,
Nice to know that someone has actually done this.  My logic stems from 
the fact that LT77 conversions in P6B's seem to require no driveshaft 
modifications and LT77's and BW65's in SD1's use the same drive shaft. 
We don't have any late P6B's in North America, so we don't have the easy 
possibility of changing tailhousings. If you have some extra rear 
extensions, please ship us a few along with the cable shifters. I'm sure 
there are differences in the transmission mount area as welland the late 
P6B housing and drive flage would make everything much easier.

Was the SD1 BW65 too long or too short?  I have several 65's on the 
bench at present, but all my 35's are in cars that are not readily 
accessible, so I can't just go out and measure.

This whole subject is more easily delt with in SD1's and P5B's because 
there is so little room in the P6B tunnel and heat buildup is already a 
problem. I do think that the 65 is worth doing in a P6B regardless of 
what details are involved simply because it's far easier than any 
alternative.  For those outside North America, the GM180 might be 
another possibility.  If I ever get to play with the 4L30E, it may be a 
possibility for P6B's and the Jatco from a 300ZX is also pretty slender. 
  The Jatco has the advantage of vacuum modulation (like the GM180) and 
no kickdown cable, whereas the 4L30E is computer controlled with all 
that such installations entail. Where is Franc when we need him?

I'm still looking for a bellhousing from a Sherpa V8, or at least a good 
picture of one, to determine if the 4HP22 sits "straight" or is "clocked 
over" like the RR installations.  There are lots of 4HP22's about, but 
the RR bellhousing means lots of firewall and tunnel bumping in SD1's 
and P5B's.

As we have stated before in this group, for NA Roverites, the 200-4R or 
700-R4 are far easier to install in P5B's or SD1's, are cheap to 
rebuild, and give you an overdrive 4th.

You guys must be gettin tired of me going through this again, but every 
time it comes up, someone adds a little to a subject near and dear to my 
heart.  Thanks for sharing your experience, Graham.

Kent K.

Graham Carter wrote:
> I have fitted a 65 out of an sd1 and found the o/all length different and
> had to change the rear extension housing and drive flange it is easier to
> fit a late p6b trans you also will need to use the cable shifter .these wear
> where they rub so inspect the cable it is worth the trouble the 65 is a
> nicer trans to drive the shift points are set higher and you don't drop
> straight into top gear at roundabouts etc and get left at no revs as you
> take off
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kent Kinard" <kkinard at swbell.net>
> To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
> Sent: Monday, July 18, 2005 10:49 PM
> Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] Re: rovernet Digest, Vol 32, Issue 26
>>Hi Chris, Peter and Slats,
>>I wouldn't call it "modern," but you can easily install a BW 65 in place
>>of a BW35 and there seem to be more people around who can rebuild one of
>>those.  You can even find good used "65's" from scrapped SD1's.  Any
>>"65" from an SD1 will do and all you need is the shifter from a Series 2
>>P6B that used a "65" OEM.  Folks in the UK, NZ or Oz should have lots of
>>these.  The rear flange on the SD1 "65" will require the drilling of two
>>more holes to mate up to the P6B driveshaft.  You will need the whole
>>BW65 assembly (although the flexplate may be the same).  Even the
>>kickdown cable is a straight bolt-on.  Don't know about cooler lines,
>>though.  I plan to do this when the "35" in my P6B gives out, although
>>it seems to be fine at present.
>>Kent K.
>>Slatskars wrote:
>>>Question - Is there a more modern replacement that would be a bolt on??
>>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Christopher Smith"
>>><csmith at ssl.berkeley.edu>
>>>To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
>>>Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2005 6:37 PM
>>>Subject: [ROVERNET - UK] Re: rovernet Digest, Vol 32, Issue 26
>>>>Thanks for the info Peter. $2000 is starting to make $1200 look better
>>>>but I am starting to think I should just replace the seals and leave
>>>>well enough alone unless I find someone who knows what they are doing.
>>>>>Hi Chris:
>>>>>I'm at $2,000 for a auto gear box rebuild in the Seattle area.  And
>>>>>they can't seem to get it right!  Strongly suggest that you find a
>>>>>person who's had experience with the BW-T35, in the past.  I told the
>>>>>transmission shop what an experienced man told me in Florida.  He
> said,
>>>>>"That transmission will fool you!"  It's fooled them here!
>>>>>Peter Miller
>>>>>Port Orchard, Wa.
>>>>Christopher L. Smith
>>>>Thermal Engineer
>>>>Space Sciences Lab - U.C. Berkeley
>>>>Annex, Room #1
>>>>Phone: 510-642-2461
>>>>Cell: 510-301-7541
>>>>Fax: 510-643-9651
>>>>Email: csmith at ssl.berkeley.edu
>>>>SSL Spam Check: AST:7731^29u18e3
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