[ROVERNET - UK] Cost of rebuilding an engine

[geffandjulie]

another disassembly trick is to use Zip lock bags for parts, and label each 
bag. Worked pretty well for me.  The videotape would have been priceless. 
Wish I had thought of that.  At one time my P6B had NOTHING in the engine 
bay, not even brake pipes.  Won't do that again either!
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ron Morey" <morey814 at hotmail.com>
To: <lacpsyd at earthlink.net>; <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 02, 2005 6:36 PM
Subject: RE: [ROVERNET - UK] Cost of rebuilding an engine


> Lance, I just finished rebuilding my 1980 V8. I used a good local machine 
> shop. Their cost was 1200Cdn for an overbore, crank turning, valve job 
> including guides and head and block resurfacing. I bought a Rimmers kit 
> with 9.5:1 (I think) pistons. It was during one of the specials where the 
> cost was about 900Cdn. Add to that shipping and good ol taxes. There were 
> some problems with the kit, which Rimmer addressed. The guides were 
> standard and the valves were 0.005 under. I used the new valves with 
> undersized guides. I also used a composite head gasket to allow for some 
> compression reduction. I also replaced the rod, main and head bolts. With 
> all parts and buying a new cam the total cost was under 3000. I did the 
> assembly. I did not expect it to go to $3000-but then I have always gone 
> overbudget in repairs.
>
> The important thing is to find a good machine shop. There are US suppliers 
> for the engine parts as well. The machine shop I used has a good 
> reputation and they also do engine prep and assembly for a local 
> gyrocopter manufacturer. (Subaru engines) Good customer interaction, 
> detailed work and record keeping and regular communication regarding 
> progress. If you are rebuilding it yourself I would suggest using a drill 
> to drive the oil pump without the distributor to ensure that oil makes it 
> up to the valve gear-it is easy to watch this with the valve covers off. 
> It took about 5 minutes of steady drive to get the oil up  to the top. 
> Even then, one lifter was noisy upon startup and took a couple of minutes 
> to fill. This was after allowing the engine to sit for a few months while 
> I completed the body work. I have very few km's on it yet but it is quiet 
> and solid with good oil pressure.
> All the best, Ron.
>
>>From: "Lance La Certe" <lacpsyd at earthlink.net>
>>Reply-To: lacpsyd at earthlink.net, rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
>>To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
>>Subject: [ROVERNET - UK] Cost of rebuilding an engine
>>Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2005 10:18:23 -0600
>>
>>Hi All,
>>
>>Would appreciate some guestimates and responses from those who may have 
>>had
>>an engine rebuilt.  The 'ol V8  (1970 'Federal' 3500S) has 185,000 miles
>>and is really getting tired (oil pressure light is on most of the time at
>>idle suggesting that the bearings are shot).  The transmission has been
>>rebuilt, so it's just the engine I'm considering.  I'd like to know how
>>much a rebuild would be: 1) If they pull, rebuild, and reinstall the 
>>engine
>>and 2) how much cheaper it might be to pull it myself, have it rebuilt, 
>>and
>>reinstall myself  (of course this begs the next question....although I've
>>done a lot of my own work, e.g. rebuilt the carbs, rebuilt the brake 
>>master
>>cylinder and servo, pulled and reinstalled the water pump and the 
>>radiator,
>>I've never pulled an engine.  I know I'd have to rent a cherry picker, and
>>I'm imaging that pulling it may not be all that hard, the real question is
>>how simple is it to reinstall, bolt it up to the transmissions and then
>>have it run??
>>
>>Any input/suggestions/warnings about all of the above would be 
>>appreciated.
>>
>>
>>Lance La Certe,   Denver, CO
>>lacpsyd at earthlink.net
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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>
>
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