[ROVERNET - UK] 2000 TC rattle

[iudkuy wcygiohs]

JIm

I had what I was convinced was a metallic intermittent
rattle from the front of my 105 engine. It went away
when engine revs increased above idle so I thought
"timing chain tensioner" but it turned out to be the
fan belt! Worth a look.

Peter B

--- fjcumberland at sc.rr.com wrote:

> Hi Eric,
> 
> Thanks!  |I think my engine is from a S1 car, but
> rebuilt with a higher
> compression ratio (need to look that up . . . .).  
> I'll see whether the
> tensioner is adjustable.  Thanks also for the tip
> about the plug lips
> breaking - it is good that I won't be surprised if
> it happens.  I think
> I have a spare NOS plug it breaks.  I hope I don't
> have to pull the head
> - at the rate my car projects get done it will be
> around the time of our
> next presidential election . . .  
> Cheers,
> 
> Jim
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Eric Russell <p6rovers at yahoo.com>
> Date: Tuesday, October 11, 2005 11:54 am
> Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] 2000 TC rattle
> 
> > Jim,
> > The noise you describe sounds like the timing
> chain. I
> > don't know what version of upper timing chain
> > tensioner you have but the original version was
> > adjustable with an Allen key. The tensioner was
> > installed with the pad close to the body.  When
> the
> > tensioner was correctly in position, one inserted
> the
> > Allen key and turned it to release the pad to push
> > toward the chain when needed.  One cause of rattle
> was
> > that the installer forgot to turn the Allen key
> > adjustment so the pad was retained against the
> body of
> > the tensioner.  If that is your case, you could
> expect
> > an improvement by turning the Allen key
> adjustment.
> > 
> > The later tensioners are often those used on other
> > vehicles (MGB I think) and had no adjustment.  A
> > person tied the pad with some thread and cut the
> > thread after everything was in place.
> > 
> > Access to the upper tensioner is through the large
> > aluminum plug opposite the tensioner.  However,
> with
> > time and heat, the rubber sealing ring becomes
> hard. 
> > When a person tries to pry out the aluminum plug,
> the
> > lips of the plug usually get snapped off.  On
> > occasion, I have used a propane torch to destroy
> the
> > rubber ring providing you can get a new
> replacement to
> > refit the plug, later.
> > 
> > The worst case scenario is the need to remove the
> head
> > to replace the upper chain with a new one.  Ruth
> at
> > All British Cars can help you source a new chain. 
> I
> > don't know if she has OEM tensioners or not.
> > 
> > Eric
> > --- fjcumberland at sc.rr.com wrote:
> > 
> > > Hi all,
> > > 
> > > Sort of a "newbie" question here.  My '71 2000
> TC,
> > > which has about 6K
> > > miles on the engine (my best guess) has
> developed a
> > > metallic rattling
> > > noise that appears to be in the vicinity of the
> > > timing chain (as much as
> > > one can tell from where engine noises come . . .
> .).
> > >  The rattle is most
> > > noticable at idle, but as far as I can tell it
> goes
> > > away at speed or
> > > under load.  The car needs a tune-up - it has a
> > > rough idle and seems to
> > > have a miss when I drive with foot off the
> > > accelerator.  It's also
> > > running rich.  Is it worth my checking at least
> the
> > > upper tensioner?  Is
> > > it possible to tighten the tensioner, or must I
> > > replace it?
> > > 
> > > 
> > > Also - am hoping one day soon to replace the
> deDion
> > > boot using Alan's
> > > method - will report back on results.  It sounds
> a
> > > lot easier than
> > > yanking the entire rear end . . .
> > > 
> > > Thanks in advance for any help!
> > > 
> > > Cheers,
> > > 
> > > Jim
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
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