[ROVERNET - UK] 2000 TC rattle

Paul Smith Paul.Smith at auroraenergy.com.au
Tue Oct 11 22:39:01 BST 2005

You access the allen bolt via the inspection plate next to the distributor -
the front Al plug is for seeing the pad & chain.  If you prise gently,
working it out evenly, you shouldn't break the lips.
The other possibility is low oil pressure, since the tensioner is oil
driven, the allen bolt is only for retracting it.  You can't "tighten" it as
such.  Low oil pressure is usually due to worn bottom end, the oil pump is
pretty robust on 2000s.

It sounds like you have worn butterfly shafts leading to lean idle (which is
rough) but rich elsewhere.
If you can rebuild carbs with new shaft bushes that is the best solution,
and put a grease nipple in!  I really wish SU had in the first place.
Otherwise reprofile the needles.


-----Original Message-----
From: fjcumberland at sc.rr.com [mailto:fjcumberland at sc.rr.com]
Sent: Wednesday, 12 October 2005 2:22 am
To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
Subject: [ROVERNET - UK] 2000 TC rattle

Hi all,

Sort of a "newbie" question here.  My '71 2000 TC, which has about 6K
miles on the engine (my best guess) has developed a metallic rattling
noise that appears to be in the vicinity of the timing chain (as much as
one can tell from where engine noises come . . . .).  The rattle is most
noticable at idle, but as far as I can tell it goes away at speed or
under load.  The car needs a tune-up - it has a rough idle and seems to
have a miss when I drive with foot off the accelerator.  It's also
running rich.  Is it worth my checking at least the upper tensioner?  Is
it possible to tighten the tensioner, or must I replace it?

Also - am hoping one day soon to replace the deDion boot using Alan's
method - will report back on results.  It sounds a lot easier than
yanking the entire rear end . . .

Thanks in advance for any help!



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