[ROVERNET - UK] Stud welders

Dirk Burrowes dirk at vy-tek.com
Sun Aug 27 16:35:58 BST 2006


Hi Steven,

Unfortunately, stud welders (spot welders) used for automotive work will not
work on aluminum. Aluminum has such good heat conductivity properties that
it requires a very large spot welder and a 3 phase one at that to generate
enough heat to weld. You could however TIG weld a stud or a pull rod to the
bonnet to pull the dent. This will be tricky too as you will also put allot
of heat into the bonnet and run the risk of stress relieving the area also
not good.

Bondo is not all bad and some ultra light versions have been made just for
aluminum and stick quite well and expand and contract with the bonnet as it
warms or cools you may want to consider this.

I might have a extra bonnet if all else fails. Where are you?

Dirk

-----Original Message-----
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[ROVERNET-UK]

Today's Topics:

   1. Re:  Gearbox changes (Gordon Harrower)
   2. Re:  Bonnet repair (Slatskars)
   3. Re:  OEM stuff (Paul Smith)
   4. Re:  Bonnet repair (Paul Smith)
   5. Re:  OEM stuff (Paul Smith)
   6. Re:  Bonnet repair (birdie)
   7. Re:  Bonnet repair (Paul Smith)
   8. Re:  Bonnet repair (David Read)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2006 23:13:40 -0400
From: Gordon Harrower <griffo at comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] Gearbox changes
To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
Message-ID: <44F10DE4.9010004 at comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Vern Klukas wrote:

>> My gearbox saga continues, and I'd like to consult the more 
>> knowledgeable.  I'm prepared to rebuild the gearbox on my 1968 TC 
>> (gearbox suffix F), and have bought the necessary parts from Pierre. 
>> Meanwhile, someone has offered me a functional gearbox from a 1971 
>> TC.  Are there major differences or improvements in the later 'box? 
>> Will it fit in my '68?  Gordon.
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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>> rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
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>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
> Internally, your "F" gearbox is a bushing type, while the 71 will be a 
> needle roller type. That means that the internal mainshaft parts are 
> not interchangeable. The needle roller gearboxes (suffix H and above) 
> are better but (technically) slightly nosier due to the many more 
> rotating bits. The early bushing type gearbox had problems with the 
> bush for 2nd and 3rd gear breaking, but unless you came across a low 
> mileage original all of those have long since broken and been fixed.
>
> Yours
> Vern
>
Thanks, Vern.  I'll let you know how it goes.  Gordon.



------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2006 23:47:02 -0700
From: "Slatskars" <slatskars at comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] Bonnet repair
To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Message-ID: <008701c6c9a4$9ac59f60$6401a8c0 at FAMILYROOM>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
	reply-type=response

Steven,

Very good question. I don't really have the answer to that. Will check with 
a friend that used a stud welder extensively on an MGA regarding the 
aluminum. May take a week or so to get the answer. I was not thinking 
aluminum when I suggested the stud welder.

Slats
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Steven Dibdin" <sdibdin at hotmail.com>
To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Sent: Saturday, August 26, 2006 7:11 PM
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] Bonnet repair


> Would a stud welder work on a aluminium bonnet though?
>
> If there is enough room to get a old leaf from a leaf spring (as in live 
> axle) behind the dent you may be able to use that and a dolly to get the 
> dent back to somewhere reasonable. Then skim with bondo. Bear in mind you 
> will have less trouble with sinks in the paint finish if you bondo then 
> filler-prime. There's agood basic book on panel beating from practical 
> classics.
>
> http://www.practicalclassics.co.uk/shop/profiles/by-id/13688/
>
> Hope that helps somewhat. Also remember that ally doesn't like to be bent 
> too much, it work hardens quite quickly.
>
> Cheers,
>
> StevenD
>
>
>>From: "Slatskars" <slatskars at comcast.net>
>>Reply-To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
>>To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
>>Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] Bonnet repair
>>Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2006 17:36:21 -0700
>>
>>There is another way to pull the dent instead of drilling holes. The tool 
>>to use is a stud welder. This welds small nail looking things to the area 
>>to be pulled. A special slide hammer is then used to pull the dent. After 
>>this is done a small grinder knocks off the stud. No hole to fill. Stud 
>>welders are available from Harbor Freight for around $120 normally. You 
>>can find them on e-bay from harbor freight also. If you select a body 
>>shop, I would ask if they have such a tool. These are great for 
>>inaccessible areas.
>>Minimal heat is applied, so no warping.
>>
>>Slats
>>----- Original Message ----- From: "birdie" <birdies at ix.netcom.com>
>>To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
>>Sent: Saturday, August 26, 2006 2:48 PM
>>Subject: [ROVERNET - UK] Bonnet repair
>>
>>
>>>Anyone have any tips on bonnet repair.
>>>
>>>My original was rather mucked up at a body repair shop as they used ALOT 
>>>of bondo on the nose....
>>>
>>>So, I found a used one...has a knuckle sized ding in the nose, but is 
>>>also popped up abit on one side of the nose 'round where the "line" comes

>>>down the bonnet to the nose....in otherwords, from dead center - over 
>>>about 6". Instead of being inset below that line, it's popped up and it 
>>>looks like the whole front passenger side is tweaked just a little.....
>>>
>>>I could take pictures.
>>>
>>>But, in terms of....technique....I know they can't hammer around the nose

>>>area as it is rolled.  Can they put nails in and pull? I don't think it 
>>>can be heated...
>>>
>>>Any ace body shop people in Southern California I could take it too?
>>>
>>>It's not bad...but...I think it is going to be pretty tricky.
>>>
>>>Cheers
>>>
>>>Kathleen
>>>
>>>_______________________________________________
>>>rovernet mailing list
>>>rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
>>>To unsubscribe, go to this web page, look near the bottom and follow 
>>>instructions:
>>>http://mailman.nipltd.com/mailman/listinfo/rovernet
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>>>http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>>
>>
>>_______________________________________________
>>rovernet mailing list
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>>http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2006 17:00:17 +1000
From: "Paul Smith" <vmitps at netspace.net.au>
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] OEM stuff
To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Message-ID: <008301c6c9a9$abbe76c0$0201010a at Skaterscomp2>
Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="iso-8859-1"

Could you do some fuel cons checks with this setup?

PVS

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Read" <defender110 at ozemail.com.au>
To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Sent: Saturday, August 26, 2006 10:05 AM
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] OEM stuff


> Hi Glen
> I am trying to go for historic registration which requires strict
> conformity to OEM spec.
>
> Historic Registration allows me to run the car for a fraction of the
> standard cost for a period not exceeding 90 days in any one year.
> Log books of journeys must be issued and maintained.
>
> It allows older vehicles to be driven to shows and in club events.
>
> The pics were taken shortly after I acquired it.
> Thr PO had done some work on it ... <gloom>.
> I have a set of P6 rocker covers ready to fit.
>
> And yes, it goes like stink, even with the OEM Lucas dizzy.
>
> Cheers
> Dave
>
> Glen Wilson wrote:
> > David,
> >
> > Always good to see another Rover get some love!
> >
> > Here are some pictures of a 1970 engine that Andre Shay restored.
> > http://beerinc.com/rstca/andre.html
> >
> > There are a couple here of a car I worked on. It already had a Chrysler
> > alternator.
> > http://beerinc.com/rstca/wilson3500.html       (We need to get some more
> > cars on our "Members" page.)
> >
> > You must be going for strict originality if you are replacing a Bosch
> > alternator with an OEM Lucas one! Your engine looks like an SD1 or later
> > engine judging from the valve covers. We only had the P6B between '69
> > and '71 in the USA, so the later Aussie cars may have been different.
> > The Holley/Edelbrock mods must give it some scoot!
> >
> > Glen
> <snip>
>
> _______________________________________________
> rovernet mailing list
> rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
> To unsubscribe, go to this web page, look near the bottom and follow
instructions:
> http://mailman.nipltd.com/mailman/listinfo/rovernet
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>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.11.6/428 - Release Date: 25/08/2006
>
>




------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2006 17:08:17 +1000
From: "Paul Smith" <vmitps at netspace.net.au>
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] Bonnet repair
To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Message-ID: <008501c6c9a9$adba46c0$0201010a at Skaterscomp2>
Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="iso-8859-1"

You can shrink aluminium.
However most panelbeaters don't know how...
I can put the technique up if desired.

PVS

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "birdie" <birdies at ix.netcom.com>
To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 7:48 AM
Subject: [ROVERNET - UK] Bonnet repair


> Anyone have any tips on bonnet repair.
>
> My original was rather mucked up at a body repair shop as they used ALOT
> of bondo on the nose....
>
> So, I found a used one...has a knuckle sized ding in the nose, but is
> also popped up abit on one side of the nose 'round where the "line"
> comes down the bonnet to the nose....in otherwords, from dead center -
> over about 6". Instead of being inset below that line, it's popped up
> and it looks like the whole front passenger side is tweaked just a
> little.....
>
> I could take pictures.
>
> But, in terms of....technique....I know they can't hammer around the
> nose area as it is rolled.  Can they put nails in and pull? I don't
> think it can be heated...
>
> Any ace body shop people in Southern California I could take it too?
>
> It's not bad...but...I think it is going to be pretty tricky.
>
> Cheers
>
> Kathleen
>
> _______________________________________________
> rovernet mailing list
> rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
> To unsubscribe, go to this web page, look near the bottom and follow
instructions:
> http://mailman.nipltd.com/mailman/listinfo/rovernet
> Back-up list and photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.11.6/428 - Release Date: 25/08/2006
>
>




------------------------------

Message: 5
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2006 16:54:10 +1000
From: "Paul Smith" <vmitps at netspace.net.au>
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] OEM stuff
To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Message-ID: <008201c6c9a9$aad01f20$0201010a at Skaterscomp2>
Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="iso-8859-1"

I am pretty sure I have an alternator in my bits, and the hubcaps had
several patterns, show me what you want.

PVS

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Read" <defender110 at ozemail.com.au>
To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Cc: <sd1online at yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, August 26, 2006 7:09 AM
Subject: [ROVERNET - UK] OEM stuff


> Hi all Oz viewers ...
> Sorry about the cross post, but has anyone got any OEM bits to
> help a historic restore on a 3.5 P6B?
>
>
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~defender110@ozemail.com.au/mypage/images/p6en
gine3.JPG
>
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~defender110@ozemail.com.au/mypage/images/p6b3
-4.jpg
>
> I have already replaced the HEI dizzy shown in the pix above - busted
> it's bearings.
>
> I am after OEM alternator, wheels/hubcaps and a decent interior.
>
> Thanks
> Dave
> South Oz
>
> _______________________________________________
> rovernet mailing list
> rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
> To unsubscribe, go to this web page, look near the bottom and follow
instructions:
> http://mailman.nipltd.com/mailman/listinfo/rovernet
> Back-up list and photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.11.6/428 - Release Date: 25/08/2006
>
>




------------------------------

Message: 6
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2006 00:40:43 -0700
From: birdie <birdies at ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] Bonnet repair
To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
Message-ID: <44F14C7B.10904 at ix.netcom.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed

That would be fantastic!

Paul Smith wrote:

>You can shrink aluminium.
>However most panelbeaters don't know how...
>I can put the technique up if desired.
>
>  
>
>
>  
>




------------------------------

Message: 7
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2006 17:58:22 +1000
From: "Paul Smith" <vmitps at netspace.net.au>
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] Bonnet repair
To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Message-ID: <009801c6c9ae$a13ade00$0201010a at Skaterscomp2>
Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="iso-8859-1"

1. Set oxy torch to very carburising.
2.  Coat Al surface with soot.
3.  Set flame to neutral, and heat surface until soot just goes.
4.  Now belt it (gently!) with a shrinking hammer and it will shrink.

PVS

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "birdie" <birdies at ix.netcom.com>
To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 5:40 PM
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] Bonnet repair


> That would be fantastic!
>
> Paul Smith wrote:
>
> >You can shrink aluminium.
> >However most panelbeaters don't know how...
> >I can put the technique up if desired.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> rovernet mailing list
> rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
> To unsubscribe, go to this web page, look near the bottom and follow
instructions:
> http://mailman.nipltd.com/mailman/listinfo/rovernet
> Back-up list and photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.11.6/428 - Release Date: 25/08/2006
>
>




------------------------------

Message: 8
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2006 17:28:23 +0930
From: David Read <defender110 at ozemail.com.au>
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] Bonnet repair
To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
Message-ID: <44F1509F.2000105 at ozemail.com.au>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

If you are really lucky, you may find a retired airframe fitter that may 
have worked with aircraft aluminium panels.

Cheers
Dave
South Oz

Paul Smith wrote:
> You can shrink aluminium.
> However most panelbeaters don't know how...
> I can put the technique up if desired.
> 
> PVS
<snip>



------------------------------

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