[ROVERNET - UK] Pulling a TC gearbox
vern at inkspotco.com
Tue Dec 5 16:01:01 GMT 2006
>In my experience with a 67 2000TC, the space for rear
>movement of the trans/bellhousing to remove same by
>dropping without moving engine lacks about 3 cm. I
>plan to see if I can indent the firewall in the
>appropriate location so the dropping can be done if I
>ever need to do it again. Otherwise, at a minimum, the
>engine etc must be freed up to move forward and tilt,
>a lot of disconnecting etc. I think the Brits missed
>the measurement when they designed. .....raffi
No need to move the engine forward, but you do
have to disconnect quite a bit of stuff. And to
be fair, officially you have to pull the engine
and gearbox together to do any work. There are no
procedures to remove just the gearbox while
leaving the engine in place.
Here is what you have to do to pull the gearbox:
So you have to change the clutch in your LHD 2000
TC, and you don't want to remove the engine, the
way you are meant to? Read on for a step by step
plan. Aside from the normal collection of hand
tools, you will need a floor jack and a stout bit
of 2x4 about 18 long as well as a three foot
3/8" drive extension.
Start by draining at least half of the coolant
and disconnecting and removing the battery. At
the front of the engine, unscrew the bolt holding
the lower end of the engine steady rod. Remove
the fastenings holding the radiator in place, and
remove the oil cooler pipe clamps from below the
battery. Place a blanket over the fan to protect
the radiator. Remove the air filter housing.
At the top of the engine, disconnect the brake
booster vacuum line at the booster. Remove
distributor cap. Remove oil dip stick. Remove
window washer bottle. Slack the hose clamp at the
front of the heater pipe and remove the two
screws holding the pipe to the manifold. Remove
the cam cover and the rear cam cover stud. Remove
the insulation pad from the front of the heater
box. Unclip the throttle rod and detach the
throttle bracket from the steering box. Remove
the lower heater hose from the manifold adapter.
Remove the nuts holding the intake manifold in
place, pull manifold from studs and rest in place.
Jack the car at the front, as high as possible,
and set on stands. Under the engine, remove the
clutch master cylinder from the bellhousing and
tuck behind RH front suspension. Disconnect
exhaust pipe and remove. Slacken both engine
Inside car, remove access plug and plate, remove
clamp securing speedo cable and slacken pinch
bolt securing the forward gear selector finger.
Disconnect wires at reversing lamp switch on
gearbox. Remove the gear shift knob, lock nut and
reverse lockout. Remove console finisher, remove
gearshift clamp plate bolts and remove gearshift
Under the car again, disconnect propeller shaft
at the gearbox and detach gearbox steady brace
from gearshift lever mount plate. Slide gearshift
rod back and out of its bushing at the rear of
the gearbox. Remove bar from gearbox snub rubber.
Remove the fasteners from one side of the gearbox
spring mount, slacken other side and move mount
out of way. Allow gearbox to hang after ensuring
that carbs and radiator do not foul on engine.
Using the long extension, remove the bolts
holding the bellhousing to the engine, leaving
one loosely in place. Ease the starter as clear
of bellhousing as possible.
Using the floor jack and the 2x4, jack the front
of the engine up, causing the engine and gearbox
to tilt while ensuring radiator and carbs do not
foul anything. Also check the fuel line from
reserve tap to pump for fouling. Continue until
the rear cam bearing cap touches the heater box.
Quickly once more under the car, remove the final
bellhousing bolt, rotate the gearbox until the
starter bulge will clear the tunnel and withdraw
the gearbox from the clutch assembly. Lower the
floor jack to take strain off the engine mounts
while you replace the clutch assembly in the
Simply reverse the steps to reassemble.
Vern Klukas I'm a little . . .
Inkspot Type & Design
vern at inkspotco.com
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