[ROVERNET - UK] Help!!!! Rover V8 Motor Question

Kent Kinard kkinard at wcc.net
Mon Dec 18 03:53:08 GMT 2006

On Sun, 17 Dec 2006 16:52:36 -0800 (PST)
  David Sheuring <rovertcv8 at yahoo.com> wrote:
> Hi all,
> Hope you and your families are having a wonderful
> Christmas. 
> I am having to take my V8 motor apart because I have a
> intake or exhaust valve that is burnt and I need to
> ask some question:
> 1. Are the valves on the 70 V8 the same as the 61-63
> Buick heads?

Valves are the same, but springs and retainers are 
different.  Using stock Buick or Rover valves (pre-76) may 
be marginal with unleaded fuel.  Consider replacing the 
heads and valves with a set from a US Range Rover(87-'95). 
 Slightly better breathing and less valve recession on no 
lead fuels.
> 2. Are the head gaskets you get from Fel-Pro, as long
> as they are the metals ones, will be correct and how
> bout the intake pan gasket?

Using composition (sandwich type) gaskets is a good idea 
on high compression engines as it will bring down the CR 
slightly.  Use a Range Rover intake gasket (coated type) 
and Range Rover neoprene rocker cover gaskets.  Be sure to 
leave out the bottom row of head bolts and torque the 
heads according to post '95 specs (ten bolts per side 
> 4. If I have to get new valves, where in America or
> Canada can I get intake and exhaust valves?

The Buick/Rover valves (through '75) come up on Ebay from 
time to time, but may still be available locally as Buick 
215 '61-'63 parts.  Egge Machine may list them as well. 
 Land Rover dealers offer competitive prices on the later 
parts.  Ruth can supply all this stuff as Lance points 
out.  Rovers North and other Land Rover specialists stock 
much for the later heads and I've been very satisfied with 
Rovers Down South in New Orleans.

Lance, did you have to pay duty on the stuff Ruth sent 

> Thanks in advance for your help and look forward to
> hearing from you all

Standard advise:  Check the cam lobes and lifters for 
wear. Replace if not perfect.   Replace the timing chain 
with a true roller set (Cloyes, Edelbrock, etc.) or else 
you will have to do the same work at some point in the 
near future, and if you've stripped the front of an NAS 
P6B once, you will not look forward to doing it again.

Kent K.

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