[ROVERNET - UK] Help!!!! Rover V8 Motor Question
kkinard at wcc.net
Mon Dec 18 15:44:42 GMT 2006
Thank you, Paul. You are quite correct, and this is not
as straightforward as it might be since no single manual
covers the procedure in one place.
1)Remove head bolts by slackening in stages in the
following order (this is to avoid warping the heads) and
note the length of each bolt.
8 12 14 10 6
5 9 13 11 7
3 4 2 1
If you must reuse the same bolts, discard the bottom
row. Clean bolts and bolt holes immediately with solvent
as some applications (NAS SD1's at least) have sealant
that will harden when exposed to air. Do not reuse bolts
if you can avoid it. NEVER use the late model stretch
2) Purchase head stud kit for pre-'95 Rover V8(ARP or
If heads will be machined (any kind of valve work), have
the machine shop spot face the tops of the cylinder head
bolt holes so that the surface where the machine washer
will sit will be parallel to the deck surface.
3)Using only the top 10 bolt holes, install lightly oiled
studs at 10 lb. ft. being mindful of the appropriate
length of each stud and remembering not to install the
4) Position gasket, head and machine washers. Install
lightly oiled nuts hand tight, then torque in stages to 66
lb.ft. (I use increments of 15 lb.ft.-15,30,45,66 ) in the
following sequence. Note that the sequence for 10 and 14
bolt heads is the same since the bottom row is removed
first and installed last in 14 bolt applications.
7 3 1 5 9
10 6 2 4 8
This information is based on Land Rover publications LRL
0164 and LRL 0004 plus a few of my own prejudices.
On Mon, 18 Dec 2006 15:14:51 +1100
"Paul Smith" <Paul.Smith at auroraenergy.com.au> wrote:
> and Range Rover neoprene rocker cover gaskets. Be sure
> leave out the bottom row of head bolts and torque the
> heads according to post '95 specs (ten bolts per side
> This is as usefully cryptic as the software from
>Microsoft - what is the torque/pattern...
> rather than leaving us awake at night wondering how we
>can find out...
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