[ROVERNET - UK] 3500s head compatibility

[James Dean]

Kent,I respect your knowledge, as always, and have a head question. I have a 
set of heads for sale on my eBay store, item# 4537403229, that I thought 
were 215 Buick. Someone just informed me they were 219 Olds; I believe F-85, 
so I changed the description. He told me they will bolt ontoa 215 Buick, a 
Rover 3.5, 4.2, 3.9, 4.0, or 4.6; but it will result in a loss of 
performance. Could you enlighten me further? I like to keep my ebay 
descriptions accurate.
        Also, you were right with your comment my P5B parts car probably was 
the last one left with original factory air. I sold the system , and on 
removal, found the evaporator was made by Smith's. I did photograph it, in 
case anyone needs a reference; though I only had the body, no engine  . 
James Dean
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kent Kinard" <kkinard at swbell.net>
To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Sent: Friday, February 17, 2006 9:34 PM
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] 3500s head compatibility


> Hi Peter (and anyone else contemplating a rebuild of a P6B engine)
>
> You can have the heads for the cost of shipping.  I will never use them 
> since I prefer the later two types, but it will be at least three weeks 
> before I can ship.
>
> General suggestions:
> Use an SD1 block or have the early block and crank machined to take the 
> SD1 type rear crank seal.  There are similar lip type seals available to 
> convert the P6B front cover.  I have done this on Buick 300 V8 covers.
> Use 9.35:1 pistons and run regular unleaded gas.  Install the cam bearings 
> as per Des Hammill's instructions ( I'll send them to you you if you don't 
> want to buy the book)and oil restrictors in the passage that feeds the 
> rocker shafts.  This has been common Buick V6 practice for twenty years 
> and it makes using a larger oil pump unnecessary on the street.  But,there 
> can be NO wear in the oil pump cavity or on the gears.
>
> Use the later Range Rover Cam (to '95).  It has the same lift and duration 
> as the P6B cam but is slightly advanced. Use a true roller timing set. 
> Install hardened valve seats.
>
> Don't even think about using a block until you have checked the main caps 
> for fretting.  If you can lift off the main caps with the bolts out they 
> probably aren't properly registering in the block and the block is 
> therefore junk.  After you are sure the main caps still register properly 
> in the block make your final assembly using studs instead of bolts.
>
> There has been a lot of discussion about head bolts, studs and stretch 
> bolts.  Torquing steel bolts into aluminum castings invites stripped or 
> pulled threads.  I use studs on the heads and studs are a must on two-bolt 
> mains. Milodon makes head studs, main studs and true roller timing sets.
>
> I've pontificated enough.
>
> Roverly,
> Kent K.
>
>
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