[ROVERNET - UK] follow-up to advice
Dirk Burrowes
dirk at vy-tek.com
Wed Jan 18 06:43:57 GMT 2006
Don't change the hood scoops or put a TC hood on. I think it spoils one of
the most distinctive features unique to US cars.
My two cents
Dirk
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[ROVERNET-UK]
Today's Topics:
1. P6 Painting Pointers (George Phelps)
2. Re: P6 Painting Pointers (Brooks)
3. Re: P6 Bonnet (Stephen JC Beer)
4. Re: P6 Painting Pointers (James Dean)
5. Re: Re: P6 Bonnet (Pjemail at aol.com)
6. Re: Re: P6 Bonnet (Eric Russell)
7. Re: Re: P6 Bonnet (Mark Brown)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 04:58:47 -0800 (PST)
From: George Phelps <mrpink703 at yahoo.com>
Subject: [ROVERNET - UK] P6 Painting Pointers
To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
Message-ID: <20060117125847.52508.qmail at web52608.mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Hello to all. I am now the proud new owner of Glen
Wilson's 3500S, and his parts car as well. Thanks
Glen!
Car questions:
I am first looking for advice on painting. It seems
there are two ways to proceed, getting it painted
whole or panel by panel. This second option is
appealing to me as the panels are pretty much removed
already, and as I plan to put the vinyl stuff on the
roof, I don't need to worry about removing that. (if
anyone has done the vinyl I would be interested in
that info too). Anyway, taking the car in in bits just
seems a more interesting way to go than to take the
car into a shop whole.
I would appreciate any thoughts on how best to proceed
and what I might expect to pay for a decent (not show
but not crap) job. I would also be happy to hear of
any good experiences with painters in the mid
Atlantic.
I also hope to replace the hood scooped 3500 hood with
a plain one from a 2000. Has anyone in a warmer clime
done this, I am a little concerned about heat issues.
List questions:
1) Where would I get ideas on why I can't seem to
post to the list from my other the email address, but
can post from this one?
2) Also, is there some way to search the entire
archives of this list, I can only seem to get parts of
it at a time. I have a feeling I am going to be asking
many, many questions, that have been asked before.
Thanks everybody
George
p6_rover "at" yahoo "dot" com
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------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 11:11:57 -0400
From: "Brooks" <restore at nbnet.nb.ca>
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] P6 Painting Pointers
To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Message-ID: <000e01c61b78$6346af00$0100a8c0 at DENNIS>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original
Congrats on your new acquisition !! I have done my P6B's using both methods
you described...I strongly suggest you paint the inside of the removed
panels (since they are off already) in order to protect the metal from rust
and then put them back on the car to be painted in one step. I say this
because it's much harder to get the very same results on individual
panels...it can be done but it's not really worth the concerns.
I have done several vinyl tops and it is not a simple task (at least to get
a professional result) . Your local upholstery shop should have all the
products required (or be able to order them) to do the job, just be certain
to use the proper adhesive and don't skimp on how much you apply. You
probally already know that you just can't use any type of vinyl...it must be
UV resistant. It should be installed in a very warm place and bring a friend
to help you fit it onto the car.
The hood shoud interchange (I've never done that myself) but I know the
scoops are there for a very valid reason especially in warmer
climates...additional cooling..so I would expect that could cause your
engine to run a bit hotter than intended...perhaps not enough to be a valid
concern but if you are planning to do much city driving it would be worth
consideration.
----- Original Message -----
From: "George Phelps" <mrpink703 at yahoo.com>
To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 8:58 AM
Subject: [ROVERNET - UK] P6 Painting Pointers
> Hello to all. I am now the proud new owner of Glen
> Wilson's 3500S, and his parts car as well. Thanks
> Glen!
>
> Car questions:
> I am first looking for advice on painting. It seems
> there are two ways to proceed, getting it painted
> whole or panel by panel. This second option is
> appealing to me as the panels are pretty much removed
> already, and as I plan to put the vinyl stuff on the
> roof, I don't need to worry about removing that. (if
> anyone has done the vinyl I would be interested in
> that info too). Anyway, taking the car in in bits just
> seems a more interesting way to go than to take the
> car into a shop whole.
>
> I would appreciate any thoughts on how best to proceed
> and what I might expect to pay for a decent (not show
> but not crap) job. I would also be happy to hear of
> any good experiences with painters in the mid
> Atlantic.
>
> I also hope to replace the hood scooped 3500 hood with
> a plain one from a 2000. Has anyone in a warmer clime
> done this, I am a little concerned about heat issues.
>
> List questions:
> 1) Where would I get ideas on why I can't seem to
> post to the list from my other the email address, but
> can post from this one?
> 2) Also, is there some way to search the entire
> archives of this list, I can only seem to get parts of
> it at a time. I have a feeling I am going to be asking
> many, many questions, that have been asked before.
>
> Thanks everybody
> George
> p6_rover "at" yahoo "dot" com
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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>
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> rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
> To unsubscribe, go to this web page, look near the bottom and follow
> instructions:
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------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 10:41:59 -0600
From: Stephen JC Beer <stephen at beerinc.com>
Subject: [ROVERNET - UK] Re: P6 Bonnet
To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
Message-ID: <3efc891a4ab976ef7704f677fb1e72bd at beerinc.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed
The 2000 and the 3500 hoods (bonnets) are, indeed, different. The
3500's is an exasperating inch longer -- and for the US market has an
awkward stainless strip at the front. I made a 3500 hood fit a 2000
once but I would not do it again. I have a 3500 hood stripped of the
goofy scoops that you could weld pieces over the scoop holes if it
would help but there must be a better way. My suggestion would be to
get a non-scooped 3500 hood and make sure your cooling system is up to
snuff.
Stephen Beer
Milan, NY
On Jan 17, 2006, at 9:11 AM, Brooks wrote:
> Congrats on your new acquisition !! I have done my P6B's using both
> methods you described...I strongly suggest you paint the inside of the
> removed panels (since they are off already) in order to protect the
> metal from rust and then put them back on the car to be painted in one
> step. I say this because it's much harder to get the very same results
> on individual panels...it can be done but it's not really worth the
> concerns.
> I have done several vinyl tops and it is not a simple task (at least
> to get a professional result) . Your local upholstery shop should have
> all the products required (or be able to order them) to do the job,
> just be certain to use the proper adhesive and don't skimp on how much
> you apply. You probally already know that you just can't use any type
> of vinyl...it must be UV resistant. It should be installed in a very
> warm place and bring a friend to help you fit it onto the car.
> The hood shoud interchange (I've never done that myself) but I know
> the scoops are there for a very valid reason especially in warmer
> climates...additional cooling..so I would expect that could cause your
> engine to run a bit hotter than intended...perhaps not enough to be a
> valid concern but if you are planning to do much city driving it would
> be worth consideration.
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "George Phelps"
> <mrpink703 at yahoo.com>
> To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 8:58 AM
> Subject: [ROVERNET - UK] P6 Painting Pointers
>
>
>> Hello to all. I am now the proud new owner of Glen
>> Wilson's 3500S, and his parts car as well. Thanks
>> Glen!
>>
>> Car questions:
>> I am first looking for advice on painting. It seems
>> there are two ways to proceed, getting it painted
>> whole or panel by panel. This second option is
>> appealing to me as the panels are pretty much removed
>> already, and as I plan to put the vinyl stuff on the
>> roof, I don't need to worry about removing that. (if
>> anyone has done the vinyl I would be interested in
>> that info too). Anyway, taking the car in in bits just
>> seems a more interesting way to go than to take the
>> car into a shop whole.
>>
>> I would appreciate any thoughts on how best to proceed
>> and what I might expect to pay for a decent (not show
>> but not crap) job. I would also be happy to hear of
>> any good experiences with painters in the mid
>> Atlantic.
>>
>> I also hope to replace the hood scooped 3500 hood with
>> a plain one from a 2000. Has anyone in a warmer clime
>> done this, I am a little concerned about heat issues.
>>
>> List questions:
>> 1) Where would I get ideas on why I can't seem to
>> post to the list from my other the email address, but
>> can post from this one?
>> 2) Also, is there some way to search the entire
>> archives of this list, I can only seem to get parts of
>> it at a time. I have a feeling I am going to be asking
>> many, many questions, that have been asked before.
>>
>> Thanks everybody
>> George
>> p6_rover "at" yahoo "dot" com
>>
>> __________________________________________________
>> Do You Yahoo!?
>> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
>> http://mail.yahoo.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> rovernet mailing list
>> rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
>> To unsubscribe, go to this web page, look near the bottom and follow
>> instructions:
>> http://mailman.nipltd.com/mailman/listinfo/rovernet
>> Back-up list and photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> rovernet mailing list
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> To unsubscribe, go to this web page, look near the bottom and follow
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>
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 08:32:36 -0800
From: "James Dean" <jaguru at bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] P6 Painting Pointers
To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Message-ID: <000601c61b83$a0edc2c0$7001a8c0 at XKEJag>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original
George; I painted my 1969 2000TC in Brigade red Dupont lacquer around 10
years ago, removing all the panels except the roof .It is not easy to get a
paint shop to do it this way , they all want to paint in one day and get
paid. I stripped all small panels in a strip tank, the doors, bonnet, boot,
and top, were stripped with stripper.I treated them all with Ospho.I had
the paint shop use metalprep , then etch primer, then epoxy primer. Then I
undercoated every panel with good quality undercoat, then they painted. I
had them wetsand , reshoot, wetsand again, and buff each piece separately,
then after the parts sat a month, I waxed them and assembled the car. It had
been a California, then Florida car, so had no rust , other than a tiny
trunk hole, which was repaired.I had removed all glass, including doors,a
major job. I replaced all rubber behind panels, rubber around vent wisdows,
and front and back windscreen seals.I cleaned the bottom of thr car and
undercoated it.I also added 1967 rear window frames,as I likevent windows.
After assembly, the car was gorgeous, and was shipped
by BMW/ Landrover NA, from Florida to Idaho, and put in the ballroom at the
National Landrover Dealer's convention, (along with MG's Minis. Landrovers,
and classic BMW's, and a '59 Rover I had restored). to show the heritage of
the marques associated with and owned by Rover (then owned by BMW). 3
Months later, BMW sold Landrover to Ford; I always wondered if the Ford
people were also at that resort. Perhaps my fine rover had something to do
with the demise. I will never know.
Anyway, in my opinion this is the only right way to
paint a P6. You probably won't find anyone who wants to do it in lacquer;
though I have the brigade red formula, and I have a source of lacquer, or I
am told you can buy it in Canada. The paint was kept waxed. and was good at
least 5 years, mostly in Florida sun. It has now been 10 years, the car is
inside, and the paint on top is checked, but sides and jambs are still good.
I think it could be sanded down to primer where it is checked, and reshot,
probably with modern paint, if the color could be matched; or redone in
lacquer, in the same color. It would not have to be disassembled this time.
As far as cost, I traded the Expensive German body shop Jaguar labor and
parts, for the job,I did assembly, reassembly, and stripped the fenders and
small parts. They had a painter and helper on it forweeks, and it had a
$9,000 retail bill. It would probably be cheaper for you to buy my car,
which I would like to sell. aside from a repaint it now needs a clutch
clutch hydraulics, and a gearbox. It had factory AC, has Magstar wheels
but has a 2000 engine My phone is 1954JAGUARS, or email
jaguru at bellsouth.net I have lovely photos,after it was restored, if anyone
wants them. I hope I have answered some questions James Dean, Ft.
Lauderdale.
----- Original Message -----
From: "George Phelps" <mrpink703 at yahoo.com>
To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 4:58 AM
Subject: [ROVERNET - UK] P6 Painting Pointers
> Hello to all. I am now the proud new owner of Glen
> Wilson's 3500S, and his parts car as well. Thanks
> Glen!
>
> Car questions:
> I am first looking for advice on painting. It seems
> there are two ways to proceed, getting it painted
> whole or panel by panel. This second option is
> appealing to me as the panels are pretty much removed
> already, and as I plan to put the vinyl stuff on the
> roof, I don't need to worry about removing that. (if
> anyone has done the vinyl I would be interested in
> that info too). Anyway, taking the car in in bits just
> seems a more interesting way to go than to take the
> car into a shop whole.
>
> I would appreciate any thoughts on how best to proceed
> and what I might expect to pay for a decent (not show
> but not crap) job. I would also be happy to hear of
> any good experiences with painters in the mid
> Atlantic.
>
> I also hope to replace the hood scooped 3500 hood with
> a plain one from a 2000. Has anyone in a warmer clime
> done this, I am a little concerned about heat issues.
>
> List questions:
> 1) Where would I get ideas on why I can't seem to
> post to the list from my other the email address, but
> can post from this one?
> 2) Also, is there some way to search the entire
> archives of this list, I can only seem to get parts of
> it at a time. I have a feeling I am going to be asking
> many, many questions, that have been asked before.
>
> Thanks everybody
> George
> p6_rover "at" yahoo "dot" com
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> rovernet mailing list
> rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
> To unsubscribe, go to this web page, look near the bottom and follow
> instructions:
> http://mailman.nipltd.com/mailman/listinfo/rovernet
> Back-up list and photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 11:43:07 -0500
From: Pjemail at aol.com
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] Re: P6 Bonnet
To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
Message-ID: <7A3A566D.0436978A.00195882 at aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Why do you want to get rid of the scoops? Is it a question of aesthetics?
Even if it i, taking them off will leave the car less authentic, and I
would think long and hard before doing that. In the UK, people are falling
over themselves to get the three scoop bonnet look.
Pierre Janusz
------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 09:05:50 -0800 (PST)
From: Eric Russell <p6rovers at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] Re: P6 Bonnet
To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
Message-ID: <20060117170550.94831.qmail at web34301.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
George,
The advice offered to you so far has been
well-considered.
The Rover 2000 hood latch panel is a different design
and piece of sheet metal than the 3500S
The Rover 2000 hood leading edge is thicker
The 3500 S hood leading edge is thinner and has
cut-outs for the spire nuts which hold the aluminum
eyebrow
Our Club has a new old stock hood that is the same
dimensions as the 3500 S hood but without the cut-outs
for the hood scoops. When I stood them up side by side
in my yard, they had the same outside dimension and
looked the same. When I laid it onto my 2000 engine
compartment, I could see that it would not fit.
It would be possible for you to have the "no hood
scoop look" on your car. Ruth might be able to help
with a transportation quote for you. The cost of
shipping anything these days seems to be ridiculous.
Now,....... Kent said he is coming this way this
summer. Maybe he'd consider an excess baggage charge
on your behalf :-)
Eric
--- Pjemail at aol.com wrote:
> Why do you want to get rid of the scoops? Is it a
> question of aesthetics? Even if it i, taking them
> off will leave the car less authentic, and I would
> think long and hard before doing that. In the UK,
> people are falling over themselves to get the three
> scoop bonnet look.
>
> Pierre Janusz
>
> _______________________________________________
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Webmaster & Magazine Editor:
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------------------------------
Message: 7
Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2006 09:46:06 +1100
From: Mark Brown <mbrown at automotiveforums.com>
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] Re: P6 Bonnet
To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
Message-ID: <1137537966.43cd73aec1ebc at mail.automotiveforums.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Judging by my experience with a 3500 without hood scoops in hot Australia,
your
cooling system really must be working well. Friends with good cooling
systems
did not seem to have trouble; however, my mediocre cooling system was a bit
strained and made for some scary temp needle readings. However, I can't say
what it's like with the scoops - maybe they don't make much of a difference
anyways?
Cheers
Mark Brown
------------------------------
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