[ROVERNET - UK] RE: rovernet Digest, Vol 42, Issue 35
Dirk Burrowes
dirk at vy-tek.com
Thu May 18 10:59:27 BST 2006
Hi all,
I took a closer look at the P4 on EBay and Kent is right it is an older 75
badge on the grill. I also checked the VIN number and it is correct for a
1951. But they were still using the 8 bar grill with the center light.
So either the car had accident and they replaced the grill with a newer 75
grill or the VIN tag has been changed and this really is a 1952/53 model.
I am wondering if a Cyclops grill would fit a later 75? Does anyone know?
Update on Rover meet:
Steve Manwell and I have agreed to get together at an upcoming car show and
discuss some of the details for the Rover event. I have suggested that this
be a RSTCA event and it looks like Steve likes that idea. For dates I am
considering the first weekend in June 2007. This coincides with a British
car show called "British by the Sea" and thought that we could wind up our
meet with a show of colors on that first Sunday in June. I have contacted
the organizers and have put things into the works to see if they would be
willing to make the featured marquee "ROVER"
Lastly I have also extended an invitation to JR Wadhams (John) to come and
give a tech session and perhaps send some much needed parts over for
purchase at the event. John seems interested. We also discussed the
possibility of getting order ready for US Rover owners for group shipment
and pick up at the event.
More to come soon
Dirk
-----Original Message-----
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Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2006 11:09 PM
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Subject: rovernet Digest, Vol 42, Issue 35
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[ROVERNET-UK]
Today's Topics:
1. Re: Auntie for sale on US eBay (Kent Kinard)
2. Re: Auntie for sale on US eBay (Ali Al-Abbasi)
3. Re: 2000 SC auto (Shirley & Barry Lafbery)
4. Re: 2000 SC auto (Shirley & Barry Lafbery)
5. Re: P6B oil pump troubles (John Burkhard)
6. Re: Auntie for sale on US eBay (Kent Kinard)
7. RE: P6B oil pump troubles (Robert Thornton)
8. Re: 2000 SC auto (Ron Venter)
9. Re: Rover SD1 Vanden plas for sale (Andrew Moss) (Jess Rainey)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Wed, 17 May 2006 06:22:41 -0500
From: "Kent Kinard" <kkinard at wcc.net>
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] Auntie for sale on US eBay
To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
Message-ID: <web-11919082 at mailadmin.wcc.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"; format="flowed"
On Tue, 16 May 2006 23:25:01 -0400
"Ali Al-Abbasi" <alialabbasi at hotmail.com> wrote:
> http://makeashorterlink.com/?Q1F123F1D
>
> Hi Al
I can't get this link to work.
Kent K.
------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Wed, 17 May 2006 07:55:46 -0400
From: "Ali Al-Abbasi" <alialabbasi at hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] Auntie for sale on US eBay
To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-DAV3AEF38628792FC3ABFDBCBCA10 at phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Kent
The first link should take you to a page with another link. Click on that
and you will get to the eBay action.
Regards
Al
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kent Kinard" <kkinard at wcc.net>
To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2006 7:22 AM
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] Auntie for sale on US eBay
> On Tue, 16 May 2006 23:25:01 -0400
> "Ali Al-Abbasi" <alialabbasi at hotmail.com> wrote:
> > http://makeashorterlink.com/?Q1F123F1D
> >
> > Hi Al
> I can't get this link to work.
>
> Kent K.
>
> _______________________________________________
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> rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
> To unsubscribe, go to this web page, look near the bottom and follow
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>
------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Wed, 17 May 2006 08:16:32 -0700
From: "Shirley & Barry Lafbery" <lafbery at telus.net>
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] 2000 SC auto
To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Message-ID: <000301c679c4$e1829460$6400a8c0 at HOME>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original
The solid type flex plates came from Ruth via me I still have 6 hanging on
the shop wall now.
Barry lafbery
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Russell" <p6rovers at yahoo.com>
To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 16, 2006 9:23 PM
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] 2000 SC auto
> Ron,
> I don't remember the Club selling flex plates.
> However, an ex-member of the Club may have been
> selling a few, as I recollect. Perhaps Barry Lafbery.
>
> We stick to automobilia and used parts. Safer, that
> way!
>
> Eric
>
>
> --- Ron Venter <venterrh at telus.net> wrote:
>
>> At 07:49 PM 06-05-15, you wrote:
>> >Ron noted:
>> >"A few years ago I replaced the flex plate with the
>> >solid version supplied by the club."
>> >
>> >Which club was that, in case anybody asks?
>> >
>> >Eric
>> >
>> Why Eric, the Rover Car Club of Canada is
>> "the" club, of
>> course. But there are others. Sorry about that.
>> Ron
>> V.
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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>>
>
>
> Webmaster & Magazine Editor:
> The Rover Car Club of Canada - www.roverclub.ca
>
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>
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------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Wed, 17 May 2006 08:17:17 -0700
From: "Shirley & Barry Lafbery" <lafbery at telus.net>
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] 2000 SC auto
To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Message-ID: <000901c679c4$fc14a480$6400a8c0 at HOME>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=response
These flex plates are new
Barry
----- Original Message -----
From: "birdie" <birdies at ix.netcom.com>
To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 16, 2006 10:00 PM
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] 2000 SC auto
>A word of caution on used flex plates. They must be tested for hairline
>fractures using what is it? the magnet/iron test. If there is a hairline
>fracture, the iron will line up along the fracture.
>
> Is it called a magnet spin test?
>
> If they have even the smallest hairline fracture, you don't want to bother
> with it.
>
> I tried one (modified) that came out of a Honda once, didn't work out that
> well.
>
> I think it was either too heavy or out-of-balance some how.
>
> Cheers
>
> Kathleen
>
> Eric Russell wrote:
>
>>We stick to automobilia and used parts. Safer, that
>>way!
>>
>>Eric
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> rovernet mailing list
> rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
> To unsubscribe, go to this web page, look near the bottom and follow
> instructions:
> http://mailman.nipltd.com/mailman/listinfo/rovernet
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>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.392 / Virus Database: 268.6.0/341 - Release Date: 16/05/2006
>
>
------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Wed, 17 May 2006 09:51:48 -0700
From: "John Burkhard" <burkhaj at earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] P6B oil pump troubles
To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Message-ID: <001201c679d2$376c1100$0a0110ac at john>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original
I think the small block Chevy tool will work.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glen Wilson" <glenwilson at cavtel.net>
To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 16, 2006 6:45 AM
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] P6B oil pump troubles
> On Tuesday 16 May 2006 08:12, Brooks wrote:
>> Question.....
>>
>> by using the drill method are you not turning the engine over as well
>> ??
>> do you need to remove the plugs to alow the engine to turn easier ?
>> What is needed to remove the front of the oil pump...is it much of a
>> job
>> to do ?
>>
>> Thanks for your advice..
>
> Dennis,
>
> If I have it right in my head, there is a gear that drives the
> distributor
> shaft from the side, and the bottom of the distributor shaft in turn
> drives
> the oil pump. The "screwdriver" tool goes in right past the gear that
> drives
> the distributor shaft and drives the oil pump, bypassing the distributor
> drive gear. The engine does not turn over at all, but the oil is pumped
> through the passageways.
>
> There is a coupling at the end of the drive shaft that fits into the oil
> pump
> drive shaft. The coupling differs between the SD1 engine and earlier
> engines.
> It's basically a "male" versus "female" difference. If you were to swap a
> distributor from an SD1 to a 3500S, you would have to drive a little pin
> out
> and change the little coupling. Very simple procedure.
>
> I ground the plastic handle off of a medium size Sears screwdriver so
> that all
> that was left was the metal "tang" of the tool. I simply put the
> screwdriver
> into the chuck of a 1/2-inch drive electric drill and ran it at the max
> the
> drill put out (which I think was 550 rpm) and it was enough to get the
> oil
> pressure up into the bottom of the normal range of the oil pressure gauge
> in
> the instrument panel. The gauge works if the key is in the "on" position.
> It
> used to take about five seconds for the oil pressure to come up. I
> believe
> the screwdriver blade fits into the oil pump drive gear on the older
> 3500S
> engine whereas the SD1 would require something that would engage
> the "screwdriver tip/tab/thingie" that sticks up out of the SD1 oil pump
> drive gear. For the 3500S, I attached a piece of hose over the end of the
> screwdriver tip to keep it in the slot as I ran the drill.
>
> I think that later model GM V8s had a similar arrangement and that you
> can buy
> prefab tools at speed shops to do the function of the tool I made.
>
> As usual, I'm sure Kent can provide any specific info you need on this.
> He's a
> crafty bugger!
>
> Glen
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> rovernet mailing list
> rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
> To unsubscribe, go to this web page, look near the bottom and follow
> instructions:
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------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Wed, 17 May 2006 16:44:16 -0500
From: "Kent Kinard" <kkinard at wcc.net>
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] Auntie for sale on US eBay
To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
Message-ID: <web-107365 at mailadmin.wcc.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"; format="flowed"
On Wed, 17 May 2006 07:55:46 -0400
"Ali Al-Abbasi" <alialabbasi at hotmail.com> wrote:
> Kent
>
> The first link should take you to a page with another
>link. Click on that
> and you will get to the eBay action.
>
Thanks, Al. I finally got it to work. At first I thought
this was a car I tried to buy in Ohio last year, but after
reviewing the pictures of that car, I'm sure this is a
different one. The chassis number indicates a 1951, but
the grill shell is later. This one appears to have the
chrome headlamp doors like the early Cyclopes, but it is
definitely not that early since it has round instruments.
I have seen several later LHD cars with the chrome
headlight surrounds and wondered if the dealers didn't do
this to "dress the car up." There is no clear picture of
the bonnet badge, so can't tell if it is Cyclopes or not.
Likewise for boot handle.
Roverly,
Kent K.
------------------------------
Message: 7
Date: Thu, 18 May 2006 09:09:00 +0930
From: "Robert Thornton" <R.Thornton at adelaidecitycouncil.com>
Subject: RE: [ROVERNET - UK] P6B oil pump troubles
To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Message-ID:
<E5F39546C8FEF74FA71FC83582B2FDF207266950 at ACCMX00.adelaide.sa.gov.au>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
I made a priming tool for the SD1 type pump shafts from an old bottle
jack handle.
It's also best to make sure you're using 20/50 oil in the sump, as some
of the more modern alternatives can be a bit on the thin side.
Other (unlikely) causes of no pump pressure are blocked sump pick up
pipe filter or missing gasket between pick up pipe and the internal
block oil gallery.
Rob
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at lyris.ccdata.com
[mailto:rovernet-bounces at lyris.ccdata.com] On Behalf Of John Burkhard
Sent: Thursday, 18 May 2006 2:22 AM
To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] P6B oil pump troubles
I think the small block Chevy tool will work.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glen Wilson" <glenwilson at cavtel.net>
To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 16, 2006 6:45 AM
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] P6B oil pump troubles
> On Tuesday 16 May 2006 08:12, Brooks wrote:
>> Question.....
>>
>> by using the drill method are you not turning the engine over as
well
>> ??
>> do you need to remove the plugs to alow the engine to turn easier ?
>> What is needed to remove the front of the oil pump...is it much of a
>> job
>> to do ?
>>
>> Thanks for your advice..
>
> Dennis,
>
> If I have it right in my head, there is a gear that drives the
> distributor
> shaft from the side, and the bottom of the distributor shaft in turn
> drives
> the oil pump. The "screwdriver" tool goes in right past the gear that
> drives
> the distributor shaft and drives the oil pump, bypassing the
distributor
> drive gear. The engine does not turn over at all, but the oil is
pumped
> through the passageways.
>
> There is a coupling at the end of the drive shaft that fits into the
oil
> pump
> drive shaft. The coupling differs between the SD1 engine and earlier
> engines.
> It's basically a "male" versus "female" difference. If you were to
swap a
> distributor from an SD1 to a 3500S, you would have to drive a little
pin
> out
> and change the little coupling. Very simple procedure.
>
> I ground the plastic handle off of a medium size Sears screwdriver so
> that all
> that was left was the metal "tang" of the tool. I simply put the
> screwdriver
> into the chuck of a 1/2-inch drive electric drill and ran it at the
max
> the
> drill put out (which I think was 550 rpm) and it was enough to get the
> oil
> pressure up into the bottom of the normal range of the oil pressure
gauge
> in
> the instrument panel. The gauge works if the key is in the "on"
position.
> It
> used to take about five seconds for the oil pressure to come up. I
> believe
> the screwdriver blade fits into the oil pump drive gear on the older
> 3500S
> engine whereas the SD1 would require something that would engage
> the "screwdriver tip/tab/thingie" that sticks up out of the SD1 oil
pump
> drive gear. For the 3500S, I attached a piece of hose over the end of
the
> screwdriver tip to keep it in the slot as I ran the drill.
>
> I think that later model GM V8s had a similar arrangement and that you
> can buy
> prefab tools at speed shops to do the function of the tool I made.
>
> As usual, I'm sure Kent can provide any specific info you need on
this.
> He's a
> crafty bugger!
>
> Glen
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> rovernet mailing list
> rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
> To unsubscribe, go to this web page, look near the bottom and follow
> instructions:
> http://mailman.nipltd.com/mailman/listinfo/rovernet
> Back-up list and photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
_______________________________________________
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To unsubscribe, go to this web page, look near the bottom and follow
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------------------------------
Message: 8
Date: Wed, 17 May 2006 19:31:12 -0700
From: Ron Venter <venterrh at telus.net>
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] 2000 SC auto
To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.0.20060517191448.03553080 at telus.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
At 08:16 AM 06-05-17, you wrote:
>The solid type flex plates came from Ruth via me I still have 6
>hanging on the shop wall now.
>
>Barry lafbery
A double thanks, Barry. Firstly, for getting a batch of the
plates made, and secondly for clearing up the mystery of where they
originated. I did indeed get mine from Ruth at ABC. No doubt she
explained it all at the time.
It is good to know that you still have a few left. When they
are gone, what then?
All the best,
Ron.
------------------------------
Message: 9
Date: Wed, 17 May 2006 20:07:58 -0700
From: "Jess Rainey" <jrainey at monarch.net>
Subject: [ROVERNET - UK] Re: Rover SD1 Vanden plas for sale (Andrew
Moss)
To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Message-ID: <000901c67a28$4443c390$4544f418 at G36TM11>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original
----- Original Message -----
From: <rovernet-request at lyris.ccdata.com>
To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2006 5:34 PM
Subject: rovernet Digest, Vol 42, Issue 31
> Send rovernet mailing list submissions to
> rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://mailman.nipltd.com/mailman/listinfo/rovernet
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
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>
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>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of rovernet digest..."
>
>Hi Andrew,
I have to admit that I'm intrigued by a Vanden Plas SD1 as well,
particularly if you have the parts to convert it to a left hand drive...
right hand drive can be a novelty in the North American market, but in
practical terms can be a bit fussy when driving those North American
highways and byways!
I'm in British Columbia so importing wouldn't be an issue. You don't know
of anything that would cause it to fail a provincial inspection? At this
point I'm probably just curious, but you never know! I'll give you a call.
regards,
Jess Rainey
Terrace, BC
1980 SD1
1968 2000TC
1966 2000SC
> >
> Message: 6
> Date: Mon, 15 May 2006 13:36:25 -0400
> From: "Andrew Moss" <amoss at xplornet.com>
> Subject: [ROVERNET - UK] Rover SD1 Vanden plas for sale
> To: "'Rovernet'" <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
> Message-ID: <000f01c67846$1bf7db30$c3d9010a at KITCHEN>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Hi Glen, Dirk and Dermot,
>
> Thanks for the interest in the SD1. It looks like we will be moving to
> Australia again later on this year so I do need to sell it before we go.
>
>
> I bought the car in Australia in 1998 when we lived there for 4 years.
> When we moved back to Canada, I couldn't bear to see the Vanden Plas go,
> so I rented a 40 foot container and shipped it back. It was quite
> straight forward getting it into the country as it was at least 15 years
> old and didn't have to meet any Canadian safety standards. I do have to
> test it for emissions every two years though which it passed.
>
> The car is RHD. I did have plans to convert it to LHD and have all the
> parts needed to do this conversion including a newly refinished series 2
> dash board. Unfortunately I haven't had the time to do it.
>
> I'll get some pictures up on to my web site in the next week or two.
> I'll let you know when they are available.
>
> If you are interested and can figure some way of getting into the USA,
> give me a call and we can talk about the price.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Andrew
> 613-832-3391
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
------------------------------
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