[ROVERNET - UK] Oil pump, Oil Change Warning

Kent Kinard kkinard at wcc.net
Thu Aug 23 04:18:45 BST 2007

Hi Robert,
I personally like the SD1...the styling, the handling, and 
the fact that it has 1/3 fewer parts than my P6B's.  I 
have had twelve since 1987 and still buy them up when the 
price is reasonable.  The problems are predictable and the 
solutions well known.  In spite of the fact that it has a 
dozen relays in the electrical system, I find it easy 
enough to trouble shoot.
Things to do to an SD1:
-learn how to trouble shoot the EFI-Get Franc to massage 
your ECU and fit a rising rate fuel pressure regulator.
-find the reset button for the power windows and learn how 
to disassemble and clean the switches
-buy every headlamp flasher/dimmer switch you can find
-squirt graphite in the steering column lock 
regularly-when it won't unlock, drill out the bolts and 
throw it away-fit a plain key switch in the hole where the 
shift quadrant display is found-no sane person is going to 
steal the car anyway
-Replace the head bolts with studs (10 per side only)-fit 
new head gaskets
-discard the lock and lock plate on the hatch-learn how to 
open the hatch with your finger
-Replace the cam with a 3.9 L cam and the timing chain 
with a true roller-add new lifters
-If it's a 5spd, flush the trans and use a synthetic 
synchromesh oil-if it has over 60,000 miles and still 
shifts smooth, replace the bearings now and go another 
-if its an automatic, fit a GM 700-R4
-Ditch the distributor, ballast resistor and coil-anything 
is better-GM(points or HEI), Mallory, Accel, MSD or even 
later Range Rover with the control box on the wing.
-use a fuel pump from a six cylinder Ford truck
-Wait for the rack to leak-when you figure out which of 
the four possible racks it has,rebuild it-then rebuild it 
again.  Fit new hoses.
-Replace the rear springs and shocks with 2300 units when 
the Nivomats give out
-Get the seats recovered
-paint it (If it is Tumeric, paint it a different color)
-get some Euro type headlamps and bumpers
-Now you have spent $12,000 on a car that's worth $2500 
and is now only 2/3 Rover
-keep it forever:-)
-Get used to correcting people gently "No, Rover made 
Range Rovers, not the other way around."

Kent K.

On Wed, 22 Aug 2007 03:39:26 -1200
  "Robert Heimerl" <robertime at cavtel.net> wrote:
> [Hi, I've been just reading along for a couple of 
> but here goes...]
> Glen, it's not that you're lazy -- you were just taking 
> easier route to the same destination (re-priming the oil
> pump)!  Removing the oil pump cover on an SD1 is hardly 
> picnic.  The "special multi-spline" bolts holding it in
> place are very difficult to remove.  You must have 
> 5/16" sockets and, for one even less accessible bolt, a
> miniature 5/16" box wrench.  Moreover, three different
> length bolts (screws?) are used.  Because it's not
> necessarily obvious which one goes in which location, 
> must be kept in specific order.
> Now why would I be taking apart my car's oil pump?  I
> suggest that all Rover V8 (at least SD1 version) owners 
> the following very carefully (from a supplement to the
> Haynes shop manual -- "Engine oil and filter - 
> "While the oil is draining, do not attempt to remove the 
> filter, as this will cause the oil pump to drain and 
> cause lack of lubrication on restarting."
> Instead, the manual directs us to first refill the 
> with oil.
> "Now the filter can be removed and discarded."
> Another source, Practical Classics' "Rover SD1 Suvival
> Guide," from October 1996, has the following statement 
> its first paragraph:
> "Oil changes require a special procedure: if the oil 
> drains it takes a long time to prime, and MAY NEVER DO 
> COMPLETELY (emphasis added).  Change the oil filter 
> Crawl under the car with a new filter three-quarters 
>full of
> new oil, unscrew the old filter and then hand-tighten 
> new one straight on.  Then drain and refill the sump 
> fresh oil."
> Brilliant, perfectly brilliant, I say!  What other sort 
> consumer-unfriendly practices could they come up with? 
> Only
> Rover (or it's remnants) know for sure!  [The fact that
> these two sources contradict one another regarding the 
> of changing the oil and  filter should reassure the rest 
> us, too!]
> So how long until my oil pump regains prime?  Hopefully 
> the above-referenced "never."  I've not yet reassembled 
> but will use the "packing with vaseline" method 
> by Glen and a variety of reliable sources. 
> Interestingly
> enough, I've seen a special tool up for auction on 
> specifically designed for repriming this pump (via the
> distributor method).
> How many quick-change oil places would follow the proper
> procedures?  How many do-it-yourselfers would know to 
> this problem?  On my previous SD1, I never had this 
> (and, yes, there are other possible reasons that my 
> one may have low oil pressure -- but this developed 
> the specific circumstances described above).  And does
> anyone out there recommend using single weight oil, 
> than the 20w-50 Castrol GT that I normally use?
> Meanwhile, the rather noisy fuel pump on my car (1980 
> 3.5 V8) decided to pack it in, too.  I've had an 
> search for this item, cross-referencing Bosch part 
> etc., getting quotes from about $100 to $400 (I just got 
> for $150).  If anyone's interested, I can share more
> detailed information on this subject.  Due to the tiny
> vehicle population over here few places actually have a
> listing for 1980-81 Rover 3500 components, but eBay is
> helpful nowadays. [Yes, these pumps are used on other
> vehicles. Can you say "Jaguar" with that appropriately
> snooty British style of pronunciation?]
> By the way, who is actually being given access to the 
> cars offered by the gentleman in British Columbia?  I 
> we should call him directly, right?
> Since I owned one of these cars previously, some out 
> may be saying "it serves him right, he should know 
> Still, I find them interesting.  Anyone else out there 
> likes the SD1's?  I noted a disparaging remark recently,
> and, yes, know the car's sad story very well.  I also 
> in the YouTube BBC History of Rover -- it's quite good,
> worthwhile seeing, in spite of the obnoxious "car guy"
> mouthing off in front of the last (BMW-developed) Rover 
> A friend in London had one on a lease which ended last 
> really liked it.  He'd have to turn to the Chinese to 
>get a
> replacement, it appears!
> Cheers,
> (Rover) Robert
>> denlet wrote:
>> GLEN:
>> you can also put an 1/4 liter of "VASELINE" (petroleum
>> jelly buy in drugstore ) in the oil pump.Vaseline is
>> completely mixed with oil.It's very good to have a good
>> pressure for the first start. If you take a drill after
>> about 2 mn, you must  have a pressure , the drill turn
>> more slowly, the pressure become higher. The best is to
>> fill the hydraulic tappets.(leave in a box during 24 H 
>> special oil ).
>>         thank you           denis
>> Good advice, Denis. Some of us are too lazy to take the
>> oil pump apart but have lots of time to remove the
>> distributor, build a special tool to fit the drill, and
>> reinstall the distributor!   ;-)
>> Glen
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