[ROVERNET - UK] 1935 axle assembly
agale at iinet.net.au
Sun Aug 26 10:32:23 BST 2007
Thanks for the response. I had to replace the diff seals on my Rover 10 as
the diff lube was oiling the rear brake shoes.
I have not dismantled the diff, merely extracted the axles, hubs and wheel
I have a copy of the Rover Sports register P2 workshop manual courtesy of
the Western Australian Rover Club library, but its instructions don't seem
to make sense to me as they seem to leave something out ...
In slightly abridged form, it reads:
1. Fit the bearing outer race into the hub shell, grease the inner part of
the race with a lithium-based high melting point grease, packing it about
half full and drop the bearing into the hub.
2. Press the oil seal into its carrier so that its lip will face towards the
differential and press the carrier into hub so as to allow it at least
1/16in end float on the bearing.
>>this then traps the bearing inside the hub, making it one unit<<
3. Assemble the (brake drum) backing plate to the hub.
4. Push the axle shaft through the hub, fit the key and assemble the hub
flange onto it with a smear of green Loctite, fitting the plain washer and
do the nut up tight.
>>this wedges the flange firmly on the axle, but does not compress the hub
onto its taper. There is about 5mm movement)<<
5. Check that the key remains in its correct position during this operation.
Finally fit a new split pin.
6. Re-assemble the hub assembly to the axle casing using sufficient shims to
allow just perceptible end float.
>>the bearing is fighting going onto the end of the axle casing ... it is as
if it needs to be pressed further on<<
There are essentially three major units: the axle, the hub and the outer
flange (to which the wheel bolts on.
The hub and outer flange are a tapered fit onto the axle, which is slid
through the hub before the outer flange is bolted on (step 4). The hub then
bolts onto the outer rim of the diff casing with six bolts.
I would have thought the bearing race was pressed onto the axle, as it
appears to float around, however whilst this is mentioned in the RSR manual
for the later models with the "upset shafts" this is not mentioned for my
model, which has built up shafts. The end flange only tightens so far, and
does not push the bearing onto the axle.
If you have the telephone number of a kind person who has been through this
before, I don't mind calling from Oz to get some advice. At this stage, I
am thinking I should have tolerated the dripping axle!! (no I could not, as
it was lubricating the rear brake!!).
I am concerned about tightening the hubs onto the axle casing, as I am
unsure about what the axles will be pushing against inside the differential.
The manual says " If you cannot the correct clearance, you have probably
left out the distance pieces in the differential. These are designed to
straddle the pin on which the planet wheels revolve, not to touch it. End
thrust for each shaft is taken onto the other via these bridge pieces." Well
I have not touched them, tho I can see that the axle abuts something in
there ... something I do not want to bend.
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