[ROVERNET - UK] P6B - Removing rear brakes
vern at inkspotco.com
Sun Mar 18 18:07:30 GMT 2007
A few notes regarding the rear brake debacle, from someone who
started working on these cars as an amateur in 1974 and eventually
did it for a living, working for a ex-factory-trained mechanic:
First off, everybody is right, in one way or another.
The manual's method is perfectly sound, except:
* you do need a thin walled socket. I presume British tools were made
with more economical use of material than us brutish colonials. Also,
a pair of stubby 9/16" wrenches for the brake hose (preferably
tubing wrenches, our shop actually had a cut down pair at one point
just for replacing the joining brake hose)
* Early cars have a peculiar, short nut with a metal cap that can
make the socket impracticable
* The manual assumes perfect conditions, not 40 years on and:
* In any event, age, operating conditions and poor previous work can
make it easier to remove or lower the diff complete than loosen the
nut in situ. This is particularly true when you get the nut off, only
to discover that the previous lad didn't grease the pivot pin, which
is now well and truly seized.
* Removing the handbrake lever eases the task, but without some kind
of plug the handbrake "tappet" inevitably falls into the shaft bore.
Still, it is little work to replace the tappet on the bench.
Removing the disks:
* Great option, but be sure to place your jackstands on rods in the
jacking points or on the body itself, for two reasons: first the
dedion tube will expand and second, jackstands on trailing arms don't
give enough angle to easily rotate the half shafts off the disks.
* Reattaching the half shafts can be an ordeal, solo you can use a
spanish windlass or a comealong to pull them together, otherwise some
one pushing from the outside will work, after you make sure they
cannot push the car off the jackstands! Don't try to use the bolts to
pull the halfshaft in because:
* Be aware that the bolts for the disks are special, as are the thick
washers underneath. The locking tabs are useless after the second use
or so (technically the first, but if care tapping back can do
wonders), but as long as the threads and bearing surfaces are clean
and not oiled and you use a torque wrench, is is safe enough for a
lightly driven car. The more cautious can add loctite. If you scrap
the locking tabs, make sure to check the first time that the bolts
don't now protrude far enough to score the oil catcher on the stub
axle housing (rarely happens)
About dropping the rear end:
* The rear mounting bracket for the diff was not intended to be
removed and refitting as a matter of course. The best way, mostly
because it can be done completely from under the car, is to just to
drop the diff from the bracket. If you are going to remove the
bracket, please hold the bolt head still beneath the car and remove
the nut inside the trunk.
* When dropping but not removing the diff, you can leave the front
mount attached if: the mount is not oil-soaked and swollen or dry and
shrivelled up; and you only drop the diff far enough to get good
access to the brakes. Rotate the prop shaft so that the cross in the
ujoint is horizontal. Otherwise detach the front mount and let it
rest on a jackstand so the prop shaft doesn't support the diff's
And finally, about the all-caps in e-mails. Regardless of the
"shouting" convention, remember that writing in all-caps makes your
text much less legible. It takes more effort to read, so not only is
your message going to be regarded as combative, it is also not going
to get across. Double-edged sword, that.
Vern Klukas I'm a little . . .
Inkspot Type & Design
vern at inkspotco.com
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