[ROVERNET - UK] Rover 3500S cam etc

Kent Kinard kkinard at wcc.net
Wed May 30 22:29:36 BST 2007

Hi Bill,
I concur with Aidrian.  The chief advantage to the SD1 heads is the 
hardened valve seat.  The heads don't breath that much better.  When 
fitting new timing chain set, go for a "true roller" from Edelbrock or 
Cloyes.  It may be listed as a timing set for a Buick V6 1962-1976 or 
Buick V8 1961-1980.  When fitting thicker head gaskets you will need to 
check lifter preload after the heads are torqued. Use only the upper 10 
bolts on each side.  3.9 cam is all you need but prices vary and you 
must consider freight from the UK if you order from Rimmers or other UK 
suppliers.   The 3.9 cam is the same profile and lift as the 3.5 cam but 
slightly advanced.  If choosing an aftermarket cam, do not exceed .400 
lift at the lobe. Do a leak-down test.  All this assumes that when you 
remove the valley gasket you are NOT greeted by great gobs of crusty, 
burned on, black sludge. If you do have the black plague, it's time to 
pull the engine and do a rebuild..

Kent K.

Aidrian Bridgeman-Sutton wrote:

> Bill
> Hopefully this will stimulate some debate on the best way. One place
> that has a lot of useful info is the RPI Engineering website;
> http://www.rpiv8.com/
> Heads - the quickest/simplest upgrade is to use SD1 heads which will
> bolt straight on - these have larger valves and will improve the
> breathing. If you use composite head gaskets you will loose some
> compression, but you may find that with lower octane unleaded passing
> for premium fuel these days that this is no bad thing. However the
> composite gaskets do require extra care when tightening the heads down
> as the outer bolts can tilt the head on the gasket
> If you want to spend a bit more Turner Engineering and RPI in the UK
> can supply higher performance heads; both have excellent reputations.
> D&D Fabrications in Michigan are US specialist in the GM/Rover engine
> and may be able to help.
> Cam - the cam from a 3.9l Range Rover engine is a simple upgrade and
> should be available from any Land Rover parts department - cams made
> after the seventies seem less prone to premature wear, but you still
> need to keep up on the oil changes.  While you're changing the cam
> replace the timing gears and chain as I bet the chain will have
> stretched over the last three and a bit decades
> There are specialist aftermarket cam suppliers if you want something a
> bit fancier;  Crower have offered cams for the 215/3500 series in the
> past as well as lifters
> Aidrian
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