>
From gianluca.ruotolo at enel.it Wed Oct 1 03:58:04 2008
From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.it (gianluca.ruotolo at enel.it)
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2008 09:58:04 +0200
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] R: R: Rover p6 on e- bay england,
and help required
In-Reply-To: <BAY106-W461D091B8A8AE2D9C8CB1FB0430@phx.gbl>
References: <mailman.1.1222557721.6722.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca><001101c9217c$bb8bea60$32a3bf20$@org>
<AD15D6E6287C7B45BFF991A72C84E38A86C227@E30IYLMJ.risorse.enel>
<BAY106-W461D091B8A8AE2D9C8CB1FB0430@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <AD15D6E6287C7B45BFF991A72C84E38A86C22D@E30IYLMJ.risorse.enel>
It is strange.
On continental drive cars, near side is left hand side, because steering wheel is on the left..
But on english cars...
Thanks to everyone for the informations!
Best regards, Gianluca.
-----Messaggio originale-----
Da: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] Per conto di Steven Dibdin
Inviato: marted? 30 settembre 2008 18.10
A: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
Oggetto: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] R: Rover p6 on e- bay england, and help required
Hi Gianluca,
NSR = near side rear
OSR = off side rear
Near side = Left hand side
Off side = Right hand side
FRONT SUSPENSION JOINT DUST COVERS SPLIT = They are talking about the rubber boot over the ball joints on the front suspension.
Hope that hopes you,
StevenD
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From lingfield51 at btinternet.com Wed Oct 1 06:01:16 2008
From: lingfield51 at btinternet.com (JULIET KEILER)
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2008 10:01:16 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] R: R: Rover p6 on e- bay england,
and help required
Message-ID: <492589.65883.qm@web86006.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
This is exactly why all Rover manuals refer to left hand or right hand. This is when viewed form the rear of the vehicle looking forwards, this way the steering wheel position makes no difference.
?
Alan Francis (partviking)
----- Original Message ----
From: "gianluca.ruotolo at enel.it" <gianluca.ruotolo at enel.it>
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Sent: Wednesday, 1 October, 2008 8:58:04 AM
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] R: R: Rover p6 on e- bay england, and help required
It is strange.
On continental drive cars, near side is left hand side, because steering wheel is on the left..
But on english cars...
Thanks to everyone for the informations!
Best regards, Gianluca.
-----Messaggio originale-----
Da: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] Per conto di Steven Dibdin
Inviato: marted? 30 settembre 2008 18.10
A: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
Oggetto: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] R: Rover p6 on e- bay england, and help required
Hi Gianluca,
NSR = near side rear
OSR = off side rear
Near side = Left hand side
Off side = Right hand side
FRONT SUSPENSION JOINT DUST COVERS SPLIT = They are talking about the rubber boot over the ball joints on the front suspension.
Hope that hopes you,
StevenD
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081001/685dfd34/attachment-0001.html>
From gianluca.ruotolo at enel.it Wed Oct 1 06:38:14 2008
From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.it (gianluca.ruotolo at enel.it)
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2008 12:38:14 +0200
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] R: near and off
In-Reply-To: <05BB196AB3DA6C4BBE11AB6C957581FE10537096@sfo-exch-01.dolby.net>
References: <BAY106-W258AC0B58E8CC292A11BFDB0430@phx.gbl>
<05BB196AB3DA6C4BBE11AB6C957581FE10537096@sfo-exch-01.dolby.net>
Message-ID: <AD15D6E6287C7B45BFF991A72C84E38A86C23A@E30IYLMJ.risorse.enel>
Very interesting.
Thanks.
-----Messaggio originale-----
Da: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] Per conto di Gundry, Kenneth
Inviato: marted? 30 settembre 2008 21.50
A: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
Oggetto: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] near and off
See http://www.bartleby.com/81/11955.html
Ken G
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
On Behalf Of Steven Dibdin
Sent: Tuesday, September 30, 2008 12:43 PM
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] R: Rover p6 on e- bay england, and help required
I think it predates cars. I horse riding you always mount and dismount on th eleft jnd side (the near side). I may be wrong on this though.....
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or
no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
-----------------------------------------
This message (including any attachments) may contain confidential information intended for a specific individual and purpose. If you are not the intended recipient, delete this message. If you are not the intended recipient, disclosing, copying, distributing, or taking any action based on this message is strictly prohibited.
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From sdibdin at hotmail.com Wed Oct 1 10:43:07 2008
From: sdibdin at hotmail.com (Steven Dibdin)
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2008 14:43:07 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rear brake retractor tool
In-Reply-To: <05BB196AB3DA6C4BBE11AB6C957581FE10537096@sfo-exch-01.dolby.net>
References: <BAY106-W258AC0B58E8CC292A11BFDB0430@phx.gbl>
<05BB196AB3DA6C4BBE11AB6C957581FE10537096@sfo-exch-01.dolby.net>
Message-ID: <BAY106-W34DFD1398D6363C6384CB4B0420@phx.gbl>
Invaluable for working on the rear calipers:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Rover-P6-2000-3500-Rear-Brake-Tool-For-rear-pads_W0QQitemZ270279244931QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item270279244931&_trkparms=39%3A1|66%3A2|65%3A1|240%3A1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
From gianluca.ruotolo at enel.it Wed Oct 1 11:10:42 2008
From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.it (gianluca.ruotolo at enel.it)
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2008 17:10:42 +0200
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] R: Rear brake retractor tool
In-Reply-To: <BAY106-W34DFD1398D6363C6384CB4B0420@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY106-W258AC0B58E8CC292A11BFDB0430@phx.gbl><05BB196AB3DA6C4BBE11AB6C957581FE10537096@sfo-exch-01.dolby.net>
<BAY106-W34DFD1398D6363C6384CB4B0420@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <AD15D6E6287C7B45BFF991A72C84E38A86C24C@E30IYLMJ.risorse.enel>
Please how does it work?
Thanks, gianluca.
-----Messaggio originale-----
Da: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] Per conto di Steven Dibdin
Inviato: mercoled? 1 ottobre 2008 16.43
A: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
Oggetto: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rear brake retractor tool
Invaluable for working on the rear calipers:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Rover-P6-2000-3500-Rear-Brake-Tool-For-rear-pads_W0QQitemZ270279244931QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item270279244931&_trkparms=39%3A1|66%3A2|65%3A1|240%3A1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From sdibdin at hotmail.com Wed Oct 1 11:15:50 2008
From: sdibdin at hotmail.com (Steven Dibdin)
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2008 15:15:50 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] R: Rear brake retractor tool
In-Reply-To: <AD15D6E6287C7B45BFF991A72C84E38A86C24C@E30IYLMJ.risorse.enel>
References: <BAY106-W258AC0B58E8CC292A11BFDB0430@phx.gbl><05BB196AB3DA6C4BBE11AB6C957581FE10537096@sfo-exch-01.dolby.net>
<BAY106-W34DFD1398D6363C6384CB4B0420@phx.gbl>
<AD15D6E6287C7B45BFF991A72C84E38A86C24C@E30IYLMJ.risorse.enel>
Message-ID: <BAY106-W36535650FA9C296A4594EDB0420@phx.gbl>
When you replace the pads on the rear calipers you have to wind the piston backinto the caliper. This is not easy to do if you have regular sized fingers. The tool slides into the gap left by the pads and will let you wind the piston back without you cutting your fingers to shreds.
Hope that's clear?
StevenD
From gianluca.ruotolo at enel.it Wed Oct 1 11:33:24 2008
From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.it (gianluca.ruotolo at enel.it)
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2008 17:33:24 +0200
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] R: R: Rear brake retractor tool
In-Reply-To: <BAY106-W36535650FA9C296A4594EDB0420@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY106-W258AC0B58E8CC292A11BFDB0430@phx.gbl><05BB196AB3DA6C4BBE11AB6C957581FE10537096@sfo-exch-01.dolby.net><BAY106-W34DFD1398D6363C6384CB4B0420@phx.gbl>
<AD15D6E6287C7B45BFF991A72C84E38A86C24C@E30IYLMJ.risorse.enel>
<BAY106-W36535650FA9C296A4594EDB0420@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <AD15D6E6287C7B45BFF991A72C84E38A86C24E@E30IYLMJ.risorse.enel>
Very kind of you.
I will necver do it on my own!
Best regards, Gianluca.
-----Messaggio originale-----
Da: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] Per conto di Steven Dibdin
Inviato: mercoled? 1 ottobre 2008 17.16
A: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
Oggetto: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] R: Rear brake retractor tool
When you replace the pads on the rear calipers you have to wind the piston backinto the caliper. This is not easy to do if you have regular sized fingers. The tool slides into the gap left by the pads and will let you wind the piston back without you cutting your fingers to shreds.
Hope that's clear?
StevenD
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From twinklsun at yahoo.com Wed Oct 1 12:08:41 2008
From: twinklsun at yahoo.com (Laine Colley)
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2008 09:08:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] brake tool
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1222876809.20040.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <969500.11281.qm@web50506.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
And when you're done repairing the brakes, you can have your personal chef make an extra special Roveresque pie with custom fluting on the edges with it!?? lol
Laine
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081001/8836891f/attachment.html>
From kkinard at att.net Wed Oct 1 13:15:43 2008
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Wed, 01 Oct 2008 12:15:43 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Other P6 service tools
In-Reply-To: <969500.11281.qm@web50506.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <969500.11281.qm@web50506.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <48E3B03F.80401@att.net>
Hi All,
I feel sure that I now have a complete set of special service tools for
the P6/P6B, including the aforementioned "pie cutter" and front spring
retaining rods. I have yet to catalogue them. None of us will have
regular use for these tools since there is no longer such a thing as a
P6 restoration shop in the western hemisphere, so it seems only fair to
set up a scheme where they can be loaned out for a small fee (and a
large deposit, in case you lose one of them!) The RCCC or some other
individual may have these tools but to split them up or sell them
individually would eliminate the potential for the "lending library"
approach. Is anyone doing this now?
Does this sound interesting? Are you in need of any tool immediately?
Roverevolvingly,
Kent K.
Laine Colley wrote:
> And when you're done repairing the brakes, you can have your personal
> chef make an extra special Roveresque pie with custom fluting on the
> edges with it! lol
>
> Laine
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net Wed Oct 1 16:03:39 2008
From: pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net (Pete Holbrook)
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2008 13:03:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Other P6 service tools library
In-Reply-To: <48E3B03F.80401@att.net>
Message-ID: <32893.90416.qm@web83007.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Brilliant idea Kent,
Cheers, Peter
--- On Wed, 10/1/08, Kent Kinard <kkinard at att.net> wrote:
From: Kent Kinard <kkinard at att.net>
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Other P6 service tools
To: twinklsun at yahoo.com, "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Date: Wednesday, October 1, 2008, 10:15 AM
Hi All,
I feel sure that I now have a complete set of special service tools for
the P6/P6B, including the aforementioned "pie cutter" and front
spring
retaining rods. I have yet to catalogue them. None of us will have
regular use for these tools since there is no longer such a thing as a
P6 restoration shop in the western hemisphere, so it seems only fair to
set up a scheme where they can be loaned out for a small fee (and a
large deposit, in case you lose one of them!) The RCCC or some other
individual may have these tools but to split them up or sell them
individually would eliminate the potential for the "lending library"
approach. Is anyone doing this now?
Does this sound interesting? Are you in need of any tool immediately?
Roverevolvingly,
Kent K.
Laine Colley wrote:
> And when you're done repairing the brakes, you can have your personal
> chef make an extra special Roveresque pie with custom fluting on the
> edges with it! lol
>
> Laine
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081001/802a2647/attachment.html>
From slatskars at comcast.net Wed Oct 1 21:34:34 2008
From: slatskars at comcast.net (slatskars at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 02 Oct 2008 01:34:34 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Other P6 service tools
Message-ID: <100220080134.18618.48E4252A0006BA65000048BA22007348309C9D0E059C9B0E049C@comcast.net>
Hi Kent,
What a great idea! It should probably be expanded, to include the other Rover models also. You know ,like P-4's and P-5's, if special tools are called for. I have always wondered, just how complicated some of these "special" tools are and how difficult it would be to manufacture some of them, if one had a proper drawing. Many manuals have pictures of some of them, but not very detailed. Although, in some manuals, they even give dimensions for them. Believe it or not, Porsche is pretty good about this.
Slats
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Kent Kinard <kkinard at att.net>
> Hi All,
> I feel sure that I now have a complete set of special service tools for
> the P6/P6B, including the aforementioned "pie cutter" and front spring
> retaining rods. I have yet to catalogue them. None of us will have
> regular use for these tools since there is no longer such a thing as a
> P6 restoration shop in the western hemisphere, so it seems only fair to
> set up a scheme where they can be loaned out for a small fee (and a
> large deposit, in case you lose one of them!) The RCCC or some other
> individual may have these tools but to split them up or sell them
> individually would eliminate the potential for the "lending library"
> approach. Is anyone doing this now?
>
> Does this sound interesting? Are you in need of any tool immediately?
>
> Roverevolvingly,
> Kent K.
>
> Laine Colley wrote:
> > And when you're done repairing the brakes, you can have your personal
> > chef make an extra special Roveresque pie with custom fluting on the
> > edges with it! lol
> >
> > Laine
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Rovernet mailing list
> > Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> > Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> > http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> > Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From vmitps at netspace.net.au Thu Oct 2 02:51:14 2008
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2008 16:51:14 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] brake tool
In-Reply-To: <969500.11281.qm@web50506.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <969500.11281.qm@web50506.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <B3E67FAB1DFC4708B8B3C0859A43865B@VISTA>
Yep. Designed for shredding.
I use a bicycle spoke to pull the lever, works nicely.
Push is finger or screwdriver.
PVS
----- Original Message -----
From: Laine Colley
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2008 2:08 AM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] brake tool
And when you're done repairing the brakes, you can have your personal chef make an extra special Roveresque pie with custom fluting on the edges with it! lol
Laine
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081002/bc0f11d4/attachment.html>
From sdibdin at hotmail.com Thu Oct 2 09:40:04 2008
From: sdibdin at hotmail.com (Steven Dibdin)
Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2008 13:40:04 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Other P6 service tools
In-Reply-To: <48E3B03F.80401@att.net>
References: <969500.11281.qm@web50506.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
<48E3B03F.80401@att.net>
Message-ID: <BAY106-W33B004CDDF42A5956132D9B03D0@phx.gbl>
Hi Kent,
Brillient idea! I have a couple of special tools for my TC. One is a large servo wrench for opening the bayonet style vacuum chambers. and an assortment of turned aluminium coves for making sure I don't damage new seals when rebuilding master cylinders and rear calipers. (this was because the bores in question had been re-sleeved and I didn't want the edge of teh sleeves to damage the new seals).
May be we could all list items that we have and how to make them. My favourite item is still the right angled 1/4" open ended spanner for the lock nuts on the SU screws. Life is so much easier with that.
Cheers,
Steven
From slatskars at comcast.net Thu Oct 2 10:29:33 2008
From: slatskars at comcast.net (slatskars at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 02 Oct 2008 14:29:33 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Other P6 service tools
Message-ID: <100220081429.29055.48E4DACD0001A5760000717F22070009539C9D0E059C9B0E049C@comcast.net>
Hi Steven,
I have two sets of Sears "Craftsman" combination ignition wrenches that I use when small open or box wrenches are needed. One set is S.A.E. and the other metric. I have had these for 25 plus years. The sets are eight or nine wrenches in a small plastic pouch. I don't know it they still carry these or not, but they are extremely handy to have for small hardware or in tight places. One set goes from 5/32" to 1/2" and the other goes from 5.5 mm to 13 mm.
Slats
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Steven Dibdin <sdibdin at hotmail.com>
>
> Hi Kent,
>
> Brillient idea! I have a couple of special tools for my TC. One is a large servo
> wrench for opening the bayonet style vacuum chambers. and an assortment of
> turned aluminium coves for making sure I don't damage new seals when rebuilding
> master cylinders and rear calipers. (this was because the bores in question had
> been re-sleeved and I didn't want the edge of teh sleeves to damage the new
> seals).
>
> May be we could all list items that we have and how to make them. My favourite
> item is still the right angled 1/4" open ended spanner for the lock nuts on the
> SU screws. Life is so much easier with that.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Steven
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From sdibdin at hotmail.com Thu Oct 2 11:48:51 2008
From: sdibdin at hotmail.com (Steven Dibdin)
Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2008 15:48:51 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Other P6 service tools
In-Reply-To: <100220081429.29055.48E4DACD0001A5760000717F22070009539C9D0E059C9B0E049C@comcast.net>
References: <100220081429.29055.48E4DACD0001A5760000717F22070009539C9D0E059C9B0E049C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BAY106-W4907C0723A4B4E11549FC1B03D0@phx.gbl>
Sounds really useful! I made mine with some 1/8" steel on the mill. Then just a regular nutdriver on screw itself. Not as elegant as the Craftsman set, but it serves well enough.
From j_radcliffe at hotmail.com Thu Oct 2 12:28:08 2008
From: j_radcliffe at hotmail.com (James Radcliffe)
Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2008 12:28:08 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Special Tools
In-Reply-To: <mailman.13.1222962530.6722.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
References: <mailman.13.1222962530.6722.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <BLU140-W80EB6F48D4BD5719879538E3D0@phx.gbl>
t;
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Thu, 02 Oct 2008 14:29:33 +0000
> From: slatskars at comcast.net
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Other P6 service tools
> To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts."
> <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Message-ID:
> <100220081429.29055.48E4DACD0001A5760000717F22070009539C9D0E059C9B0E049C at comcast.net>
>
>
> Hi Steven,
>
> I have two sets of Sears "Craftsman" combination ignition wrenches that I use when small open or box wrenches are needed. One set is S.A.E. and the other metric. I have had these for 25 plus years. The sets are eight or nine wrenches in a small plastic pouch. I don't know it they still carry these or not, but they are extremely handy to have for small hardware or in tight places. One set goes from 5/32" to 1/2" and the other goes from 5.5 mm to 13 mm.
>
> Slats
&g
They still sold them a couple of years ago when I bought a set, and I have used them a lot.
James.
_________________________________________________________________
See how Windows Mobile brings your life together?at home, work, or on the go.
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093182mrt/direct/01/
From gianluca.ruotolo at enel.it Thu Oct 2 14:38:28 2008
From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.it (gianluca.ruotolo at enel.it)
Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2008 20:38:28 +0200
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] R: R: Rear brake retractor tool
In-Reply-To: <BAY106-W36535650FA9C296A4594EDB0420@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY106-W258AC0B58E8CC292A11BFDB0430@phx.gbl><05BB196AB3DA6C4BBE11AB6C957581FE10537096@sfo-exch-01.dolby.net><BAY106-W34DFD1398D6363C6384CB4B0420@phx.gbl>
<AD15D6E6287C7B45BFF991A72C84E38A86C24C@E30IYLMJ.risorse.enel>
<BAY106-W36535650FA9C296A4594EDB0420@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <AD15D6E6287C7B45BFF991A72C84E38A86C26E@E30IYLMJ.risorse.enel>
http://it.youtube.com/watch?v=hGmNJHhc_uA&NR=1
The same tool appears in this video.
It seems also suitab le for SD1!
Best regards, Gianluca.
-----Messaggio originale-----
Da: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] Per conto di Steven Dibdin
Inviato: mercoled? 1 ottobre 2008 17.16
A: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
Oggetto: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] R: Rear brake retractor tool
When you replace the pads on the rear calipers you have to wind the piston backinto the caliper. This is not easy to do if you have regular sized fingers. The tool slides into the gap left by the pads and will let you wind the piston back without you cutting your fingers to shreds.
Hope that's clear?
StevenD
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From dirk at vy-tek.com Thu Oct 2 22:26:10 2008
From: dirk at vy-tek.com (Dirk Burrowes)
Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2008 22:26:10 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Tool loan library
In-Reply-To: <mailman.13.1222962530.6722.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <20081003022814.B522880077@emta1.nyc1.bluetie.com>
Hello All,
A tool loan service would be a great idea not only from the benefit of
having the availability of a special tool but also from the perspective that
it both motivates one to finish a potentially difficult job without it but
also solutions are shared.
So why not expand the idea to spares as well? My policy is that if I have a
part I don't need and someone needs it then I will give it to them.
(Put aside that I guilt them into coming to my Rover event) So this could be
a tool loan and a part exchange group with the goal of keeping more cars on
the road and making a more affordable to do so.
I would like to hear any ideas anyone has that expands on this idea. Or if
you need something email me and I will do my best to help out.
Let's start with pie being made by Laine loan her the brake tool.
Dirk
www.roveramerica.com
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of rovernet-request at rovernet.ca
Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2008 11:49 AM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: Rovernet Digest, Vol 4, Issue 3
Send Rovernet mailing list submissions to
rovernet at rovernet.ca
To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
rovernet-request at rovernet.ca
You can reach the person managing the list at
rovernet-owner at rovernet.ca
When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of Rovernet digest..."
Please edit your digest reply by changing the subject line to the topic to
which you are referring.
Today's Topics:
1. Re: brake tool (Laine Colley)
2. Other P6 service tools (Kent Kinard)
3. Re: Other P6 service tools library (Pete Holbrook)
4. Re: Other P6 service tools (slatskars at comcast.net)
5. Re: brake tool (Netspace)
6. Re: Other P6 service tools (Steven Dibdin)
7. Re: Other P6 service tools (slatskars at comcast.net)
8. Re: Other P6 service tools (Steven Dibdin)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2008 09:08:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: Laine Colley <twinklsun at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] brake tool
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Message-ID: <969500.11281.qm at web50506.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
And when you're done repairing the brakes, you can have your personal chef
make an extra special Roveresque pie with custom fluting on the edges with
it!?? lol
Laine
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL:
<http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081001/8836
891f/attachment-0001.html>
------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Wed, 01 Oct 2008 12:15:43 -0500
From: Kent Kinard <kkinard at att.net>
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Other P6 service tools
To: twinklsun at yahoo.com, "The original list for Rover car
enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <48E3B03F.80401 at att.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Hi All,
I feel sure that I now have a complete set of special service tools for
the P6/P6B, including the aforementioned "pie cutter" and front spring
retaining rods. I have yet to catalogue them. None of us will have
regular use for these tools since there is no longer such a thing as a
P6 restoration shop in the western hemisphere, so it seems only fair to
set up a scheme where they can be loaned out for a small fee (and a
large deposit, in case you lose one of them!) The RCCC or some other
individual may have these tools but to split them up or sell them
individually would eliminate the potential for the "lending library"
approach. Is anyone doing this now?
Does this sound interesting? Are you in need of any tool immediately?
Roverevolvingly,
Kent K.
Laine Colley wrote:
> And when you're done repairing the brakes, you can have your personal
> chef make an extra special Roveresque pie with custom fluting on the
> edges with it! lol
>
> Laine
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2008 13:03:39 -0700 (PDT)
From: Pete Holbrook <pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Other P6 service tools library
To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts."
<rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <32893.90416.qm at web83007.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Brilliant idea Kent,
Cheers, Peter
--- On Wed, 10/1/08, Kent Kinard <kkinard at att.net> wrote:
From: Kent Kinard <kkinard at att.net>
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Other P6 service tools
To: twinklsun at yahoo.com, "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts."
<rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Date: Wednesday, October 1, 2008, 10:15 AM
Hi All,
I feel sure that I now have a complete set of special service tools for
the P6/P6B, including the aforementioned "pie cutter" and front
spring
retaining rods. I have yet to catalogue them. None of us will have
regular use for these tools since there is no longer such a thing as a
P6 restoration shop in the western hemisphere, so it seems only fair to
set up a scheme where they can be loaned out for a small fee (and a
large deposit, in case you lose one of them!) The RCCC or some other
individual may have these tools but to split them up or sell them
individually would eliminate the potential for the "lending library"
approach. Is anyone doing this now?
Does this sound interesting? Are you in need of any tool immediately?
Roverevolvingly,
Kent K.
Laine Colley wrote:
> And when you're done repairing the brakes, you can have your personal
> chef make an extra special Roveresque pie with custom fluting on the
> edges with it! lol
>
> Laine
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL:
<http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081001/802a
2647/attachment-0001.html>
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Thu, 02 Oct 2008 01:34:34 +0000
From: slatskars at comcast.net
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Other P6 service tools
To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts."
<rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Message-ID:
<100220080134.18618.48E4252A0006BA65000048BA22007348309C9D0E059C9B0E049C at com
cast.net>
Hi Kent,
What a great idea! It should probably be expanded, to include the other
Rover models also. You know ,like P-4's and P-5's, if special tools are
called for. I have always wondered, just how complicated some of these
"special" tools are and how difficult it would be to manufacture some of
them, if one had a proper drawing. Many manuals have pictures of some of
them, but not very detailed. Although, in some manuals, they even give
dimensions for them. Believe it or not, Porsche is pretty good about this.
Slats
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Kent Kinard <kkinard at att.net>
> Hi All,
> I feel sure that I now have a complete set of special service tools for
> the P6/P6B, including the aforementioned "pie cutter" and front spring
> retaining rods. I have yet to catalogue them. None of us will have
> regular use for these tools since there is no longer such a thing as a
> P6 restoration shop in the western hemisphere, so it seems only fair to
> set up a scheme where they can be loaned out for a small fee (and a
> large deposit, in case you lose one of them!) The RCCC or some other
> individual may have these tools but to split them up or sell them
> individually would eliminate the potential for the "lending library"
> approach. Is anyone doing this now?
>
> Does this sound interesting? Are you in need of any tool immediately?
>
> Roverevolvingly,
> Kent K.
>
> Laine Colley wrote:
> > And when you're done repairing the brakes, you can have your personal
> > chef make an extra special Roveresque pie with custom fluting on the
> > edges with it! lol
> >
> > Laine
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Rovernet mailing list
> > Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or
no-mail:
> > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> > Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> > http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> > Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2008 16:51:14 +1000
From: "Netspace" <vmitps at netspace.net.au>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] brake tool
To: <twinklsun at yahoo.com>, "The original list for Rover car
enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <B3E67FAB1DFC4708B8B3C0859A43865B at VISTA>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Yep. Designed for shredding.
I use a bicycle spoke to pull the lever, works nicely.
Push is finger or screwdriver.
PVS
----- Original Message -----
From: Laine Colley
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2008 2:08 AM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] brake tool
And when you're done repairing the brakes, you can have your
personal chef make an extra special Roveresque pie with custom fluting on
the edges with it! lol
Laine
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL:
<http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081002/bc0f
11d4/attachment-0001.html>
------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2008 13:40:04 +0000
From: Steven Dibdin <sdibdin at hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Other P6 service tools
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
<rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <BAY106-W33B004CDDF42A5956132D9B03D0 at phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Hi Kent,
Brillient idea! I have a couple of special tools for my TC. One is a large
servo wrench for opening the bayonet style vacuum chambers. and an
assortment of turned aluminium coves for making sure I don't damage new
seals when rebuilding master cylinders and rear calipers. (this was because
the bores in question had been re-sleeved and I didn't want the edge of teh
sleeves to damage the new seals).
May be we could all list items that we have and how to make them. My
favourite item is still the right angled 1/4" open ended spanner for the
lock nuts on the SU screws. Life is so much easier with that.
Cheers,
Steven
------------------------------
Message: 7
Date: Thu, 02 Oct 2008 14:29:33 +0000
From: slatskars at comcast.net
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Other P6 service tools
To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts."
<rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Message-ID:
<100220081429.29055.48E4DACD0001A5760000717F22070009539C9D0E059C9B0E049C at com
cast.net>
Hi Steven,
I have two sets of Sears "Craftsman" combination ignition wrenches that I
use when small open or box wrenches are needed. One set is S.A.E. and the
other metric. I have had these for 25 plus years. The sets are eight or nine
wrenches in a small plastic pouch. I don't know it they still carry these or
not, but they are extremely handy to have for small hardware or in tight
places. One set goes from 5/32" to 1/2" and the other goes from 5.5 mm to 13
mm.
Slats
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Steven Dibdin <sdibdin at hotmail.com>
>
> Hi Kent,
>
> Brillient idea! I have a couple of special tools for my TC. One is a large
servo
> wrench for opening the bayonet style vacuum chambers. and an assortment of
> turned aluminium coves for making sure I don't damage new seals when
rebuilding
> master cylinders and rear calipers. (this was because the bores in
question had
> been re-sleeved and I didn't want the edge of teh sleeves to damage the
new
> seals).
>
> May be we could all list items that we have and how to make them. My
favourite
> item is still the right angled 1/4" open ended spanner for the lock nuts
on the
> SU screws. Life is so much easier with that.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Steven
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
------------------------------
Message: 8
Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2008 15:48:51 +0000
From: Steven Dibdin <sdibdin at hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Other P6 service tools
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
<rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <BAY106-W4907C0723A4B4E11549FC1B03D0 at phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Sounds really useful! I made mine with some 1/8" steel on the mill. Then
just a regular nutdriver on screw itself. Not as elegant as the Craftsman
set, but it serves well enough.
------------------------------
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
End of Rovernet Digest, Vol 4, Issue 3
**************************************
From gianluca.ruotolo at enel.it Fri Oct 3 05:47:02 2008
From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.it (gianluca.ruotolo at enel.it)
Date: Fri, 3 Oct 2008 11:47:02 +0200
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] R: Land Rover Bell Auren Longnose
In-Reply-To: <20081003022814.B522880077@emta1.nyc1.bluetie.com>
References: <mailman.13.1222962530.6722.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
<20081003022814.B522880077@emta1.nyc1.bluetie.com>
Message-ID: <AD15D6E6287C7B45BFF991A72C84E38A86C276@E30IYLMJ.risorse.enel>
http://www.lastampa.it/multimedia/multimedia.asp?p=1&pm=&IDmsezione=25&I
Dalbum=12590&tipo=FOTOGALLERY#mpos
Very interesting and unusual.
A Viper - Land Rover!
Best regards, Gianluca.
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or
no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From twinklsun at yahoo.com Fri Oct 3 12:31:28 2008
From: twinklsun at yahoo.com (Laine Colley)
Date: Fri, 3 Oct 2008 09:31:28 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rovernet Digest, Vol 4, Issue 4
In-Reply-To: <mailman.7.1223049607.11808.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <664060.34216.qm@web50503.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
It seems that there should be an estimated value of the tools, find the average and make that amount the deposit for the use of the system. If a tool is lost or needs replacement, the deposit goes towards it. Not that I could use this service, since my car is too classic (read as old), but I still like the idea.
I would gladly bake a pie. Unfortunately I sent all the strawberries with my mother yesterday to be turned into a winter wine. Sorry! Maybe I could share that, but not while you are working on your cars. Then we might end up with Rover pie after all.
Eew.
Laine
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081003/0cdc9f27/attachment.html>
From roverman2 at verizon.net Fri Oct 3 14:30:12 2008
From: roverman2 at verizon.net (Dermot Harvey)
Date: Fri, 03 Oct 2008 14:30:12 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] R: Rear brake retractor tool
In-Reply-To: <AD15D6E6287C7B45BFF991A72C84E38A86C24C@E30IYLMJ.risorse.enel>
References: <BAY106-W258AC0B58E8CC292A11BFDB0430@phx.gbl><05BB196AB3DA6C4BBE11AB6C957581FE10537096@sfo-exch-01.dolby.net>
<BAY106-W34DFD1398D6363C6384CB4B0420@phx.gbl>
<AD15D6E6287C7B45BFF991A72C84E38A86C24C@E30IYLMJ.risorse.enel>
Message-ID: <D73F9871-0349-4C63-8788-8879A0AF5C17@verizon.net>
Hi List,
I do have one of the piston retractor tools, but I don't use it that
much. I have a better tool though! Most, but not all of the spring
metal brake pad retainers (The metal piece that is riveted to the
brake pad piston) have a small hole drilled it them. A cotter pin
removal tool can be used in this hole to rotate the piston until it
is wound back in. On a freshly greased piston this is much quicker
that cranking the special tool around. It is slower and more tricky
is the piston does not move freely.
Dermot Harvey
On Oct 1, 2008, at 11:10 AM, <gianluca.ruotolo at enel.it>
<gianluca.ruotolo at enel.it> wrote:
>
> Please how does it work?
>
> Thanks, gianluca.
>
> -----Messaggio originale-----
> Da: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-
> bounces at rovernet.ca] Per conto di Steven Dibdin
> Inviato: mercoled? 1 ottobre 2008 16.43
> A: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
> Oggetto: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rear brake retractor tool
>
>
>
> Invaluable for working on the rear calipers:
> http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Rover-P6-2000-3500-Rear-Brake-Tool-For-rear-
> pads_W0QQitemZ270279244931QQcmdZViewItem?
> hash=item270279244931&_trkparms=39%3A1|66%3A2|65%3A1|240%
> 3A1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or
> no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or
> no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From rover2000nut at hotmail.com Fri Oct 3 15:05:28 2008
From: rover2000nut at hotmail.com (Bill Robertson)
Date: Fri, 3 Oct 2008 19:05:28 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3500S BW35 ATF fluid
Message-ID: <BAY119-W99921EE3B2609A2EF3380DE3C0@phx.gbl>
Hi all.......
I've got the engine back in the car and most all things back together........i've drained the transmission fluid and was wondering what the proper fluid is that goes in......all UK brands in bokk mean nothing to me at the parts store.............is it Dexron or type F fluid or some other
Thanks
Bill Robertson
_________________________________________________________________
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081003/9a528bee/attachment.html>
From vmitps at netspace.net.au Fri Oct 3 17:43:45 2008
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Sat, 4 Oct 2008 07:43:45 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3500S BW35 ATF fluid
In-Reply-To: <BAY119-W99921EE3B2609A2EF3380DE3C0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY119-W99921EE3B2609A2EF3380DE3C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <92BC2FB0F43B4D3191A72B06876E4D41@VISTA>
Standard is Ford spec from the 1980s fluid.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Robertson
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Sent: Saturday, October 04, 2008 5:05 AM
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3500S BW35 ATF fluid
Hi all.......
I've got the engine back in the car and most all things back together........i've drained the transmission fluid and was wondering what the proper fluid is that goes in......all UK brands in bokk mean nothing to me at the parts store.............is it Dexron or type F fluid or some other
Thanks
Bill Robertson
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Use Windows Live Messenger to send messages to your buddies on their mobile phones Find out more on our PC to Mobile website
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081004/d505f0db/attachment.html>
From griffo at comcast.net Sat Oct 4 18:16:12 2008
From: griffo at comcast.net (Gordon Harrower)
Date: Sat, 04 Oct 2008 18:16:12 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Tool loan library
In-Reply-To: <20081003022814.B522880077@emta1.nyc1.bluetie.com>
References: <20081003022814.B522880077@emta1.nyc1.bluetie.com>
Message-ID: <48E7EB2C.4000003@comcast.net>
I like this idea. I have lots of P6 parts for which I no one's been
willing to pay even a bargain price, and I'd rather see them go to use
than moulder on in perpetuity. Having changed my focus to P5s, I'm all
the more appreciative when one of you guys comes up with a hard-to-find
part.
Dirk Burrowes wrote:
> Hello All,
>
> A tool loan service would be a great idea not only from the benefit of
> having the availability of a special tool but also from the perspective that
> it both motivates one to finish a potentially difficult job without it but
> also solutions are shared.
>
> So why not expand the idea to spares as well? My policy is that if I have a
> part I don't need and someone needs it then I will give it to them.
> (Put aside that I guilt them into coming to my Rover event) So this could be
> a tool loan and a part exchange group with the goal of keeping more cars on
> the road and making a more affordable to do so.
>
> I would like to hear any ideas anyone has that expands on this idea. Or if
> you need something email me and I will do my best to help out.
>
> Let's start with pie being made by Laine loan her the brake tool.
>
> Dirk
> www.roveramerica.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
> Behalf Of rovernet-request at rovernet.ca
> Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2008 11:49 AM
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: Rovernet Digest, Vol 4, Issue 3
>
> Send Rovernet mailing list submissions to
> rovernet at rovernet.ca
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> rovernet-request at rovernet.ca
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> rovernet-owner at rovernet.ca
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Rovernet digest..."
>
>
> Please edit your digest reply by changing the subject line to the topic to
> which you are referring.
>
> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Re: brake tool (Laine Colley)
> 2. Other P6 service tools (Kent Kinard)
> 3. Re: Other P6 service tools library (Pete Holbrook)
> 4. Re: Other P6 service tools (slatskars at comcast.net)
> 5. Re: brake tool (Netspace)
> 6. Re: Other P6 service tools (Steven Dibdin)
> 7. Re: Other P6 service tools (slatskars at comcast.net)
> 8. Re: Other P6 service tools (Steven Dibdin)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2008 09:08:41 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Laine Colley <twinklsun at yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] brake tool
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Message-ID: <969500.11281.qm at web50506.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> And when you're done repairing the brakes, you can have your personal chef
> make an extra special Roveresque pie with custom fluting on the edges with
> it!?? lol
>
> Laine
>
>
>
>
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:
> <http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081001/8836
> 891f/attachment-0001.html>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Wed, 01 Oct 2008 12:15:43 -0500
> From: Kent Kinard <kkinard at att.net>
> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Other P6 service tools
> To: twinklsun at yahoo.com, "The original list for Rover car
> enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Message-ID: <48E3B03F.80401 at att.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> Hi All,
> I feel sure that I now have a complete set of special service tools for
> the P6/P6B, including the aforementioned "pie cutter" and front spring
> retaining rods. I have yet to catalogue them. None of us will have
> regular use for these tools since there is no longer such a thing as a
> P6 restoration shop in the western hemisphere, so it seems only fair to
> set up a scheme where they can be loaned out for a small fee (and a
> large deposit, in case you lose one of them!) The RCCC or some other
> individual may have these tools but to split them up or sell them
> individually would eliminate the potential for the "lending library"
> approach. Is anyone doing this now?
>
> Does this sound interesting? Are you in need of any tool immediately?
>
> Roverevolvingly,
> Kent K.
>
> Laine Colley wrote:
>
>> And when you're done repairing the brakes, you can have your personal
>> chef make an extra special Roveresque pie with custom fluting on the
>> edges with it! lol
>>
>> Laine
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Rovernet mailing list
>> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
>> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
>> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2008 13:03:39 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Pete Holbrook <pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net>
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Other P6 service tools library
> To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts."
> <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Message-ID: <32893.90416.qm at web83007.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Brilliant idea Kent,
> Cheers, Peter
>
> --- On Wed, 10/1/08, Kent Kinard <kkinard at att.net> wrote:
>
> From: Kent Kinard <kkinard at att.net>
> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Other P6 service tools
> To: twinklsun at yahoo.com, "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts."
> <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Date: Wednesday, October 1, 2008, 10:15 AM
>
> Hi All,
> I feel sure that I now have a complete set of special service tools for
> the P6/P6B, including the aforementioned "pie cutter" and front
> spring
> retaining rods. I have yet to catalogue them. None of us will have
> regular use for these tools since there is no longer such a thing as a
> P6 restoration shop in the western hemisphere, so it seems only fair to
> set up a scheme where they can be loaned out for a small fee (and a
> large deposit, in case you lose one of them!) The RCCC or some other
> individual may have these tools but to split them up or sell them
> individually would eliminate the potential for the "lending library"
> approach. Is anyone doing this now?
>
> Does this sound interesting? Are you in need of any tool immediately?
>
> Roverevolvingly,
> Kent K.
>
> Laine Colley wrote:
>
>> And when you're done repairing the brakes, you can have your personal
>> chef make an extra special Roveresque pie with custom fluting on the
>> edges with it! lol
>>
>> Laine
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Rovernet mailing list
>> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
>> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
>> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:
> <http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081001/802a
> 2647/attachment-0001.html>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Thu, 02 Oct 2008 01:34:34 +0000
> From: slatskars at comcast.net
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Other P6 service tools
> To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts."
> <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Message-ID:
>
> <100220080134.18618.48E4252A0006BA65000048BA22007348309C9D0E059C9B0E049C at com
> cast.net>
>
>
> Hi Kent,
>
> What a great idea! It should probably be expanded, to include the other
> Rover models also. You know ,like P-4's and P-5's, if special tools are
> called for. I have always wondered, just how complicated some of these
> "special" tools are and how difficult it would be to manufacture some of
> them, if one had a proper drawing. Many manuals have pictures of some of
> them, but not very detailed. Although, in some manuals, they even give
> dimensions for them. Believe it or not, Porsche is pretty good about this.
>
> Slats
> -------------- Original message ----------------------
> From: Kent Kinard <kkinard at att.net>
>
>> Hi All,
>> I feel sure that I now have a complete set of special service tools for
>> the P6/P6B, including the aforementioned "pie cutter" and front spring
>> retaining rods. I have yet to catalogue them. None of us will have
>> regular use for these tools since there is no longer such a thing as a
>> P6 restoration shop in the western hemisphere, so it seems only fair to
>> set up a scheme where they can be loaned out for a small fee (and a
>> large deposit, in case you lose one of them!) The RCCC or some other
>> individual may have these tools but to split them up or sell them
>> individually would eliminate the potential for the "lending library"
>> approach. Is anyone doing this now?
>>
>> Does this sound interesting? Are you in need of any tool immediately?
>>
>> Roverevolvingly,
>> Kent K.
>>
>> Laine Colley wrote:
>>
>>> And when you're done repairing the brakes, you can have your personal
>>> chef make an extra special Roveresque pie with custom fluting on the
>>> edges with it! lol
>>>
>>> Laine
>>>
>>>
>>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Rovernet mailing list
>>> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
>>> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or
>>>
> no-mail:
>
>>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
>>> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
>>> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
>>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Rovernet mailing list
>> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
>> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
>> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2008 16:51:14 +1000
> From: "Netspace" <vmitps at netspace.net.au>
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] brake tool
> To: <twinklsun at yahoo.com>, "The original list for Rover car
> enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Message-ID: <B3E67FAB1DFC4708B8B3C0859A43865B at VISTA>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> Yep. Designed for shredding.
> I use a bicycle spoke to pull the lever, works nicely.
> Push is finger or screwdriver.
>
> PVS
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Laine Colley
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2008 2:08 AM
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] brake tool
>
>
> And when you're done repairing the brakes, you can have your
> personal chef make an extra special Roveresque pie with custom fluting on
> the edges with it! lol
>
> Laine
>
>
>
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:
> <http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081002/bc0f
> 11d4/attachment-0001.html>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2008 13:40:04 +0000
> From: Steven Dibdin <sdibdin at hotmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Other P6 service tools
> To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
> <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Message-ID: <BAY106-W33B004CDDF42A5956132D9B03D0 at phx.gbl>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
>
> Hi Kent,
>
> Brillient idea! I have a couple of special tools for my TC. One is a large
> servo wrench for opening the bayonet style vacuum chambers. and an
> assortment of turned aluminium coves for making sure I don't damage new
> seals when rebuilding master cylinders and rear calipers. (this was because
> the bores in question had been re-sleeved and I didn't want the edge of teh
> sleeves to damage the new seals).
>
> May be we could all list items that we have and how to make them. My
> favourite item is still the right angled 1/4" open ended spanner for the
> lock nuts on the SU screws. Life is so much easier with that.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Steven
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Thu, 02 Oct 2008 14:29:33 +0000
> From: slatskars at comcast.net
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Other P6 service tools
> To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts."
> <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Message-ID:
>
> <100220081429.29055.48E4DACD0001A5760000717F22070009539C9D0E059C9B0E049C at com
> cast.net>
>
>
> Hi Steven,
>
> I have two sets of Sears "Craftsman" combination ignition wrenches that I
> use when small open or box wrenches are needed. One set is S.A.E. and the
> other metric. I have had these for 25 plus years. The sets are eight or nine
> wrenches in a small plastic pouch. I don't know it they still carry these or
> not, but they are extremely handy to have for small hardware or in tight
> places. One set goes from 5/32" to 1/2" and the other goes from 5.5 mm to 13
> mm.
>
> Slats
>
>
> -------------- Original message ----------------------
> From: Steven Dibdin <sdibdin at hotmail.com>
>
>> Hi Kent,
>>
>> Brillient idea! I have a couple of special tools for my TC. One is a large
>>
> servo
>
>> wrench for opening the bayonet style vacuum chambers. and an assortment of
>>
>
>
>> turned aluminium coves for making sure I don't damage new seals when
>>
> rebuilding
>
>> master cylinders and rear calipers. (this was because the bores in
>>
> question had
>
>> been re-sleeved and I didn't want the edge of teh sleeves to damage the
>>
> new
>
>> seals).
>>
>> May be we could all list items that we have and how to make them. My
>>
> favourite
>
>> item is still the right angled 1/4" open ended spanner for the lock nuts
>>
> on the
>
>> SU screws. Life is so much easier with that.
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Steven
>> _______________________________________________
>> Rovernet mailing list
>> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
>> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
>> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2008 15:48:51 +0000
> From: Steven Dibdin <sdibdin at hotmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Other P6 service tools
> To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
> <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Message-ID: <BAY106-W4907C0723A4B4E11549FC1B03D0 at phx.gbl>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
>
> Sounds really useful! I made mine with some 1/8" steel on the mill. Then
> just a regular nutdriver on screw itself. Not as elegant as the Craftsman
> set, but it serves well enough.
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
> End of Rovernet Digest, Vol 4, Issue 3
> **************************************
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
From MarkCoorparoo at aol.com Sat Oct 4 18:44:23 2008
From: MarkCoorparoo at aol.com (MarkCoorparoo at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 4 Oct 2008 18:44:23 EDT
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3500S BW35 ATF fluid
Message-ID: <c08.49d4b809.36194bc7@aol.com>
Hi All,
Don't use Dexron in Borg 3 speeds. Dex is slippery compared to
Ford type ATF. It is second gear that usually starts to slip first.
Dexron is one of the other reasons that GM Turbo Hydros have such good
shift quality.
Regards,
MWJ.
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081004/0ceb28df/attachment.html>
From lafbery at telus.net Sat Oct 4 20:39:42 2008
From: lafbery at telus.net (Shirley & Barry Lafbery)
Date: Sat, 4 Oct 2008 17:39:42 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3500S BW35 ATF fluid
References: <c08.49d4b809.36194bc7@aol.com>
Message-ID: <002801c92682$db84d790$6400a8c0@Barry>
I used Dexron in my 3500s with a Borgwarner 35 for 10 years with no trouble I sold the car and it's still going strong.
Barry
Hi All,
Don't use Dexron in Borg 3 speeds. Dex is slippery compared to Ford type ATF. It is second gear that usually starts to slip first.
Dexron is one of the other reasons that GM Turbo Hydros have such good shift quality.
Regards,
MWJ.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Internal Virus Database is out of date.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.7.0/1683 - Release Date: 9/21/2008 10:10 AM
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081004/28245ff1/attachment.html>
From vmitps at netspace.net.au Sat Oct 4 21:37:36 2008
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2008 12:37:36 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3500S BW35 ATF fluid
In-Reply-To: <002801c92682$db84d790$6400a8c0@Barry>
References: <c08.49d4b809.36194bc7@aol.com>
<002801c92682$db84d790$6400a8c0@Barry>
Message-ID: <1DDE28BB2045472FAA62677EEBDB6905@VISTA>
It depends if the plates have been relined with GM spec material. If they have, use Dexron 3.
I found this out when had trans rebuilt.
PVS
----- Original Message -----
From: Shirley & Barry Lafbery
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
Sent: Sunday, October 05, 2008 11:39 AM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3500S BW35 ATF fluid
I used Dexron in my 3500s with a Borgwarner 35 for 10 years with no trouble I sold the car and it's still going strong.
Barry
Hi All,
Don't use Dexron in Borg 3 speeds. Dex is slippery compared to Ford type ATF. It is second gear that usually starts to slip first.
Dexron is one of the other reasons that GM Turbo Hydros have such good shift quality.
Regards,
MWJ.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Internal Virus Database is out of date.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.7.0/1683 - Release Date: 9/21/2008 10:10 AM
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081005/163399b9/attachment-0001.html>
From djianu at yahoo.com Mon Oct 6 14:16:12 2008
From: djianu at yahoo.com (Dan Jianu)
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2008 11:16:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Land Rover question
Message-ID: <946572.87136.qm@web38106.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Hi guys,
Can I determine the year of my car based on the registration number? I have an old Land Rover, but i can't figure out how old it is. It belongs to my father in law and he only remembers buying it sometimes in the 80's but i think it goes back even longer. The registration number is
SAALLBCAH2AA240725. Anyone has any ideas how to proceed?
Thanks much,
Daniel
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081006/6c087fcb/attachment.html>
From sdibdin at hotmail.com Mon Oct 6 14:23:01 2008
From: sdibdin at hotmail.com (Steven Dibdin)
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2008 18:23:01 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Land Rover question
In-Reply-To: <946572.87136.qm@web38106.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <946572.87136.qm@web38106.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BAY106-W526279D6205DF3F3A3FD84B0390@phx.gbl>
Hi Daniel,
Checck this hand de-coder on Wikipedia:
http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Vehicle_Identification_Numbers_(VIN_codes)/Land_Rover/VIN_Codes
________________________________
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2008 11:16:12 -0700
From: djianu at yahoo.com
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Land Rover question
Hi guys,
Can I determine the year of my car based on the registration number? I have an old Land Rover, but i can't figure out how old it is. It belongs to my father in law and he only remembers buying it sometimes in the 80's but i think it goes back even longer. The registration number is
SAALLBCAH2AA240725. Anyone has any ideas how to proceed?
Thanks much,
Daniel
From sdibdin at hotmail.com Mon Oct 6 14:30:04 2008
From: sdibdin at hotmail.com (Steven Dibdin)
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2008 18:30:04 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Land Rover question
In-Reply-To: <BAY106-W526279D6205DF3F3A3FD84B0390@phx.gbl>
References: <946572.87136.qm@web38106.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
<BAY106-W526279D6205DF3F3A3FD84B0390@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BAY106-W54DB97404ECEF841B76A2EB0390@phx.gbl>
Hi Daniel, (again!)
Here you go:
SAL Manufacturer code: Land Rover
LB Model: Series III (for early models: Stage One)
C Wheel base: 109 inch (LWB)
A Body type: 2-door: Pickup, hood cab, truck cab, or soft/hard top
H Engine type: 2.25 litre petrol
2 Steering and transmission: Left-hand drive (LHD), 4-speed manual (LT95, or other)
A Model year: 1979 to 1987 (All models)
A Assembly location: Solihull, UK
240725 Serial number
Unfortunately it doesn't zero in on the exact year, but you may be able to find it through the British Motor Heritage website. (http://www.heritage-motor-centre.co.uk/shop/heritage-certificates/index.html)
Also, did you have an extra 'A' at the beginning by accident?
Cheers,
Steven
From djianu at yahoo.com Mon Oct 6 14:47:22 2008
From: djianu at yahoo.com (Dan Jianu)
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2008 11:47:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Land Rover question
Message-ID: <371505.36473.qm@web38103.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Hi Steven,
Thanks much..this is great...
Yes, I made a mistake..it's only one A. Am a bit dissapointed as I was hoping to be a bit older...like from the 60s...anyway, thanks much.
daniel
----- Original Message ----
From: Steven Dibdin <sdibdin at hotmail.com>
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts. <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Monday, October 6, 2008 9:30:04 PM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Land Rover question
Hi Daniel, (again!)
Here you go:
SAL Manufacturer code: Land Rover
LB Model: Series III (for early models: Stage One)
C Wheel base: 109 inch (LWB)
A Body type: 2-door: Pickup, hood cab, truck cab, or soft/hard top
H Engine type: 2.25 litre petrol
2 Steering and transmission: Left-hand drive (LHD), 4-speed manual (LT95, or other)
A Model year: 1979 to 1987 (All models)
A Assembly location: Solihull, UK
240725 Serial number
Unfortunately it doesn't zero in on the exact year, but you may be able to find it through the British Motor Heritage website. (http://www.heritage-motor-centre.co.uk/shop/heritage-certificates/index.html)
Also, did you have an extra 'A' at the beginning by accident?
Cheers,
Steven
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081006/3d6a566d/attachment.html>
From geffandjulie at comcast.net Mon Oct 6 16:37:16 2008
From: geffandjulie at comcast.net (Geff McCarthy)
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2008 13:37:16 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Other P6 service tools
In-Reply-To: <48E3B03F.80401@att.net>
References: <969500.11281.qm@web50506.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
<48E3B03F.80401@att.net>
Message-ID: <000c01c927f3$52ed4f30$f8c7ed90$@net>
I purchased a nearly complete set of P6 tools from a former dealer in Rhode
Island about 10y ago. I did not purchase the carb balancer, but now wish I
had!
I have loaned the spring retaining rods, and would do so again.
AvMedSafe
Geff and Julie McCarthy
677 NW Melinda Ave
Portland OR 97210
503-241-8468
503-799-3809 mobile
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Kent Kinard
Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2008 10:16 AM
To: twinklsun at yahoo.com; The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Other P6 service tools
Hi All,
I feel sure that I now have a complete set of special service tools for
the P6/P6B, including the aforementioned "pie cutter" and front spring
retaining rods. I have yet to catalogue them. None of us will have
regular use for these tools since there is no longer such a thing as a
P6 restoration shop in the western hemisphere, so it seems only fair to
set up a scheme where they can be loaned out for a small fee (and a
large deposit, in case you lose one of them!) The RCCC or some other
individual may have these tools but to split them up or sell them
individually would eliminate the potential for the "lending library"
approach. Is anyone doing this now?
Does this sound interesting? Are you in need of any tool immediately?
Roverevolvingly,
Kent K.
Laine Colley wrote:
> And when you're done repairing the brakes, you can have your personal
> chef make an extra special Roveresque pie with custom fluting on the
> edges with it! lol
>
> Laine
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From geffandjulie at comcast.net Mon Oct 6 16:38:07 2008
From: geffandjulie at comcast.net (Geff McCarthy)
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2008 13:38:07 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] R: R: Rear brake retractor tool
In-Reply-To: <AD15D6E6287C7B45BFF991A72C84E38A86C24E@E30IYLMJ.risorse.enel>
References: <BAY106-W258AC0B58E8CC292A11BFDB0430@phx.gbl><05BB196AB3DA6C4BBE11AB6C957581FE10537096@sfo-exch-01.dolby.net><BAY106-W34DFD1398D6363C6384CB4B0420@phx.gbl> <AD15D6E6287C7B45BFF991A72C84E38A86C24C@E30IYLMJ.risorse.enel> <BAY106-W36535650FA9C296A4594EDB0420@phx.gbl>
<AD15D6E6287C7B45BFF991A72C84E38A86C24E@E30IYLMJ.risorse.enel>
Message-ID: <000d01c927f3$7125f920$5371eb60$@net>
I have rewound them, but I have small hands, and used leather gloves!
AvMedSafe
Geff and Julie McCarthy
677 NW Melinda Ave
Portland OR 97210
503-241-8468
503-799-3809 mobile
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of gianluca.ruotolo at enel.it
Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2008 8:33 AM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] R: R: Rear brake retractor tool
Very kind of you.
I will necver do it on my own!
Best regards, Gianluca.
-----Messaggio originale-----
Da: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] Per
conto di Steven Dibdin
Inviato: mercoled? 1 ottobre 2008 17.16
A: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
Oggetto: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] R: Rear brake retractor tool
When you replace the pads on the rear calipers you have to wind the piston
backinto the caliper. This is not easy to do if you have regular sized
fingers. The tool slides into the gap left by the pads and will let you wind
the piston back without you cutting your fingers to shreds.
Hope that's clear?
StevenD
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From slatskars at comcast.net Mon Oct 6 18:56:58 2008
From: slatskars at comcast.net (slatskars at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2008 22:56:58 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Other P6 service tools
Message-ID: <100620082256.4840.48EA97BA0008E54B000012E822058891169C9D0E059C9B0E049C@comcast.net>
Geff,
I have a Uni-syn that you can borrow any time.
Slats
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Geff McCarthy" <geffandjulie at comcast.net>
> I purchased a nearly complete set of P6 tools from a former dealer in Rhode
> Island about 10y ago. I did not purchase the carb balancer, but now wish I
> had!
> I have loaned the spring retaining rods, and would do so again.
>
> AvMedSafe
> Geff and Julie McCarthy
> 677 NW Melinda Ave
> Portland OR 97210
> 503-241-8468
> 503-799-3809 mobile
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
> Behalf Of Kent Kinard
> Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2008 10:16 AM
> To: twinklsun at yahoo.com; The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Other P6 service tools
>
> Hi All,
> I feel sure that I now have a complete set of special service tools for
> the P6/P6B, including the aforementioned "pie cutter" and front spring
> retaining rods. I have yet to catalogue them. None of us will have
> regular use for these tools since there is no longer such a thing as a
> P6 restoration shop in the western hemisphere, so it seems only fair to
> set up a scheme where they can be loaned out for a small fee (and a
> large deposit, in case you lose one of them!) The RCCC or some other
> individual may have these tools but to split them up or sell them
> individually would eliminate the potential for the "lending library"
> approach. Is anyone doing this now?
>
> Does this sound interesting? Are you in need of any tool immediately?
>
> Roverevolvingly,
> Kent K.
>
> Laine Colley wrote:
> > And when you're done repairing the brakes, you can have your personal
> > chef make an extra special Roveresque pie with custom fluting on the
> > edges with it! lol
> >
> > Laine
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Rovernet mailing list
> > Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> > Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> > http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> > Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From smokeandsteam at gmail.com Mon Oct 6 19:56:15 2008
From: smokeandsteam at gmail.com (Aidrian Bridgeman-Sutton)
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2008 16:56:15 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Land Rover question
In-Reply-To: <371505.36473.qm@web38103.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <371505.36473.qm@web38103.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <204ec4390810061656kb7474ak679bd59b9c059729@mail.gmail.com>
Series 3 didn't start until 1971 or thereabouts and 17 Digit VINs
didn't come in until about 1979 so this would date it between 1979
and I think 1985 when this version was retired in favour of the 90 and
110 coil-sprung trucks.
( I know that Steve's source gives 1987, but to the best of my
knowledge Series 3 production ended with the introduction of the 90 in
1985, though perhaps some overseas markets still had some CKD Series
3s in the pipeline at that date)
Aidrian
<djianu at yahoo.com> wrote:
>> Yes, I made a mistake..it's only one A. Am a bit dissapointed as I was
> hoping to be a bit older...like from the 60s...anyway, thanks much.
> daniel
>
From slatskars at comcast.net Tue Oct 7 00:46:27 2008
From: slatskars at comcast.net (slatskars at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 07 Oct 2008 04:46:27 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Tools
Message-ID: <100720080446.17294.48EAE9A3000D34AD0000438E22007348309C9D0E059C9B0E049C@comcast.net>
As we were discussing tools recently, I thouhgt that I would send out a litttle reminder to those of you that have access to a Harbor Freight store, that there is a cupon book sale begining on Oct. 8. this runs through until the 26th. There are two items that I have that are extremely useful, in this cupon book. There are both LED lights. One is a
re-chargable worklight, with a magnetic base, plus a top hook and two other hooks for horizontal use. It has two light levels, bright and very bright. really it is a very useful tool to carry along or to use in the shop. It is normally 29.95, but the sale price is 19.95. The other one is a very light weight headband lamp with five LED's, that uses three AAA cells. It is so light that it feels about like wearing a baseball cap. Very useful when under the car or when you need both hands free under the hood. Normally 5.99, on sale for 3.99. this is the end of my public service anouncement. No, I do not own any Harbor Freight stock. There is none, darn it! If there were I would buy it!m Just a tool freak, that wants to share a good thing.
Slats
From flemna at yahoo.ca Tue Oct 7 21:11:02 2008
From: flemna at yahoo.ca (Fred Lemna)
Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2008 18:11:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Flywheel Ring Gear for Mark
III/P5...(automatic/BW 35)
Message-ID: <504799.65487.qm@web38502.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
The ring gear for the Mark III fits both manual and automatic transmissions.? (#550068)
The flywheel assemblies are the same for all P5 variants, but the ring gear part # is different for the Mark 1A/II.
My Mark III ring gear has a broken tooth...welding an option but not best solution...
Any suggestions for replacements?
__________________________________________________________________
Instant Messaging, free SMS, sharing photos and more... Try the new Yahoo! Canada Messenger at http://ca.beta.messenger.yahoo.com/
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081007/c8d0aa16/attachment.html>
From rover2000nut at hotmail.com Thu Oct 9 18:18:51 2008
From: rover2000nut at hotmail.com (Bill Robertson)
Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2008 22:18:51 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Starter solenoid
Message-ID: <BAY119-W50B245045C68EC52AD29E0DE3A0@phx.gbl>
Hi all.......
I have got a new gear reduction starter for my 3500S........a lot lighter .......the original starter has 2 wires on the solenoid that attach to the spade connectors and the big battery wire.......the new starter only has one wire for the spade connector..........Obviously the one is the live feed from the ignition switch(key on) what does the other do and what do i connect it to since there is no connection at the solenoid........
Thanks
Bill Robertson
_________________________________________________________________
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081009/fd7d4fa3/attachment.html>
From slatskars at comcast.net Thu Oct 9 19:03:20 2008
From: slatskars at comcast.net (slatskars at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 09 Oct 2008 23:03:20 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Starter solenoid
Message-ID: <100920082303.3674.48EE8DB800064F8300000E5A22007358349C9D0E059C9B0E049C@comcast.net>
What color are the wires? White with a brown tracer goes to the starter relay. Brown is a hot wire and normally would go to the ignition coil and several other components. The solinoid is used as a buss connection sometimes. Check the wiring diagram for that particular vehicle if you have one.
Slats
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Bill Robertson <rover2000nut at hotmail.com>
>
> Hi all.......
> I have got a new gear reduction starter for my 3500S........a lot
> lighter .......the original starter has 2 wires on the solenoid that attach to
> the spade connectors and the big battery wire.......the new starter only has one
> wire for the spade connector..........Obviously the one is the live feed from
> the ignition switch(key on) what does the other do and what do i connect
> it to since there is no connection at the solenoid........
> Thanks
> Bill Robertson
> _________________________________________________________________
>
>
-------------- next part --------------
An embedded message was scrubbed...
From: Bill Robertson <rover2000nut at hotmail.com>
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Starter solenoid
Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2008 22:19:16 +0000
Size: 2988
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081009/3cb2aca9/attachment.mht>
From roger.matheson at bigpond.com Fri Oct 10 05:36:32 2008
From: roger.matheson at bigpond.com (roger.matheson at bigpond.com)
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2008 19:36:32 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Finding TDC on a 2000TC
Message-ID: <18833670.1223631392772.JavaMail.root@nschwwebs03p>
Hi esteemed and expert all
I have just acquired a 1971 2000TC, which I am very pleased with, except..... There are the usual timing marks on the crankshaft pulley, but the pointer that is supposed to line up with the timing marks is an extended bolt off the water pump casing. This is at leat 40 cm above the pulley which means that I cannot get an accurate fix on the timing with my strobe because moving my head even marginally left to right changes the line up of the mark on the pointer.
I can make a pointer immediately adjacent to the pulley, but how to find the precise position of TDC???. I have explored the flywheel and can only find the EP marks and the locking pin arrangement for when the head is removed and the flywheel and the cam chain are locked. I have a dial gauge and could find TDC if I removed the head and measured off a piston, but I would like to avoid major surgery if possible. Is there another way???. For example does a peak opening of a valve (that can be found with a dial gauge) correspond to TDC, especially if I adjust out slack in cam chain with the tappet cover off?
I can set the timing just short of pinging by trial and error and set the marks but Australian unleaded fuel leaves a lot to be desired comprising molasses, kerosene, ethanol and boiled down (distilled) old car enthusiasts.
Some examination of the block suggests that the required pointer was never in place though it is possible that it broke off at some stage and therefore can be replaced.
All suggestions gratefully received. Greetings from Oz
Roger Matheson
From magnet at roverclub.org Fri Oct 10 08:05:58 2008
From: magnet at roverclub.org (Magnet)
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2008 08:05:58 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Starter solenoid
In-Reply-To: <BAY119-W50B245045C68EC52AD29E0DE3A0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY119-W50B245045C68EC52AD29E0DE3A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP13E5515E4DAF329457F80A91350@phx.gbl>
Hi Bill,
The other wire from the starter takes +12v directly to the coil while
the starter is cranking, bypassing the ballast resistor. This is to
ensure that the coil still gets a good voltage in spite of the system
voltage drop due to the load of the starter.
You could arrange a relay to do the same thing, in the absence of a
terminal on the starter.
BTW, it would be interesting to know how that new starter fits. The
solenoid on a P6B starter is at the bottom, to clear the side of the
engine bay. Most other Rover V-8 starters (e.g., for an SD-1 or a Range
Rover) have the solenoid on the side, and are therefore too "wide" for
the space.
If yours has the solenoid on the bottom, I'd be interested to know what
make/model it is and where you got it.
Cheers,
-- Bill Daddis
====================
Bill Robertson wrote:
> Hi all.......
> I have got a new gear reduction starter for my
> 3500S........a lot lighter .......the original starter has 2 wires on
> the solenoid that attach to the spade connectors and the big battery
> wire.......the new starter only has one wire for the spade
> connector..........Obviously the one is the live feed from
> the ignition switch(key on) what does the other do and what do
> i connect it to since there is no connection at the solenoid........
> Thanks
> Bill Robertson
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Upgrade to Hotmail Plus and share more photos with bigger attachments.
> Click here to find out how Click here to find out how
> <http://get.live.com/en-ca/mailplus/features>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From sdibdin at hotmail.com Fri Oct 10 11:36:25 2008
From: sdibdin at hotmail.com (Steven Dibdin)
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2008 15:36:25 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Finding TDC on a 2000TC
In-Reply-To: <18833670.1223631392772.JavaMail.root@nschwwebs03p>
References: <18833670.1223631392772.JavaMail.root@nschwwebs03p>
Message-ID: <BAY106-W4C98509A831077C280B95B0350@phx.gbl>
Hi Roger,
There should be a timing mark on the flywheel. You will find a rectanglar cover on the top right side of the bell housing. On left hand drive cars it's just below the windscreen washer bottle towards the center of the car. Once you remove the cover you will find a pointer inside the bell housing and a mark on the side of the flywheel, just next to the ring gear teeth. Hopefully that should get you where you need to be.
My car is a series 1 I'm guessing yours is a series 2 so it may be different on yours. But I doubt it.
Hope that helps,
StevenD
From fjcumberland at yahoo.com Fri Oct 10 11:45:16 2008
From: fjcumberland at yahoo.com (Jim Cumberland)
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2008 08:45:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Finding TDC on a 2000TC
Message-ID: <518083.12161.qm@web34208.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Mine is a series II 2000 TC - Steve is spot on re location. It's even easy to see (unlike, say, on a Mini . . .. . ).
Good luck!
Jim
Original Message ----
From: Steven Dibdin <sdibdin at hotmail.com>
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts. <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Friday, October 10, 2008 11:36:25 AM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Finding TDC on a 2000TC
Hi Roger,
There should be a timing mark on the flywheel. You will find a rectanglar cover on the top right side of the bell housing. On left hand drive cars it's just below the windscreen washer bottle towards the center of the car. Once you remove the cover you will find a pointer inside the bell housing and a mark on the side of the flywheel, just next to the ring gear teeth. Hopefully that should get you where you need to be.
My car is a series 1 I'm guessing yours is a series 2 so it may be different on yours. But I doubt it.
Hope that helps,
StevenD
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081010/5067e577/attachment.html>
From rover2000nut at hotmail.com Fri Oct 10 15:05:02 2008
From: rover2000nut at hotmail.com (Bill Robertson)
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2008 19:05:02 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] gear reduction starter
Message-ID: <BAY119-W48D2EF55B508718D59F88CDE350@phx.gbl>
The white/brown and white/ purple go to the starter and although electrical work and diagram is chinese to me ...it looks like the white brown goes from the solenoid to the inhibitor switch to the ignition switch............the white purple goes from the solenoid to the coil. is this correct.....I'm looking at the 3500S wiring diagram on pg 65 of section Q in the Rover 3500/3500S Workshop manual
I'm assuming that it is the white brown will go to the single spade connector on the new starter solenoid .............what do i do with the white purple though.........do i run a line from it to somewhere else like the coil or what do i do with it
Aside to Bill Daddis ....it is on the bottom like the original yet took a few hours to install as it bolts where the tranny lines run etc and has little clearance ......it uses studs and not the original bolts as they would not go in or clear the housing...........
Thanks
Bill Robertson
_________________________________________________________________
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081010/758de1f1/attachment.html>
From vmitps at netspace.net.au Fri Oct 10 17:02:07 2008
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2008 08:02:07 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] gear reduction starter
In-Reply-To: <BAY119-W48D2EF55B508718D59F88CDE350@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY119-W48D2EF55B508718D59F88CDE350@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <34F197D6BEB14A5B8D0E8A5590D17410@VISTA>
Little clearance? On a P6? NEVER!
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Robertson
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Sent: Saturday, October 11, 2008 6:05 AM
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] gear reduction starter
The white/brown and white/ purple go to the starter and although electrical work and diagram is chinese to me ...it looks like the white brown goes from the solenoid to the inhibitor switch to the ignition switch............the white purple goes from the solenoid to the coil. is this correct.....I'm looking at the 3500S wiring diagram on pg 65 of section Q in the Rover 3500/3500S Workshop manual
I'm assuming that it is the white brown will go to the single spade connector on the new starter solenoid .............what do i do with the white purple though.........do i run a line from it to somewhere else like the coil or what do i do with it
Aside to Bill Daddis ....it is on the bottom like the original yet took a few hours to install as it bolts where the tranny lines run etc and has little clearance ......it uses studs and not the original bolts as they would not go in or clear the housing...........
Thanks
Bill Robertson
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Get your information fix on your phone. With MSN Mobile you get regular news, sports and finance updates. Try it today!
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081011/90caea5d/attachment.html>
From slatskars at comcast.net Fri Oct 10 18:04:01 2008
From: slatskars at comcast.net (slatskars at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2008 22:04:01 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] gear reduction starter
Message-ID: <101020082204.7477.48EFD1510008A2A400001D3522007507449C9D0E059C9B0E049C@comcast.net>
Bill,
I do not have your wiring diagram, in fact I am working from MGB diagrams, but the color codes are pretty standard for Lucas systems. It sound sto me like you need a piggy-back adaptor to put both wires on the same terminal in order to suppy 12 volts to the coil while the starter is engaged. This would bypass the ballast resistor.
Slats
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Bill Robertson <rover2000nut at hotmail.com>
>
> The white/brown and white/ purple go to the starter and although electrical work
> and diagram is chinese to me ...it looks like the white brown goes from the
> solenoid to the inhibitor switch to the ignition switch............the white
> purple goes from the solenoid to the coil. is this correct.....I'm looking at
> the 3500S wiring diagram on pg 65 of section Q in the Rover 3500/3500S Workshop
> manual
>
> I'm assuming that it is the white brown will go to the single spade connector on
> the new starter solenoid .............what do i do with the white purple
> though.........do i run a line from it to somewhere else like the coil or what
> do i do with it
>
> Aside to Bill Daddis ....it is on the bottom like the original yet took a few
> hours to install as it bolts where the tranny lines run etc and has little
> clearance ......it uses studs and not the original bolts as they would not go in
> or clear the housing...........
>
> Thanks
> Bill Robertson
> _________________________________________________________________
>
>
-------------- next part --------------
An embedded message was scrubbed...
From: Bill Robertson <rover2000nut at hotmail.com>
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] gear reduction starter
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2008 19:05:27 +0000
Size: 3809
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081010/796d8065/attachment.mht>
From magnet at roverclub.org Fri Oct 10 19:16:16 2008
From: magnet at roverclub.org (Magnet)
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2008 19:16:16 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] gear reduction starter
In-Reply-To: <101020082204.7477.48EFD1510008A2A400001D3522007507449C9D0E059C9B0E049C@comcast.net>
References: <101020082204.7477.48EFD1510008A2A400001D3522007507449C9D0E059C9B0E049C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP42B3886D13B171C797E0991350@phx.gbl>
Hi Bill,
I don't think you want to bridge the two wires (white/brown and
white/purple) together -- that way, when the engine is running, you'd be
feeding the 8 volts or so delivered to the coil through the ballast
resistor back to the solenoid's energizing coil. I don't know if this
would be enough to cause the solenoid to pull in, but it sure would draw
more current through the ballast resistor than it's designed to handle,
likewise the ignition switch, etc., and would cause a lower than needed
voltage to be available to the coil.
A little relay wired with its operating coil connected to the solenoid
winding terminal on the starter (white/brown), and one of its "slave"
contacts connected to the battery lead to the starter and the other to
the white/purple wire that goes to the coil should do the trick. You
could of course simply leave the white/purple wire disconnected. You'd
lose the benefit of the higher coil voltage for starting this way, but
I suspect the engine would start regardless, if the rest of the
ignition is in good nick.
Cheers,
-- BD
slatskars at comcast.net wrote:
> Bill,
>
> I do not have your wiring diagram, in fact I am working from MGB diagrams, but the color codes are pretty standard for Lucas systems. It sound sto me like you need a piggy-back adaptor to put both wires on the same terminal in order to suppy 12 volts to the coil while the starter is engaged. This would bypass the ballast resistor.
>
> Slats
> -------------- Original message ----------------------
> From: Bill Robertson <rover2000nut at hotmail.com>
>
>> The white/brown and white/ purple go to the starter and although electrical work
>> and diagram is chinese to me ...it looks like the white brown goes from the
>> solenoid to the inhibitor switch to the ignition switch............the white
>> purple goes from the solenoid to the coil. is this correct.....I'm looking at
>> the 3500S wiring diagram on pg 65 of section Q in the Rover 3500/3500S Workshop
>> manual
>>
>> I'm assuming that it is the white brown will go to the single spade connector on
>> the new starter solenoid .............what do i do with the white purple
>> though.........do i run a line from it to somewhere else like the coil or what
>> do i do with it
>>
>> Aside to Bill Daddis ....it is on the bottom like the original yet took a few
>> hours to install as it bolts where the tranny lines run etc and has little
>> clearance ......it uses studs and not the original bolts as they would not go in
>> or clear the housing...........
>>
>> Thanks
>> Bill Robertson
>> _________________________________________________________________
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Subject:
> [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] gear reduction starter
> From:
> Bill Robertson <rover2000nut at hotmail.com>
> Date:
> Fri, 10 Oct 2008 19:05:27 +0000
> To:
> <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
>
> To:
> <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
>
> Content-Type:
> Multipart/mixed; boundary="NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_7477_1223676241_1"
>
>
> The white/brown and white/ purple go to the starter and although
> electrical work and diagram is chinese to me ...it looks like the
> white brown goes from the solenoid to the inhibitor switch to the
> ignition switch............the white purple goes from the solenoid to
> the coil. is this correct.....I'm looking at the 3500S wiring
> diagram on pg 65 of section Q in the Rover 3500/3500S Workshop manual
>
> I'm assuming that it is the white brown will go to the single spade
> connector on the new starter solenoid .............what do i do with
> the white purple though.........do i run a line from it to somewhere
> else like the coil or what do i do with it
>
> Aside to Bill Daddis ....it is on the bottom like the original yet
> took a few hours to install as it bolts where the tranny lines run etc
> and has little clearance ......it uses studs and not the original
> bolts as they would not go in or clear the housing...........
>
> Thanks
> Bill Robertson
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Get your information fix on your phone. With MSN Mobile you get
> regular news, sports and finance updates. Try it today!
> <http://www.msnmobile.ca>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From vmitps at netspace.net.au Fri Oct 10 19:40:15 2008
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2008 10:40:15 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] gear reduction starter
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP42B3886D13B171C797E0991350@phx.gbl>
References: <101020082204.7477.48EFD1510008A2A400001D3522007507449C9D0E059C9B0E049C@comcast.net>
<BLU0-SMTP42B3886D13B171C797E0991350@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <7B5106E9DB3A40229BD776B470A42156@VISTA>
I fit a relay and ballasted coils to P6s let alone P6Bs to improve the
starting.
I'd say go with the relay.
PVS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Magnet" <magnet at roverclub.org>
To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Saturday, October 11, 2008 10:16 AM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] gear reduction starter
>
>
> Hi Bill,
>
> I don't think you want to bridge the two wires (white/brown and
> white/purple) together -- that way, when the engine is running, you'd be
> feeding the 8 volts or so delivered to the coil through the ballast
> resistor back to the solenoid's energizing coil. I don't know if this
> would be enough to cause the solenoid to pull in, but it sure would draw
> more current through the ballast resistor than it's designed to handle,
> likewise the ignition switch, etc., and would cause a lower than needed
> voltage to be available to the coil.
>
> A little relay wired with its operating coil connected to the solenoid
> winding terminal on the starter (white/brown), and one of its "slave"
> contacts connected to the battery lead to the starter and the other to the
> white/purple wire that goes to the coil should do the trick. You could
> of course simply leave the white/purple wire disconnected. You'd lose the
> benefit of the higher coil voltage for starting this way, but I suspect
> the engine would start regardless, if the rest of the ignition is in
> good nick.
>
> Cheers,
>
> -- BD
>
>
>
> slatskars at comcast.net wrote:
>> Bill,
>>
>> I do not have your wiring diagram, in fact I am working from MGB
>> diagrams, but the color codes are pretty standard for Lucas systems. It
>> sound sto me like you need a piggy-back adaptor to put both wires on the
>> same terminal in order to suppy 12 volts to the coil while the starter is
>> engaged. This would bypass the ballast resistor.
>>
>> Slats
>> -------------- Original message ----------------------
>> From: Bill Robertson <rover2000nut at hotmail.com>
>>
>>> The white/brown and white/ purple go to the starter and although
>>> electrical work and diagram is chinese to me ...it looks like the white
>>> brown goes from the solenoid to the inhibitor switch to the ignition
>>> switch............the white purple goes from the solenoid to the coil.
>>> is this correct.....I'm looking at the 3500S wiring diagram on pg 65 of
>>> section Q in the Rover 3500/3500S Workshop manual
>>> I'm assuming that it is the white brown will go to the single spade
>>> connector on the new starter solenoid .............what do i do with the
>>> white purple though.........do i run a line from it to somewhere else
>>> like the coil or what do i do with it
>>> Aside to Bill Daddis ....it is on the bottom like the original yet took
>>> a few hours to install as it bolts where the tranny lines run etc and
>>> has little clearance ......it uses studs and not the original bolts as
>>> they would not go in or clear the housing...........
>>> Thanks
>>> Bill Robertson
>>> _________________________________________________________________
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>> Subject:
>> [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] gear reduction starter
>> From:
>> Bill Robertson <rover2000nut at hotmail.com>
>> Date:
>> Fri, 10 Oct 2008 19:05:27 +0000
>> To:
>> <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
>>
>> To:
>> <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
>>
>> Content-Type:
>> Multipart/mixed; boundary="NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_7477_1223676241_1"
>>
>>
>> The white/brown and white/ purple go to the starter and although
>> electrical work and diagram is chinese to me ...it looks like the white
>> brown goes from the solenoid to the inhibitor switch to the ignition
>> switch............the white purple goes from the solenoid to the coil.
>> is this correct.....I'm looking at the 3500S wiring diagram on pg 65 of
>> section Q in the Rover 3500/3500S Workshop manual
>> I'm assuming that it is the white brown will go to the single spade
>> connector on the new starter solenoid .............what do i do with the
>> white purple though.........do i run a line from it to somewhere else
>> like the coil or what do i do with it
>> Aside to Bill Daddis ....it is on the bottom like the original yet took
>> a few hours to install as it bolts where the tranny lines run etc and has
>> little clearance ......it uses studs and not the original bolts as they
>> would not go in or clear the housing...........
>> Thanks
>> Bill Robertson
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> Get your information fix on your phone. With MSN Mobile you get regular
>> news, sports and finance updates. Try it today!
>> <http://www.msnmobile.ca>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Rovernet mailing list
>> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or
>> no-mail:
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
>> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
>> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Rovernet mailing list
>> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or
>> no-mail:
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
>> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
>> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From ABoasberg at webtv.net Fri Oct 10 23:32:19 2008
From: ABoasberg at webtv.net (Albert Boasberg)
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2008 20:32:19 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] De Dion Boot
In-Reply-To: Bill Robertson <rover2000nut@hotmail.com>'s message of Thu, 9
Oct 2008 22:18:51 +0000
Message-ID: <2992-48F01E43-722@storefull-3112.bay.webtv.net>
Looking for a De Dion boot for my 1969 Rover TC 2000.
Thanks.
Albert
From vmitps at netspace.net.au Fri Oct 10 23:57:14 2008
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2008 14:57:14 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] De Dion Boot
In-Reply-To: <2992-48F01E43-722@storefull-3112.bay.webtv.net>
References: <2992-48F01E43-722@storefull-3112.bay.webtv.net>
Message-ID: <D5CA2291A7914BE682DB9A9DEB124802@VISTA>
Scott has them.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Albert Boasberg" <ABoasberg at webtv.net>
To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Saturday, October 11, 2008 2:32 PM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] De Dion Boot
> Looking for a De Dion boot for my 1969 Rover TC 2000.
>
> Thanks.
> Albert
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From slatskars at comcast.net Sat Oct 11 00:30:30 2008
From: slatskars at comcast.net (slatskars at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2008 04:30:30 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] gear reduction starter
Message-ID: <101120080430.14508.48F02BE6000502BA000038AC22058891169C9D0E059C9B0E049C@comcast.net>
Gee, and all this time I thought that the starter solinoid relay was a relay???
Slats
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Netspace" <vmitps at netspace.net.au>
> I fit a relay and ballasted coils to P6s let alone P6Bs to improve the
> starting.
> I'd say go with the relay.
>
> PVS
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Magnet" <magnet at roverclub.org>
> To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Sent: Saturday, October 11, 2008 10:16 AM
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] gear reduction starter
>
>
> >
> >
> > Hi Bill,
> >
> > I don't think you want to bridge the two wires (white/brown and
> > white/purple) together -- that way, when the engine is running, you'd be
> > feeding the 8 volts or so delivered to the coil through the ballast
> > resistor back to the solenoid's energizing coil. I don't know if this
> > would be enough to cause the solenoid to pull in, but it sure would draw
> > more current through the ballast resistor than it's designed to handle,
> > likewise the ignition switch, etc., and would cause a lower than needed
> > voltage to be available to the coil.
> >
> > A little relay wired with its operating coil connected to the solenoid
> > winding terminal on the starter (white/brown), and one of its "slave"
> > contacts connected to the battery lead to the starter and the other to the
> > white/purple wire that goes to the coil should do the trick. You could
> > of course simply leave the white/purple wire disconnected. You'd lose the
> > benefit of the higher coil voltage for starting this way, but I suspect
> > the engine would start regardless, if the rest of the ignition is in
> > good nick.
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > -- BD
> >
> >
> >
> > slatskars at comcast.net wrote:
> >> Bill,
> >>
> >> I do not have your wiring diagram, in fact I am working from MGB
> >> diagrams, but the color codes are pretty standard for Lucas systems. It
> >> sound sto me like you need a piggy-back adaptor to put both wires on the
> >> same terminal in order to suppy 12 volts to the coil while the starter is
> >> engaged. This would bypass the ballast resistor.
> >>
> >> Slats
> >> -------------- Original message ----------------------
> >> From: Bill Robertson <rover2000nut at hotmail.com>
> >>
> >>> The white/brown and white/ purple go to the starter and although
> >>> electrical work and diagram is chinese to me ...it looks like the white
> >>> brown goes from the solenoid to the inhibitor switch to the ignition
> >>> switch............the white purple goes from the solenoid to the coil.
> >>> is this correct.....I'm looking at the 3500S wiring diagram on pg 65 of
> >>> section Q in the Rover 3500/3500S Workshop manual
> >>> I'm assuming that it is the white brown will go to the single spade
> >>> connector on the new starter solenoid .............what do i do with the
> >>> white purple though.........do i run a line from it to somewhere else
> >>> like the coil or what do i do with it
> >>> Aside to Bill Daddis ....it is on the bottom like the original yet took
> >>> a few hours to install as it bolts where the tranny lines run etc and
> >>> has little clearance ......it uses studs and not the original bolts as
> >>> they would not go in or clear the housing...........
> >>> Thanks
> >>> Bill Robertson
> >>> _________________________________________________________________
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> >>
> >> Subject:
> >> [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] gear reduction starter
> >> From:
> >> Bill Robertson <rover2000nut at hotmail.com>
> >> Date:
> >> Fri, 10 Oct 2008 19:05:27 +0000
> >> To:
> >> <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> >>
> >> To:
> >> <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> >>
> >> Content-Type:
> >> Multipart/mixed; boundary="NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_7477_1223676241_1"
> >>
> >>
> >> The white/brown and white/ purple go to the starter and although
> >> electrical work and diagram is chinese to me ...it looks like the white
> >> brown goes from the solenoid to the inhibitor switch to the ignition
> >> switch............the white purple goes from the solenoid to the coil.
> >> is this correct.....I'm looking at the 3500S wiring diagram on pg 65 of
> >> section Q in the Rover 3500/3500S Workshop manual
> >> I'm assuming that it is the white brown will go to the single spade
> >> connector on the new starter solenoid .............what do i do with the
> >> white purple though.........do i run a line from it to somewhere else
> >> like the coil or what do i do with it
> >> Aside to Bill Daddis ....it is on the bottom like the original yet took
> >> a few hours to install as it bolts where the tranny lines run etc and has
> >> little clearance ......it uses studs and not the original bolts as they
> >> would not go in or clear the housing...........
> >> Thanks
> >> Bill Robertson
> >>
> >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> >> Get your information fix on your phone. With MSN Mobile you get regular
> >> news, sports and finance updates. Try it today!
> >> <http://www.msnmobile.ca>
> >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Rovernet mailing list
> >> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> >> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or
> >> no-mail:
> >> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> >> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> >> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> >> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> >> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Rovernet mailing list
> >> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> >> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or
> >> no-mail:
> >> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> >> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> >> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> >> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> >> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Rovernet mailing list
> > Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> > Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> > http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> > Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From vmitps at netspace.net.au Sat Oct 11 00:43:24 2008
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2008 15:43:24 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] gear reduction starter
In-Reply-To: <101120080430.14508.48F02BE6000502BA000038AC22058891169C9D0E059C9B0E049C@comcast.net>
References: <101120080430.14508.48F02BE6000502BA000038AC22058891169C9D0E059C9B0E049C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <5DDDC09572E54D18B31F7F50CEDFCBE8@VISTA>
It you can be bothered fitting a connection big enough to bolt on, yes.
----- Original Message -----
From: <slatskars at comcast.net>
To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Saturday, October 11, 2008 3:30 PM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] gear reduction starter
> Gee, and all this time I thought that the starter solinoid relay was a
> relay???
>
> Slats
> -------------- Original message ----------------------
> From: "Netspace" <vmitps at netspace.net.au>
>> I fit a relay and ballasted coils to P6s let alone P6Bs to improve the
>> starting.
>> I'd say go with the relay.
>>
>> PVS
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Magnet" <magnet at roverclub.org>
>> To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
>> Sent: Saturday, October 11, 2008 10:16 AM
>> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] gear reduction starter
>>
>>
>> >
>> >
>> > Hi Bill,
>> >
>> > I don't think you want to bridge the two wires (white/brown and
>> > white/purple) together -- that way, when the engine is running, you'd
>> > be
>> > feeding the 8 volts or so delivered to the coil through the ballast
>> > resistor back to the solenoid's energizing coil. I don't know if this
>> > would be enough to cause the solenoid to pull in, but it sure would
>> > draw
>> > more current through the ballast resistor than it's designed to handle,
>> > likewise the ignition switch, etc., and would cause a lower than needed
>> > voltage to be available to the coil.
>> >
>> > A little relay wired with its operating coil connected to the solenoid
>> > winding terminal on the starter (white/brown), and one of its "slave"
>> > contacts connected to the battery lead to the starter and the other to
>> > the
>> > white/purple wire that goes to the coil should do the trick. You
>> > could
>> > of course simply leave the white/purple wire disconnected. You'd lose
>> > the
>> > benefit of the higher coil voltage for starting this way, but I
>> > suspect
>> > the engine would start regardless, if the rest of the ignition is in
>> > good nick.
>> >
>> > Cheers,
>> >
>> > -- BD
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > slatskars at comcast.net wrote:
>> >> Bill,
>> >>
>> >> I do not have your wiring diagram, in fact I am working from MGB
>> >> diagrams, but the color codes are pretty standard for Lucas systems.
>> >> It
>> >> sound sto me like you need a piggy-back adaptor to put both wires on
>> >> the
>> >> same terminal in order to suppy 12 volts to the coil while the starter
>> >> is
>> >> engaged. This would bypass the ballast resistor.
>> >>
>> >> Slats
>> >> -------------- Original message ----------------------
>> >> From: Bill Robertson <rover2000nut at hotmail.com>
>> >>
>> >>> The white/brown and white/ purple go to the starter and although
>> >>> electrical work and diagram is chinese to me ...it looks like the
>> >>> white
>> >>> brown goes from the solenoid to the inhibitor switch to the ignition
>> >>> switch............the white purple goes from the solenoid to the
>> >>> coil.
>> >>> is this correct.....I'm looking at the 3500S wiring diagram on pg 65
>> >>> of
>> >>> section Q in the Rover 3500/3500S Workshop manual
>> >>> I'm assuming that it is the white brown will go to the single spade
>> >>> connector on the new starter solenoid .............what do i do with
>> >>> the
>> >>> white purple though.........do i run a line from it to somewhere else
>> >>> like the coil or what do i do with it
>> >>> Aside to Bill Daddis ....it is on the bottom like the original yet
>> >>> took
>> >>> a few hours to install as it bolts where the tranny lines run etc and
>> >>> has little clearance ......it uses studs and not the original bolts
>> >>> as
>> >>> they would not go in or clear the housing...........
>> >>> Thanks
>> >>> Bill Robertson
>> >>> _________________________________________________________________
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> >>
>> >> Subject:
>> >> [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] gear reduction starter
>> >> From:
>> >> Bill Robertson <rover2000nut at hotmail.com>
>> >> Date:
>> >> Fri, 10 Oct 2008 19:05:27 +0000
>> >> To:
>> >> <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
>> >>
>> >> To:
>> >> <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
>> >>
>> >> Content-Type:
>> >> Multipart/mixed;
>> >> boundary="NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_7477_1223676241_1"
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> The white/brown and white/ purple go to the starter and although
>> >> electrical work and diagram is chinese to me ...it looks like the
>> >> white
>> >> brown goes from the solenoid to the inhibitor switch to the ignition
>> >> switch............the white purple goes from the solenoid to the coil.
>> >> is this correct.....I'm looking at the 3500S wiring diagram on pg 65
>> >> of
>> >> section Q in the Rover 3500/3500S Workshop manual
>> >> I'm assuming that it is the white brown will go to the single spade
>> >> connector on the new starter solenoid .............what do i do with
>> >> the
>> >> white purple though.........do i run a line from it to somewhere else
>> >> like the coil or what do i do with it
>> >> Aside to Bill Daddis ....it is on the bottom like the original yet
>> >> took
>> >> a few hours to install as it bolts where the tranny lines run etc and
>> >> has
>> >> little clearance ......it uses studs and not the original bolts as
>> >> they
>> >> would not go in or clear the housing...........
>> >> Thanks
>> >> Bill Robertson
>> >>
>> >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> >> Get your information fix on your phone. With MSN Mobile you get
>> >> regular
>> >> news, sports and finance updates. Try it today!
>> >> <http://www.msnmobile.ca>
>> >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> >>
>> >> _______________________________________________
>> >> Rovernet mailing list
>> >> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> >> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or
>> >> no-mail:
>> >> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>> >> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
>> >> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
>> >> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
>> >> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>> >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> >>
>> >> _______________________________________________
>> >> Rovernet mailing list
>> >> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> >> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or
>> >> no-mail:
>> >> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>> >> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
>> >> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
>> >> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
>> >> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>> >
>> >
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > Rovernet mailing list
>> > Rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> > Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or
>> > no-mail:
>> > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>> > Here is the old Rovernet archives:
>> > http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
>> > Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
>> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Rovernet mailing list
>> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or
>> no-mail:
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
>> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
>> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From MarkCoorparoo at aol.com Sat Oct 11 03:51:00 2008
From: MarkCoorparoo at aol.com (MarkCoorparoo at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2008 03:51:00 EDT
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3500S BW35 ATF fluid
Message-ID: <c86.3e6773ba.3621b4e4@aol.com>
Hi All, a pre-script. I started to write this last Sunday night
and flaked out. Then I went on to "Truck-Time" during the week and just didn't
have the time to continue. I have finished it, as it is my experience of using
the wrong oils.
Hi Barry and PVS,
Lucky in Barrys case, now I remember a string
of responses on this subject back some years ago, including something about
the GM Spec plates and bands. It is now almost 20 years since I was last on the
tools and almost 25 since I had a workshop of my own.
In my workshop, we used to do a lot of quick, cheap and nasty used car
yard work. That started with my Dad bogging me down with all these cars from
his yards.
However, I had a good car come through for a used car warranty job one
time with a totally trashed Borg 35. It had been diagnosed as a broken diff,
you put it in gear and the box just started to hammer the CWP. It just wouldn't
drive off.
The car was a top of the line Aussie Cortina 6 cylinder Wagon ( Ghia?).
A fully loaded compact Station Wagon with a dead auto. The diff was OK. The
only indication as to its biggest problem was the red brown sludge the auto was
filled with. The wagon didn't have a tow bar so we considered that box had
not been "Cooked".
I extracted the box and convertor and dropped them over to the real good
Auto Bloke directly across the road. All the Taxis used to go to him. I just
didn't have the time to muck around with it. My Diagnosis was that the sprags
in the Convertor were not gripping and that the valve body was clogged, both
due to it never having been serviced. Ever.
The Auto Bloke called me the next arvo asking that I come over at
earliest inconvenience to inspect the scrap metal and recyclable items, while bearing
my cheque book.So I did.
First thing he said, was that it had some Dexron in it and it wasn't
built for it. The adhesive for the clutch and band linings had dissolved over
time and now they were all gone. Does everybody know how thin the friction
materials are in autos? There is not a lot there.
I asked him how he knew there Dex in it and he said he could smell it.
These days I do decline to that knowledge as I soon after learned how to smell
engine oil in Autos. Some "people" do that, put engine oil in autos. These
days I can tell when a large Truck has just been serviced by the smell of its
Oil. Fresh Oil in a big Diesel is very accrid.
Business was so much simpler back then.
After some discussion, including an inspection of the scrap metal and
several phone calls I handed over a cheque for about $360.00 OZ for an exchange
assy, with guarantee. The Auto bloke loaned me his wheel barrow to cart the
thing back across the street. I bolted the wagon back together that night and we
got it back to customer the next day.
The auto bloke had told me it was built to take Dex. I asked him why
and he said it had better discs and bands in it. So I filled it with Dex,
probably 2. He said, "all these", (Borgs) can now run on Dexron and that statment
went into my head, I got down to a one auto oil workshop just as the world
went to a situation where we now have dozens of gear oils. Some are unobtainable.
(My Audi has a gearbox , "That is Sealed for LIfe".. Figure that. Audi won't
sell you the oil. There is a Castrol Oil that is suitable.)
I have since rethought his statement and now believe he meant "his"
Borgs, not all Borgs.
So 12 -14 years on, I have put my backside into Heavy Vehicles to make
a living and I finally buy a SD1. I now have 3 and a Rangie. I had a drum of
Dex 2 left over and utilised that in the Borgs. The first one destoyed its
Auto on a diet of Dex topUp.
When it first started to slip, in second, I just tightened the band
(the car had a towbar and showed signs of heavy towing use). I was surprised by
how much the adjuster went in and how little difference it made. So with all
that Dex around, I changed its fluid. Made no difference. The new fluid got even
murkier than the old, very quickly. I was thinking that the new fluid must
have released a build up of sludge somewhere, so I changed it again. By now the
box was deteriorating very quickly. Second wouldn't hold and it was starting
to chatter engaging first. I was thinking that either the sprag in the box
wasn't gripping or the front clutch couldn't get a grip. When it started to slip
in top it was obvious that either the box was self-destructing by the fault
of me or just maybe the valve body was sticking due to the sludge. So with half
a drum of Dex still left, I decided to give it a "Flush".
Finally, I had clean fluid, however early the next week the box would
not engage second at all (I had also tightened the second gear band again). It
was also chattering heavily and hammering the diff. I had remembered that
Cortina 6 from about 15 years before, so I parked it and drove the Rangie. This is
where I also re-thought what the auto bloke said to me years before. I also
put the Brain back into gear. I recalled the mob over in Milton (Brisbone)
that had asked me a question about intended lubricant when I was buying bits to
fix Borgs. I had clean fluid because there was no friction material left in
the box.. This box was not compatible with Dexron.
The Borgs have gradually tried to fix their probs as they dissapear from
the scene, which is sad, but after market people as usual will sort things.
Here in Oz, we used to have a massive BW Plant down in Albury.
So we now have to make sure we know what sort of liquids we have to feed
our Autos. That stuff about clutch Discs and Bands, the oil HAS to be
compatable with the adhesives, the stuff that keeps the thin lining of friction
material attached to the discs and bands. If the oil that you put down the tube
dissolves the linings, your box is stuffed. They are starting to get very
expensive to fix.
So everyone, I am now very choosy about the liquids I use in any
equipment, it has to be compatible with the materials the equipment is constructed
from. Also, driving trucks around Brisbone, I have on many occaisons been into
most of the oil plants in this town. It is very surprising just how many
different blends they make. There are quite a few base oils used and then there are
a hugh number of additive packages. The Chemical engineers tailor fluids for
just about verything these days.
Regards,
MWJ.
**************
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081011/393a0c60/attachment-0001.html>
From wfritz at mindspring.com Sat Oct 11 05:50:48 2008
From: wfritz at mindspring.com (Fritz Rauschenberg)
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2008 05:50:48 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] De Dion Boot
Message-ID: <410-220081061195048283@mindspring.com>
And Ruth has 'em. ABC might be a little closer.
Fritz Rauschenberg
wfritz at mindspring.com
EarthLink Revolves Around You.
> [Original Message]
> From: <ABoasberg at webtv.net (Albert Boasberg)>
> To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca (The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.)>
> Date: 10/10/2008 11:34:30 PM
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] De Dion Boot
>
> Looking for a De Dion boot for my 1969 Rover TC 2000.
>
> Thanks.
> Albert
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From rover2000nut at hotmail.com Sat Oct 11 10:28:54 2008
From: rover2000nut at hotmail.com (Bill Robertson)
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2008 14:28:54 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] gear reduction starter
Message-ID: <BAY119-W35B8F5F45CB03E7EA93280DE340@phx.gbl>
Where is the ballast resistor...........I've seen ones on an old Chrysler but didn't think i had one on the 3500S nor my 2000TC............I'm in the dark as to hooking up a relay much less knowing what one is........I thought this starter was straight forward hook up but now its like rocket science.........at this rate i'll put in the old starter.........
Thanks for all your help
Bill
_________________________________________________________________
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081011/b5a675eb/attachment.html>
From lafbery at telus.net Sat Oct 11 13:45:56 2008
From: lafbery at telus.net (Shirley & Barry Lafbery)
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2008 10:45:56 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3500S BW35 ATF fluid
References: <c86.3e6773ba.3621b4e4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <003201c92bc9$37357180$6400a8c0@Barry>
Very interesting, I guess it pays to know where your box has come from and who's been at it but when buying a 20 year old car that becomes a bit difficult. I bought my 3500s in 1990 and had it for 10 years with no trouble at all and I towed a utility trailer and usually over loaded. I did pull the eng/tranny to do the engine and the tranny looked as if it had never been touched but you never know. When I put it back together I filled it with Dex and carried on motoring. But what you say makes you think.
Barry
Hi All, a pre-script. I started to write this last Sunday night and flaked out. Then I went on to "Truck-Time" during the week and just didn't have the time to continue. I have finished it, as it is my experience of using the wrong oils.
Hi Barry and PVS,
Lucky in Barrys case, now I remember a string of responses on this subject back some years ago, including something about the GM Spec plates and bands. It is now almost 20 years since I was last on the tools and almost 25 since I had a workshop of my own.
In my workshop, we used to do a lot of quick, cheap and nasty used car yard work. That started with my Dad bogging me down with all these cars from his yards.
However, I had a good car come through for a used car warranty job one time with a totally trashed Borg 35. It had been diagnosed as a broken diff, you put it in gear and the box just started to hammer the CWP. It just wouldn't drive off.
The car was a top of the line Aussie Cortina 6 cylinder Wagon ( Ghia?). A fully loaded compact Station Wagon with a dead auto. The diff was OK. The only indication as to its biggest problem was the red brown sludge the auto was filled with. The wagon didn't have a tow bar so we considered that box had not been "Cooked".
I extracted the box and convertor and dropped them over to the real good Auto Bloke directly across the road. All the Taxis used to go to him. I just didn't have the time to muck around with it. My Diagnosis was that the sprags in the Convertor were not gripping and that the valve body was clogged, both due to it never having been serviced. Ever.
The Auto Bloke called me the next arvo asking that I come over at earliest inconvenience to inspect the scrap metal and recyclable items, while bearing my cheque book.So I did.
First thing he said, was that it had some Dexron in it and it wasn't built for it. The adhesive for the clutch and band linings had dissolved over time and now they were all gone. Does everybody know how thin the friction materials are in autos? There is not a lot there.
I asked him how he knew there Dex in it and he said he could smell it. These days I do decline to that knowledge as I soon after learned how to smell engine oil in Autos. Some "people" do that, put engine oil in autos. These days I can tell when a large Truck has just been serviced by the smell of its Oil. Fresh Oil in a big Diesel is very accrid.
Business was so much simpler back then.
After some discussion, including an inspection of the scrap metal and several phone calls I handed over a cheque for about $360.00 OZ for an exchange assy, with guarantee. The Auto bloke loaned me his wheel barrow to cart the thing back across the street. I bolted the wagon back together that night and we got it back to customer the next day.
The auto bloke had told me it was built to take Dex. I asked him why and he said it had better discs and bands in it. So I filled it with Dex, probably 2. He said, "all these", (Borgs) can now run on Dexron and that statment went into my head, I got down to a one auto oil workshop just as the world went to a situation where we now have dozens of gear oils. Some are unobtainable. (My Audi has a gearbox , "That is Sealed for LIfe".. Figure that. Audi won't sell you the oil. There is a Castrol Oil that is suitable.)
I have since rethought his statement and now believe he meant "his" Borgs, not all Borgs.
So 12 -14 years on, I have put my backside into Heavy Vehicles to make a living and I finally buy a SD1. I now have 3 and a Rangie. I had a drum of Dex 2 left over and utilised that in the Borgs. The first one destoyed its Auto on a diet of Dex topUp.
When it first started to slip, in second, I just tightened the band (the car had a towbar and showed signs of heavy towing use). I was surprised by how much the adjuster went in and how little difference it made. So with all that Dex around, I changed its fluid. Made no difference. The new fluid got even murkier than the old, very quickly. I was thinking that the new fluid must have released a build up of sludge somewhere, so I changed it again. By now the box was deteriorating very quickly. Second wouldn't hold and it was starting to chatter engaging first. I was thinking that either the sprag in the box wasn't gripping or the front clutch couldn't get a grip. When it started to slip in top it was obvious that either the box was self-destructing by the fault of me or just maybe the valve body was sticking due to the sludge. So with half a drum of Dex still left, I decided to give it a "Flush".
Finally, I had clean fluid, however early the next week the box would not engage second at all (I had also tightened the second gear band again). It was also chattering heavily and hammering the diff. I had remembered that Cortina 6 from about 15 years before, so I parked it and drove the Rangie. This is where I also re-thought what the auto bloke said to me years before. I also put the Brain back into gear. I recalled the mob over in Milton (Brisbone) that had asked me a question about intended lubricant when I was buying bits to fix Borgs. I had clean fluid because there was no friction material left in the box.. This box was not compatible with Dexron.
The Borgs have gradually tried to fix their probs as they dissapear from the scene, which is sad, but after market people as usual will sort things. Here in Oz, we used to have a massive BW Plant down in Albury.
So we now have to make sure we know what sort of liquids we have to feed our Autos. That stuff about clutch Discs and Bands, the oil HAS to be compatable with the adhesives, the stuff that keeps the thin lining of friction material attached to the discs and bands. If the oil that you put down the tube dissolves the linings, your box is stuffed. They are starting to get very expensive to fix.
So everyone, I am now very choosy about the liquids I use in any equipment, it has to be compatible with the materials the equipment is constructed from. Also, driving trucks around Brisbone, I have on many occaisons been into most of the oil plants in this town. It is very surprising just how many different blends they make. There are quite a few base oils used and then there are a hugh number of additive packages. The Chemical engineers tailor fluids for just about verything these days.
Regards,
MWJ.
**************
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Internal Virus Database is out of date.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.7.0/1683 - Release Date: 9/21/2008 10:10 AM
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081011/726611c9/attachment.html>
From magnet at roverclub.org Sat Oct 11 19:16:15 2008
From: magnet at roverclub.org (Magnet)
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2008 19:16:15 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] [Rovernet - gear reduction starter
wiring
In-Reply-To: <BAY119-W35B8F5F45CB03E7EA93280DE340@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY119-W35B8F5F45CB03E7EA93280DE340@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP249A8176DEA0209ECCA9EE91340@phx.gbl>
Hi Bill,
I can't say without a bit of research just where the ballast resistor
lives, but it's not really important because the object of the game is
to by-pass it when cranking, and your white/purple wire does this, going
directly from a 12-volt point on the stater to the coil + terminal.
The business of the relay really isn't complicated. I'll draw a little
wiring diagram and send it you off-line.
Cheers,
-- Bill D.
========================
Bill Robertson wrote:
> Where is the ballast resistor...........I've seen ones on an old
> Chrysler but didn't think i had one on the 3500S nor my
> 2000TC............I'm in the dark as to hooking up a relay much less
> knowing what one is........I thought this starter was straight forward
> hook up but now its like rocket science.........at this rate i'll put
> in the old starter.........
>
> Thanks for all your help
> Bill
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Get your information fix on your phone. With MSN Mobile you get
> regular news, sports and finance updates. Try it today!
> <http://www.msnmobile.ca>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From roger.matheson at bigpond.com Sat Oct 11 21:22:09 2008
From: roger.matheson at bigpond.com (roger.matheson at bigpond.com)
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2008 11:22:09 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Finding TDC on a 2000TC
Message-ID: <29180048.1223774529868.JavaMail.root@nschwwebs06p>
Hi Jim,
Thanks for your reply, but the only marks on the flywheel that I can see are the EP marks. That was the first place I looked and I will look again. I doubt that I can get an accurate reading with a probe through the spark plug hole because of the angle. Any suggestions?
Cheers Roger
---- Jim Cumberland <fjcumberland at yahoo.com> wrote:
> Mine is a series II 2000 TC - Steve is spot on re location. It's even easy to see (unlike, say, on a Mini . . .. . ).
>
> Good luck!
>
> Jim
>
> Original Message ----
> From: Steven Dibdin <sdibdin at hotmail.com>
> To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts. <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Sent: Friday, October 10, 2008 11:36:25 AM
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Finding TDC on a 2000TC
>
>
> Hi Roger,
>
> There should be a timing mark on the flywheel. You will find a rectanglar cover on the top right side of the bell housing. On left hand drive cars it's just below the windscreen washer bottle towards the center of the car. Once you remove the cover you will find a pointer inside the bell housing and a mark on the side of the flywheel, just next to the ring gear teeth. Hopefully that should get you where you need to be.
>
> My car is a series 1 I'm guessing yours is a series 2 so it may be different on yours. But I doubt it.
>
> Hope that helps,
>
> StevenD
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From p6rovers at yahoo.com Sat Oct 11 21:49:18 2008
From: p6rovers at yahoo.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2008 18:49:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Finding TDC on a 2000TC
In-Reply-To: <29180048.1223774529868.JavaMail.root@nschwwebs06p>
Message-ID: <484847.53210.qm@web34308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Take the valve cover off.
Have a discussion on the net whether to set the #1 piston or the #4 piston as the piston with which to refer for TDC.
When that is set, use the position of the camshaft lobes to determine TDC.
Take a steel punch and mark a line or a series of holes on the actual flywheel to line up with the marker where TDC will be.
Use a white crayon or "White Out" to mark the line or dots for future reference. Now you know where TDC is on the flywheel.
Then you needs parts 574358, Timing Pointer, and part 574359, Adaptor Timing Pointer TC Block
These fit just below and to one side of the blanking plate.
I use a strobe where there is a dial at the back to adjust the firing of the strobe I preset it to the degrees I need and my dynamic timing is easy.
Eric
Eric
From ianalice at shaw.ca Sun Oct 12 00:55:36 2008
From: ianalice at shaw.ca (Alice and Ian Potts)
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2008 21:55:36 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Finding TDC on a 2000TC
References: <29180048.1223774529868.JavaMail.root@nschwwebs06p>
Message-ID: <3E57959865134151B46E08954993772D@jimrsl7dsabc2y>
Just a note to add to Eric's excellent suggestion.....After center punching
a mark or a line on the flywheel, center punch a mark on both sides of the
aluminum window edge, then fill the holes with white paint for clear vision
with your timing light.
----- Original Message -----
From: <roger.matheson at bigpond.com>
To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Saturday, October 11, 2008 6:22 PM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Finding TDC on a 2000TC
> Hi Jim,
>
> Thanks for your reply, but the only marks on the flywheel that I can see
> are the EP marks. That was the first place I looked and I will look
> again. I doubt that I can get an accurate reading with a probe through
> the spark plug hole because of the angle. Any suggestions?
>
> Cheers Roger
> ---- Jim Cumberland <fjcumberland at yahoo.com> wrote:
>> Mine is a series II 2000 TC - Steve is spot on re location. It's even
>> easy to see (unlike, say, on a Mini . . .. . ).
>>
>> Good luck!
>>
>> Jim
>>
>> Original Message ----
>> From: Steven Dibdin <sdibdin at hotmail.com>
>> To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts. <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
>> Sent: Friday, October 10, 2008 11:36:25 AM
>> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Finding TDC on a 2000TC
>>
>>
>> Hi Roger,
>>
>> There should be a timing mark on the flywheel. You will find a rectanglar
>> cover on the top right side of the bell housing. On left hand drive cars
>> it's just below the windscreen washer bottle towards the center of the
>> car. Once you remove the cover you will find a pointer inside the bell
>> housing and a mark on the side of the flywheel, just next to the ring
>> gear teeth. Hopefully that should get you where you need to be.
>>
>> My car is a series 1 I'm guessing yours is a series 2 so it may be
>> different on yours. But I doubt it.
>>
>> Hope that helps,
>>
>> StevenD
>> _______________________________________________
>> Rovernet mailing list
>> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or
>> no-mail:
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
>> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
>> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
From MarkCoorparoo at aol.com Sun Oct 12 02:07:13 2008
From: MarkCoorparoo at aol.com (MarkCoorparoo at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2008 02:07:13 EDT
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] ATF - Barry Welsh
Message-ID: <cab.38def85f.3622ee11@aol.com>
Hi Barry and all,
Just re-read my post on ATF. I forgot to
mention something that may be of interest to P6 enthusiasts in the UK that have
been around for a while.
I pulled the gearbox out of the Series 1 SD1 and replaced it with one
that I obtained from Barry Welsh. Barry was running a business called Rover
Recyclers out around Roma somewhere, Rural SE Queensland. I heard a while ago
that he was in poor health, couldn't work any more and was selling up. He was a
bit rough at times, the gearbox he sold me had a BW 35 pump in it. I believe
Barry first had a big heart attack at least 25 years ago. Hopefully someone on
here can fill in the current news.
Now all you P6 people that are a bit long in the tooth, do you remember
the P6's that ran in the UK's Super Saloon Series in the mid 70's ? Very few
rules for the cars, one rule was that they had to retain the side view profile.
Barry had found himself in the UK for some reason, he had previously
been employed on a Lola T70 that was campaigned here in Oz. Somehow he became one
of the few blokes that was employed on the P6 "Superloons". He told me a bit
about them when I first met about 20 years ago. He was very passionate about
SD1's and Rovers in general. I suspect his Rover interest goes back to the
Buick days, he had been a Race Mechanic on and off, there where a few Traco
Oldsmobiles in Oz, in the mid 60's.
Does any of our Rovernetters in the UK remember Barry Welsh. He would
have been slim and about 40 years old at the time, he might be remembered for
his demeanor more than anything else. He was one of several Aussies that I
have met that were working on race cars in the UK at that time, Blair from
Automotive Carburettors in Brisbane is another.
One interesting anecdote Barry told me is that they experimented with
turbocharging the P6's, that would have to be one first times a Rover was
Turboed. They had a "Dyno-Mule" engine that they kept winding up the boost on. They
got to 605 BHP before it blew up. He called it "Air on Top".
So there is a bit of history.
Regards,
MWJ.
**************
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081012/80a9ac28/attachment.html>
From vmitps at netspace.net.au Sun Oct 12 02:32:36 2008
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2008 17:32:36 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] ATF - Barry Welsh
In-Reply-To: <cab.38def85f.3622ee11@aol.com>
References: <cab.38def85f.3622ee11@aol.com>
Message-ID: <FB5F8CC07B484B99941765F65496B66D@VISTA>
One interesting anecdote Barry told me is that they experimented with turbocharging the P6's, that would have to be one first times a Rover was Turboed. They had a "Dyno-Mule" engine that they kept winding up the boost on. They got to 605 BHP before it blew up. He called it "Air on Top".
Scott has a turbo P6 SC that we have not had an update on...
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081012/c9973461/attachment.html>
From j_radcliffe at hotmail.com Fri Oct 17 16:13:48 2008
From: j_radcliffe at hotmail.com (James Radcliffe)
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2008 16:13:48 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Lucas Generator parts.
In-Reply-To: <mailman.7.1223827219.4021.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
References: <mailman.7.1223827219.4021.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <BLU140-W4583223AD9DDC1210D2E328E320@phx.gbl>
Where in the Eastern US is there a good supplier of parts for a Generator for a 66 Rover 2000. The generator is a C42, and I need new brush springs.
Thanks,
James Radcliffe.
_________________________________________________________________
You live life beyond your PC. So now Windows goes beyond your PC.
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/115298556/direct/01/
From graflexmaster at yahoo.com Fri Oct 17 23:30:34 2008
From: graflexmaster at yahoo.com (michael)
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2008 20:30:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Other P6 service tools
In-Reply-To: <48E3B03F.80401@att.net>
Message-ID: <490062.53919.qm@web38206.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Hey Kent;
Although I don't have a 100% complete set of the "special" tools listed for the Rover 2000, I do have (as far as I know), the only 100% complete set of valve adjust shims for the Rover 2000/2200 motor. As to the rest of the special tools? My collection is only about 50% complete with the rest being substituted by modern tools from other tool suppliers that do the same as the original.
?
Michael
--- On Wed, 10/1/08, Kent Kinard <kkinard at att.net> wrote:
From: Kent Kinard <kkinard at att.net>
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Other P6 service tools
To: twinklsun at yahoo.com, "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Date: Wednesday, October 1, 2008, 10:15 AM
Hi All,
I feel sure that I now have a complete set of special service tools for
the P6/P6B, including the aforementioned "pie cutter" and front
spring
retaining rods. I have yet to catalogue them. None of us will have
regular use for these tools since there is no longer such a thing as a
P6 restoration shop in the western hemisphere, so it seems only fair to
set up a scheme where they can be loaned out for a small fee (and a
large deposit, in case you lose one of them!) The RCCC or some other
individual may have these tools but to split them up or sell them
individually would eliminate the potential for the "lending library"
approach. Is anyone doing this now?
Does this sound interesting? Are you in need of any tool immediately?
Roverevolvingly,
Kent K.
Laine Colley wrote:
> And when you're done repairing the brakes, you can have your personal
> chef make an extra special Roveresque pie with custom fluting on the
> edges with it! lol
>
> Laine
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081017/9c61fd5f/attachment.html>
From roger.matheson at bigpond.com Sat Oct 18 00:35:42 2008
From: roger.matheson at bigpond.com (Roger.Matheson)
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2008 15:35:42 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Finding TDC on a 2000TC
References: <484847.53210.qm@web34308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <002501c930da$fb32bd20$0300000a@homea7f046a5f4>
Hi Eric,
Thanks for your reply. Sorry to be thick and stupid but how do you
determine on the camshaft lobes when the engine is at TDC. For example is
it the maximum opening of a valve on 2 or 3, given that I or 4 will be
compressing for firing?
Cheers
Roger
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Russell" <p6rovers at yahoo.com>
To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2008 12:49 PM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Finding TDC on a 2000TC
> Take the valve cover off.
> Have a discussion on the net whether to set the #1 piston or the #4 piston
> as the piston with which to refer for TDC.
>
> When that is set, use the position of the camshaft lobes to determine TDC.
>
> Take a steel punch and mark a line or a series of holes on the actual
> flywheel to line up with the marker where TDC will be.
>
> Use a white crayon or "White Out" to mark the line or dots for future
> reference. Now you know where TDC is on the flywheel.
>
> Then you needs parts 574358, Timing Pointer, and part 574359, Adaptor
> Timing Pointer TC Block
>
> These fit just below and to one side of the blanking plate.
>
> I use a strobe where there is a dial at the back to adjust the firing of
> the strobe I preset it to the degrees I need and my dynamic timing is
> easy.
>
> Eric
>
>
> Eric
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG.
> Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.8.0/1721 - Release Date: 12/10/2008
> 12:00 PM
>
From tomas.borjeson at gmail.com Sat Oct 18 05:28:33 2008
From: tomas.borjeson at gmail.com (Tomas =?iso-8859-1?Q?B=F6rjeson?=)
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2008 11:28:33 +0200
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] gear reduction starter
In-Reply-To: <BAY119-W35B8F5F45CB03E7EA93280DE340@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY119-W35B8F5F45CB03E7EA93280DE340@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <48f9b04a.2435440a.781a.ffffdd2c@mx.google.com>
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081018/c4a3ac8d/attachment.html>
From irishrover1 at sympatico.ca Sat Oct 18 09:29:40 2008
From: irishrover1 at sympatico.ca (BEN RODGERS)
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2008 10:29:40 -0300
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Lucas Generator parts.
References: <mailman.7.1223827219.4021.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
<BLU140-W4583223AD9DDC1210D2E328E320@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP484E25CEA736F6D1D6A80952D0@phx.gbl>
Hi James
Did you get any answers to your call for new generator brush
springs? If not, I'm sure I can find what you need around here, not new but
will probably work fine. You can let me know.
regards Ben (irishrover)
Visit our website and blog at
www.irishroversbooks.com
From dmesmg at juno.com Sat Oct 18 10:23:03 2008
From: dmesmg at juno.com (dmesmg at juno.com)
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2008 10:23:03 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Lucas Generator parts.
Message-ID: <20081018.102303.192.0.dmesmg@juno.com>
James,
I am not sure where you are located --I am in Rochester, NY.
Master Car Parts
37 Stone Road
Rochester, NY 14616
585-865-8430 rebuilt the starter and generator (Lucas C40) on my MGA Mk
II Deluxe last winter with excellent results and modest costs. The
gentleman who does the rebuilding is 'Tim' ---sorry I do not have his
last name. He appears to have a good supply of parts and an ability to
find the obscure among Lucas electrical components.
Best regards,
Dan Suter
____________________________________________________________
Click for free info on college degrees.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3l8WveoSh83B5p5YiCSSgvu8k7GIg6vLJNNv3WZ7p3AXCW6l/
From lacpsyd6 at msn.com Sat Oct 18 10:46:21 2008
From: lacpsyd6 at msn.com (LANCE G LACERTE, LANCE G LA CERTE)
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2008 08:46:21 -0600
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] DeDion Boot
References: <mailman.7.1223740809.32725.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <BAY112-DAV2B554B6D74E702EE2E742832D0@phx.gbl>
Give Scott Old Auto Rubber a try. I've purchased boots from them before.
Lance La Certe, Psy.D.
----- Original Message -----
From: <rovernet-request at rovernet.ca>
To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Saturday, October 11, 2008 10:00 AM
Subject: Rovernet Digest, Vol 4, Issue 13
> Send Rovernet mailing list submissions to
> rovernet at rovernet.ca
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> rovernet-request at rovernet.ca
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> rovernet-owner at rovernet.ca
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Rovernet digest..."
>
>
> Please edit your digest reply by changing the subject line to the topic to
> which you are referring.
>
> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Re: De Dion Boot (Fritz Rauschenberg)
> 2. gear reduction starter (Bill Robertson)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2008 05:50:48 -0400
> From: "Fritz Rauschenberg" <wfritz at mindspring.com>
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] De Dion Boot
> To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts."
> <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Message-ID: <410-220081061195048283 at mindspring.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
>
> And Ruth has 'em. ABC might be a little closer.
>
> Fritz Rauschenberg
> wfritz at mindspring.com
> EarthLink Revolves Around You.
>
>
> > [Original Message]
> > From: <ABoasberg at webtv.net (Albert Boasberg)>
> > To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca (The original list for Rover car
> > enthusiasts.)>
> > Date: 10/10/2008 11:34:30 PM
> > Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] De Dion Boot
> >
> > Looking for a De Dion boot for my 1969 Rover TC 2000.
> >
> > Thanks.
> > Albert
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Rovernet mailing list
> > Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or
> > no-mail:
> > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> > Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> > http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> > Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2008 14:28:54 +0000
> From: Bill Robertson <rover2000nut at hotmail.com>
> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] gear reduction starter
> To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Message-ID: <BAY119-W35B8F5F45CB03E7EA93280DE340 at phx.gbl>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
>
> Where is the ballast resistor...........I've seen ones on an old Chrysler
> but didn't think i had one on the 3500S nor my 2000TC............I'm in
> the dark as to hooking up a relay much less knowing what one is........I
> thought this starter was straight forward hook up but now its like rocket
> science.........at this rate i'll put in the old starter.........
>
> Thanks for all your help
> Bill
> _________________________________________________________________
>
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:
> <http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081011/b5a675eb/attachment-0001.html>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
> End of Rovernet Digest, Vol 4, Issue 13
> ***************************************
>
From rover2000nut at hotmail.com Sat Oct 18 18:26:08 2008
From: rover2000nut at hotmail.com (Bill Robertson)
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2008 22:26:08 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Brakes now!!!!! or lack of
Message-ID: <BAY119-W429DE843062206F719DB41DE2D0@phx.gbl>
I've got the engine fired up after rebuilding it and carbs tuned along with the timing set etc...........purrs like a kitten.......really pleased there.......But after topping up the fluid in the tranny went to go out for a quick blast round the neighbourhood and lo and behold i've no brakes......well the emergency brake works........I've had the booster unhooked for a year now with the engine out.......it worked fine when i stopped driving it......however like most things in Roverland another hiccup has occurred............Can the booster be tested.......my only experience was years ago when a bad booster was sucking all the fluid ..........doesn't seem to be happening here, yet i recall when i got it; bleeding the fronts and getting very little fluid.....yet they worked fine
Thanks
Bill Robertson
_________________________________________________________________
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081018/75aa06a1/attachment.html>
From phing at videotron.ca Sat Oct 18 23:35:31 2008
From: phing at videotron.ca (Patrick Hiron)
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2008 23:35:31 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Brakes now!!!!! or lack of
References: <BAY119-W429DE843062206F719DB41DE2D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <12A0132069534013A0C2D940C482CD3B@patrickb253678>
Bill
Been there , done that and have the scars , but no Tee shirt . E mail me off line at phing at videotron.ca or call me on 1 514 697 7666 and I will talk you through a test procedure fior the booster vacuum circuit . It was a pleasure to meet you at the Bronte show .I plan to bring my P6B next year
Cheers
Patrick ----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Robertson
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Sent: Saturday, October 18, 2008 6:26 PM
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Brakes now!!!!! or lack of
I've got the engine fired up after rebuilding it and carbs tuned along with the timing set etc...........purrs like a kitten.......really pleased there.......But after topping up the fluid in the tranny went to go out for a quick blast round the neighbourhood and lo and behold i've no brakes......well the emergency brake works........I've had the booster unhooked for a year now with the engine out.......it worked fine when i stopped driving it......however like most things in Roverland another hiccup has occurred............Can the booster be tested.......my only experience was years ago when a bad booster was sucking all the fluid ..........doesn't seem to be happening here, yet i recall when i got it; bleeding the fronts and getting very little fluid.....yet they worked fine
Thanks
Bill Robertson
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Upgrade to Hotmail Plus and share more photos with bigger attachments. Click here to find out how Click here to find out how
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081018/afd3312d/attachment.html>
From adrian.mcdonald at live.com Sun Oct 19 02:13:58 2008
From: adrian.mcdonald at live.com (Adrian McDonald)
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2008 23:13:58 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Wacky Races
In-Reply-To: <002501c930da$fb32bd20$0300000a@homea7f046a5f4>
References: <484847.53210.qm@web34308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
<002501c930da$fb32bd20$0300000a@homea7f046a5f4>
Message-ID: <BLU146-W79471B90E5246F1222CE99E2C0@phx.gbl>
http://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/carsforsale/rover/unspecified/532835.html
?!
Adrian
CA
_________________________________________________________________
When your life is on the go?take your life with you.
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/115298558/direct/01/
From Harveyjohnw at aol.com Sun Oct 19 05:11:41 2008
From: Harveyjohnw at aol.com (Harveyjohnw at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2008 05:11:41 EDT
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Brake booster testing
Message-ID: <be9.3dc541b2.362c53cd@aol.com>
Hi Guys,
First time on here so if i get it wrong bear with me,
The easiest way to check a brake booster (or brake servo) is to
pump the pedal till it is hard then with the pedal depressed start the
engine and if the booster is working the pedal will drop a little bit.
John.
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081019/4335d74c/attachment.html>
From MarkCoorparoo at aol.com Sun Oct 19 07:54:10 2008
From: MarkCoorparoo at aol.com (MarkCoorparoo at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2008 07:54:10 EDT
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Brake booster testing
Message-ID: <bc6.36418db4.362c79e2@aol.com>
Yeh,
That's what I used to do and the pedal got lighter as well. There
was only two reasons why it didn't happen, either a mechanical problem was
stopping the booster from having its little push on the master cylinder, or the
engine couldn't suck on the diaphram.
Big, BIG cams were the problem in the '70's. No vacuum under three grand.
However you occaisonally found an engine that had no vac. because it had no
comp.. We would fix that and then discover that it still had no booster,
because what was left of the diaphram was covered in engine oil.
Hope that is some help, about to go back onto TruckTime.
Regards,
MWJ.
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081019/2cc8f5dc/attachment.html>
From kkinard at att.net Sun Oct 19 18:33:03 2008
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2008 17:33:03 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Wacky Races
In-Reply-To: <BLU146-W79471B90E5246F1222CE99E2C0@phx.gbl>
References: <484847.53210.qm@web34308.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <002501c930da$fb32bd20$0300000a@homea7f046a5f4>
<BLU146-W79471B90E5246F1222CE99E2C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <48FBB59F.1090703@att.net>
Hi Adrian,
This car has been around for a while...started out in Oklahoma. It is a
1952-54, not a '48. Original builder labeled it a '48 in order to make
it into Street Rod classes instead of Street Machine at shows. There is
no accounting for personal taste.
Roverly,
Kent K.
Adrian McDonald wrote:
>
> http://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/carsforsale/rover/unspecified/532835.html
>
>
> ?!
>
>
> Adrian
>
>
> CA
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> When your life is on the go?take your life with you.
> http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/115298558/direct/01/
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
From phing at videotron.ca Sun Oct 19 23:26:05 2008
From: phing at videotron.ca (Patrick Hiron)
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2008 23:26:05 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Brakes now!!!!! or lack of
References: <BAY119-W429DE843062206F719DB41DE2D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20F40C58D2134BD6BE6F663C9EFCA696@patrickb253678>
Bill
Part 2 !!
You can check the hydraulics independent of the booster . Crack the inlet line from the master cylinder to the booster , at the booster , Press the pedal , if the master cylinder is OK you will observe a fountain of fluid . Tighten the pipe and then crack each outlet from the brass 5 way connector after the booster .in turn . Repeat and check the flow . If you get lots of fluid the hydraulics are fine . If not its a question of rebuilding one , or both hydraulic cylinders .
By the way that 5 way dingus is a primitive DP switch , p[art of the brake check circuit . It's NOT a magic valve which isolates one of the brake systems if you have a leaking brake pipe . I found this out when I stripped a spare unit !!
Cheers
Patrick
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Robertson
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Sent: Saturday, October 18, 2008 6:26 PM
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Brakes now!!!!! or lack of
I've got the engine fired up after rebuilding it and carbs tuned along with the timing set etc...........purrs like a kitten.......really pleased there.......But after topping up the fluid in the tranny went to go out for a quick blast round the neighbourhood and lo and behold i've no brakes......well the emergency brake works........I've had the booster unhooked for a year now with the engine out.......it worked fine when i stopped driving it......however like most things in Roverland another hiccup has occurred............Can the booster be tested.......my only experience was years ago when a bad booster was sucking all the fluid ..........doesn't seem to be happening here, yet i recall when i got it; bleeding the fronts and getting very little fluid.....yet they worked fine
Thanks
Bill Robertson
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Upgrade to Hotmail Plus and share more photos with bigger attachments. Click here to find out how Click here to find out how
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081019/f28026cb/attachment.html>
From sdibdin at hotmail.com Mon Oct 20 11:02:48 2008
From: sdibdin at hotmail.com (Steven Dibdin)
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 15:02:48 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Weird weak spark problem
In-Reply-To: <bc6.36418db4.362c79e2@aol.com>
References: <bc6.36418db4.362c79e2@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY106-W16E22DFBC2FB9432351C6FB02F0@phx.gbl>
Hi Folks,
I wonder if anybody has any ideas what's causing this:
I have a weak spark on the high tension to cyl no.1. The sparks for cyl 2-4 are really good, they'll jump a good 1/2" (13mm). I have a crane opitcal electronic ignition system fitted. I had the same problem with points before I converted, but not so pronounced. I had put it down to some possible cam wear in that lobe.
I have swapped spark wires to see if the problem was wire related. I have also swapped to a new dissy cap and rotor arm, this would feel better for about 3 miles and the trouble would show up again. Tracking on the inside of the cap shows a smaller discharge through the no.1 contact. The spindle seems to have about 0.5mm (0.020") of lateral play, could that be enough to cause this? Also there is no scatter on the timing, either with the points or the Crane system.
Any thoughts?
Please help!
Cheers,
StevenD
From p6rovers at yahoo.com Mon Oct 20 12:04:36 2008
From: p6rovers at yahoo.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 09:04:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Weird weak spark problem
In-Reply-To: <BAY106-W16E22DFBC2FB9432351C6FB02F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <156300.1677.qm@web34303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Have you changed the HT wire to Cyl. #1?
Eric
Webmaster of The Rover Car Club of Canada
Website: http://www.roverclub.ca/
Webmaster of a variety of sites from:
http://www.websrus.ca
--- On Mon, 10/20/08, Steven Dibdin <sdibdin at hotmail.com> wrote:
> From: Steven Dibdin <sdibdin at hotmail.com>
> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Weird weak spark problem
> To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Date: Monday, October 20, 2008, 8:02 AM
> Hi Folks,
>
> I wonder if anybody has any ideas what's causing this:
>
> I have a weak spark on the high tension to cyl no.1. The
> sparks for cyl 2-4 are really good, they'll jump a good
> 1/2" (13mm). I have a crane opitcal electronic ignition
> system fitted. I had the same problem with points before I
> converted, but not so pronounced. I had put it down to some
> possible cam wear in that lobe.
>
> I have swapped spark wires to see if the problem was wire
> related. I have also swapped to a new dissy cap and rotor
> arm, this would feel better for about 3 miles and the
> trouble would show up again. Tracking on the inside of the
> cap shows a smaller discharge through the no.1 contact. The
> spindle seems to have about 0.5mm (0.020") of lateral
> play, could that be enough to cause this? Also there is no
> scatter on the timing, either with the points or the Crane
> system.
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Please help!
>
> Cheers,
>
> StevenD
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest
> mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
From nathanobuch at yahoo.com Mon Oct 20 19:14:06 2008
From: nathanobuch at yahoo.com (Nathan Obuch)
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 16:14:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Weird weak spark problem
In-Reply-To: <BAY106-W16E22DFBC2FB9432351C6FB02F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <42544.14774.qm@web54603.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Steven,
Anything which allows the HV on the distributor to rise abnormally can cause the distributor cap to break down...that includes a spark plug with excessive gap, an open or high resistance HT lead. I would examine the plug and HT lead for cyl #1. Also, many repro ignition parts are rubbish. I had terrible issues with rotor arms on my MGB.
Good luck!
Nathan
--- On Mon, 10/20/08, Steven Dibdin <sdibdin at hotmail.com> wrote:
> From: Steven Dibdin <sdibdin at hotmail.com>
> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Weird weak spark problem
> To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Date: Monday, October 20, 2008, 10:02 AM
> Hi Folks,
>
> I wonder if anybody has any ideas what's causing this:
>
> I have a weak spark on the high tension to cyl no.1. The
> sparks for cyl 2-4 are really good, they'll jump a good
> 1/2" (13mm). I have a crane opitcal electronic ignition
> system fitted. I had the same problem with points before I
> converted, but not so pronounced. I had put it down to some
> possible cam wear in that lobe.
>
> I have swapped spark wires to see if the problem was wire
> related. I have also swapped to a new dissy cap and rotor
> arm, this would feel better for about 3 miles and the
> trouble would show up again. Tracking on the inside of the
> cap shows a smaller discharge through the no.1 contact. The
> spindle seems to have about 0.5mm (0.020") of lateral
> play, could that be enough to cause this? Also there is no
> scatter on the timing, either with the points or the Crane
> system.
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Please help!
>
> Cheers,
>
> StevenD
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest
> mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
From vern at inkspotco.com Mon Oct 20 21:17:16 2008
From: vern at inkspotco.com (Vern Klukas)
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 18:17:16 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Weird weak spark problem
In-Reply-To: <BAY106-W16E22DFBC2FB9432351C6FB02F0@phx.gbl>
References: <bc6.36418db4.362c79e2@aol.com>
<BAY106-W16E22DFBC2FB9432351C6FB02F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <1E211862-C8C8-4E55-93E2-EA3D46C36A54@inkspotco.com>
I would swap distributors if you can. I wonder if the shaft could be
bent just above the plate for the mechanical advance weights.
Yours
Vern
On 20-Oct-08, at 8:02 AM, Steven Dibdin wrote:
>
> Hi Folks,
>
> I wonder if anybody has any ideas what's causing this:
>
> I have a weak spark on the high tension to cyl no.1. The sparks for
> cyl 2-4 are really good, they'll jump a good 1/2" (13mm). I have a
> crane opitcal electronic ignition system fitted. I had the same
> problem with points before I converted, but not so pronounced. I had
> put it down to some possible cam wear in that lobe.
>
> I have swapped spark wires to see if the problem was wire related. I
> have also swapped to a new dissy cap and rotor arm, this would feel
> better for about 3 miles and the trouble would show up again.
> Tracking on the inside of the cap shows a smaller discharge through
> the no.1 contact. The spindle seems to have about 0.5mm (0.020") of
> lateral play, could that be enough to cause this? Also there is no
> scatter on the timing, either with the points or the Crane system.
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Please help!
>
> Cheers,
>
> StevenD
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-
> mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From sdibdin at hotmail.com Mon Oct 20 22:18:06 2008
From: sdibdin at hotmail.com (Steven Dibdin)
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2008 02:18:06 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Weird weak spark problem-Update
In-Reply-To: <1E211862-C8C8-4E55-93E2-EA3D46C36A54@inkspotco.com>
References: <bc6.36418db4.362c79e2@aol.com>
<BAY106-W16E22DFBC2FB9432351C6FB02F0@phx.gbl>
<1E211862-C8C8-4E55-93E2-EA3D46C36A54@inkspotco.com>
Message-ID: <BAY106-W28A75ABAD5140355CEF20DB02E0@phx.gbl>
Hi All,
Thanks for your comments. I spoke with Crane's tech' line today. They were as mystified as me by this. The one though the chap had was there something that the rotor arm coul be shorting out to. This made me think of the stamped metal mounting they supply with the kit. (I wasn't overly happy with the part anyway- it seemed a little light weight) The highest point of the mount is just below the no.1 post on the cap. Sure enough I put some insulation over it and everything was fine! The spark is still a little weaker than the others, so I think I'll machine a plastic mounting for it out of acetal or nylon. See if that finishes the problem off.
The misfire with the points? Turned out I had one of the damper caps cross threaded, that was stoping the front carb's piston from moving freely (doh!).
Cheers all,
Steven
From vern at inkspotco.com Mon Oct 20 23:31:39 2008
From: vern at inkspotco.com (Vern Klukas)
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 20:31:39 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Weird weak spark problem-Update
In-Reply-To: <BAY106-W28A75ABAD5140355CEF20DB02E0@phx.gbl>
References: <bc6.36418db4.362c79e2@aol.com>
<BAY106-W16E22DFBC2FB9432351C6FB02F0@phx.gbl>
<1E211862-C8C8-4E55-93E2-EA3D46C36A54@inkspotco.com>
<BAY106-W28A75ABAD5140355CEF20DB02E0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <940112ED-E28B-4557-82C2-1B516C6E0F8B@inkspotco.com>
Why not just use some high voltage varnish. A motor rewinder could
help you out, or better yet an electronics supply store. "Corona
varnish" falls to mind, but I could be making that up. Maybe it was a
laboratory supply house. Anyway the stuff does exist, I swear.
Two or three coats should do the trick.
Yours
Vern
On 20-Oct-08, at 7:18 PM, Steven Dibdin wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> Thanks for your comments. I spoke with Crane's tech' line today.
> They were as mystified as me by this. The one though the chap had
> was there something that the rotor arm coul be shorting out to. This
> made me think of the stamped metal mounting they supply with the
> kit. (I wasn't overly happy with the part anyway- it seemed a little
> light weight) The highest point of the mount is just below the no.1
> post on the cap. Sure enough I put some insulation over it and
> everything was fine! The spark is still a little weaker than the
> others, so I think I'll machine a plastic mounting for it out of
> acetal or nylon. See if that finishes the problem off.
>
> The misfire with the points? Turned out I had one of the damper caps
> cross threaded, that was stoping the front carb's piston from moving
> freely (doh!).
>
> Cheers all,
>
> Steven
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-
> mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From vmitps at netspace.net.au Tue Oct 21 03:04:09 2008
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2008 18:04:09 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Weird weak spark problem
In-Reply-To: <BAY106-W16E22DFBC2FB9432351C6FB02F0@phx.gbl>
References: <bc6.36418db4.362c79e2@aol.com>
<BAY106-W16E22DFBC2FB9432351C6FB02F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BAEE65F749414FB1BBA583B358611A66@VISTA>
I'd look at the points behaviour, compare 1 to 2.
If the dizzy cam is worn it can easily produce a weak spark.
How did you measure the scatter? On the coil lead?
PVS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steven Dibdin" <sdibdin at hotmail.com>
To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2008 2:02 AM
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Weird weak spark problem
>
> Hi Folks,
>
> I wonder if anybody has any ideas what's causing this:
>
> I have a weak spark on the high tension to cyl no.1. The sparks for cyl
> 2-4 are really good, they'll jump a good 1/2" (13mm). I have a crane
> opitcal electronic ignition system fitted. I had the same problem with
> points before I converted, but not so pronounced. I had put it down to
> some possible cam wear in that lobe.
>
> I have swapped spark wires to see if the problem was wire related. I have
> also swapped to a new dissy cap and rotor arm, this would feel better for
> about 3 miles and the trouble would show up again. Tracking on the inside
> of the cap shows a smaller discharge through the no.1 contact. The spindle
> seems to have about 0.5mm (0.020") of lateral play, could that be enough
> to cause this? Also there is no scatter on the timing, either with the
> points or the Crane system.
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Please help!
>
> Cheers,
>
> StevenD
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From MarkCoorparoo at aol.com Tue Oct 21 08:52:09 2008
From: MarkCoorparoo at aol.com (MarkCoorparoo at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2008 08:52:09 EDT
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Weird weak spark problem
Message-ID: <cdc.3ad3a081.362f2a79@aol.com>
Hi All,
I have read the later replies on this and come back to the
beginning. I can't believe that nobody has come back to the lateral play of the "
Spindle ", ( Dizzy Shaft?) 20 thou. !!! What is the points Gap ? If
the top of the shaft can be moved 20 thou. think about what the cam is doing to
the points and what the rotor is doing to the posts in the dizzy cap. Steve
has a bit of a carbon track around the #1 post. Obviously a bit of Lightning in
there..
I think Steve you have said that you have sorted it but it is not
possible with that much movement in the dizzy bushes. I can't remember if your
gadget is a P4 or a P6, so I am speaking general. P4's pre-date my time on the
spanners and I hardly ever laid one on a P6 2000.
That much bush wear at the top indicates a bigger problem at the bottom.
The bottom bush gets shoved off in one direction by the drive gear. It is
always the same under acceleration but may change under decel., but that doesn't
really matter. Also the type of accessory drive matters. A hex drive tends to
keep the bottom of the dizzy shaft in one spot, altering only as the bottom
bush - hex drive wear in symbiosis. However the blade drive types go all over
the place as the bottom bush wears. Think about what happens as it does its
revolutions!
The top bush tends to wear in one place with the hex drive but the blade
drive just flogs it everywhere. 20 thou movement - how do you set your
points? I haven't even touched on end - float. No, a hint, new points, rubber
block, edge thereof runs on unworn point of dizzy cam for a few days and car goes
GREAT. Then goes back to "normal" . Rubber Block was running on tiny unworn
part of cam, then wore down. Dizzy shaft end float is also a menace. Take dizzy
cap and rotor off, take a pinky or other small finger ( of either hand ) and
insert it in an open part of Dizzy upside down so as you can see your
fingerprints. Once you have gotten the chosen digit pointed at the dizzy cam and
found the pointy bits, you just run your inverted finger nail up and down the cam.
If you find resistance to your human tool near the top of the cam,
obviously, its worn. It is the same as the "Finger-Nail" test on the top of a cylinder
bore BUT, ALL is not LOST. Provided you can get the dizzy rebushed and
get the end float as tight as possible, tighter than original, you can
recycle them old Dizzy shafts.
A worn dizzy cam is never going to give original performance but we can
reuse it, by minimising its affect. First the dizzy has to be as good as
possible. New bushes at least to original specs, shaft built up ground down or
replaced ( if replaced the cam wear issue is solved but at what cost). The end
float issue has to be resolved as tightly as possible without worries of
seizure.
End float in the dizzy changes timing, flogged bushes changes timing from
cylinder to cylinder. There is a fact.
Now for a secret. I will share this with RoverNetters. It was first
given to me when I was just a kid. It was given to me by an old, old mechanic who
had retired after a heart attack and became a Tech Teacher. Won't tell you
his name, because you all would think I was kidding you.
Secret. Take one known good but worn dizzy cap and similiar matching
rotor button for gadget concerned. These are items that otherwise have been
consigned to deep land fill. Find tool box, extract scriber with right angle
end and use that end to remove lightning strike residue from within Dizzy Cap
poles. Find small piece of emery tape and tune up the lead pencil.
Bigger Secret. Take matching Rotor Button and head toward Vice. On
the way, utilise aforementioned Scriber to remove glaze from centre of rotor (
you all know - in the Dimple). Then select 16 to 24 oz Ball Pein Hammer from
tool box. Holding rotor in left hand, place the pointy bit on the left hand
end of the fixed part of your vice and then proceed to tap gently with the ball
end of your hammer on the dead center of the pointy bit. The object is to
expand the end of the pointy bit of brass outwards and downwards so as to close
the gap and find clean metal all round. Finish with the flat end of hammer, then
dress end of rotor with 6 inch fine flat B file.
I can't finish Later maybe . On truck Time. I have given you all part of a
secret. Hope it helps .
Too Tired,
MWJ.
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081021/458aa278/attachment-0001.html>
From sdibdin at hotmail.com Tue Oct 21 11:31:53 2008
From: sdibdin at hotmail.com (Steven Dibdin)
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2008 15:31:53 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Weird weak spark problem RESOLVED!
:-)
In-Reply-To: <cdc.3ad3a081.362f2a79@aol.com>
References: <cdc.3ad3a081.362f2a79@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY106-W17C2F493E71145D6EEC7BBB02E0@phx.gbl>
Hi all,
No points gap on this, it has an optical trigger and shutter wheel. The 0.020" was down to a loose screw secureing the cam to the shaft (lots of little things in there causing these symptoms). No play at the cam now.
The problem was down to the rotor arcing to the opitical trigger's metal mounting not to the no.1 post. I have insulated the mounting and it runs like a sewing machine now. Good strong sprak on all cyliders no hesitation at low revs. I liked Verns suggestion of high voltage insulation lacquer, but I have the equipment to make up something that's little better than the mounting in the kit out of acetal or nylon. To be honest it seemd a bit flimsy when I first looked at it. A shame as the other parts look to be of a good quality.
I'm pretty certain the dizzy itself is fine as I have no discernable scatter visable with the timeing strobe on the timing marks. If there was play in the dissy it would show up here. I have seen this before on other cars, on really bad ones it can be +- 3 degs!
What I had mistaken for a misfire before conversion turned out to be the damper cap on the front carb' this was cross threaded and stopping free movement of the piston. Hence only two cylinders getting fuel above idle. My bad, checking oil in the damper a few weeks ago in the dark and in a hurry.
Bad things were:
1] Loose screw holding cam on shaft (play)
2] Sticking front carb piston causing two cyliders to not perform
3] Arcing inside cap between metal mounting below no.1 post
Mark, thanks for your advise. Even though I have found what I think is the problem(s) here it's good to have these up my sleeve for the next time.
Cheers,
Steven
________________________________
From: MarkCoorparoo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2008 08:52:09 -0400
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Weird weak spark problem
Hi All,
I have read the later replies on this and come back to the beginning. I can't believe that nobody has come back to the lateral play of the " Spindle ", ( Dizzy Shaft?) 20 thou. !!! What is the points Gap ? If the top of the shaft can be moved 20 thou. think about what the cam is doing to the points and what the rotor is doing to the posts in the dizzy cap. Steve has a bit of a carbon track around the #1 post. Obviously a bit of Lightning in there..
I think Steve you have said that you have sorted it but it is not possible with that much movement in the dizzy bushes. I can't remember if your gadget is a P4 or a P6, so I am speaking general. P4's pre-date my time on the spanners and I hardly ever laid one on a P6 2000.
That much bush wear at the top indicates a bigger problem at the bottom. The bottom bush gets shoved off in one direction by the drive gear. It is always the same under acceleration but may change under decel., but that doesn't really matter. Also the type of accessory drive matters. A hex drive tends to keep the bottom of the dizzy shaft in one spot, altering only as the bottom bush - hex drive wear in symbiosis. However the blade drive types go all over the place as the bottom bush wears. Think about what happens as it does its revolutions!
The top bush tends to wear in one place with the hex drive but the blade drive just flogs it everywhere. 20 thou movement - how do you set your points? I haven't even touched on end - float. No, a hint, new points, rubber block, edge thereof runs on unworn point of dizzy cam for a few days and car goes GREAT. Then goes back to "normal" . Rubber Block was running on tiny unworn part of cam, then wore down. Dizzy shaft end float is also a menace. Take dizzy cap and rotor off, take a pinky or other small finger ( of either hand ) and insert it in an open part of Dizzy upside down so as you can see your fingerprints. Once you have gotten the chosen digit pointed at the dizzy cam and found the pointy bits, you just run your inverted finger nail up and down the cam. If you find resistance to your human tool near the top of the cam, obviously, its worn. It is the same as the "Finger-Nail" test on the top of a cylinder bore BUT, ALL is not LOST. Provided you can get the dizzy rebushed and get the end float as tight as possible, tighter than original, you can recycle them old Dizzy shafts.
A worn dizzy cam is never going to give original performance but we can reuse it, by minimising its affect. First the dizzy has to be as good as possible. New bushes at least to original specs, shaft built up ground down or replaced ( if replaced the cam wear issue is solved but at what cost). The end float issue has to be resolved as tightly as possible without worries of seizure.
End float in the dizzy changes timing, flogged bushes changes timing from cylinder to cylinder. There is a fact.
Now for a secret. I will share this with RoverNetters. It was first given to me when I was just a kid. It was given to me by an old, old mechanic who had retired after a heart attack and became a Tech Teacher. Won't tell you his name, because you all would think I was kidding you.
Secret. Take one known good but worn dizzy cap and similiar matching rotor button for gadget concerned. These are items that otherwise have been consigned to deep land fill. Find tool box, extract scriber with right angle end and use that end to remove lightning strike residue from within Dizzy Cap poles. Find small piece of emery tape and tune up the lead pencil.
Bigger Secret. Take matching Rotor Button and head toward Vice. On the way, utilise aforementioned Scriber to remove glaze from centre of rotor ( you all know - in the Dimple). Then select 16 to 24 oz Ball Pein Hammer from tool box. Holding rotor in left hand, place the pointy bit on the left hand end of the fixed part of your vice and then proceed to tap gently with the ball end of your hammer on the dead center of the pointy bit. The object is to expand the end of the pointy bit of brass outwards and downwards so as to close the gap and find clean metal all round. Finish with the flat end of hammer, then dress end of rotor with 6 inch fine flat B file.
I can't finish Later maybe . On truck Time. I have given you all part of a secret. Hope it helps .
Too Tired,
MWJ.
From slatskars at comcast.net Tue Oct 21 23:31:23 2008
From: slatskars at comcast.net (slatskars at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2008 03:31:23 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Weird weak spark problem RESOLVED!
:-)
In-Reply-To: <BAY106-W17C2F493E71145D6EEC7BBB02E0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <1096808006.908341224646283232.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Hi Steven,
Glad that you found your problems. I have been too busy to get on-line and demonstrat my superior knowledge about Lucas dizzy's. Don't kniow that I woul;d have come up with the mounting bit. Good job! I will put that one into my knowledge bank.
Slats
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steven Dibdin" <sdibdin at hotmail.com>
To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2008 8:31:53 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Weird weak spark problem RESOLVED! :-)
Hi all,
No points gap on this, it has an optical trigger and shutter wheel. The 0.020" was down to a loose screw secureing the cam to the shaft (lots of little things in there causing these symptoms). No play at the cam now.
The problem was down to the rotor arcing to the opitical trigger's metal mounting not to the no.1 post. I have insulated the mounting and it runs like a sewing machine now. Good strong sprak on all cyliders no hesitation at low revs. I liked Verns suggestion of high voltage insulation lacquer, but I have the equipment to make up something that's little better than the mounting in the kit out of acetal or nylon. To be honest it seemd a bit flimsy when I first looked at it. A shame as the other parts look to be of a good quality.
I'm pretty certain the dizzy itself is fine as I have no discernable scatter visable with the timeing strobe on the timing marks. If there was play in the dissy it would show up here. I have seen this before on other cars, on really bad ones it can be +- 3 degs!
What I had mistaken for a misfire before conversion turned out to be the damper cap on the front carb' this was cross threaded and stopping free movement of the piston. Hence only two cylinders getting fuel above idle. My bad, checking oil in the damper a few weeks ago in the dark and in a hurry.
Bad things were:
1] Loose screw holding cam on shaft (play)
2] Sticking front carb piston causing two cyliders to not perform
3] Arcing inside cap between metal mounting below no.1 post
Mark, thanks for your advise. Even though I have found what I think is the problem(s) here it's good to have these up my sleeve for the next time.
Cheers,
Steven
________________________________
From: MarkCoorparoo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2008 08:52:09 -0400
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Weird weak spark problem
?? ? Hi All,
?? ? ? ? ? ? ?I have read the later replies on this and come back to the beginning. I can't believe that nobody has come back to the lateral play of the " Spindle ", ( Dizzy Shaft?) ?20 thou. ?!!! ? ?What is the points Gap ? ? If ?the top of the shaft can be moved 20 thou. think about what the cam is doing to the points and what the rotor is doing to the posts in the dizzy cap. Steve has a bit of a carbon track around the #1 post. Obviously a bit of Lightning in there..
?? ? ?I think Steve you have said that you have sorted it but it is not possible with that much movement in the dizzy bushes. I can't remember if your gadget is a P4 or a P6, so I am speaking general. P4's pre-date my time on the spanners and I hardly ever laid one on a P6 2000.
?? ? That much bush wear at the top indicates a bigger problem at the bottom. The bottom bush gets shoved off in one direction by the drive gear. It is always the same under acceleration but may change under decel., but that doesn't really matter. Also the type of accessory drive matters. A hex drive tends to keep the bottom of the dizzy shaft in one spot, altering only as the bottom bush - hex drive wear in symbiosis. However the blade drive types go all over the place as the bottom bush wears. Think about what happens as it does its revolutions!
?? ? The top bush tends to wear in one place with the hex drive but the blade drive just flogs it everywhere. 20 thou movement - how do you set your points? ?I haven't even touched on end - float. No, a hint, new points, rubber block, edge thereof runs on unworn point of dizzy cam for a few days and car goes GREAT. Then goes back to "normal" . ?Rubber Block was running on tiny unworn part of cam, then wore down. Dizzy shaft end float is also a menace. ?Take dizzy cap and rotor off, ?take a pinky or other small finger ( of either hand ) and insert it in an open part of Dizzy upside down so as you can see your fingerprints. Once you have gotten the chosen digit pointed at the dizzy cam and found the pointy bits, you just run your inverted finger nail up and down the cam. If you find resistance to your human tool near the top of the cam, ?obviously, its worn. ?It is the same as the "Finger-Nail" test on the top of a cylinder bore ? ?BUT, ? ALL is not LOST. ? Provided you can get the dizzy rebushed and get the end float as tight as possible, tighter than original, ?you can recycle them old Dizzy shafts.
?? ?A worn dizzy cam is never going to give original performance but we can reuse it, ?by minimising its affect. First the dizzy has to be as good as possible. New bushes at least to original specs, shaft built up ground down or replaced ( if replaced the cam wear issue is solved but at what cost). ? The end float issue has to be resolved as tightly as possible without worries of seizure.
?? End float in the dizzy changes timing, flogged bushes changes timing from cylinder to cylinder. ?There is a fact.
?? ? Now for a secret. I will share this with RoverNetters. It was first given to me when I was just a kid. It was given to me by an old, old mechanic who had retired after a heart attack ?and became a Tech Teacher. Won't tell you his name, because you all would think I was kidding you.
?? ? ? Secret. ? Take one known good but worn dizzy cap and similiar matching rotor button for gadget concerned. These are items that otherwise have been consigned to deep land fill. ?Find tool box, extract scriber with right angle end and use that end to remove lightning strike residue from within Dizzy Cap poles. Find small piece of emery tape and ?tune up the lead pencil.
?? ? ? ?Bigger Secret. ?Take matching Rotor Button and head toward Vice. On the way, utilise aforementioned Scriber to remove glaze from centre of rotor ( you all know - in the Dimple). Then select 16 to 24 oz Ball Pein Hammer from tool box. ?Holding rotor in left hand, place the pointy bit on the left hand end of the fixed part of your vice and then proceed to tap gently with the ball end of your hammer on the dead center of the pointy bit. The object is to expand the end of the pointy bit of brass outwards and downwards so as to close the gap and find clean metal all round. Finish with the flat end of hammer, then dress end of rotor with 6 inch fine flat B file.
?? I can't finish Later maybe . On truck Time. I have given you all part of a secret. Hope it helps .
?? ?Too Tired,
?? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?MWJ.
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081022/ba342d8a/attachment.html>
From peterhut at melbpc.org.au Thu Oct 23 22:28:16 2008
From: peterhut at melbpc.org.au (Peter Huttemeier)
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 13:28:16 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Happy Anniversary P5
Message-ID: <7jc2g4diact80jq0v6h7np98boju5bv3kl@4ax.com>
As I am sure any P5 owners will know, the other day was the 50th
anniversary of the unveiling of the P5 at the London Motor Show on 22
Oct 1958.
To mark the event I have put some photos on RCCA web page of a P5
doing a very unusual thing :
http://www.rovercarclubaust.asn.au/page1.htm
Cheers,
Peter Huttemeier
Webmaster
Rover Car Club of Australia Inc
http://www.rovercarclubaust.asn.au/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/rccapics/
From pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net Fri Oct 24 12:30:51 2008
From: pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net (Pete Holbrook)
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 09:30:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Spark plugs for 1967 P6 TC
In-Reply-To: <7jc2g4diact80jq0v6h7np98boju5bv3kl@4ax.com>
Message-ID: <836484.42295.qm@web83005.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Hello,
Can anyone recommend a current spark type/make to use in my 1967 P6 TC, that I could by in California,
Cheers, Peter
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081024/6539d7cc/attachment.html>
From vern at inkspotco.com Fri Oct 24 12:42:33 2008
From: vern at inkspotco.com (Vern Klukas)
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 09:42:33 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Spark plugs for 1967 P6 TC
In-Reply-To: <836484.42295.qm@web83005.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <836484.42295.qm@web83005.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <36CCB36A-59BD-42E7-B205-567FA51A1BE6@inkspotco.com>
I would suggest NGK platinum plugs, the equivalent of their regular
plug BPR6ES. I don't have the number handy, but it was in a post on
the Rovernet in the past 4 months or so.
The only plugs I would stay away from are Champions, I find their
quality deplorable.
Yours
Vern
On 24-Oct-08, at 9:30 AM, Pete Holbrook wrote:
> Hello,
> Can anyone recommend a current spark type/make to use in my 1967 P6
> TC, that I could by in California,
> Cheers, Peter
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-
> mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081024/1bc2b866/attachment.html>
From pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net Fri Oct 24 14:05:49 2008
From: pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net (Pete Holbrook)
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 11:05:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Spark plugs for 1967 P6 TC
In-Reply-To: <36CCB36A-59BD-42E7-B205-567FA51A1BE6@inkspotco.com>
Message-ID: <838063.26963.qm@web83001.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Thanks Vern!
--- On Fri, 10/24/08, Vern Klukas <vern at inkspotco.com> wrote:
From: Vern Klukas <vern at inkspotco.com>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Spark plugs for 1967 P6 TC
To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Date: Friday, October 24, 2008, 9:42 AM
I would suggest NGK platinum plugs, the equivalent of their regular plug BPR6ES. I don't have the number handy, but it was in a post on the Rovernet in the past 4 months or so.
The only plugs I would stay away from are Champions, I find their quality deplorable.
Yours
Vern
On 24-Oct-08, at 9:30 AM, Pete Holbrook wrote:
Hello,
Can anyone recommend a current spark type/make to use in my 1967 P6 TC, that I could by in California,
Cheers, Peter
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081024/f2bb61b3/attachment.html>
From j_radcliffe at hotmail.com Sat Oct 25 14:41:04 2008
From: j_radcliffe at hotmail.com (James Radcliffe)
Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2008 14:41:04 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover 2000TC plugs
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1.1224950403.15946.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
References: <mailman.1.1224950403.15946.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <BLU140-W28851B0519E4DC5954BFEA8E2A0@phx.gbl>
I am now using NGK BPR6EIX Iridium fine wire plugs, and they work well in my 2000TC. NAPA parts has them, or you can get a set off EBAY for 32 dollars delivered to your letter box. Buy the ones which are not pre gapped and they will work out to come at 0.025 thou.
James
_________________________________________________________________
Store, manage and share up to 5GB with Windows Live SkyDrive.
http://skydrive.live.com/welcome.aspx?provision=1?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_skydrive_102008
From pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net Sat Oct 25 15:12:18 2008
From: pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net (Pete Holbrook)
Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2008 12:12:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover 2000TC plugs
In-Reply-To: <BLU140-W28851B0519E4DC5954BFEA8E2A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <305969.25816.qm@web83005.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Thanks James
--- On Sat, 10/25/08, James Radcliffe <j_radcliffe at hotmail.com> wrote:
From: James Radcliffe <j_radcliffe at hotmail.com>
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover 2000TC plugs
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Date: Saturday, October 25, 2008, 11:41 AM
I am now using NGK BPR6EIX Iridium fine wire plugs, and they work well in my
2000TC. NAPA parts has them, or you can get a set off EBAY for 32 dollars
delivered to your letter box. Buy the ones which are not pre gapped and they
will work out to come at 0.025 thou.
James
_________________________________________________________________
Store, manage and share up to 5GB with Windows Live SkyDrive.
http://skydrive.live.com/welcome.aspx?provision=1?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_skydrive_102008
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081025/6d998006/attachment.html>
From rover2000nut at hotmail.com Sat Oct 25 15:38:18 2008
From: rover2000nut at hotmail.com (Bill Robertson)
Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2008 19:38:18 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Spark plugs for 2000TC
In-Reply-To: <mailman.0.1224950403.15946.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
References: <mailman.0.1224950403.15946.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <BAY119-W1381B14668DCB7145CDA70DE2A0@phx.gbl>
Hi Peter...........
I don't know about California, but i use NKG iridiums in my 69 2000TC.......Nkg BPR6EIX is the number........same as what Vern would have told you but iridium..........some others have said the tips are too small but i've yet too foul one in 2 years running them, and i think they are much peppier than the standard plug..............i never used the platinum version so i can't comment on that........
Roveringly your
Bill RobertsonFrom: rovernet-request at rovernet.caSubject: Rovernet Digest, Vol 4, Issue 23To: rovernet at rovernet.caDate: Sat, 25 Oct 2008 12:00:03 -0400Send Rovernet mailing list submissions to rovernet at rovernet.ca To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.caor, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to rovernet-request at rovernet.ca You can reach the person managing the list at rovernet-owner at rovernet.ca When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specificthan "Re: Contents of Rovernet digest..."--Forwarded Message Attachment--From: pmholbrook at sbcglobal.netTo: rovernet at rovernet.caDate: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 09:30:51 -0700Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Spark plugs for 1967 P6 TC
Hello,
Can anyone recommend a current spark type/make to use in my 1967 P6 TC, that I could by in California,
Cheers, Peter--Forwarded Message Attachment--From: vern at inkspotco.comTo: rovernet at rovernet.caDate: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 09:42:33 -0700Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Spark plugs for 1967 P6 TCI would suggest NGK platinum plugs, the equivalent of their regular plug BPR6ES. I don't have the number handy, but it was in a post on the Rovernet in the past 4 months or so.
The only plugs I would stay away from are Champions, I find their quality deplorable.
Yours
Vern
On 24-Oct-08, at 9:30 AM, Pete Holbrook wrote:
Hello,
Can anyone recommend a current spark type/make to use in my 1967 P6 TC, that I could by in California,
Cheers, Peter_______________________________________________Rovernet mailing listRovernet at rovernet.caHere is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.caHere is the old Rovernet archives:http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/Join the Back-up list and post photos at:http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/--Forwarded Message Attachment--From: pmholbrook at sbcglobal.netTo: rovernet at rovernet.caDate: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 11:05:49 -0700Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Spark plugs for 1967 P6 TC
Thanks Vern!--- On Fri, 10/24/08, Vern Klukas <vern at inkspotco.com> wrote:
From: Vern Klukas <vern at inkspotco.com>Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Spark plugs for 1967 P6 TCTo: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>Date: Friday, October 24, 2008, 9:42 AM
I would suggest NGK platinum plugs, the equivalent of their regular plug BPR6ES. I don't have the number handy, but it was in a post on the Rovernet in the past 4 months or so.
The only plugs I would stay away from are Champions, I find their quality deplorable.
Yours
Vern
On 24-Oct-08, at 9:30 AM, Pete Holbrook wrote:
Hello,
Can anyone recommend a current spark type/make to use in my 1967 P6 TC, that I could by in California,
Cheers, Peter_______________________________________________Rovernet mailing listRovernet at rovernet.caHere is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.caHere is the old Rovernet archives:http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/Join the Back-up list and post photos at:http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/_______________________________________________Rovernet mailing listRovernet at rovernet.caHere is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.caHere is the old Rovernet archives:http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/Join the Back-up list and post photos at:http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
_________________________________________________________________
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081025/a16beefe/attachment.html>
From RoverP6 at gmx.de Sat Oct 25 17:37:20 2008
From: RoverP6 at gmx.de (RoverP6 at gmx.de)
Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2008 23:37:20 +0200
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P6 3500 convertible by Chapron
References: <18833670.1223631392772.JavaMail.root@nschwwebs03p>
Message-ID: <FD8B9E98DB7C4744BD2280D2C1B6A17B@rw>
See my site http://www.roverp6.info/Fotos/Chapron/Chapron_GB.htm
Rudiger
From fjcumberland at yahoo.com Sat Oct 25 20:21:41 2008
From: fjcumberland at yahoo.com (Jim Cumberland)
Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2008 17:21:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P6 3500 convertible by Chapron
Message-ID: <326308.76464.qm@web34201.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Cool!! Thanks Rudiger
________________________________
From: "RoverP6 at gmx.de" <RoverP6 at gmx.de>
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts. <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Saturday, October 25, 2008 5:37:20 PM
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P6 3500 convertible by Chapron
See my site http://www.roverp6.info/Fotos/Chapron/Chapron_GB.htm
Rudiger
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081025/e47346d8/attachment.html>
From vern at inkspotco.com Sat Oct 25 21:46:06 2008
From: vern at inkspotco.com (Vern Klukas)
Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2008 18:46:06 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Spark plugs for 2000TC
In-Reply-To: <BAY119-W1381B14668DCB7145CDA70DE2A0@phx.gbl>
References: <mailman.0.1224950403.15946.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
<BAY119-W1381B14668DCB7145CDA70DE2A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <269BEF21-06D5-4F11-BA3F-1050E0351CF7@inkspotco.com>
Perhaps I should of said "fine wire electrode" plugs. Fine wires are
out of necessity from one the platinum group of metals for durability,
so in my mind they are all platinum. The current flavour is iridium
(with some good reason, actually, it is the most corrosion proof metal
around. The problem had been it is extremely hard and it's tough
fabricating the stuff, something obviously solved now), and the EIX
plug number was what I meant, even if it's not what I wrote.
I've been using fine tips since the mid-70's, always with excellent
results, starting with my first car which was a Sunbeam Imp.
The peppiness you notice is them never fouling up "a little bit", as
the TC is always on the verge of fouling under light throttle. They
also conduct at a slightly lower voltage, so if you have a standard
points ignition that can make a noticeable difference as well.
Yours
Vern
On 25-Oct-08, at 12:38 PM, Bill Robertson wrote:
> Hi Peter...........
>
> I don't know about California, but i use NKG
> iridiums in my 69 2000TC.......Nkg BPR6EIX is the number........same
> as what Vern would have told you but iridium..........some others
> have said the tips are too small but i've yet too foul one in 2
> years running them, and i think they are much peppier than the
> standard plug..............i never used the platinum version so i
> can't comment on that........
>
> Roveringly your
> Bill Robertson
>
> From: rovernet-request at rovernet.ca
> Subject: Rovernet Digest, Vol 4, Issue 23
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2008 12:00:03 -0400
>
>
> Send Rovernet mailing list submissions to
> rovernet at rovernet.ca
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> rovernet-request at rovernet.ca
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> rovernet-owner at rovernet.ca
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Rovernet digest..."
>
>
> --Forwarded Message Attachment--
> From: pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 09:30:51 -0700
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Spark plugs for 1967 P6 TC
>
> Hello,
>
> Can anyone recommend a current spark type/make to use in my 1967 P6
> TC, that I could by in California,
>
> Cheers, Peter
>
>
>
> --Forwarded Message Attachment--
> From: vern at inkspotco.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 09:42:33 -0700
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Spark plugs for 1967 P6 TC
>
> I would suggest NGK platinum plugs, the equivalent of their regular
> plug BPR6ES. I don't have the number handy, but it was in a post on
> the Rovernet in the past 4 months or so.
>
> The only plugs I would stay away from are Champions, I find their
> quality deplorable.
>
> Yours
> Vern
>
> On 24-Oct-08, at 9:30 AM, Pete Holbrook wrote:
>
> Hello,
> Can anyone recommend a current spark type/make to use in my 1967 P6
> TC, that I could by in California,
> Cheers, Peter
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-
> mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
>
> --Forwarded Message Attachment--
> From: pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 11:05:49 -0700
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Spark plugs for 1967 P6 TC
>
> Thanks Vern!
>
> --- On Fri, 10/24/08, Vern Klukas <vern at inkspotco.com> wrote:
>
> From: Vern Klukas <vern at inkspotco.com>
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Spark plugs for 1967 P6 TC
> To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca
> >
> Date: Friday, October 24, 2008, 9:42 AM
>
>
> I would suggest NGK platinum plugs, the equivalent of their regular
> plug BPR6ES. I don't have the number handy, but it was in a post on
> the Rovernet in the past 4 months or so.
>
>
> The only plugs I would stay away from are Champions, I find their
> quality deplorable.
>
>
>
> Yours
>
> Vern
>
>
>
>
> On 24-Oct-08, at 9:30 AM, Pete Holbrook wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Hello,
>
> Can anyone recommend a current spark type/make to use in my 1967 P6
> TC, that I could by in California,
>
> Cheers, Peter
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-
> mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-
> mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-
> mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081025/944bf727/attachment-0001.html>
From slatskars at comcast.net Sat Oct 25 23:50:01 2008
From: slatskars at comcast.net (slatskars at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2008 03:50:01 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Spark plugs for 2000TC
In-Reply-To: <BAY119-W1381B14668DCB7145CDA70DE2A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <1970012277.1439151224993001948.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
I just changed the plugs in our 92 Toyota Previa (minivan) for the second? time. The first was at 99,000 miles and this time at 206,000 miles. The last set was Bosh platinum. The original set were also platinum, but I don't remember the brand. It is a real chore to change these as it is a mid-engine. The passenger seat mus be removed, plus a large acess cover and a second partial cover built into the valve cover. The plugs are recessed about five inches deep too. I had to remove the rubber insert in my spark plug socket in order to get the scoket off of the plug after installing them. The extension would release, but not the socket. It is aboput a two hour job to change plugs on these cars. I can understand why platinum! I miss-read the owners manual. They were to be changed at 100,000 kilometers not miles. It still passes every smog check with flying colors.
Slats
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Robertson" <rover2000nut at hotmail.com>
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Sent: Saturday, October 25, 2008 12:38:18 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Spark plugs for 2000TC
www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/ Join the Back-up list and post photos at: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081026/cbb0dabb/attachment.html>
From MarkCoorparoo at aol.com Sun Oct 26 00:16:03 2008
From: MarkCoorparoo at aol.com (MarkCoorparoo at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2008 00:16:03 EDT
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Recently Sold Rovers.
Message-ID: <bc9.3cc29188.36354903@aol.com>
Hi All,
Watching the Indy Car Race down the coast ( on the other
screen ) and reading Aussie Classic Car at the same time, I came across an adv. for
Rainsfords down in south Oz.
They have recently sold three Rovers. One was a 105R Auto that they were
asking $6,950 Oz for. With the recent plummet of the Oz Dollar back almost to
Pacific Peso status that would be about $4,500 US.
Another one was a 1974 White, Tan Trim P6b, alledgedly perfect. Might be
of interest to Rudiger, the website lists the rego number.
The site is, www.rcc.on.net Just go to the recently sold tab.
Regards,
MWJ.
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081026/dce6587e/attachment.html>
From pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net Mon Oct 27 12:06:25 2008
From: pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net (Pete Holbrook)
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2008 09:06:25 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Spark plugs for 2000TC
In-Reply-To: <269BEF21-06D5-4F11-BA3F-1050E0351CF7@inkspotco.com>
Message-ID: <702928.13499.qm@web83002.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Thanks for the info, cheers Peter
--- On Sat, 10/25/08, Vern Klukas <vern at inkspotco.com> wrote:
From: Vern Klukas <vern at inkspotco.com>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Spark plugs for 2000TC
To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Date: Saturday, October 25, 2008, 6:46 PM
Perhaps I should of said "fine wire electrode" plugs. Fine wires are out of necessity from one the platinum group of metals for durability, so in?my mind they are all platinum. The current flavour is iridium (with some good reason, actually, it is the most corrosion proof metal around. The problem had been it is extremely hard and it's tough fabricating the stuff, something obviously solved now), and the EIX plug number was what I meant, even if it's not what I wrote.
I've been using fine tips since the mid-70's, always with excellent results, starting with my first car which was a Sunbeam Imp.
The peppiness you notice is them never fouling up "a little bit", as the TC is always on the verge of fouling under light throttle. They also conduct at a slightly lower voltage, so if you have a standard points ignition that can make a noticeable difference as well.
Yours
Vern
On 25-Oct-08, at 12:38 PM, Bill Robertson wrote:
Hi Peter...........
?
??????????????????? I don't know about California, but i use NKG iridiums in my 69 2000TC.......Nkg BPR6EIX is the number........same as what? Vern would have told you but iridium..........some others have said the tips are too small but i've yet too foul one in 2 years running them, and i think they are much peppier than the standard plug..............i never used the platinum version so i can't comment on that........
?
Roveringly your
Bill Robertson
From:?rovernet-request at rovernet.ca
Subject: Rovernet Digest, Vol 4, Issue 23
To:?rovernet at rovernet.ca
Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2008 12:00:03 -0400
Send Rovernet mailing list submissions to
rovernet at rovernet.ca
To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
rovernet-request at rovernet.ca
You can reach the person managing the list at
rovernet-owner at rovernet.ca
When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of Rovernet digest..."
--Forwarded Message Attachment--
From:?pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net
To:?rovernet at rovernet.ca
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 09:30:51 -0700
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Spark plugs for 1967 P6 TC
Hello,
Can anyone recommend a current spark type/make to use in my 1967 P6 TC, that I could by in California,
Cheers, Peter
--Forwarded Message Attachment--
From:?vern at inkspotco.com
To:?rovernet at rovernet.ca
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 09:42:33 -0700
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Spark plugs for 1967 P6 TC
I would suggest NGK platinum plugs, the equivalent of their regular plug BPR6ES. I don't have the number handy, but it was in a post on the Rovernet in the past 4 months or so.
The only plugs I would stay away from are Champions, I find their quality deplorable.
Yours
Vern
On 24-Oct-08, at 9:30 AM, Pete Holbrook wrote:
Hello,
Can anyone recommend a current spark type/make to use in my 1967 P6 TC, that I could by in California,
Cheers, Peter
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
--Forwarded Message Attachment--
From:?pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net
To:?rovernet at rovernet.ca
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 11:05:49 -0700
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Spark plugs for 1967 P6 TC
Thanks Vern!
--- On?Fri, 10/24/08, Vern Klukas?<vern at inkspotco.com>?wrote:
From: Vern Klukas <vern at inkspotco.com>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Spark plugs for 1967 P6 TC
To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Date: Friday, October 24, 2008, 9:42 AM
I would suggest NGK platinum plugs, the equivalent of their regular plug BPR6ES. I don't have the number handy, but it was in a post on the Rovernet in the past 4 months or so.
The only plugs I would stay away from are Champions, I find their quality deplorable.
Yours
Vern
On 24-Oct-08, at 9:30 AM, Pete Holbrook wrote:
Hello,
Can anyone recommend a current spark type/make to use in my 1967 P6 TC, that I could by in California,
Cheers, Peter
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081027/6fcb8cf0/attachment.html>
From rover2000nut at hotmail.com Mon Oct 27 20:49:15 2008
From: rover2000nut at hotmail.com (Bill Robertson)
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2008 00:49:15 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover V8 parts
Message-ID: <BAY119-W4946B61355C73CAAAAA459DE270@phx.gbl>
I have a few goodies in my Rover treasure trove i need to clear out..........i'll put them up for sale on here first and if no one wants i'll throw them on Ebay
I have a new high volume water pump for Rover V8's......I guessing SD1's and any LR, TVR, Morgan etc..........doesn't fit the 3500S with viscous fan......fits engine of course but you'd have to get different pulleys...........$100.00
Also a brand new Kent H218 sports camshaft for same Rover V8 3.5L thru to 5.0L............Highest cam you can use without machining spring seats the specs are 278-284duration 112degrees full lift good for 32bhp increase........
anymore....see the KENT cam website........$125.00
Thanks
Bill Robertson
_________________________________________________________________
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081028/41b03d52/attachment.html>
From rwacek at comcast.net Tue Oct 28 00:48:01 2008
From: rwacek at comcast.net (rwacek at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2008 04:48:01 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 2000 TC Brake/Clutch Reservoir Float
Switch
Message-ID: <102820080448.18780.490699810007D6C80000495C2215586394050A0C0E999D@comcast.net>
What do you guys do when this needs replacement? Mine needs to be topped off nearly to the top or the dash light goes on.
From p6rovers at yahoo.com Tue Oct 28 00:56:05 2008
From: p6rovers at yahoo.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2008 21:56:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 2000 TC Brake/Clutch Reservoir Float
Switch
In-Reply-To: <102820080448.18780.490699810007D6C80000495C2215586394050A0C0E999D@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <242604.74328.qm@web34306.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Sounds like the cork has been saturated.
Prescription:
Purchase a nice bottle of red or white wine from a reputable winery that uses real cork.
Remove the top cover of the reservoir and place it on your work bench.
Using a box cutter or other sharp blade, slit the cork lengthwise and remove from the metal rod on which it sits.
Slit the new cork in the same manner.
Obtain some strong glue like Superglue or epoxy that will survive brake fluid.
Fit the new cork along the rod for the reservoir switch and glue the edges of the cork together.
After the glue drying, replace the reservoir top.
The cork should be more buoyant and will activate the switch more sensitively.
Drink the wine to celebrate your successful DIY project :-))
Eric
Webmaster of The Rover Car Club of Canada
Website: http://www.roverclub.ca/
Webmaster of a variety of sites from:
http://www.websrus.ca
--- On Mon, 10/27/08, rwacek at comcast.net <rwacek at comcast.net> wrote:
> From: rwacek at comcast.net <rwacek at comcast.net>
> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 2000 TC Brake/Clutch Reservoir Float Switch
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Monday, October 27, 2008, 9:48 PM
> What do you guys do when this needs replacement? Mine needs
> to be topped off nearly to the top or the dash light goes
> on.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest
> mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From vern at inkspotco.com Tue Oct 28 01:04:52 2008
From: vern at inkspotco.com (Vern Klukas)
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2008 22:04:52 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 2000 TC Brake/Clutch Reservoir Float
Switch
In-Reply-To: <242604.74328.qm@web34306.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <242604.74328.qm@web34306.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CACCA0BA-9B10-4E77-A35D-936B4C6F853D@inkspotco.com>
Wines with synthetic corks work also. Screw caps are right out,
obviously.
Yours
Vern
On 27-Oct-08, at 9:56 PM, Eric Russell wrote:
> Sounds like the cork has been saturated.
> Prescription:
> Purchase a nice bottle of red or white wine from a reputable winery
> that uses real cork.
>
> Remove the top cover of the reservoir and place it on your work bench.
> Using a box cutter or other sharp blade, slit the cork lengthwise
> and remove from the metal rod on which it sits.
>
> Slit the new cork in the same manner.
>
> Obtain some strong glue like Superglue or epoxy that will survive
> brake fluid.
>
> Fit the new cork along the rod for the reservoir switch and glue the
> edges of the cork together.
>
> After the glue drying, replace the reservoir top.
> The cork should be more buoyant and will activate the switch more
> sensitively.
>
> Drink the wine to celebrate your successful DIY project :-))
>
> Eric
>
>
>
> Webmaster of The Rover Car Club of Canada
> Website: http://www.roverclub.ca/
> Webmaster of a variety of sites from:
> http://www.websrus.ca
>
>
> --- On Mon, 10/27/08, rwacek at comcast.net <rwacek at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> From: rwacek at comcast.net <rwacek at comcast.net>
>> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 2000 TC Brake/Clutch Reservoir
>> Float Switch
>> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> Date: Monday, October 27, 2008, 9:48 PM
>> What do you guys do when this needs replacement? Mine needs
>> to be topped off nearly to the top or the dash light goes
>> on.
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Rovernet mailing list
>> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest
>> mode or no-mail:
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
>> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
>> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-
> mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From slatskars at comcast.net Tue Oct 28 16:07:56 2008
From: slatskars at comcast.net (slatskars at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2008 20:07:56 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 2000 TC Brake/Clutch Reservoir Float
Switch
In-Reply-To: <102820080448.18780.490699810007D6C80000495C2215586394050A0C0E999D@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <788452535.1821971225224476808.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
They are a pretty simple device and can be repaired. I repaired the one on my P-5 by replcing the screw on rim portion with a new one manufactured from the lid of a can of PVS primer. I used a block of wood sized to fit inside the screw on lid to reinforce it while I cut it on a lathe, but you could do it with a sharp and sturdy knife.
Slats
----- Original Message -----
From: rwacek at comcast.net
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Sent: Monday, October 27, 2008 9:48:01 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 2000 TC Brake/Clutch Reservoir Float Switch
What do you guys do when this needs replacement? Mine needs to be topped off nearly to the top or the dash light goes on.
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081028/f80d5d66/attachment.html>
From denlet at wanadoo.fr Wed Oct 29 18:41:16 2008
From: denlet at wanadoo.fr (denlet)
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2008 23:41:16 +0100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] =?iso-8859-1?q?Rover_P6_d_=E9_couvrabl?=
=?iso-8859-1?q?e_Chapron?=
In-Reply-To: <mailman.8.1224985561.18374.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <C52EA51C.615A%denlet@wanadoo.fr>
Bonjour,
The car made by the coachbuilder CHAPRON (1919 1985 ) is owned by a friend
in Paris.
The price for Chapron's work in 1973 is the same that the price of the new
car.
You can see with GOOGLE the cars of Chapron, if you write" carrossier
Chapron".
He used to do the special cars for the presidents of France.The well known
is perhaps the citroen Sm Mylord.
The cost of a good restoration for the P6, made by a professional, was very
expensive.It's the reason why my friend , who work himself on his cars for
his pleasure, can finish it with a reasonable cost.
best regards denis
> Message: 4
> Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2008 23:37:20 +0200
> From: <RoverP6 at gmx.de>
> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P6 3500 convertible by Chapron
> To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts."
> <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Message-ID: <FD8B9E98DB7C4744BD2280D2C1B6A17B at rw>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> reply-type=original
>
>
> See my site http://www.roverp6.info/Fotos/Chapron/Chapron_GB.htm
>
>
> Rudiger
>
From rover2000nut at hotmail.com Thu Oct 30 14:44:06 2008
From: rover2000nut at hotmail.com (Bill Robertson)
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2008 18:44:06 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] =?iso-8859-1?q?Rover_P6_d_=E9_couvrabl?=
=?iso-8859-1?q?e_Chapron?=
Message-ID: <BAY119-W1235F44A78471EE5CC6223DE210@phx.gbl>
I see these cars, like the Chapron car and marvel at the work put into them only to see them later in wild states of disrepair..........How do they get into this shape.........I've left cars sitting for years but have still took time to make sure they stay clean inside, make sure the mice haven't got in etc......it boggles my mind to think that the 2000TC i have talked about before; that was restored by the Guild here in Bradford Ontario for a cost of well over $100,000.00(egad i shiver thinking about putting that kind of money into a TC worth on a real good day close to $10,000.00..... MAYBE) Am i going to see this car 25 years from now on a flatbed looking like ones i've stripped and took to the wreckers..........Maybe its just me, but most of the Rovers you see are in this sorry state.............probably owing to the fact they are not worth much(other than to us)...........Here's hoping the Chapron car can regain its once regal state, regardless of whether you like what was done and that more of the Rovers around can be brought back to life and not just vermin havens in some field............Okay now going out to garage to aggravate myself some more rebuilding this 3500S.........LOL.........but i still love it
Rovers forever
Bill Robertson
_________________________________________________________________
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081030/ff7a39b6/attachment.html>
From roverfreak619 at yahoo.com Thu Oct 30 23:55:35 2008
From: roverfreak619 at yahoo.com (nelson oriley)
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2008 20:55:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 2 p6 rover sell Southern California
Message-ID: <836506.62981.qm@web56107.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
I have 2 Rover's for sell both are P6 TC 2000's with A/C yellow/green
pics below from photo bucket,,,i sell for a good cheap price if buying both,,, From Nelson O' 619-925-5538
roverfreak619 at yahoo.com
http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/20479588
http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/20479706/333265600
From rover2000nut at hotmail.com Fri Oct 31 16:13:10 2008
From: rover2000nut at hotmail.com (Bill Robertson)
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2008 20:13:10 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3500S or 2000 Brakes for that matter
Message-ID: <BAY119-W43BA7B0ED618C0B88E4E18DE200@phx.gbl>
I've got a leak in the hose from the booster to the air diapragm..........what would be the best hose to use for this to connect the lines under the motor to the booster and to the mastercyl...............and then what is best for the brake fluid reservoirs to the master and slave cyl......straight rubber hose , or neoprene or what
Thanks
Bill Robertson
_________________________________________________________________
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081031/c942f24f/attachment.html>
From RoverP6 at gmx.de Fri Oct 31 16:25:13 2008
From: RoverP6 at gmx.de (RoverP6 at gmx.de)
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2008 21:25:13 +0100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover homologation
References: <836506.62981.qm@web56107.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CC092C74173E44D69D40E62C445D247A@rw>
I?ve got this request:
"My 1970 P6 3500S is registered in your directory. Thank you for maintaining the data,.
It is time to start restoration. With rising fuel prices, using the resultant car as a
daily driver with be fuelish. So I would like to re- create one with the FIA permitted
modifications. I have contacted FIA-USA and they have no records of the homologation data
for Rover Rally or Race cars, but the FIA -Europe and FIA-USA websites do list the record
numbers (eg 5288, 5779,1517, 1532, 5078 5080). I have been unable to get a response from
FIA-Rover race/ rally cars Europe.
One often sees online mention of Rover race/ rally cars , but only one or two compete in
the British Classic Touring Car Racing Club. And, the CSCCGB rules apparently diverge
from the old FIA.
In your data base, do you have copies of the FIA homologation regulations as applicable
to Rover P6?"
As I don?t have such copies etc. - any idea / advice ?
Rudiger
www.RoverP6.info
From phing at videotron.ca Fri Oct 31 17:50:19 2008
From: phing at videotron.ca (Patrick Hiron)
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2008 17:50:19 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3500S or 2000 Brakes for that matter
In-Reply-To: <BAY119-W43BA7B0ED618C0B88E4E18DE200@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY119-W43BA7B0ED618C0B88E4E18DE200@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000c01c93ba2$aaec6690$00c533b0$@ca>
Bill
Glad you found the problem . I Used vacuum hose from my local Canton Auto
parts store for every thing . The old problem with ancient British brakes
was the seals were unable to tolerate modern brake fluids . There seems to
be np problem with post 1950 brakes and conventional DOT3 . DON"T use
silicone fluid , most older brakes , including Rolls Royce, are not
compatible
Cheers Patrick
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Bill Robertson
Sent: Friday, October 31, 2008 4:13 PM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3500S or 2000 Brakes for that matter
I've got a leak in the hose from the booster to the air
diapragm..........what would be the best hose to use for this to connect the
lines under the motor to the booster and to the mastercyl...............and
then what is best for the brake fluid reservoirs to the master and slave
cyl......straight rubber hose , or neoprene or what
Thanks
Bill Robertson
_____
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20081031/08cd8c7a/attachment.html>
From sdibdin at hotmail.com Fri Oct 31 18:06:57 2008
From: sdibdin at hotmail.com (Steven Dibdin)
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2008 22:06:57 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3500S or 2000 Brakes for that matter
In-Reply-To: <000c01c93ba2$aaec6690$00c533b0$@ca>
References: <BAY119-W43BA7B0ED618C0B88E4E18DE200@phx.gbl>
<000c01c93ba2$aaec6690$00c533b0$@ca>
Message-ID: <BAY106-W18E514487F18236CA339AEB0200@phx.gbl>
Hi Bill,
I'd add to Phil's note by stating you should only use DOT 4 fluid. I have seen degradation of seals with DOT 3 in the past.
Cheers,
Steven
From fmcardle at suffolk.lib.ny.us Fri Oct 31 19:18:49 2008
From: fmcardle at suffolk.lib.ny.us (McArdle)
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2008 19:18:49 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3500S or 2000 Brakes for that matter
In-Reply-To: <000c01c93ba2$aaec6690$00c533b0$@ca>
References: <BAY119-W43BA7B0ED618C0B88E4E18DE200@phx.gbl>
<000c01c93ba2$aaec6690$00c533b0$@ca>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0810311745240.24593@bookworm.suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Hi Rover people,
I've been on this list for a long time but have not sent out very
many messages.
I have been involved with Rovers myself since 1968 and have been
a dealer on and off ever since. The original dealership that I purchased
started in the Rover business in 1949 in NYC . I also purchased the rights
to a dealership in Southampton NY, at that time known as John Grattan Inc.
so you can see I've been around the Rover block a few times. I was also a
Rootes dealer until Chrysler screwed that up and they left the US.
Sooooo
here's the story on brake fluid and british cars.
The seals in british car brake systems up until VERY recently were
natural rubber and therefore very different from synthetic ( American)
rubber seals.
Castrol or Lockheed brake fluid is vegetable based and has an
additive package that works with the British rubber seals.
American ( or other country) brake fluid is mineral based and tends
top soften and swell the British seals.
Dot 3 or 4 or 5 has nothing to do with the composition of the brake
fluid but much more to do with the boiling point of the fluid both water
saturated and not saturated.
Yes thats right water saturated. Brake fluid absorbs water , as it's
supposed to. Some more than others. Castrol fluid that is commonly sold
is called LMA for a reason, it stands for Low Moisture activity. There is
a trade off between getting the water into suspension in the brake fluid
and boiling point of that same fluid. Too much water and the fluid boils
and thats not good but not enough water in suspension and you can have
actual pockets of moisture in the system and that doesn't really work
either. What to do??
Use only Castrol or Lockheed fluid in British cars, PERIOD!! Change it
frequently, remember it is absorbing all the time not just when you drive.
Silicone fluid is chemically nonreactive with all brake systems and
makes the internal parts last virtually forever. ( Developed for the
military) It's also perfectly safe if it spills on the painted surface.
Regualr brake fluid is a great paint remover , silicone only sits there!!
Only problem is that it absorbs NO water sooo all that condensation is in
there forever if you don't change it regularly.
Silicone also needs to be put in from a VERY calm container because it
will hold microscopic bubbles for a very long time and make the pedal feel
a bit softer than your used to. What to do ??
I use Castol or Lockheed in the brake system and flush at least every
2 years , more often if the brake fluid gets very dark, ( the darker the
more water is in it) . I use silicone in hyraulic clutch systems and they
seem to last forever.
Remember Castol/Lockheed fluid in anything, American fluid not in
British cars ever.
If you've got any questions drop me a line and I'll be glad to chat.
There is actually alot more to it than just whats above. Hi performance
fluids, flushing etc.
Pete McArdle fmcardle at suffolk.lib.ny.us
On Fri, 31 Oct 2008, Patrick Hiron wrote:
> Bill
>
> Glad you found the problem . I Used vacuum hose from my local Canton Auto
> parts store for every thing . The old problem with ancient British brakes
> was the seals were unable to tolerate modern brake fluids . There seems to
> be np problem with post 1950 brakes and conventional DOT3 . DON"T use
> silicone fluid , most older brakes , including Rolls Royce, are not
> compatible
>
> Cheers Patrick
>
>
>
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
> Behalf Of Bill Robertson
> Sent: Friday, October 31, 2008 4:13 PM
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3500S or 2000 Brakes for that matter
>
>
>
> I've got a leak in the hose from the booster to the air
> diapragm..........what would be the best hose to use for this to connect the
> lines under the motor to the booster and to the mastercyl...............and
> then what is best for the brake fluid reservoirs to the master and slave
> cyl......straight rubber hose , or neoprene or what
>
> Thanks
> Bill Robertson
>
> _____
>
>
From phing at videotron.ca Fri Oct 31 23:12:42 2008
From: phing at videotron.ca (Patrick Hiron)
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2008 23:12:42 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3500S or 2000 Silicone brake fluid
was Brakes for that matter
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0810311745240.24593@bookworm.suffolk.lib.ny.us>
References: <BAY119-W43BA7B0ED618C0B88E4E18DE200@phx.gbl>
<000c01c93ba2$aaec6690$00c533b0$@ca>
<Pine.LNX.4.64.0810311745240.24593@bookworm.suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Message-ID: <000001c93bcf$b45a84f0$1d0f8ed0$@ca>
Hi
There seem to be three schools of thought on brake fluids for British cars.
Here's my 10 cents worth to start the debate !!
1 Silicone fluid is or is not OK '/
The new OEM Master cylinder I just installed on my P6B was made by Lockheed
/ Girling / Lucas whoever owns the remains of the British parts business.
The instructions said , in very large letters " DO NOT use silicone brake
fluid, it is not compatible with the seals "
White Post who rebuilt my P3 brake cylinders also specified silicone fluid
should not be used . I've seen the same statement from Rolls Royce and the
MG Owners Club
North American standard brake fluid is / is not OK
White post had no problems with normal US brake fluids I gave up trying to
find Castrol brake fluid in North America years ago . I've used standard N
American brake fluids in English cars for the last 25 years and had no
problems with swelling seals, funny brakes etc
Castrol brake fluid [ is it really still vegetable oil based in 2008??] is
the only safe fluid to use
I doubt that castor oil would meet the boiling point specs of modern brake
fluids .I suspect that Castrol stopped using Castor oil as a base for their
brake fluid at about the same time as they abandoned Castor oil as the base
for their every day automobile engine oils . I do remember the lovely
smell from the exhaust pipes of cars and motor bikes using Castrol R the
last castor oil based motor oil.
Cheers
Patrick.
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of McArdle
Sent: Friday, October 31, 2008 7:19 PM
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3500S or 2000 Brakes for that matter
Hi Rover people,
I've been on this list for a long time but have not sent out very
many messages.
I have been involved with Rovers myself since 1968 and have been
a dealer on and off ever since. The original dealership that I purchased
started in the Rover business in 1949 in NYC . I also purchased the rights
to a dealership in Southampton NY, at that time known as John Grattan Inc.
so you can see I've been around the Rover block a few times. I was also a
Rootes dealer until Chrysler screwed that up and they left the US.
Sooooo
here's the story on brake fluid and british cars.
The seals in british car brake systems up until VERY recently were
natural rubber and therefore very different from synthetic ( American)
rubber seals.
Castrol or Lockheed brake fluid is vegetable based and has an
additive package that works with the British rubber seals.
American ( or other country) brake fluid is mineral based and tends
top soften and swell the British seals.
Dot 3 or 4 or 5 has nothing to do with the composition of the brake
fluid but much more to do with the boiling point of the fluid both water
saturated and not saturated.
Yes thats right water saturated. Brake fluid absorbs water , as it's
supposed to. Some more than others. Castrol fluid that is commonly sold
is called LMA for a reason, it stands for Low Moisture activity. There is
a trade off between getting the water into suspension in the brake fluid
and boiling point of that same fluid. Too much water and the fluid boils
and thats not good but not enough water in suspension and you can have
actual pockets of moisture in the system and that doesn't really work
either. What to do??
Use only Castrol or Lockheed fluid in British cars, PERIOD!! Change it
frequently, remember it is absorbing all the time not just when you drive.
Silicone fluid is chemically nonreactive with all brake systems and
makes the internal parts last virtually forever. ( Developed for the
military) It's also perfectly safe if it spills on the painted surface.
Regualr brake fluid is a great paint remover , silicone only sits there!!
Only problem is that it absorbs NO water sooo all that condensation is in
there forever if you don't change it regularly.
Silicone also needs to be put in from a VERY calm container because it
will hold microscopic bubbles for a very long time and make the pedal feel
a bit softer than your used to. What to do ??
I use Castol or Lockheed in the brake system and flush at least every
2 years , more often if the brake fluid gets very dark, ( the darker the
more water is in it) . I use silicone in hyraulic clutch systems and they
seem to last forever.
Remember Castol/Lockheed fluid in anything, American fluid not in
British cars ever.
If you've got any questions drop me a line and I'll be glad to chat.
There is actually alot more to it than just whats above. Hi performance
fluids, flushing etc.
Pete McArdle fmcardle at suffolk.lib.ny.us
On Fri, 31 Oct 2008, Patrick Hiron wrote:
> Bill
>
> Glad you found the problem . I Used vacuum hose from my local Canton Auto
> parts store for every thing . The old problem with ancient British brakes
> was the seals were unable to tolerate modern brake fluids . There seems to
> be np problem with post 1950 brakes and conventional DOT3 . DON"T use
> silicone fluid , most older brakes , including Rolls Royce, are not
> compatible
>
> Cheers Patrick
>
>
>
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
On
> Behalf Of Bill Robertson
> Sent: Friday, October 31, 2008 4:13 PM
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3500S or 2000 Brakes for that matter
>
>
>
> I've got a leak in the hose from the booster to the air
> diapragm..........what would be the best hose to use for this to connect
the
> lines under the motor to the booster and to the
mastercyl...............and
> then what is best for the brake fluid reservoirs to the master and slave
> cyl......straight rubber hose , or neoprene or what
>
> Thanks
> Bill Robertson
>
> _____
>
>
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/