>
From peter_m at amnet.net.au  Tue Dec  1 03:30:09 2009
From: peter_m at amnet.net.au (Peter Mitchell)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 16:30:09 +0800
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Ignition coils- Is a Bosch GT40R ok with
	electronic ignition?
In-Reply-To: <SNT105-W5774463D2B351D35CE51328E970@phx.gbl>
References: <mailman.76.1259618896.12562.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
	<SNT105-W5774463D2B351D35CE51328E970@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000001ca7260$7ed0cb00$7c726100$@net.au>

Thanks James and Paul (PVS) for your helpful comments.  I checked the post
you referred to James, and did my own search, and found a lot of
information, none of it providing confirmation one way or the other. I will
'give it a go' in Aussie-talk, and report back to Rovernet.

 

There was a query as to the brand of the electronic ignition installed- I
cannot identify and manufacturer's details as yet.

 

I have purchased a new condenser also, as the finger of suspicion was
pointed at that item as a likely cause of the engine cutting out, so I am
inclined to try that swap over first.

 

Thanks to all for your patience in suffering the explanation of ignition
coils and ballast resistors in terminology able to be comprehended by a lay
person.

 

Cheers

 

Peter Mitchell

 





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From peterhut at activ8.net.au  Tue Dec  1 05:17:29 2009
From: peterhut at activ8.net.au (Peter H)
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 2009 21:17:29 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] moving a car from east to west.
In-Reply-To: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD1608181C@Server.adoptsec.local>
References: <002801ca7164$e076f0c0$a164d240$@net.au><2D62F3E5E46542F39F391770D5C67EFD@Vista><73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD1608180E@Server.adoptsec.local>
	<799660.74749.qm@web34304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD1608181C@Server.adoptsec.local>
Message-ID: <9rq9h5laseqrfeite4steke3tpr75gb62u@4ax.com>

On Tue, 1 Dec 2009 07:08:17 +0900, you wrote:

>No but I?ll give them a call today.
>
>Thanks Eric.
>
>Den


Dennis,

I posed your question to our members' forum, following comments:

Recommended:
Auto Logistics
Toll (although expensive)

Not recommended:
CEVA

One comment made was the following requirements by the carrier:
Your vehicle needs to be in a road worthy condition but registration
is not required. Steering, brakes, handbrake, battery and wheels/tyres
must be in full working order. 

All windows and windscreens must be in place.  The ground clearance at
the lowest point of the car cannot be less than 13cm.

Hope it is some help.

Cheers,

Peter H


From p6rovers at yahoo.com  Wed Dec  2 17:15:55 2009
From: p6rovers at yahoo.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2009 14:15:55 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover Car Parts in Los Angeles, USA
Message-ID: <392040.65345.qm@web34303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi,
Tom Trafton, retired subscriber of this mailing list, sent me an email requesting that I post the following message.  His contact information should follow at the end.

Eric
***********************************************************************************************************************

I have a right front fender and a driver's side door for a Rover 2000TC that I would like to give away.  They are free for the cost of shipping or totally free if someone wants to pick them up at my home in Los Angeles.  Both the door and fender are in near perfect condition.  When I was restoring my Rover I had both of these sandblasted then did whatever minor body work was required, primered, block sanded, more primer, more block sanding, etc. then finished them with the final color (Corvette Torch Red).  It was only then that I discovered that the fender was for a model earlier than my 1968 Rover, probably a '67 or earlier.  The funny thing is that this fender was on my Rover since I bought the car in 1970 and I never noticed that there was a slight difference in the wheel arch!  And the door is from an earlier 2000 in that it doesn't have the anti-burst system of the later Rovers.  It fits the car just fine but I wanted a door with the anti-burst
 device.  Also I have a gas tank that I may also want to give away.  I am still thinking about this, however.

So I have these two parts that are taking up space and I would like to send them on to a fellow Rover enthusiast rather than send them to the scrap yard.  If you would be so kind as to post this on Rovernet I would greatly appreciate it.  

I can be contacted by email or by telephone.  However we will be out of the country from 14 Dec to 7 Jan so during that period I will be in contact via email only.

Best Regards,
Tom Trafton
323-217-5323

 "Misfortune tests the sincerity of friends." - Aesop (c.620-560 BC)



      __________________________________________________________________
Get the name you've always wanted @ymail.com or @rocketmail.com! Go to http://ca.promos.yahoo.com/jacko/


From p6rovers at yahoo.com  Wed Dec  2 17:22:15 2009
From: p6rovers at yahoo.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2009 14:22:15 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover Car Parts in Los Angeles, USA,
	email address
In-Reply-To: <392040.65345.qm@web34303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <392040.65345.qm@web34303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <517887.68774.qm@web34303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Whoops.
I forgot to add Tom's email address as mentioned in his note:

Tom Trafton [v8rover at earthlink.net]


Eric


 "Misfortune tests the sincerity of friends." - Aesop (c.620-560 BC)



----- Original Message ----
From: Eric Russell <p6rovers at yahoo.com>
To: INTERNATIONAL Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Wed, December 2, 2009 2:15:55 PM
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover Car Parts in Los Angeles, USA

Hi,
Tom Trafton, retired subscriber of this mailing list, sent me an email requesting that I post the following message.  His contact information should follow at the end.

Eric
***********************************************************************************************************************

I have a right front fender and a driver's side door for a Rover 2000TC that I would like to give away.  They are free for the cost of shipping or totally free if someone wants to pick them up at my home in Los Angeles.  Both the door and fender are in near perfect condition.  When I was restoring my Rover I had both of these sandblasted then did whatever minor body work was required, primered, block sanded, more primer, more block sanding, etc. then finished them with the final color (Corvette Torch Red).  It was only then that I discovered that the fender was for a model earlier than my 1968 Rover, probably a '67 or earlier.  The funny thing is that this fender was on my Rover since I bought the car in 1970 and I never noticed that there was a slight difference in the wheel arch!  And the door is from an earlier 2000 in that it doesn't have the anti-burst system of the later Rovers.  It fits the car just fine but I wanted a door with the anti-burst
device.  Also I have a gas tank that I may also want to give away.  I am still thinking about this, however.

So I have these two parts that are taking up space and I would like to send them on to a fellow Rover enthusiast rather than send them to the scrap yard.  If you would be so kind as to post this on Rovernet I would greatly appreciate it.  

I can be contacted by email or by telephone.  However we will be out of the country from 14 Dec to 7 Jan so during that period I will be in contact via email only.

Best Regards,
Tom Trafton
323-217-5323

"Misfortune tests the sincerity of friends." - Aesop (c.620-560 BC)



      __________________________________________________________________
Get the name you've always wanted @ymail.com or @rocketmail.com! Go to http://ca.promos.yahoo.com/jacko/

_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here are the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/



      __________________________________________________________________
Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr! 

http://www.flickr.com/gift/


From rovejag at hotmail.com  Sat Dec  5 02:13:51 2009
From: rovejag at hotmail.com (Graeme Rover)
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 2009 18:13:51 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover P4 100 with 110 Engine
	-	Misfire & Water Ejection
In-Reply-To: <204ec4390911301512k1a65459cq6c553bf1877ce171@mail.gmail.com>
References: <mailman.61.1259548061.12562.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>,
	<SNT105-W65F7EE20E89AE310ADFA88E970@phx.gbl>,
	<204ec4390911301512k1a65459cq6c553bf1877ce171@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BLU114-W1716A058B5F4F8C4C74572AD920@phx.gbl>


Thanks for your help and advice guys.

 

Ray 
 
> Date: Mon, 30 Nov 2009 15:12:44 -0800
> From: smokeandsteam at gmail.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover P4 100 with 110 Engine - Misfire & Water Ejection
> 
> >The gaskets themselves were fine, and a compression test would not have picked up the problem.
> 
> That's a good point - the fact that a compression test is good doesn't
> mean that all is well, but low compression does indicate a real
> problem. Troubleshooting is always a matter of gradual elimination,
> and a compression test won't elimate some faults, though it can help
> you improve your strike rate
> 
> Aidrian
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here are the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
 		 	   		  
_________________________________________________________________
If It Exists, You'll Find it on SEEK Australia's #1 job site
http://clk.atdmt.com/NMN/go/157639755/direct/01/
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From j_radcliffe at hotmail.com  Sun Dec  6 12:05:19 2009
From: j_radcliffe at hotmail.com (James Radcliffe)
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2009 12:05:19 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Retourquing head gaskets.
In-Reply-To: <mailman.9.1250524814.29475.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
References: <mailman.9.1250524814.29475.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <SNT105-W43F22542D80F25E7BD72858E910@phx.gbl>










I have often wondered what is the correct procedure to re-torque head gaskets, and how often should this be done, if at all? When I have retorqued I have got out the torque wrench and tightened down in order to the specified torque, in the order specified in the book. Other people have told me that you should loosen all the head bolts first then tighten them down to the specifed torque. I have always felt that it is best to just tighten them down, not loosen them first as there is a risk in loosening them first that coolant might spread to where it is not supposed to be, while the bolts are lose, and the head gasket might be disturbed.

I would be interested in any thoughts that the Rovernet brains trust may have. I did have a discussion about this once at the pub one night. The publican was a mechanic, and he thought my method was fine, but sometimes it is good to get another opinion rather than one generated while having consumed quite a few units of amber knowledge!

James.
 		 	   		  
_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live Hotmail is faster and more secure than ever.
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From vmitps at netspace.net.au  Sun Dec  6 16:11:06 2009
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2009 08:11:06 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Retourquing head gaskets.
In-Reply-To: <SNT105-W43F22542D80F25E7BD72858E910@phx.gbl>
References: <mailman.9.1250524814.29475.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
	<SNT105-W43F22542D80F25E7BD72858E910@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <809379DEA0E04B659AB6AD02491CBF75@Vista>

Torque them to the upper limit in the first place and you won't need to retorque.
But yes just tightening is ok.

PVS
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: James Radcliffe 
  To: rovernet at rovernet.ca 
  Sent: Monday, December 07, 2009 4:05 AM
  Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Retourquing head gaskets.




  I have often wondered what is the correct procedure to re-torque head gaskets, and how often should this be done, if at all? When I have retorqued I have got out the torque wrench and tightened down in order to the specified torque, in the order specified in the book. Other people have told me that you should loosen all the head bolts first then tighten them down to the specifed torque. I have always felt that it is best to just tighten them down, not loosen them first as there is a risk in loosening them first that coolant might spread to where it is not supposed to be, while the bolts are lose, and the head gasket might be disturbed.

  I would be interested in any thoughts that the Rovernet brains trust may have. I did have a discussion about this once at the pub one night. The publican was a mechanic, and he thought my method was fine, but sometimes it is good to get another opinion rather than one generated while having consumed quite a few units of amber knowledge!

  James.


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  Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
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From nathanobuch at yahoo.com  Sun Dec  6 17:48:26 2009
From: nathanobuch at yahoo.com (Nathan Obuch)
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2009 14:48:26 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Retourquing head gaskets.
In-Reply-To: <SNT105-W43F22542D80F25E7BD72858E910@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <704007.43896.qm@web110305.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

I'm going to theorize that the best thing to do is to loosen the bolts (one at a time) slightly- perhaps an eighth of a turn and then retorque to spec. My reasoning is that the static coefficent of friction is much greater than the dynamic coefficient of friction, so an accurate final torque requires that the bolt be turning up to the point the torque wrench clicks. (i.e. it takes more force to get a bolt to START turning under tension than it does to make it CONTINUE turning.) 

Well, that's my theory. It's probably not all that critical either way!

Nathan 
--- On Sun, 12/6/09, James Radcliffe <j_radcliffe at hotmail.com> wrote:

> From: James Radcliffe <j_radcliffe at hotmail.com>
> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Retourquing head gaskets.
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Sunday, December 6, 2009, 11:05 AM
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 
>  
>  
> 
> #yiv553520860 .hmmessage P
> {margin:0px;padding:0px;}
> #yiv553520860 {font-size:10pt;font-family:Verdana;}
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have often wondered what is the correct procedure to
> re-torque head gaskets, and how often should this be done,
> if at all? When I have retorqued I have got out the torque
> wrench and tightened down in order to the specified torque,
> in the order specified in the book. Other people have told
> me that you should loosen all the head bolts first then
> tighten them down to the specifed torque. I have always felt
> that it is best to just tighten them down, not loosen them
> first as there is a risk in loosening them first that
> coolant might spread to where it is not supposed to be,
> while the bolts are lose, and the head gasket might be
> disturbed.
> 
> I would be interested in any thoughts that the Rovernet
> brains trust may have. I did have a discussion about this
> once at the pub one night. The publican was a mechanic, and
> he thought my method was fine, but sometimes it is good to
> get another opinion rather than one generated while having
> consumed quite a few units of amber knowledge!
> 
> James.
>  		 	   		  
> Windows LiveT   Hotmail is faster
> and more secure than ever. Learn
> more. 
> 
> -----Inline Attachment Follows-----
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest
> mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here are the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/


      


From defender110 at ozemail.com.au  Sun Dec  6 17:58:09 2009
From: defender110 at ozemail.com.au (David Read)
Date: Mon, 07 Dec 2009 09:28:09 +1030
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Retourquing head gaskets.
In-Reply-To: <809379DEA0E04B659AB6AD02491CBF75@Vista>
References: <mailman.9.1250524814.29475.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>	<SNT105-W43F22542D80F25E7BD72858E910@phx.gbl>
	<809379DEA0E04B659AB6AD02491CBF75@Vista>
Message-ID: <4B1C3701.3060009@ozemail.com.au>

AFAIK, the re-torquing depends on the gasket material and manufacturer's specifications.
Composite material is touted as a "once only" torque, tin gaskets *may* need to be re-torqued after a set period, but
surely if OEM gaskets are used, the manufacturer's repair manual procedures should be followed.

Cheers
Dave
South Oz

Netspace wrote:
> Torque them to the upper limit in the first place and you won't need to retorque.
> But yes just tightening is ok.
> 
> PVS
>   ----- Original Message ----- 
>   From: James Radcliffe 
>   To: rovernet at rovernet.ca 
>   Sent: Monday, December 07, 2009 4:05 AM
>   Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Retourquing head gaskets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
>   I have often wondered what is the correct procedure to re-torque head gaskets, and how often should this be done, if at all? When I have retorqued I have got out the torque wrench and tightened down in order to the specified torque, in the order specified in the book. Other people have told me that you should loosen all the head bolts first then tighten them down to the specifed torque. I have always felt that it is best to just tighten them down, not loosen them first as there is a risk in loosening them first that coolant might spread to where it is not supposed to be, while the bolts are lose, and the head gasket might be disturbed.
> 
>   I would be interested in any thoughts that the Rovernet brains trust may have. I did have a discussion about this once at the pub one night. The publican was a mechanic, and he thought my method was fine, but sometimes it is good to get another opinion rather than one generated while having consumed quite a few units of amber knowledge!
> 
>   James.


From rovercar at comcast.net  Sun Dec  6 18:03:52 2009
From: rovercar at comcast.net (Glen Wilson)
Date: Sun, 06 Dec 2009 18:03:52 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Retourquing head gaskets.
In-Reply-To: <704007.43896.qm@web110305.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <704007.43896.qm@web110305.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4B1C3858.4000707@comcast.net>

James,

I hate to be a killjoy on this, but can I ask why you want to re-torque 
the head in the first place? I would tend to think that if the head has 
been in place for some time and there is no evidence of leaking, 
loosening or tightening the bolts is more likely to cause a leak than 
prevent one.

Glen





Nathan Obuch wrote:
> I'm going to theorize that the best thing to do is to loosen the bolts (one at a time) slightly- perhaps an eighth of a turn and then retorque to spec. My reasoning is that the static coefficent of friction is much greater than the dynamic coefficient of friction, so an accurate final torque requires that the bolt be turning up to the point the torque wrench clicks. (i.e. it takes more force to get a bolt to START turning under tension than it does to make it CONTINUE turning.) 
>
> Well, that's my theory. It's probably not all that critical either way!
>
> Nathan 
> --- On Sun, 12/6/09, James Radcliffe <j_radcliffe at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>   
>> From: James Radcliffe <j_radcliffe at hotmail.com>
>> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Retourquing head gaskets.
>> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> Date: Sunday, December 6, 2009, 11:05 AM
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>  
>>
>>
>>  
>>  
>>
>> #yiv553520860 .hmmessage P
>> {margin:0px;padding:0px;}
>> #yiv553520860 {font-size:10pt;font-family:Verdana;}
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> I have often wondered what is the correct procedure to
>> re-torque head gaskets, and how often should this be done,
>> if at all? When I have retorqued I have got out the torque
>> wrench and tightened down in order to the specified torque,
>> in the order specified in the book. Other people have told
>> me that you should loosen all the head bolts first then
>> tighten them down to the specifed torque. I have always felt
>> that it is best to just tighten them down, not loosen them
>> first as there is a risk in loosening them first that
>> coolant might spread to where it is not supposed to be,
>> while the bolts are lose, and the head gasket might be
>> disturbed.
>>
>> I would be interested in any thoughts that the Rovernet
>> brains trust may have. I did have a discussion about this
>> once at the pub one night. The publican was a mechanic, and
>> he thought my method was fine, but sometimes it is good to
>> get another opinion rather than one generated while having
>> consumed quite a few units of amber knowledge!
>>
>> James.
>>  		 	   		  
>> Windows LiveT   Hotmail is faster
>> and more secure than ever. Learn
>> more. 
>>
>> -----Inline Attachment Follows-----
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Rovernet mailing list
>> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest
>> mode or no-mail:
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>> Here are the old Rovernet archives:
>> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
>> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>>     
>
>
>       
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here are the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>   

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From defender110 at ozemail.com.au  Sun Dec  6 18:09:01 2009
From: defender110 at ozemail.com.au (David Read)
Date: Mon, 07 Dec 2009 09:39:01 +1030
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Retourquing head gaskets.
In-Reply-To: <4B1C3858.4000707@comcast.net>
References: <704007.43896.qm@web110305.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<4B1C3858.4000707@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4B1C398D.8040208@ozemail.com.au>

Amen to that Glen,
If it's not broken, why try to fix it?
What is wrong with manufacturer's procedures/specifications?

Cheers
Dave
South oz

Glen Wilson wrote:
> James,
> 
> I hate to be a killjoy on this, but can I ask why you want to re-torque 
> the head in the first place? I would tend to think that if the head has 
> been in place for some time and there is no evidence of leaking, 
> loosening or tightening the bolts is more likely to cause a leak than 
> prevent one.
> 
> Glen


From vmitps at netspace.net.au  Sun Dec  6 18:09:42 2009
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2009 10:09:42 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Retourquing head gaskets.
In-Reply-To: <704007.43896.qm@web110305.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <704007.43896.qm@web110305.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <F2B88E98FF8141F086D93B05B7F5D62A@Vista>

Entirely true, but slack All the bolts before tightening first one.

PVS

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Nathan Obuch" <nathanobuch at yahoo.com>
To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Monday, December 07, 2009 9:48 AM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Retourquing head gaskets.


> I'm going to theorize that the best thing to do is to loosen the bolts 
> (one at a time) slightly- perhaps an eighth of a turn and then retorque to 
> spec. My reasoning is that the static coefficent of friction is much 
> greater than the dynamic coefficient of friction, so an accurate final 
> torque requires that the bolt be turning up to the point the torque wrench 
> clicks. (i.e. it takes more force to get a bolt to START turning under 
> tension than it does to make it CONTINUE turning.)
>
> Well, that's my theory. It's probably not all that critical either way!
>
> Nathan
> --- On Sun, 12/6/09, James Radcliffe <j_radcliffe at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>> From: James Radcliffe <j_radcliffe at hotmail.com>
>> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Retourquing head gaskets.
>> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> Date: Sunday, December 6, 2009, 11:05 AM
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> #yiv553520860 .hmmessage P
>> {margin:0px;padding:0px;}
>> #yiv553520860 {font-size:10pt;font-family:Verdana;}
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> I have often wondered what is the correct procedure to
>> re-torque head gaskets, and how often should this be done,
>> if at all? When I have retorqued I have got out the torque
>> wrench and tightened down in order to the specified torque,
>> in the order specified in the book. Other people have told
>> me that you should loosen all the head bolts first then
>> tighten them down to the specifed torque. I have always felt
>> that it is best to just tighten them down, not loosen them
>> first as there is a risk in loosening them first that
>> coolant might spread to where it is not supposed to be,
>> while the bolts are lose, and the head gasket might be
>> disturbed.
>>
>> I would be interested in any thoughts that the Rovernet
>> brains trust may have. I did have a discussion about this
>> once at the pub one night. The publican was a mechanic, and
>> he thought my method was fine, but sometimes it is good to
>> get another opinion rather than one generated while having
>> consumed quite a few units of amber knowledge!
>>
>> James.
>>
>> Windows LiveT   Hotmail is faster
>> and more secure than ever. Learn
>> more.
>>
>> -----Inline Attachment Follows-----
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Rovernet mailing list
>> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest
>> mode or no-mail:
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>> Here are the old Rovernet archives:
>> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
>> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here are the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/ 



From j_radcliffe at hotmail.com  Sun Dec  6 19:14:32 2009
From: j_radcliffe at hotmail.com (James Radcliffe)
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2009 19:14:32 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Retorquing head gaskets
In-Reply-To: <mailman.107.1260140635.12562.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
References: <mailman.107.1260140635.12562.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <SNT105-W42B029AA6EFBC367A3FB448E900@phx.gbl>




> 
> Message: 5
> Date: Sun, 06 Dec 2009 18:03:52 -0500
> From: Glen Wilson <rovercar at comcast.net>
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Retourquing head gaskets.
> To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts."
> 	<rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Message-ID: <4B1C3858.4000707 at comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; Format="flowed"
> 
> James,
> 
> I hate to be a killjoy on this, but can I ask why you want to re-torque 
> the head in the first place? I would tend to think that if the head has 
> been in place for some time and there is no evidence of leaking, 
> loosening or tightening the bolts is more likely to cause a leak than 
> prevent one.
> 
> Glen
> 


It seems to be the done practice with the mechanics I have used in the past in Australia. They would want the car back after 500 miles to retourqe the head.   Now I have a Rover in the US where there are few Rover mechanics, I do the work myself. Some say not to bother when using modern head gaskets. There is a brand of gasket in Australia called monotorque, marketed on the basis that you only need to torque them once. 

Perhaps retorquing just an Australian practice which is not followed elsewhere. I suspect that there are more issues in Australia with leaky head gaskets due to higher operating temps, due to the warmer climate. Hence the practise of retorque, to cover the mechanics work. I know one mechanic who would only honour his warranty if the head was retorqued after 500 or so miles. Also since you do not need to worry about the coolant freezing in most places in Australia some people just use tap water which cause head corrosion issues. The other water which people use with out any inhibitor is distilled water, and this can cause corrosion also, when there is not inhibitor present.

James.
 		 	   		  
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From jmeisterling at hotmail.com  Sun Dec  6 19:57:03 2009
From: jmeisterling at hotmail.com (jesse meisterling)
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2009 00:57:03 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Retourquing head gaskets.
In-Reply-To: <4B1C3858.4000707@comcast.net>
References: <704007.43896.qm@web110305.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>,
	<4B1C3858.4000707@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <COL113-W315E4866BCAA7F877923CCD8900@phx.gbl>


James,

 

Glen and David are correct.

Back in the old days many import manufacturers and aftermarket rebuild kits had retorque requirements on heads.  It would be to retorque after run 'til hot and cool down or after so many miles.  That would have been before 40-50 years ago. Some imports were later than that.  The retorque spec would be to re-apply the original assembly torque, if it turns the gasket relaxed (set, creep...).  Do not loosen the bolt or any of the bolts!

 

On the 2000, Rover will allow you to loosen 2 bolts at once to install the spacers when adjusting the valves but that's it.  Any relaxation of a set gasket can be a problem even if the load goes back. 

 

Do what the manufacturer of the car and/or gasket recommends, most gaskets today do not require retorque and say it.  By now most must assume it because I do not know when the US stopped the practice.  My old '41 Willis had a retorque on the rebuild gasket but that was 45+ years ago.

 

 

Jesse

 

 


Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2009 18:03:52 -0500
From: rovercar at comcast.net
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Retourquing head gaskets.

James,

I hate to be a killjoy on this, but can I ask why you want to re-torque the head in the first place? I would tend to think that if the head has been in place for some time and there is no evidence of leaking, loosening or tightening the bolts is more likely to cause a leak than prevent one. 

Glen





Nathan Obuch wrote: 
I'm going to theorize that the best thing to do is to loosen the bolts (one at a time) slightly- perhaps an eighth of a turn and then retorque to spec. My reasoning is that the static coefficent of friction is much greater than the dynamic coefficient of friction, so an accurate final torque requires that the bolt be turning up to the point the torque wrench clicks. (i.e. it takes more force to get a bolt to START turning under tension than it does to make it CONTINUE turning.) 

Well, that's my theory. It's probably not all that critical either way!

Nathan 
--- On Sun, 12/6/09, James Radcliffe <j_radcliffe at hotmail.com> wrote:

  
From: James Radcliffe <j_radcliffe at hotmail.com>
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Retourquing head gaskets.
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Date: Sunday, December 6, 2009, 11:05 AM




 


 
 

#yiv553520860 .hmmessage P
{margin:0px;padding:0px;}
#yiv553520860 {font-size:10pt;font-family:Verdana;}




I have often wondered what is the correct procedure to
re-torque head gaskets, and how often should this be done,
if at all? When I have retorqued I have got out the torque
wrench and tightened down in order to the specified torque,
in the order specified in the book. Other people have told
me that you should loosen all the head bolts first then
tighten them down to the specifed torque. I have always felt
that it is best to just tighten them down, not loosen them
first as there is a risk in loosening them first that
coolant might spread to where it is not supposed to be,
while the bolts are lose, and the head gasket might be
disturbed.

I would be interested in any thoughts that the Rovernet
brains trust may have. I did have a discussion about this
once at the pub one night. The publican was a mechanic, and
he thought my method was fine, but sometimes it is good to
get another opinion rather than one generated while having
consumed quite a few units of amber knowledge!

James.
 		 	   		  
Windows LiveT   Hotmail is faster
and more secure than ever. Learn
more. 

-----Inline Attachment Follows-----

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Here are the old Rovernet archives:
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Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
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_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
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Here are the old Rovernet archives:
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Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
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From slatskars at comcast.net  Sun Dec  6 21:14:49 2009
From: slatskars at comcast.net (slatskars at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2009 02:14:49 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Retourquing head gaskets.
In-Reply-To: <SNT105-W43F22542D80F25E7BD72858E910@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <352451808.10549131260152089861.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>



Re-tourquing after a rebuild, replacement of the head gasket?or on a new engine after 500 miles would make sense, but re-tourquing just to do it on an engine that has no known problem, just doesn't make sense at all. The mention of using just water without antifreeze or additives was right on. Particularly with aluminium blocks or heads, this will lead to erosion and will give the same indications as a blown head gasket. The additives are only good for about three years and should be replenished or replaced. 



Slats 
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From defender110 at ozemail.com.au  Sun Dec  6 21:41:03 2009
From: defender110 at ozemail.com.au (David Read)
Date: Mon, 07 Dec 2009 13:11:03 +1030
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Retourquing head gaskets.
In-Reply-To: <352451808.10549131260152089861.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <352451808.10549131260152089861.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4B1C6B3F.6070308@ozemail.com.au>

Hi
I would still follow manufacturer's instructions in all circumstances.
After all, they take the time to spend the R&D $$$'s in the first place!

Another corrosion source is electrolytic.
I recently replaced an aluminium cored radiator.
In the manufacturer's instructions was a note that if more than 20mV (0.02V) existed between the coolant, measured at the filler, and battery 
body connection, all earths needed to be checked or else the warranty would be null and void!

Cheers
Dave
South Oz

slatskars at comcast.net wrote:
> 
> Re-tourquing after a rebuild, replacement of the head gasket or on a new engine after 500 miles would make sense, but re-tourquing just to do it on an engine that has no known problem, just doesn't make sense at all. The mention of using just water without antifreeze or additives was right on. Particularly with aluminium blocks or heads, this will lead to erosion and will give the same indications as a blown head gasket. The additives are only good for about three years and should be replenished or replaced. 
> 
> 
> 
> Slats 


From gofanu at cust.usachoice.net  Sun Dec  6 23:28:09 2009
From: gofanu at cust.usachoice.net (Fletcher Millmore)
Date: Sun, 06 Dec 2009 23:28:09 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Tightening Head & other bolts
Message-ID: <4B1C8459.40106@usachoice.net>

I have a detailed document I have written on the subject of Fasteners, 
Lubrication of same, head gaskets, etc. It summarises all my extensive 
(almost 60 years) experience of British cars and other machinery, and 
should counter all the erroneous info floating about - all tested and 
true. Rather long, so if anybody wants a copy, email me direct and ask 
for "Boltbabble"

FRM


From Nash4447 at cs.com  Sun Dec  6 23:35:35 2009
From: Nash4447 at cs.com (Nash4447 at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2009 23:35:35 EST
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 4 piston vs. 2 piston calipers
Message-ID: <c27.725a4cba.384de017@cs.com>


Fellas

The early SD1s had two piston front brake calipers. After the series 2 cars 
came out, the calipers went to 4 piston types. 

Do the 4 piston calipers really improve the car's stopping ability? It 
appears the 4 pistons are small in size but push a slightly larger pad against 
the rotor than earlier types. 

Has anyone made the conversion from 2 piston to 4 piston calipers and is it 
worthwhile considering the cost?

Thanks,    Glenn                       Los Angeles
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From peterhut at activ8.net.au  Mon Dec  7 00:17:49 2009
From: peterhut at activ8.net.au (Peter Huttemeier)
Date: Mon, 07 Dec 2009 16:17:49 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 4 piston vs. 2 piston calipers
In-Reply-To: <c27.725a4cba.384de017@cs.com>
References: <c27.725a4cba.384de017@cs.com>
Message-ID: <cq3ph5tjg84rhtghcqt6mo7pv2ptj8clrq@4ax.com>

On Sun, 6 Dec 2009 23:35:35 EST, you wrote:


>
>Do the 4 piston calipers really improve the car's stopping ability? It 
>appears the 4 pistons are small in size but push a slightly larger pad against 
>the rotor than earlier types. 

They certainly do when combined with ventilated frnt brake rotors a
well.

I converted my SE to virtually Vitesse specs and got a great
improvement in braking.

Cheers,

Peter H


From rovercar at comcast.net  Mon Dec  7 00:29:08 2009
From: rovercar at comcast.net (Glen Wilson)
Date: Mon, 07 Dec 2009 00:29:08 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 4 piston vs. 2 piston calipers
In-Reply-To: <c27.725a4cba.384de017@cs.com>
References: <c27.725a4cba.384de017@cs.com>
Message-ID: <4B1C92A4.4050806@comcast.net>

Glenn,

Michael Lewis out here in Baltimore upgraded the front calipers and 
rotors on his SD1 a few years ago when Rimmers had a big sale. As I 
recall, he was also very pleased with the improved performance.

Glen


Nash4447 at cs.com wrote:
>
> Fellas
>
> The early SD1s had two piston front brake calipers. After the series 2 
> cars came out, the calipers went to 4 piston types.
>
> Do the 4 piston calipers really improve the car's stopping ability? It 
> appears the 4 pistons are small in size but push a slightly larger pad 
> against the rotor than earlier types.
>
> Has anyone made the conversion from 2 piston to 4 piston calipers and 
> is it worthwhile considering the cost?
>
> Thanks,    Glenn                       Los Angeles
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here are the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
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From trowzerkoff at hotmail.com  Mon Dec  7 01:44:28 2009
From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com (Richard Sharpe)
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2009 06:44:28 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Retorquing head gaskets
In-Reply-To: <SNT105-W42B029AA6EFBC367A3FB448E900@phx.gbl>
References: <mailman.107.1260140635.12562.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>,
	<SNT105-W42B029AA6EFBC367A3FB448E900@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BAY120-W17843F2263E5B587FB1256B8900@phx.gbl>


Recommend following the workshop manual.  If it says retorque inside 500 miles, then do so.  My understanding is that a new gasket has a degree of "give" in it and the retorqueing ensures that the final correct tension is applied thus maximising subsequent in-service performance.
 


From: j_radcliffe at hotmail.com
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2009 19:14:32 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Retorquing head gaskets





> 
> Message: 5
> Date: Sun, 06 Dec 2009 18:03:52 -0500
> From: Glen Wilson <rovercar at comcast.net>
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Retourquing head gaskets.
> To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts."
> <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Message-ID: <4B1C3858.4000707 at comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; Format="flowed"
> 
> James,
> 
> I hate to be a killjoy on this, but can I ask why you want to re-torque 
> the head in the first place? I would tend to think that if the head has 
> been in place for some time and there is no evidence of leaking, 
> loosening or tightening the bolts is more likely to cause a leak than 
> prevent one.
> 
> Glen
> 


It seems to be the done practice with the mechanics I have used in the past in Australia. They would want the car back after 500 miles to retourqe the head.   Now I have a Rover in the US where there are few Rover mechanics, I do the work myself. Some say not to bother when using modern head gaskets. There is a brand of gasket in Australia called monotorque, marketed on the basis that you only need to torque them once. 

Perhaps retorquing just an Australian practice which is not followed elsewhere. I suspect that there are more issues in Australia with leaky head gaskets due to higher operating temps, due to the warmer climate. Hence the practise of retorque, to cover the mechanics work. I know one mechanic who would only honour his warranty if the head was retorqued after 500 or so miles. Also since you do not need to worry about the coolant freezing in most places in Australia some people just use tap water which cause head corrosion issues. The other water which people use with out any inhibitor is distilled water, and this can cause corrosion also, when there is not inhibitor present.

James.



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From nash4447 at cs.com  Mon Dec  7 18:23:12 2009
From: nash4447 at cs.com (nash4447 at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2009 18:23:12 EST
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 4 piston vs. 2 piston calipers
Message-ID: <40aa.69180bf.384ee860@cs.com>

Thanks Glen. I will have to watch for another Rimmer sale.

Glenn 
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From robertime at cavtel.net  Tue Dec  8 19:47:13 2009
From: robertime at cavtel.net (ROBERT HEIMERL)
Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2009 19:47:13 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 4 piston vs. 2 piston calipers
In-Reply-To: <40aa.69180bf.384ee860@cs.com>
References: <40aa.69180bf.384ee860@cs.com>
Message-ID: <3708a2530912081647u3bfcfb47i27decbb6b2702851@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Glenn in LA,

I believe you can convert yours to the dual piston calipers and vented discs
from a mid to late 1980's Jaguar XJ6 (which has a matching single line).
While I haven't done this yet, I do have the parts on hand from a junkyard
car.  They were in decent shape, cost a lot less than Rimmer Brothers --
especially since they didn't do a "free shipping" sale this year (at least
not yet).  It may require modifying the backing plate somewhat to fit the
larger components.

Good luck!

Robert H.
Arlington, VA

On Mon, Dec 7, 2009 at 6:23 PM, <nash4447 at cs.com> wrote:

> Thanks Glen. I will have to watch for another Rimmer sale.
>
> Glenn
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here are the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
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From Nash4447 at cs.com  Tue Dec  8 23:44:11 2009
From: Nash4447 at cs.com (Nash4447 at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2009 23:44:11 EST
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 4 piston vs. 2 piston calipers
Message-ID: <c89.55a5e6cf.3850851b@cs.com>

Thanks Robert, when I go junkyard patroling next, I will keep my eyes open 
for an 80s XJ6.

Glenn       
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From roverman2 at verizon.net  Wed Dec  9 14:15:15 2009
From: roverman2 at verizon.net (Dermot Harvey)
Date: Wed, 09 Dec 2009 14:15:15 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Ignition Coils
Message-ID: <C02B1724-83B8-4BC9-840D-99DA7DBE9131@verizon.net>

Hi Group,

My TC was not starting well, which it usually does. The car is stock  
with points. I decided to change the ignition coil, and used a Lucas  
Sport coil. Car now starts much better!
I have a friend in the US  who sells new Sport coils at a reasonable  
price. Contact me if you want his name.

Dermot Harvey


From rababiuk at telusplanet.net  Thu Dec 10 11:09:37 2009
From: rababiuk at telusplanet.net (Roy Babiuk)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 09:09:37 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Anyone have a spare heater cord?
Message-ID: <78CC3CAC-C759-4137-8BE2-0C6110936BAA@telusplanet.net>

Hi all.
During the rebuild of my engine, the shop discarded the cord from my 2  
prong immersion heater.
I have inquired with the club and Ruth without success.
Does anyone have a spare immersion heater cord?

Roy Babiuk


From vern at inkspotco.com  Thu Dec 10 11:15:56 2009
From: vern at inkspotco.com (Vern Klukas)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 08:15:56 -0800
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Anyone have a spare heater cord?
In-Reply-To: <78CC3CAC-C759-4137-8BE2-0C6110936BAA@telusplanet.net>
References: <78CC3CAC-C759-4137-8BE2-0C6110936BAA@telusplanet.net>
Message-ID: <AC209FC6-E26B-458C-99DA-E5C6A9BE782F@inkspotco.com>

Ohh, tough one. I can't help with an actual cord, but I do remember thinking once that the cord end appeared to match a common aftermarket blockheater unit I saw at Canadian Tire, so that might be worth a shot. Take a picture of the socket on the heater and compare.

Yours
Vern
On 2009-12-10, at 8:09 AM, Roy Babiuk wrote:

> Hi all.
> During the rebuild of my engine, the shop discarded the cord from my 2 prong immersion heater.
> I have inquired with the club and Ruth without success.
> Does anyone have a spare immersion heater cord?
> 
> Roy Babiuk
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here are the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/



From lingfield51 at btopenworld.com  Thu Dec 10 11:30:37 2009
From: lingfield51 at btopenworld.com (Partviking)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 16:30:37 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Anyone have a spare heater cord?
In-Reply-To: <AC209FC6-E26B-458C-99DA-E5C6A9BE782F@inkspotco.com>
References: <78CC3CAC-C759-4137-8BE2-0C6110936BAA@telusplanet.net>
	<AC209FC6-E26B-458C-99DA-E5C6A9BE782F@inkspotco.com>
Message-ID: <335127.59380.qm@web86004.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

I would discard the shop!!


Doubt you'll find one anything like the original. I assume it is an aftermarket Bray Engine heater? Mine has an armoured cable but any modern equivalent will probably not look anything like the original. Mine also has the threaded 'slip' ring which I'm almsot sure you won't get. Did they discard this as well?

Alan Francis (partviking)




________________________________
From: Vern Klukas <vern at inkspotco.com>
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts. <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Thursday, 10 December, 2009 16:15:56
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Anyone have a spare heater cord?

Ohh, tough one. I can't help with an actual cord, but I do remember thinking once that the cord end appeared to match a common aftermarket blockheater unit I saw at Canadian Tire, so that might be worth a shot. Take a picture of the socket on the heater and compare.

Yours
Vern
On 2009-12-10, at 8:09 AM, Roy Babiuk wrote:

> Hi all.
> During the rebuild of my engine, the shop discarded the cord from my 2 prong immersion heater.
> I have inquired with the club and Ruth without success.
> Does anyone have a spare immersion heater cord?
> 
> Roy Babiuk
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here are the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/


_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here are the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
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From rababiuk at telusplanet.net  Thu Dec 10 11:44:23 2009
From: rababiuk at telusplanet.net (Roy Babiuk)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 09:44:23 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Anyone have a spare heater cord?
Message-ID: <E5558337-CF35-439F-A1EC-2D1D36DE63A4@telusplanet.net>

Here's a pic: http://s640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/cdnp6/2000%20TC%20Engine/?action=view&current=heaterplug.jpg

I will look in the box of returned parts for the slip ring.
I would have liked to keep it more original, but perhaps a new heater  
with a 3 prong cord with a ground isn't such a bad idea either.

Roy


From lingfield51 at btopenworld.com  Thu Dec 10 12:08:14 2009
From: lingfield51 at btopenworld.com (Partviking)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 17:08:14 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Anyone have a spare heater cord?
In-Reply-To: <E5558337-CF35-439F-A1EC-2D1D36DE63A4@telusplanet.net>
References: <E5558337-CF35-439F-A1EC-2D1D36DE63A4@telusplanet.net>
Message-ID: <854432.97803.qm@web86002.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

Certainly looks like a Bray. The slip ring holds the cord on preventing accidental disconnection. They were earthed through the armouring and the installation leaflet specifically warns about connecting an earth lead...at a time when many domestic items were not earthed.

Engine looks nice Roy, are you painting it the factory blue or leaving it as is?

Alan Francis (partviking)




________________________________
From: Roy Babiuk <rababiuk at telusplanet.net>
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Sent: Thursday, 10 December, 2009 16:44:23
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Anyone have a spare heater cord?

Here's a pic: http://s640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/cdnp6/2000%20TC%20Engine/?action=view&current=heaterplug.jpg

I will look in the box of returned parts for the slip ring.
I would have liked to keep it more original, but perhaps a new heater with a 3 prong cord with a ground isn't such a bad idea either.

Roy

_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here are the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
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From rababiuk at telusplanet.net  Thu Dec 10 12:45:41 2009
From: rababiuk at telusplanet.net (Roy Babiuk)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 10:45:41 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] engine color, was heater cord?
Message-ID: <837B71CF-4FD5-4C26-849B-C5DF2F8AA8F3@telusplanet.net>

Well, when the engine was being rebuilt, they neglected to ask what  
color it should be and just went ahead and painted it... So, its black.

Looks good, and, unfortunately, with all the top end parts in place,  
the block color isn't really visible anyway.
Engines in, ran nice in the shop, and was driven onto the car hauler  
without difficulty. But she wouldn't start after the two hour trailer  
ride home in -26? C.
After pushing the car into the garage, I noticed a fuel odor and found  
after some investigation that someone had also pulled my reserve tap  
which probably hasn't been operated in at least 23 years...
So now I'm waiting for my replacement fuel tap to swap out with the  
one leaking slowly in my garage...
For now, battery out and charging, and sitting with margarine  
containers strategically placed to catch most of the dripping fuel..

Roy



From englishmn at verizon.net  Thu Dec 10 12:54:49 2009
From: englishmn at verizon.net (peter & nancy)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 09:54:49 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3500s motor mount brakets
Message-ID: <67591.56696.qm@web84107.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

hello out there lam in need of both motor mount brackets that are mounted to the engine block for my 3500sP6b V8 
also in need of brake master and the 4 bolt mount that goes between it to the body has 2 bolt patt on one end and 4 on the other
thanks much pete
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From p6estate at blueyonder.co.uk  Thu Dec 10 15:49:11 2009
From: p6estate at blueyonder.co.uk (p6estate at blueyonder.co.uk)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 20:49:11 -0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Anyone have a spare heater cord?
References: <78CC3CAC-C759-4137-8BE2-0C6110936BAA@telusplanet.net><AC209FC6-E26B-458C-99DA-E5C6A9BE782F@inkspotco.com>
	<335127.59380.qm@web86004.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <94A84D610DC9459B9CECA4416BA6982C@SN037535920331>

Which piece are you actually missing? 
The engine block to the socket or the lead that runs from the socket to the mains supply.
Speak Soon
Warmest regards
Mark

Mark Gray
Editor, Driving Force
The Rover P6 Club
www.p6club.com
editor at p6club.com
Club line 01902 689975
Mobile 078 333 48030

Club Display prize winners at The Classic Car and Bike Restoration Show, Donington 2008
Winners of the Best Club Display Award at the  National Restoration Show 2006.
Winners of the Best Club Display at The Classic Car and Bike Restoration Show, Donington 2007
Club Display prize winners at The London Classic Car Show October 2007   
 





----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Partviking 
  To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts. 
  Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2009 4:30 PM
  Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Anyone have a spare heater cord?


  I would discard the shop!!


  Doubt you'll find one anything like the original. I assume it is an aftermarket Bray Engine heater? Mine has an armoured cable but any modern equivalent will probably not look anything like the original. Mine also has the threaded 'slip' ring which I'm almsot sure you won't get. Did they discard this as well?

  Alan Francis (partviking)




------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  From: Vern Klukas <vern at inkspotco.com>
  To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts. <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
  Sent: Thursday, 10 December, 2009 16:15:56
  Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Anyone have a spare heater cord?

  Ohh, tough one. I can't help with an actual cord, but I do remember thinking once that the cord end appeared to match a common aftermarket blockheater unit I saw at Canadian Tire, so that might be worth a shot. Take a picture of the socket on the heater and compare.

  Yours
  Vern
  On 2009-12-10, at 8:09 AM, Roy Babiuk wrote:

  > Hi all.
  > During the rebuild of my engine, the shop discarded the cord from my 2 prong immersion heater.
  > I have inquired with the club and Ruth without success.
  > Does anyone have a spare immersion heater cord?
  > 
  > Roy Babiuk
  > 
  > _______________________________________________
  > Rovernet mailing list
  > Rovernet at rovernet.ca
  > Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
  > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
  > Here are the old Rovernet archives:
  > http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
  > Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
  > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/


  _______________________________________________
  Rovernet mailing list
  Rovernet at rovernet.ca
  Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
  http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
  Here are the old Rovernet archives:
  http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
  Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
  http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/



------------------------------------------------------------------------------


  _______________________________________________
  Rovernet mailing list
  Rovernet at rovernet.ca
  Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
  http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
  Here are the old Rovernet archives:
  http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
  Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
  http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
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From rababiuk at telusplanet.net  Thu Dec 10 16:00:11 2009
From: rababiuk at telusplanet.net (Roy Babiuk)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 14:00:11 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Heater cord
Message-ID: <A01C3EB4-741F-410F-8C2C-E80CB4BAC8BF@telusplanet.net>

Hi Mark.

As seen here: http://s640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/cdnp6/2000%20TC%20Engine/?action=view&current=heaterplug.jpg
What I have is the heater installed in the sideplate, and nothing else.
I need the cord that runs from the prongs on the heater plug to the  
mains, and as Alan has suggested I may also need a slip ring to hold  
it all in place.
Checked my boxes of returned parts and alas no cord or slipring  : (

Roy

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From lingfield51 at btopenworld.com  Thu Dec 10 16:04:13 2009
From: lingfield51 at btopenworld.com (Partviking)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 21:04:13 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Heater Cord
Message-ID: <713722.60032.qm@web86007.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

Hi Roy,
    As you can see from the photos the cable is not an everyday item though no doubt you could 'cobble' something together. 

http://s844.photobucket.com/albums/ab6/partviking/?action=view&current=BrayHeater001-1.jpg

Alan Francis (partviking)
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From rababiuk at telusplanet.net  Thu Dec 10 16:15:28 2009
From: rababiuk at telusplanet.net (Roy Babiuk)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 14:15:28 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Heater cord
Message-ID: <C8B2C5B6-4C6E-4E97-A2D4-379FA6AC0880@telusplanet.net>

Alan, those pictures are fantastic and I think, illustrate that the  
units are different.
My heater does not have threads on the outside rim, and the prongs are  
thinner.
The cord that was removed looked the same gauge as a lamp cord.
Hope this helps.
Roy


From gwlucas at granite.mb.ca  Thu Dec 10 18:26:45 2009
From: gwlucas at granite.mb.ca (Glen Lucas)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 17:26:45 -0600
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Heater cord
In-Reply-To: <A01C3EB4-741F-410F-8C2C-E80CB4BAC8BF@telusplanet.net>
References: <A01C3EB4-741F-410F-8C2C-E80CB4BAC8BF@telusplanet.net>
Message-ID: <003d01ca79f0$493236e0$db96a4a0$@mb.ca>

Roy,

 

I recently had a similar problem with the block heater on my P4.  I found an
old extension cord which fit over the prongs.  However, the heater itself
was no good so I replaced it with a modern unit.  I can send my cord to you
if you wish.

 

Regards,

 

Glen Lucas

 

From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Roy Babiuk
Sent: December 10, 2009 3:00 PM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Heater cord

 

Hi Mark.

 

As seen here:
http://s640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/cdnp6/2000%20TC%20Engine/?action=vi
ew
<http://s640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/cdnp6/2000%20TC%20Engine/?action=v
iew&current=heaterplug.jpg> &current=heaterplug.jpg
What I have is the heater installed in the sideplate, and nothing else. 

I need the cord that runs from the prongs on the heater plug to the mains,
and as Alan has suggested I may also need a slip ring to hold it all in
place.

Checked my boxes of returned parts and alas no cord or slipring  : (

 

Roy

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From vern at inkspotco.com  Thu Dec 10 18:35:33 2009
From: vern at inkspotco.com (Vern Klukas)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 15:35:33 -0800
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Heater Cord
In-Reply-To: <713722.60032.qm@web86007.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
References: <713722.60032.qm@web86007.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <3147BBF1-464B-452F-B5AB-C08BEA7C3161@inkspotco.com>

I'd kill for a heavy duty setup like that. I've seen a lot of P6s over the years and I have never seen a block heater like that here in Canada, they are always the style Roy has, with a simple lampcord type cable.

Yours
Vern

On 2009-12-10, at 1:04 PM, Partviking wrote:

> Hi Roy,
>     As you can see from the photos the cable is not an everyday item though no doubt you could 'cobble' something together. 
> 
> http://s844.photobucket.com/albums/ab6/partviking/?action=view&current=BrayHeater001-1.jpg
> 
> Alan Francis (partviking)
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here are the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/

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From adrian.mcdonald at live.com  Thu Dec 10 22:49:52 2009
From: adrian.mcdonald at live.com (Adrian McDonald)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 19:49:52 -0800
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Body Panels in LA Area
Message-ID: <BLU129-W23F5367EC2B2C6019CE5AF9E8C0@phx.gbl>


Hi all

 

An impending reduction in available space means I have to move my large spare parts. I have 4 doors from a 2000TC, that are all very straight in terms of the metalwork. No rust. The internal fixtures and fittings are mostly removed and would need to be replaced/rejuvenated. I also have a 2000TC hood that also has no dings to speak of, very straight. The bits are in Los Angeles - anyone interested please let me know.

 

Thanks

Adrian

adrian.mcdonald at live.com
 		 	   		  
_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live Hotmail gives you a free,exclusive  gift.
http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windowslive/hotmail_bl1/hotmail_bl1.aspx?ocid=PID23879::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-ww:WM_IMHM_7:092009
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From lingfield51 at btinternet.com  Fri Dec 11 05:01:16 2009
From: lingfield51 at btinternet.com (Juliet Keiler)
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2009 10:01:16 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Heater Plug and Cable
Message-ID: <425115.38992.qm@web86007.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

Hi Roy,


Mark Gray of the Rover P6 Club has sent me some pics of his unit which differs from mine, pics below. His does seem to have an earth lead connection unlike mine which I think earths through the slip ring.

The talk of flimsy cables for NADA area is a bit worrying, particularly in light of the severe winters you get. The irony is if the glabal warming guys are right our cars may soon require an extra engine cooler !  :)

Alan Francis (partviking)




http://s844.photobucket.com/albums/ab6/partviking/?action=view&current=Heater4.jpg

http://s844.photobucket.com/albums/ab6/partviking/?action=view&current=Heater3.jpg

http://s844.photobucket.com/albums/ab6/partviking/?action=view&current=Heater2.jpg
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From p6rovers at yahoo.com  Fri Dec 11 11:42:50 2009
From: p6rovers at yahoo.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2009 08:42:50 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Heater Plug and Cable
In-Reply-To: <425115.38992.qm@web86007.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
References: <425115.38992.qm@web86007.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <94078.6646.qm@web34303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Alan,
Hardly global warming in, what is *supposed to be*, a moderate climate zone. Four feet of snow in our front yard last year.  B***er it!  I had a snowblower delivered on Wednesday. It's been below freezing for a week now.  The gods must be smiling on the 2010 Winter Games in Vancouver and Whistler.
Flakes of snow this morning.

Even Australia is getting a sea delivery of major ice :-)

Eric





 "Misfortune tests the sincerity of friends." - Aesop (c.620-560 BC)




________________________________
From: Juliet Keiler <lingfield51 at btinternet.com>
To: Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Cc: mg004d4060 at blueyonder.co.uk
Sent: Fri, December 11, 2009 2:01:16 AM
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Heater Plug and Cable


Hi Roy,


Mark Gray of the Rover P6 Club has sent me some pics of his unit which differs from mine, pics below. His does seem to have an earth lead connection unlike mine which I think earths through the slip ring.

The talk of flimsy cables for NADA area is a bit worrying, particularly in light of the severe winters you get. The irony is if the glabal warming guys are right our cars may soon require an extra engine cooler !  :)

Alan Francis (partviking)




http://s844.photobucket.com/albums/ab6/partviking/?action=view&current=Heater4.jpg

http://s844.photobucket.com/albums/ab6/partviking/?action=view&current=Heater3.jpg

http://s844.photobucket.com/albums/ab6/partviking/?action=view&current=Heater2.jpg



      __________________________________________________________________
Be smarter than spam. See how smart SpamGuard is at giving junk email the boot with the All-new Yahoo! Mail.  Click on Options in Mail and switch to New Mail today or register for free at http://mail.yahoo.ca
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From lingfield51 at btopenworld.com  Fri Dec 11 12:43:14 2009
From: lingfield51 at btopenworld.com (Partviking)
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2009 17:43:14 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Heater Plug and Cable
In-Reply-To: <94078.6646.qm@web34303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <425115.38992.qm@web86007.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
	<94078.6646.qm@web34303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <480326.639.qm@web86004.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

Eric,

I actually mean't 'our' in the sense of UK cars but realise it didn't read like that. Of course I appreciate some places in the world still get a 'proper' winter. :)

Alan Francis (partviking)




________________________________
From: Eric Russell <p6rovers at yahoo.com>
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts. <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Friday, 11 December, 2009 16:42:50
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Heater Plug and Cable


Alan,
Hardly global warming in, what is *supposed to be*, a moderate climate zone. Four feet of snow in our front yard last year.  B***er it!  I had a snowblower delivered on Wednesday. It's been below freezing for a week now.  The gods must be smiling on the 2010 Winter Games in Vancouver and Whistler.
Flakes of snow this morning.

Even Australia is getting a sea delivery of major ice :-)

Eric





 "Misfortune tests the sincerity of friends." - Aesop (c.620-560 BC)




________________________________
From: Juliet Keiler <lingfield51 at btinternet.com>
To: Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Cc: mg004d4060 at blueyonder.co.uk
Sent: Fri, December 11, 2009 2:01:16 AM
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Heater Plug and Cable


Hi Roy,


Mark Gray of the Rover P6 Club has sent me some pics of his unit which differs from mine, pics below. His does seem to have an earth lead connection unlike mine which I think earths through the slip ring.

The talk of flimsy cables for NADA area is a bit worrying, particularly in light of the severe winters you get. The irony is if the glabal warming guys are right our cars may soon require an extra engine cooler !  :)

Alan Francis (partviking)




http://s844.photobucket.com/albums/ab6/partviking/?action=view&current=Heater4.jpg

http://s844.photobucket.com/albums/ab6/partviking/?action=view&current=Heater3.jpg

http://s844.photobucket.com/albums/ab6/partviking/?action=view&current=Heater2.jpg

________________________________
 Looking for the perfect gift?Give the gift of Flickr!
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From phing at videotron.ca  Fri Dec 11 15:16:37 2009
From: phing at videotron.ca (Patrick Hiron)
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2009 15:16:37 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Heater Cord
In-Reply-To: <3147BBF1-464B-452F-B5AB-C08BEA7C3161@inkspotco.com>
References: <713722.60032.qm@web86007.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
	<3147BBF1-464B-452F-B5AB-C08BEA7C3161@inkspotco.com>
Message-ID: <000c01ca7a9e$d7de9330$879bb990$@ca>

Hi 

 The Bray heater is probably a UK supplied item which would operate at 240
volts . This explains the ultra robust " fell off a Lancaster bomber "
construction  . The power line connector looks very much like the power feed
to my Mum's old electric iron back in Birmingham .

I've only ever seen the lamp cord type cables in N America 

Cheers 

 Patrick 

 

From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Vern Klukas
Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2009 6:36 PM
To: Partviking; The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Heater Cord

 

I'd kill for a heavy duty setup like that. I've seen a lot of P6s over the
years and I have never seen a block heater like that here in Canada, they
are always the style Roy has, with a simple lampcord type cable.

 

Yours

Vern

 

On 2009-12-10, at 1:04 PM, Partviking wrote:





Hi Roy,
    As you can see from the photos the cable is not an everyday item though
no doubt you could 'cobble' something together. 

http://s844.photobucket.com/albums/ab6/partviking/?action=view
<http://s844.photobucket.com/albums/ab6/partviking/?action=view&current=Bray
Heater001-1.jpg> &current=BrayHeater001-1.jpg

Alan Francis (partviking)

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Rovernet at rovernet.ca
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From defender110 at ozemail.com.au  Fri Dec 11 15:37:28 2009
From: defender110 at ozemail.com.au (David Read)
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2009 07:07:28 +1030
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Ice delivery
In-Reply-To: <94078.6646.qm@web34303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <425115.38992.qm@web86007.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
	<94078.6646.qm@web34303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4B22AD88.3080908@ozemail.com.au>

Yeah, along with a whole heap of illegal immigrants.
What will these "boat people" think of next!!

;-)

Cheers
Dave
South Oz

Eric Russell wrote:

<snip>
> 
> Even Australia is getting a sea delivery of major ice :-)
> 
> Eric


From vmitps at netspace.net.au  Sun Dec 13 04:50:59 2009
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2009 20:50:59 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] engine color, was heater cord?
In-Reply-To: <837B71CF-4FD5-4C26-849B-C5DF2F8AA8F3@telusplanet.net>
References: <837B71CF-4FD5-4C26-849B-C5DF2F8AA8F3@telusplanet.net>
Message-ID: <9A42F4B3429C438C861259332E98AEE9@Vista>

The seal is just an O-ring.

PVS

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Roy Babiuk" <rababiuk at telusplanet.net>
To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Friday, December 11, 2009 4:45 AM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] engine color, was heater cord?


Well, when the engine was being rebuilt, they neglected to ask what
color it should be and just went ahead and painted it... So, its black.

Looks good, and, unfortunately, with all the top end parts in place,
the block color isn't really visible anyway.
Engines in, ran nice in the shop, and was driven onto the car hauler
without difficulty. But she wouldn't start after the two hour trailer
ride home in -26? C.
After pushing the car into the garage, I noticed a fuel odor and found
after some investigation that someone had also pulled my reserve tap
which probably hasn't been operated in at least 23 years...
So now I'm waiting for my replacement fuel tap to swap out with the
one leaking slowly in my garage...
For now, battery out and charging, and sitting with margarine
containers strategically placed to catch most of the dripping fuel..

Roy


_______________________________________________
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From j_radcliffe at hotmail.com  Sun Dec 13 12:16:11 2009
From: j_radcliffe at hotmail.com (James Radcliffe)
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2009 12:16:11 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Fuel tanks and o-rings.
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1.1260723615.7247.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
References: <mailman.1.1260723615.7247.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <SNT105-W12940F046A63CA1E2E057E8E8A0@phx.gbl>




> From: rovernet-request at rovernet.ca
> Subject: Rovernet Digest, Vol 18, Issue 13
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2009 12:00:15 -0500
> 
> Send Rovernet mailing list submissions to
> 	rovernet at rovernet.ca
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> 	http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> 	rovernet-request at rovernet.ca
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> 	rovernet-owner at rovernet.ca
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Rovernet digest..."
> 
> 
> Please edit your digest reply by changing the subject line to the topic to which you are referring.
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>    1. Re: engine color, was heater cord? (Netspace)
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2009 20:50:59 +1100
> From: "Netspace" <vmitps at netspace.net.au>
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] engine color, was heater cord?
> To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts."
> 	<rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Message-ID: <9A42F4B3429C438C861259332E98AEE9 at Vista>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> 	reply-type=response
> 
> The seal is just an O-ring.
> 
> PVS
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Roy Babiuk" <rababiuk at telusplanet.net>
> To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Sent: Friday, December 11, 2009 4:45 AM
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] engine color, was heater cord?
> 
> 
> Well, when the engine was being rebuilt, they neglected to ask what
> color it should be and just went ahead and painted it... So, its black.
> 
> Looks good, and, unfortunately, with all the top end parts in place,
> the block color isn't really visible anyway.
> Engines in, ran nice in the shop, and was driven onto the car hauler
> without difficulty. But she wouldn't start after the two hour trailer
> ride home in -26? C.
> After pushing the car into the garage, I noticed a fuel odor and found
> after some investigation that someone had also pulled my reserve tap
> which probably hasn't been operated in at least 23 years...
> So now I'm waiting for my replacement fuel tap to swap out with the
> one leaking slowly in my garage...
> For now, battery out and charging, and sitting with margarine
> containers strategically placed to catch most of the dripping fuel..
> 
> Roy
> 

You can probably match the o ring up at your local NAPA or equivalent store.
Ray Weekley has them:

http://www.rover-classics.co.uk/partslist/result.php?category=7

It might be a good idea to check the fuel tank for rust and general cleanliness also, since I suspect that it is empty at the moment. To do this remove the fuel lines from the fuel sender, take off the wires, then undo the lock ring with a brass drift, or the notch in the slave stud for putting the head back on works very well. Then the sender will come right out. Have a look inside with a flash light for rust. My tank was full of rust and I had to have it cleaned out and coated. I had to run new fuel lines as well, as they were chocked full of rust too.

James.
 		 	   		  
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222986/direct/01/
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From rababiuk at telusplanet.net  Sun Dec 13 13:30:30 2009
From: rababiuk at telusplanet.net (Roy Babiuk)
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2009 11:30:30 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Fuel tank and O rings
Message-ID: <3CCE1EED-DBFC-4EC5-8AF7-9BB65EFE5592@telusplanet.net>

Hey all, Thanks for the replies.

I do have a replacement fuel tap coming, which I will swap with the  
faulty one, and will keep the old one for back up, after replacing the  
O ring.

James, the restoration shop said the tank was good. They had the  
sender out to replace the sealing gasket. I will have to ask again if  
they examined the tank further.
Thanks again to all forum members for the helpful information!

Roy


From magnet at roverclub.org  Mon Dec 14 15:00:00 2009
From: magnet at roverclub.org (Magnet)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 15:00:00 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Fwd: Rover 3500S Wanted
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP99671415E9D5DABC45FAA091890@phx.gbl>

G'day all,

I received the following from a chap in Hamilton, Ontario.  Anyone 
looking to sell a P6B might want to give him a shout.

Cheers,

 -- Bill Daddis

T.A.R.C.

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	
From: 	Mark Dren <mdren at pareto.ca>
To: 	<magnet at roverclub.org>



Hi,

 

I am not a member of your club but I was wondering if you would be able 
to post a wanted ad or put me in touch with someone who wants to sell a 
P6 3500S? The car I am looking for can be anywhere from show condition 
to driver quality, and the preferred color combination is Red on Black 
leather. I am not looking to take on a complete project or basket case. 
My father had a nice Red on Black 3500S about 20 years ago and we now 
have a business Red Rover Auto Sales in Hamilton named after that car.

 

**Mark Dren** ARS - Program Manager 

**T  **905-592-5011**  M  **647-989-6343**   E mdren at pareto.ca 
<mailto:mdren at pareto.ca>**


 



From phing at videotron.ca  Mon Dec 14 18:28:52 2009
From: phing at videotron.ca (Patrick Hiron)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 18:28:52 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Fwd: Rover 3500S Wanted
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP99671415E9D5DABC45FAA091890@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU0-SMTP99671415E9D5DABC45FAA091890@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000c01ca7d15$325d7010$97185030$@ca>

Bill 
 There was no attachment . Please forward it to me 
 Thanks 
 Patrick 

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Magnet
Sent: Monday, December 14, 2009 3:00 PM
To: ROVERNET
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Fwd: Rover 3500S Wanted

G'day all,

I received the following from a chap in Hamilton, Ontario.  Anyone 
looking to sell a P6B might want to give him a shout.

Cheers,

 -- Bill Daddis

T.A.R.C.

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	
From: 	Mark Dren <mdren at pareto.ca>
To: 	<magnet at roverclub.org>



Hi,

 

I am not a member of your club but I was wondering if you would be able 
to post a wanted ad or put me in touch with someone who wants to sell a 
P6 3500S? The car I am looking for can be anywhere from show condition 
to driver quality, and the preferred color combination is Red on Black 
leather. I am not looking to take on a complete project or basket case. 
My father had a nice Red on Black 3500S about 20 years ago and we now 
have a business Red Rover Auto Sales in Hamilton named after that car.

 

**Mark Dren** ARS - Program Manager 

**T  **905-592-5011**  M  **647-989-6343**   E mdren at pareto.ca 
<mailto:mdren at pareto.ca>**


 


_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here are the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/



From p6rovers at yahoo.com  Mon Dec 14 19:33:00 2009
From: p6rovers at yahoo.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 16:33:00 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Fwd: Rover 3500S Wanted
In-Reply-To: <000c01ca7d15$325d7010$97185030$@ca>
References: <BLU0-SMTP99671415E9D5DABC45FAA091890@phx.gbl>
	<000c01ca7d15$325d7010$97185030$@ca>
Message-ID: <656127.539.qm@web34307.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Patrick,
Scroll down the message *really* far  :-)
Eric


 "Misfortune tests the sincerity of friends." - Aesop (c.620-560 BC)



----- Original Message ----
From: Patrick Hiron <phing at videotron.ca>
To: magnet at roverclub.org; The original list for Rover car enthusiasts. <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Mon, December 14, 2009 3:28:52 PM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Fwd: Rover 3500S Wanted

Bill 
There was no attachment . Please forward it to me 
Thanks 
Patrick 

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Magnet
Sent: Monday, December 14, 2009 3:00 PM
To: ROVERNET
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Fwd: Rover 3500S Wanted

G'day all,

I received the following from a chap in Hamilton, Ontario.  Anyone 
looking to sell a P6B might want to give him a shout.

Cheers,

-- Bill Daddis

T.A.R.C.

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    
From:     Mark Dren <mdren at pareto.ca>
To:     <magnet at roverclub.org>



Hi,



I am not a member of your club but I was wondering if you would be able 
to post a wanted ad or put me in touch with someone who wants to sell a 
P6 3500S? The car I am looking for can be anywhere from show condition 
to driver quality, and the preferred color combination is Red on Black 
leather. I am not looking to take on a complete project or basket case. 
My father had a nice Red on Black 3500S about 20 years ago and we now 
have a business Red Rover Auto Sales in Hamilton named after that car.



**Mark Dren** ARS - Program Manager 

**T  **905-592-5011**  M  **647-989-6343**   E mdren at pareto.ca 
<mailto:mdren at pareto.ca>**





_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here are the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/


_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here are the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/



      __________________________________________________________________
Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr! 

http://www.flickr.com/gift/


From lingfield51 at btopenworld.com  Wed Dec 16 04:46:28 2009
From: lingfield51 at btopenworld.com (Partviking)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 09:46:28 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Merry Christmas
Message-ID: <877749.6011.qm@web86005.mail.ird.yahoo.com>



Just wanted to wish everyone on the list a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. 


In the words of Frankie Howard aka Lurcio in Up Pompei "May your ass never be overburdened and your bullocks never tethered" 


Alan Francis (aka partviking)................Big ass no bullocks! 
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From raymond.wilkins at bigpond.com  Sat Dec 19 18:10:01 2009
From: raymond.wilkins at bigpond.com (Ray Wilkins)
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2009 10:10:01 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Test
Message-ID: <4B2D5D49.1090802@bigpond.com>

Very quiet!!


From den at aachenkennels.com  Sat Dec 19 18:58:01 2009
From: den at aachenkennels.com (Dennis Gallacher)
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2009 08:58:01 +0900
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3 litre P4 engine
References: <4B2D5D49.1090802@bigpond.com>
Message-ID: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160819A2@Server.adoptsec.local>

Anyone heard of a 3 litre factory engine for the P4??

Den Gallacher


From kkinard at att.net  Sat Dec 19 20:16:31 2009
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 2009 19:16:31 -0600
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3 litre P4 engine
In-Reply-To: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160819A2@Server.adoptsec.local>
References: <4B2D5D49.1090802@bigpond.com>
	<73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160819A2@Server.adoptsec.local>
Message-ID: <4B2D7AEF.5040106@att.net>

Hi Dennis,
Don't know about "factory", but my P4/100 has a P5 Mk.I 3L7 that I 
installed.

Roverly,
Kent K.

Dennis Gallacher wrote:
> Anyone heard of a 3 litre factory engine for the P4??
>
> Den Gallacher
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here are the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>   



From dirk at vy-tek.com  Sun Dec 20 13:51:28 2009
From: dirk at vy-tek.com (Dirk Burrowes)
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2009 13:51:28 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rovernet Digest, Vol 18, Issue 17
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1261328415.21289.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <93A0947D36D743EB8AE7C699FBA4D7B3@DirkPC2>

Hi Dennis,

There actually were about 10 P4s both early years and then near the end of
the 110 line that Rover experimented with 3 litre engines in P4s. In fact
most of the top end components from a 100 and later P4 engine are the same
as MK1/1a and MK2 P5s. The main difference between a late P4 and mid model
P5 3 litre is the head and carburetion and 50 cc per cylinder. You can also
directly bolt in a 3 litre into a P3 and a P4 all years but the transmission
is the challenge.

Hope that helps
Dirk 

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of rovernet-request at rovernet.ca
Sent: Sunday, December 20, 2009 12:00 PM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: Rovernet Digest, Vol 18, Issue 17

Send Rovernet mailing list submissions to
	rovernet at rovernet.ca

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
	http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
	rovernet-request at rovernet.ca

You can reach the person managing the list at
	rovernet-owner at rovernet.ca

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than
"Re: Contents of Rovernet digest..."


Please edit your digest reply by changing the subject line to the topic to
which you are referring.

Today's Topics:

   1. Test (Ray Wilkins)
   2. 3 litre P4 engine (Dennis Gallacher)
   3. Re: 3 litre P4 engine (Kent Kinard)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2009 10:10:01 +1100
From: Ray Wilkins <raymond.wilkins at bigpond.com>
To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts."
	<rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Test
Message-ID: <4B2D5D49.1090802 at bigpond.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Very quiet!!



------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2009 08:58:01 +0900
From: "Dennis Gallacher" <den at aachenkennels.com>
To: <raymond.wilkins at bigpond.com>,	"The original list for Rover car
	enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3 litre P4 engine
Message-ID:
	<73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160819A2 at Server.adoptsec.local>
Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="us-ascii"

Anyone heard of a 3 litre factory engine for the P4??

Den Gallacher



------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 2009 19:16:31 -0600
From: Kent Kinard <kkinard at att.net>
To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts."
	<rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3 litre P4 engine
Message-ID: <4B2D7AEF.5040106 at att.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Hi Dennis,
Don't know about "factory", but my P4/100 has a P5 Mk.I 3L7 that I
installed.

Roverly,
Kent K.

Dennis Gallacher wrote:
> Anyone heard of a 3 litre factory engine for the P4??
>
> Den Gallacher
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here are the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>   




------------------------------

_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
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Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
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End of Rovernet Digest, Vol 18, Issue 17
****************************************




From carstuff3 at gmail.com  Sun Dec 20 15:45:55 2009
From: carstuff3 at gmail.com (Gordon Harrower)
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2009 15:45:55 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Lockheed Servo in a P5
Message-ID: <b1e213c40912201245v7e842feew6289def8920c2f53@mail.gmail.com>

I've heard about people putting a Lockheed servo in a P5, but would like to
know how they did it.  The Lockheed servo I have is from a TC and has
mounting bolts on the back, whereas the Girling servo from the P5 is mounted
from the side.  If someone has built a bracket or something, pictures or at
least an explanation would be very helpful.

Thanks, Gordon.
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From adrian.mcdonald at live.com  Sun Dec 20 16:06:43 2009
From: adrian.mcdonald at live.com (Adrian McDonald)
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2009 13:06:43 -0800
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Federal 3500S Project Car Available
Message-ID: <BLU129-W134CBA5069D3E8EC472DE19E830@phx.gbl>


Hi all

 

As I will be moving house soon, I am sizing up options for my automobile mini collection. I have a neat 2000TC that must stay, but I also have a 3500S that I am rejuvenating. Mechanically it is in good shape, with new springs and shocks at the back; I put some magnum wheels and hubs on from a 2000 which are pretty smart. I rubbed down all the panels and dealt with the minor dings and scratches so it's pretty smooth in luxuriant primer grey all over. Interior carpeting is shot. Seats are good however. Engine about 100K in pretty decent order, and it drives fine. I am not sure what to do with it, but if there is anyone out there who is after such a vehicle then I could let it go to a good home. It is not anywhere near scrap material.

 

Alternatively I am looking for storage space in North County San Diego, or even better a surprise elderly benefactor with half a mil to give away so I can buy a house with a 4 car garage and driveway.....

 

cheers

Adrian
 		 	   		  
_________________________________________________________________
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From den at aachenkennels.com  Sun Dec 20 18:32:30 2009
From: den at aachenkennels.com (Dennis Gallacher)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 08:32:30 +0900
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3 litre P4 engine
References: <93A0947D36D743EB8AE7C699FBA4D7B3@DirkPC2>
Message-ID: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160819B4@Server.adoptsec.local>

Thanks Dirk, 

any idea where I can find documentation or proof that Rover released the
3 Litre P4. The reason for these questions is the rules for getting a
road worthy inspection in West Australia is you can change or swap the
engines as long as its within 20% of the factory made car. I have a
friend who has a Rover V8 in his P4 that will soon be ready for the road
(?). If we can prove that Rover did in fact make a 3lte then he should
have no problems.

Any help with finding the paperwork.
Den.

-----Original Message-----
Hi Dennis,

There actually were about 10 P4s both early years and then near the end
of
the 110 line that Rover experimented with 3 litre engines in P4s. In
fact
most of the top end components from a 100 and later P4 engine are the
same
as MK1/1a and MK2 P5s. The main difference between a late P4 and mid
model
P5 3 litre is the head and carburetion and 50 cc per cylinder. You can
also
directly bolt in a 3 litre into a P3 and a P4 all years but the
transmission
is the challenge.

Hope that helps
Dirk 



Today's Topics:

   1. Test (Ray Wilkins)
   2. 3 litre P4 engine (Dennis Gallacher)
   3. Re: 3 litre P4 engine (Kent Kinard)



Anyone heard of a 3 litre factory engine for the P4??

Den Gallacher



------------------------------



From rovercar at comcast.net  Sun Dec 20 19:56:59 2009
From: rovercar at comcast.net (Glen Wilson)
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2009 19:56:59 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3 litre P4 engine
In-Reply-To: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160819B4@Server.adoptsec.local>
References: <93A0947D36D743EB8AE7C699FBA4D7B3@DirkPC2>
	<73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160819B4@Server.adoptsec.local>
Message-ID: <4B2EC7DB.7010306@comcast.net>

Dennis Gallacher wrote:
> Thanks Dirk, 
>
> any idea where I can find documentation or proof that Rover released the
> 3 Litre P4. The reason for these questions is the rules for getting a
> road worthy inspection in West Australia is you can change or swap the
> engines as long as its within 20% of the factory made car. I have a
> friend who has a Rover V8 in his P4 that will soon be ready for the road
> (?). If we can prove that Rover did in fact make a 3lte then he should
> have no problems.
>
> Any help with finding the paperwork.
> Den.
>
>   


Den,

They were no 3-litre P4 production vehicles. Just test vehicles and 
private conversions. If I understand your question re the 20% (that it 
is displacement), you would just make it if the 20% were applied to the 
3-litre engine, but you would be out of luck with any production P4 
engine. Can your friend register it under some other category?

Glen

> -----Original Message-----
> Hi Dennis,
>
> There actually were about 10 P4s both early years and then near the end
> of
> the 110 line that Rover experimented with 3 litre engines in P4s. In
> fact
> most of the top end components from a 100 and later P4 engine are the
> same
> as MK1/1a and MK2 P5s. The main difference between a late P4 and mid
> model
> P5 3 litre is the head and carburetion and 50 cc per cylinder. You can
> also
> directly bolt in a 3 litre into a P3 and a P4 all years but the
> transmission
> is the challenge.
>
> Hope that helps
> Dirk 
>
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>    1. Test (Ray Wilkins)
>    2. 3 litre P4 engine (Dennis Gallacher)
>    3. Re: 3 litre P4 engine (Kent Kinard)
>
>
>
> Anyone heard of a 3 litre factory engine for the P4??
>
> Den Gallacher
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here are the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>   



From kkinard at att.net  Sun Dec 20 21:01:11 2009
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2009 20:01:11 -0600
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Lockheed Servo in a P5
In-Reply-To: <b1e213c40912201245v7e842feew6289def8920c2f53@mail.gmail.com>
References: <b1e213c40912201245v7e842feew6289def8920c2f53@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4B2ED6E7.9080700@att.net>

Hi Gordon,
You didn't say whether it was a 7" or 8" servo.  A 7" off a twin servo 
TC may not be big enough.  Moss makes a bracket, but I think it is for 
an 8" servo and you would still have to do some drilling/welding.  They 
sell the bracket for use on big Healeys.  Not cheap.

Roverly,
Kent K.

Gordon Harrower wrote:
> I've heard about people putting a Lockheed servo in a P5, but would 
> like to know how they did it.  The Lockheed servo I have is from a TC 
> and has mounting bolts on the back, whereas the Girling servo from the 
> P5 is mounted from the side.  If someone has built a bracket or 
> something, pictures or at least an explanation would be very helpful.
>
> Thanks, Gordon.
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here are the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/



From peterhut at activ8.net.au  Sun Dec 20 23:33:00 2009
From: peterhut at activ8.net.au (Peter Huttemeier)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 15:33:00 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3 litre P4 engine
In-Reply-To: <4B2EC7DB.7010306@comcast.net>
References: <93A0947D36D743EB8AE7C699FBA4D7B3@DirkPC2>
	<73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160819B4@Server.adoptsec.local>
	<4B2EC7DB.7010306@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <l6uti5patmodqjkn724l0uv74pk80jqfp2@4ax.com>

On Sun, 20 Dec 2009 19:56:59 -0500, you wrote:

>Dennis Gallacher wrote:
>> Thanks Dirk, 
>>
>> any idea where I can find documentation or proof that Rover released the
>> 3 Litre P4. The reason for these questions is the rules for getting a
>> road worthy inspection in West Australia is you can change or swap the
>> engines as long as its within 20% of the factory made car. I have a
>> friend who has a Rover V8 in his P4 that will soon be ready for the road
>> (?). If we can prove that Rover did in fact make a 3lte then he should
>> have no problems.
>>
>> Any help with finding the paperwork.
>> Den.
>>
>>   
>
>
>Den,
>
>They were no 3-litre P4 production vehicles. Just test vehicles and 

The engine for the P4 100 was a seven bearing, short stroke version of
the P5 3 litre giving 2625cc. The engine was then increased in power
for the 110 by the introduction of the "Weslake" head and larger bore
carburettor initially developed to increase performance of the P5.

So, on the face of it, engine size is less than 20% different, would
that then suffice the authorities?

Cheers,

Peter H


From lafbery at telus.net  Mon Dec 21 00:20:39 2009
From: lafbery at telus.net (Barry & Shirley Lafbery)
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2009 21:20:39 -0800
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Lockheed Servo in a P5
In-Reply-To: <4B2ED6E7.9080700@att.net>
References: <b1e213c40912201245v7e842feew6289def8920c2f53@mail.gmail.com>
	<4B2ED6E7.9080700@att.net>
Message-ID: <54FCF3B7723B471CBCB4C2C9FEE6BD02@ChloePC>

Hi Gordon,
                I, and two friends have had a 7" servo from a P6 on our P5s 
for some years now and they work just fine. As far as mounting goes, get a 
piece of flat bar 1/8" x 1" or so wide, drill 2 5/16" holes to match to of 
the studs in the back of the servo, then give it a bend and a twist so as to 
bolt it to the inner fender with 2 5/16" nuts and bolts. Cut the top of the 
original servo mounting bracket leaving one of the 5/16 holes for the 
sap-strap, and tie the P6 servo to it with a large sap-strap, works fine. 
You have to make a new line from the out of the servo to go to the union 
that is just under where the servo fits. The fitting in the servo is a 
bubble flare, you can buy a Weatherhead fitting # 1441 this will convert it 
to a double flare. make sure they don't give you a metric one as they often 
put them in the wrong bin as they look the same, a metric one will have a 
grove around the hex end, take a 3/8" fine nut with you and try it on the 
thread before you leave the store. The in line from the master cylinder can 
be adjusted to fit if you put the servo in the right position

Barry P2-P3-P5



> Gordon Harrower wrote:
>> I've heard about people putting a Lockheed servo in a P5, but would
>> like to know how they did it.  The Lockheed servo I have is from a TC
>> and has mounting bolts on the back, whereas the Girling servo from the
>> P5 is mounted from the side.  If someone has built a bracket or
>> something, pictures or at least an explanation would be very helpful.
>>
>> Thanks, Gordon.
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Rovernet mailing list
>> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or 
>> no-mail:
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>> Here are the old Rovernet archives:
>> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
>> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here are the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



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07:35:00



From rovercar at comcast.net  Mon Dec 21 00:22:32 2009
From: rovercar at comcast.net (Glen Wilson)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 00:22:32 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3 litre P4 engine
In-Reply-To: <l6uti5patmodqjkn724l0uv74pk80jqfp2@4ax.com>
References: <93A0947D36D743EB8AE7C699FBA4D7B3@DirkPC2>	<73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160819B4@Server.adoptsec.local>	<4B2EC7DB.7010306@comcast.net>
	<l6uti5patmodqjkn724l0uv74pk80jqfp2@4ax.com>
Message-ID: <4B2F0618.5000009@comcast.net>

Peter Huttemeier wrote:
> The engine for the P4 100 was a seven bearing, short stroke version of
> the P5 3 litre giving 2625cc. The engine was then increased in power
> for the 110 by the introduction of the "Weslake" head and larger bore
> carburettor initially developed to increase performance of the P5.
>
> So, on the face of it, engine size is less than 20% different, would
> that then suffice the authorities?
>
> Cheers,
>
> Peter H
>   

Peter,

Den was looking for documents to establish the existence of a production 
3-litre P4.

If they are going by displacement and production records, he's out of luck.

That said, I don't know why the government should care so much about an 
engine swap in such an old car. On the other hand, I wouldn't blame the 
government one bit if they wanted to classify this car as a "hot rod" or 
"custom car" as they might in my state. In my state, this car would not 
technically qualify as a classic car, although they would never actually 
come to your home and inspect it. In my state, this V8 P4 would be 
classified as a "collectible vehicle." If the changes were primarily 
restricted to the drivetrain, they don't require much documentation, but 
if it were a "low-rider" or extreme custom, you would have to document a 
lot of the changes to the suspension and so forth. Collectible vehicles 
"must primarily be used for show and must appear to be in ?show? 
condition in the photographs submitted with the application."

It's always fascinating to see what's important in various localities 
around the world.

Glen


From defender110 at ozemail.com.au  Mon Dec 21 03:35:50 2009
From: defender110 at ozemail.com.au (David Read)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 19:05:50 +1030
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Concessional registration [WAS: 3 litre
	P4 engine]
In-Reply-To: <4B2F0618.5000009@comcast.net>
References: <93A0947D36D743EB8AE7C699FBA4D7B3@DirkPC2>	<73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160819B4@Server.adoptsec.local>	<4B2EC7DB.7010306@comcast.net>	<l6uti5patmodqjkn724l0uv74pk80jqfp2@4ax.com>
	<4B2F0618.5000009@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4B2F3366.4070001@ozemail.com.au>

Hi Glen
Here is what we in South Oz must bear if we wish to take advantage of the state's concessional "Historic Registration" scheme.
This scheme allows concessional (cheaper) registration, provided that the vehicle is driven no more than 90 days in the year.
The 90 days can be used as individual days, a single block or a combination of the two.
A log book must kept and used as "evidence" & approved club inspection and membership is mandatory.

Official stuff ....(yawn)
http://www.sa.gov.au/upload/franchise/Transport,%20travel%20and%20motoring/Registration/code_of_practice_historic.pdf

Extract from the above listing the allowed vehicle modifications .... (not many)
http://www.docsa.com.au/Club%20Info/Eligibility%20Criteria%20for%20Historic%20Registration.pdf

Fees ....
http://www.transport.sa.gov.au/fees/historic_vehicles_reg_fees.asp

Different Oz states have different rules ..... South Oz is considered the most Draconian.

My P6B will be quite costly to historically register
I have started with the carb setup .....
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~defender110 at ozemail.com.au/mypage/rover_sedan_pages.htm

Cheers
Dave
South Oz

Glen Wilson wrote:
<snip>
> 
> It's always fascinating to see what's important in various localities 
> around the world.
> 
> Glen
<snip>


From den at aachenkennels.com  Mon Dec 21 17:27:52 2009
From: den at aachenkennels.com (Dennis Gallacher)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 07:27:52 +0900
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] was 3 litre P4 engine. NOW P2 ENGINE MODS
References: <93A0947D36D743EB8AE7C699FBA4D7B3@DirkPC2><73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160819B4@Server.adoptsec.local><4B2EC7DB.7010306@comcast.net>
	<l6uti5patmodqjkn724l0uv74pk80jqfp2@4ax.com>
Message-ID: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160819C8@Server.adoptsec.local>

Thanks for writing in chaps, good of you all to help.

  2.7 +20% from the P4 is not far from the Rover 3.5 v8 guess the best
way forward is to go and ask vehicle licensing direct and see what that
say. For me this is something for the future but for my mate he's done
it however I'm not sure when he will finish and have it ready for the
road. Mind you it is very tastefully done and unless you knew what was
under the bonnet you would never know??.



Something that I do need help on is I was reading through the RSR P2
Manuel on rebuilding the engine. The writer has recommended that when
rebuilding one of these old engine to balance as many moving parts as
you can, crank ,clutch piston so on. As I am at the stage of building
the 47 16HP motor for the sports special I need to have something to
give the engineering shop. Can anyone help with suggestion?  Already
have the valve seats being done. Also I want to re profile the cam lobes
again anyone have any Tec details on what to ask for.?

Den.




From peter_m at amnet.net.au  Tue Dec 22 04:18:44 2009
From: peter_m at amnet.net.au (Peter Mitchell)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 17:18:44 +0800
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3.5 litre V8 P4
In-Reply-To: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160819C8@Server.adoptsec.local>
References: <93A0947D36D743EB8AE7C699FBA4D7B3@DirkPC2><73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160819B4@Server.adoptsec.local><4B2EC7DB.7010306@comcast.net>	<l6uti5patmodqjkn724l0uv74pk80jqfp2@4ax.com>
	<73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160819C8@Server.adoptsec.local>
Message-ID: <001b01ca82e7$c32b6de0$498249a0$@net.au>

I am sure that members will have varying opinions on fitting a Rover V8 to a
P4; I have seen one V8-powered P4 on the Internet and will try to find it
again for Dennis.

My dad had a couple of P4's after our P3 retired, and they did take a bit of
winding up. So my personal view is a V8 could help them keep up in modern
traffic, with better braking to match, why not?   One commonly sees Mark II
Jaguars advertised for sale with later 5-speed box together with the old box
to retrofit if required, so if converting keep the original engine to hand
over. I am very fond of the P4 but I do like the power of my P6B.

Incidentally, I tried browsing for the article about the V8-powered P4; I
looked on the 'V8Forum' site, found posting by Den Gallacher. A small world!

Peter Mitchell






E-mail message checked by Internet Security (6.0.1.441)
Database version: 6.13960
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From scottsoldautorubber at bigpond.com.au  Tue Dec 22 17:31:56 2009
From: scottsoldautorubber at bigpond.com.au (Scott Richmond)
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2009 09:31:56 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3.5 litre V8 P4
References: <93A0947D36D743EB8AE7C699FBA4D7B3@DirkPC2><73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160819B4@Server.adoptsec.local><4B2EC7DB.7010306@comcast.net>	<l6uti5patmodqjkn724l0uv74pk80jqfp2@4ax.com><73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160819C8@Server.adoptsec.local>
	<001b01ca82e7$c32b6de0$498249a0$@net.au>
Message-ID: <36A587F9ECF3494DA2D58B3FA85E0380@userpc>

I had a V8 powered P4, it was a very exciting vehicle to own, I have an 
article on my web site if you would care to see it. The car was put together 
with as few modifications to the structure as possible, only the engine 
mounts were welded, everything else bolted in. 
http://www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au/Rover%20P4B.htm
Thankyou,
Scott.

www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au
Open 9 - 5.00 Monday to Friday.
Closed Saturday and Sunday.
Automotive Rubber and Seals for Many Makes and Models,
P.O. Box 105, Mount Waverley 3149
12 Haughton Road, Oakleigh, Melbourne 3166,  Australia.
Phone and Fax: + 61- 3 - 9563 3023
http://www.xe.net/pca/ (Currency Converter)


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Peter Mitchell" <peter_m at amnet.net.au>
To: "'The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.'" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, December 22, 2009 8:18 PM
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3.5 litre V8 P4


>I am sure that members will have varying opinions on fitting a Rover V8 to 
>a
> P4; I have seen one V8-powered P4 on the Internet and will try to find it
> again for Dennis.
>
> My dad had a couple of P4's after our P3 retired, and they did take a bit 
> of
> winding up. So my personal view is a V8 could help them keep up in modern
> traffic, with better braking to match, why not?   One commonly sees Mark 
> II
> Jaguars advertised for sale with later 5-speed box together with the old 
> box
> to retrofit if required, so if converting keep the original engine to hand
> over. I am very fond of the P4 but I do like the power of my P6B.
>
> Incidentally, I tried browsing for the article about the V8-powered P4; I
> looked on the 'V8Forum' site, found posting by Den Gallacher. A small 
> world!
>
> Peter Mitchell
>
>
>
>
>
>
> E-mail message checked by Internet Security (6.0.1.441)
> Database version: 6.13960
> http://www.pctools.com/en/internet-security/
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here are the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
>
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From rababiuk at telusplanet.net  Tue Dec 22 21:54:10 2009
From: rababiuk at telusplanet.net (Roy Babiuk)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 19:54:10 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Heater cord found
Message-ID: <54134FF1-D394-4D00-8367-298CF6B7BAA5@telusplanet.net>

Finally found a local partsman who knew his products.
The last pic shows the part number if anyone else is in need of this  
cord.

http://s640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/cdnp6/?albumview=slideshow

Roy


From peter_m at amnet.net.au  Tue Dec 22 22:59:03 2009
From: peter_m at amnet.net.au (Peter Mitchell)
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2009 11:59:03 +0800
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3.5 litre V8 P4
In-Reply-To: <36A587F9ECF3494DA2D58B3FA85E0380@userpc>
References: <93A0947D36D743EB8AE7C699FBA4D7B3@DirkPC2><73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160819B4@Server.adoptsec.local><4B2EC7DB.7010306@comcast.net>	<l6uti5patmodqjkn724l0uv74pk80jqfp2@4ax.com><73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160819C8@Server.adoptsec.local>	<001b01ca82e7$c32b6de0$498249a0$@net.au>
	<36A587F9ECF3494DA2D58B3FA85E0380@userpc>
Message-ID: <001a01ca8384$448355a0$cd8a00e0$@net.au>

Scott,

I had seen your article - it was the one I had been thinking of.  While it
would depend on individual preferences, personally I'd love a P4B!

Peter






E-mail message checked by Internet Security (6.0.1.441)
Database version: 6.13960
http://www.pctools.com/en/internet-security/


From phing at videotron.ca  Tue Dec 22 23:29:54 2009
From: phing at videotron.ca (Patrick Hiron)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 23:29:54 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Heater cord found
In-Reply-To: <54134FF1-D394-4D00-8367-298CF6B7BAA5@telusplanet.net>
References: <54134FF1-D394-4D00-8367-298CF6B7BAA5@telusplanet.net>
Message-ID: <000001ca8388$93d2d820$bb788860$@ca>

Roy 
 Thanks . This looks as if it would fit the block heater in my 1970 Canadian
P6B
Patrick 

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Roy Babiuk
Sent: Tuesday, December 22, 2009 9:54 PM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Heater cord found

Finally found a local partsman who knew his products.
The last pic shows the part number if anyone else is in need of this  
cord.

http://s640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/cdnp6/?albumview=slideshow

Roy

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From gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com  Wed Dec 23 05:55:19 2009
From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com (gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com)
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2009 11:55:19 +0100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] R:  3.5 litre V8 P4, and best wishes
In-Reply-To: <36A587F9ECF3494DA2D58B3FA85E0380@userpc>
References: <93A0947D36D743EB8AE7C699FBA4D7B3@DirkPC2><73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160819B4@Server.adoptsec.local><4B2EC7DB.7010306@comcast.net>	<l6uti5patmodqjkn724l0uv74pk80jqfp2@4ax.com><73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160819C8@Server.adoptsec.local><001b01ca82e7$c32b6de0$498249a0$@net.au>
	<36A587F9ECF3494DA2D58B3FA85E0380@userpc>
Message-ID: <7EA0B53FA850DC43BE282D0A8AC85BE301B1AF03@E30IYLM1.risorse.enel>


 Dear friends, 

	it is very interesting!

I will foreward the link to the friends of registro italiano Riover, to let them know.

Now, today it is dec the 23rd, so happy christmas and happy new year to the friensds of the ring!

Today I will leave and go home by train, tomorrow I will go to switzerland for some days.

Best regards and hear you soon, Gianluca.

-----Messaggio originale-----
Da: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] Per conto di Scott Richmond
Inviato: marted? 22 dicembre 2009 23.32
A: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
Oggetto: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3.5 litre V8 P4

I had a V8 powered P4, it was a very exciting vehicle to own, I have an article on my web site if you would care to see it. The car was put together with as few modifications to the structure as possible, only the engine mounts were welded, everything else bolted in. 
http://www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au/Rover%20P4B.htm
Thankyou,
Scott.

www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au
Open 9 - 5.00 Monday to Friday.
Closed Saturday and Sunday.
Automotive Rubber and Seals for Many Makes and Models, P.O. Box 105, Mount Waverley 3149
12 Haughton Road, Oakleigh, Melbourne 3166,  Australia.
Phone and Fax: + 61- 3 - 9563 3023
http://www.xe.net/pca/ (Currency Converter)


----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Mitchell" <peter_m at amnet.net.au>
To: "'The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.'" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, December 22, 2009 8:18 PM
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3.5 litre V8 P4


>I am sure that members will have varying opinions on fitting a Rover V8 to 
>a
> P4; I have seen one V8-powered P4 on the Internet and will try to find it
> again for Dennis.
>
> My dad had a couple of P4's after our P3 retired, and they did take a bit 
> of
> winding up. So my personal view is a V8 could help them keep up in modern
> traffic, with better braking to match, why not?   One commonly sees Mark 
> II
> Jaguars advertised for sale with later 5-speed box together with the old 
> box
> to retrofit if required, so if converting keep the original engine to hand
> over. I am very fond of the P4 but I do like the power of my P6B.
>
> Incidentally, I tried browsing for the article about the V8-powered P4; I
> looked on the 'V8Forum' site, found posting by Den Gallacher. A small 
> world!
>
> Peter Mitchell
>
>
>
>
>
>
> E-mail message checked by Internet Security (6.0.1.441)
> Database version: 6.13960
> http://www.pctools.com/en/internet-security/
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here are the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
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_______________________________________________
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Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
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Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
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From rover2000nut at hotmail.com  Thu Dec 24 14:32:33 2009
From: rover2000nut at hotmail.com (Bill Robertson)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 19:32:33 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Merry Xmas
Message-ID: <BAY119-W12E747FC2D00893F0CC385DE7F0@phx.gbl>


Merry Xmas and Happy New Year to all  and may all your Rover travels be trouble free.........HO HO HO

Cheers

Bill Robertson
 		 	   		  
_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live: Make it easier for your friends to see what you?re up to on Facebook.
http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9691816
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From kkinard at att.net  Thu Dec 24 15:41:16 2009
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 14:41:16 -0600
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Merry Christmas (OT)
Message-ID: <4B33D1EC.3040109@att.net>

The Buddhist lady who is one of our childcare providers was putting up 
Christmas decorations.  I asked her if she minded doing "Christmas" and 
she replied, "Oh, no.  We do Christmas at our house."  That posed all 
sorts of questions for me, but it encouraged me to just throw it out 
there for everyone, so "Merry Christmas to one and all."

...and a Roverly New Year.
Kent K.


From p6rovers at yahoo.com  Thu Dec 24 17:10:03 2009
From: p6rovers at yahoo.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 14:10:03 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Fw: Happy Holidays!
Message-ID: <486046.35229.qm@web34305.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

----- Forwarded Message ----
From: RoverAmerica <cars at roveramerica.com>
To: "p6rovers at yahoo.com" <p6rovers at yahoo.com>
Sent: Thu, December 24, 2009 11:26:44 AM
Subject: Happy Holidays!

 
Details on RoveAmerica 2010 coming soon at RoverAmerica.com

OR

http://www.roveramerica.com/

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
   
Details on RoveAmerica 2010 coming soon at RoverAmerica.com!
 
Warm wishes,
Dirk Burrowes


      __________________________________________________________________
Yahoo! Canada Toolbar: Search from anywhere on the web, and bookmark your favourite sites. Download it now
http://ca.toolbar.yahoo.com.


From rababiuk at telusplanet.net  Sat Dec 26 12:50:12 2009
From: rababiuk at telusplanet.net (Roy Babiuk)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2009 10:50:12 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Removal of...
Message-ID: <0DD3E4DA-C0C3-419A-96E0-0CA6708BD912@telusplanet.net>

#1: For those with simulated wood steering wheels with large round  
viking logo;
How do you remove the boss, and then the wheel itself.
Does the wheel come of the splines easily or is a puller needed?

#2: For those who have redone their interior floorpans, what did you  
use to remove the old carpet adhesive from sills etc?
Can this be done without stripping the underlaying paint?

Thanks for any assistance.

Roy


From p6rovers at yahoo.com  Sat Dec 26 16:49:33 2009
From: p6rovers at yahoo.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2009 13:49:33 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Removal of...
In-Reply-To: <0DD3E4DA-C0C3-419A-96E0-0CA6708BD912@telusplanet.net>
References: <0DD3E4DA-C0C3-419A-96E0-0CA6708BD912@telusplanet.net>
Message-ID: <782939.91462.qm@web34306.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Put on your hard hat and face shield in case of error.
The logo is encased in plastic and glued to a metal decorative assembly. The decorative assembly is a press-fit onto the steering wheel aluminum. Use a screwdriver to separate the decorative assembly from the steering wheel aluminum. The end of the steering shaft and the nut should now be visible.
Almost remove the nut securing the steering wheel to the steering shaft. Leave the nut on a thread or two so the shaft is flush with the top of the nut.
Select a rawhide or other type of hammer that will not damage the metal of the steering shaft.
With one hand, pull the steering wheel firmly toward you.
With the other hand, hammer on top of the nut and shaft with serious force.
The steering wheel should "rapidly" slip up to the nut.
Remove the nut and the steering wheel should lift off.
NOW you can remove your safety equipment.  :-)

Eric



 "Misfortune tests the sincerity of friends." - Aesop (c.620-560 BC)



----- Original Message ----
From: Roy Babiuk <rababiuk at telusplanet.net>
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Sent: Sat, December 26, 2009 9:50:12 AM
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Removal of...

#1: For those with simulated wood steering wheels with large round viking logo;
How do you remove the boss, and then the wheel itself.
Does the wheel come of the splines easily or is a puller needed?

#2: For those who have redone their interior floorpans, what did you use to remove the old carpet adhesive from sills etc?
Can this be done without stripping the underlaying paint?

Thanks for any assistance.

Roy

_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here are the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/



      __________________________________________________________________
Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr! 

http://www.flickr.com/gift/


From vmitps at netspace.net.au  Sun Dec 27 15:04:13 2009
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (vmitps at netspace.net.au)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 07:04:13 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Removal of...
In-Reply-To: <782939.91462.qm@web34306.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <0DD3E4DA-C0C3-419A-96E0-0CA6708BD912@telusplanet.net>
	<782939.91462.qm@web34306.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1261944253.4b37bdbd5d77f@webmail.netspace.net.au>

Or use a couple of bolts with a puller...

> Put on your hard hat and face shield in case of error.
> The logo is encased in plastic and glued to a metal decorative assembly. The
> decorative assembly is a press-fit onto the steering wheel aluminum. Use a
> screwdriver to separate the decorative assembly from the steering wheel
> aluminum. The end of the steering shaft and the nut should now be visible.
> Almost remove the nut securing the steering wheel to the steering shaft.
> Leave the nut on a thread or two so the shaft is flush with the top of the
> nut.
> Select a rawhide or other type of hammer that will not damage the metal of
> the steering shaft.
> With one hand, pull the steering wheel firmly toward you.
> With the other hand, hammer on top of the nut and shaft with serious force.
> The steering wheel should "rapidly" slip up to the nut.
> Remove the nut and the steering wheel should lift off.
> NOW you can remove your safety equipment.  :-)
> 
> Eric
> 
> 
> 
>  "Misfortune tests the sincerity of friends." - Aesop (c.620-560 BC)
> 
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Roy Babiuk <rababiuk at telusplanet.net>
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Sent: Sat, December 26, 2009 9:50:12 AM
> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Removal of...
> 
> #1: For those with simulated wood steering wheels with large round viking
> logo;
> How do you remove the boss, and then the wheel itself.
> Does the wheel come of the splines easily or is a puller needed?
> 
> #2: For those who have redone their interior floorpans, what did you use to
> remove the old carpet adhesive from sills etc?
> Can this be done without stripping the underlaying paint?
> 
> Thanks for any assistance.
> 
> Roy
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here are the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
> 
> 
>       __________________________________________________________________
> Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr!
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/gift/
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here are the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 





------------------------------------------------------------
This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au



From markcoorparoo at aol.com  Mon Dec 28 00:57:29 2009
From: markcoorparoo at aol.com (markcoorparoo at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 00:57:29 EST
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3.5 litre V8 P4
Message-ID: <a7e3.3c1f46b8.3869a2c9@aol.com>



   Hi All,
              Merry Xmas too. Very Tropical in Brisbane, too wet to mow the 
grass so I am catching up on RoverNet.

   I looked at the South Oz Concessional Reg stuff that Dave linked to but 
all the time I was thinking that Den's mate was probably trying to get full 
Rego for the P4b.

   The way it used to be in Queensland ( and hopefully much the same now) 
is you engaged an Authorised Officer before commencing modifications and came 
up with a set plan for the finished vehicle. Some mods that were unusual or 
previously unseen may require a Consulting Engineer to be engaged and 
drawings to be done for submission to Queensland Transport.

   When all was approved and the vehicle inspected in its modified state, 
it was issued with a Modification Plate that is attached like the original 
compliance plate.

   Now the "Engine Substitution" code was LA 1. In my last Code of Practise 
folder (which is now approx 20 years old), certain swaps were listed as 
"Acceptable Non Equivalent Engines".  Notable is Rover V8 into MGB with not 
much else to be done and  Iron 351 Cleveland's  into Rangies.  I also remember 
seeing Hilux Utes (originally 2 Ltr) getting around with 253 cube Holden V8s 
, fully approved after some additional work was done.

  Seems to me a P4b is achievable in Queensland. The code had a lot of 
stuff relating to emissions ( even back then) but a P4 pre-dates ADR 27a and the 
P6b is just before ADR 27a (although some may have crossed over), so a 
Rover V8 of alledgedly "Early" origins into a P4 Chassis in Queensland would 
comply without any extra plumbing.

   So thats my bit. I think the details of Scotts P4b should be a big Help 
in getting Dens mate Registered.  For further assistance, find the local 
blokes wherever you are  in the world who have done the Rover V8 into early MGB 
conversion. They are probably the blokes who can give advice on getting the 
P4b registered in their locality. In my locality there is a bloke who got 
an MGC registered with a Hot 4.6. It is a very High Spec car. Happy New Year.

    Regards All,
                       MWJ.   
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From den at aachenkennels.com  Tue Dec 29 17:42:54 2009
From: den at aachenkennels.com (Dennis Gallacher)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 07:42:54 +0900
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3.5 litre V8 P4
References: <a7e3.3c1f46b8.3869a2c9@aol.com>
Message-ID: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD16081A59@Server.adoptsec.local>

Hi Mark, Thanks for your reply and  good advice. I like idea about
getting in touch with the MG bods. There are also one or two motor
business doing the TR7 to a 8 swap so will get in touch with them. 

 

I've heard that the State Governments down here in Oz are bringing in
some sort of national standards with regards to the licensing of
vehicles to bring all of the states in line with each other. I hope the
changes are for the better!!

Den.

 

From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
On Behalf Of markcoorparoo at aol.com
Sent: Monday, 28 December 2009 1:57 PM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3.5 litre V8 P4

 



   Hi All,
              Merry Xmas too. Very Tropical in Brisbane, too wet to mow
the grass so I am catching up on RoverNet.

   I looked at the South Oz Concessional Reg stuff that Dave linked to
but all the time I was thinking that Den's mate was probably trying to
get full Rego for the P4b.

   The way it used to be in Queensland ( and hopefully much the same
now) is you engaged an Authorised Officer before commencing
modifications and came up with a set plan for the finished vehicle. Some
mods that were unusual or previously unseen may require a Consulting
Engineer to be engaged and drawings to be done for submission to
Queensland Transport.

   When all was approved and the vehicle inspected in its modified
state, it was issued with a Modification Plate that is attached like the
original compliance plate.

   Now the "Engine Substitution" code was LA 1. In my last Code of
Practise folder (which is now approx 20 years old), certain swaps were
listed as "Acceptable Non Equivalent Engines".  Notable is Rover V8 into
MGB with not much else to be done and  Iron 351 Cleveland's  into
Rangies.  I also remember seeing Hilux Utes (originally 2 Ltr) getting
around with 253 cube Holden V8s , fully approved after some additional
work was done.

  Seems to me a P4b is achievable in Queensland. The code had a lot of
stuff relating to emissions ( even back then) but a P4 pre-dates ADR 27a
and the P6b is just before ADR 27a (although some may have crossed
over), so a Rover V8 of alledgedly "Early" origins into a P4 Chassis in
Queensland would comply without any extra plumbing.

   So thats my bit. I think the details of Scotts P4b should be a big
Help in getting Dens mate Registered.  For further assistance, find the
local blokes wherever you are  in the world who have done the Rover V8
into early MGB conversion. They are probably the blokes who can give
advice on getting the P4b registered in their locality. In my locality
there is a bloke who got an MGC registered with a Hot 4.6. It is a very
High Spec car. Happy New Year.

    Regards All,
                       MWJ.   

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From den at aachenkennels.com  Tue Dec 29 18:12:32 2009
From: den at aachenkennels.com (Dennis Gallacher)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 08:12:32 +0900
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Blueing of old rover Tools
References: <a7e3.3c1f46b8.3869a2c9@aol.com>
	<73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD16081A59@Server.adoptsec.local>
Message-ID: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD16081A5A@Server.adoptsec.local>

Good morning All,

 

I have managed to find a few more tools for the P2 special tool tray.
Unfortunately both the pliers and adjustable where sized solid with
rust. After a few hours soak in a super product for us in Oz called CLR
( Calcium, lime, & Rust remover ) I've been able to get them moving
again and in the case of the adjustable , stripped down. 

 

I have given them a low pressure sand blast then finished off with a
short high pressure to peen the surface however would now like to metal
blue them or blacken them so as they look kind of original.

 

The last time I had anything to do with blueing metal was way back in
the 60s as an apprentice. As I recall you have to heat the metal and
dunk it in a solution of something or other? or boil them in the same (
or perhaps something more modern) chemical.

 

So pliers and adjustable need to be blackened or blued and the spanners
need to be...??? need help here to chaps.!!!

 

Anyone help with a few ideas or perhaps more knowledge them I have on
this subject so may have a different approach.

 

All the very best to all you Rover Lads and Lasses for the new year.

 

Den Gallacher.

 

PS This CLR is really very good stuff. I am in the process of tiling and
refurbishing the laundry for the good lady indoors. As per normal the
washing machine taps have not moved in over 10 years and seized solid.
An overnight soak in this stuff and they are the same as if I had just
bought them, shiny chrome, no sign of crap anywhere, easy to turn on &
off, plus the plastic looks fantastic. Wonder what it would do to a bit
of ally such as in S.U.s?. I'll let you know soon as experiment a bit
more.

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From peterhut at activ8.net.au  Tue Dec 29 18:22:34 2009
From: peterhut at activ8.net.au (Peter Huttemeier)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 10:22:34 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3.5 litre V8 P4
In-Reply-To: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD16081A59@Server.adoptsec.local>
References: <a7e3.3c1f46b8.3869a2c9@aol.com>
	<73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD16081A59@Server.adoptsec.local>
Message-ID: <s33lj5talihm272324l8dr7vv57fg4eqkc@4ax.com>

On Wed, 30 Dec 2009 07:42:54 +0900, you wrote:


>
>I've heard that the State Governments down here in Oz are bringing in
>some sort of national standards with regards to the licensing of
>vehicles to bring all of the states in line with each other. 

As far as Club Plates are concerned in Victoria VicRoads has released
a discussion paper on changing the concession registration system for
25 year and older cars away from special use for authorised Club
events and special permits to a log book for 45 or 90 days for use as
owner sees fit.

Don't know about other states, but that is similar to Tasmanian
Special Interest plates.

Cheers,

Peter H


From jpsco44 at aol.com  Tue Dec 29 19:43:45 2009
From: jpsco44 at aol.com (jpsco44 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2009 19:43:45 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Blueing of old rover Tools
In-Reply-To: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD16081A5A@Server.adoptsec.local>
References: <a7e3.3c1f46b8.3869a2c9@aol.com><73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD16081A59@Server.adoptsec.local>
	<73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD16081A5A@Server.adoptsec.local>
Message-ID: <8CC5700470D8C50-2770-11E1C@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>


 get in touch with your local gunsmith ,  ( one that does or knows how to do refinishing )
there are several bluing techniques  ,  one is to intentionally rust the part  , ( red rust ) and then boil in water to modify the red rust into black, then fine wire wheel  , and another treatment ...
another relies on a nitrate / caustic bath .
the easiest ( but probably not the most weather resistant  ) is the cold blue by several suppliers i.e. Birchwood Casey.
that you can get at any gun store.

the heating and dipping in oil you mention works , it is normally used in small gun parts , such as screws .( the color is very dependent on temperature ) but be careful with the temperature , you  might alter the properties of the steel.

jps

 .

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Dennis Gallacher <den at aachenkennels.com>
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts. <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Tue, Dec 29, 2009 6:12 pm
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Blueing of old rover Tools



Good morningAll,
 
I have managedto find a few more tools for the P2 special tool tray. Unfortunately both thepliers and adjustable where sized solid with rust. After a few hours soak in asuper product for us in Oz called CLR ( Calcium, lime, & Rust remover ) I?vebeen able to get them moving again and in the case of the adjustable , strippeddown. 
 
I have giventhem a low pressure sand blast then finished off with a short high pressure to peenthe surface however would now like to metal blue them or blacken them so asthey look kind of original.
 
The last time Ihad anything to do with blueing metal was way back in the 60s as an apprentice.As I recall you have to heat the metal and dunk it in a solution of somethingor other? or boil them in the same ( or perhaps something more modern)chemical.
 
So pliers andadjustable need to be blackened or blued and the spanners need to be...??? needhelp here to chaps.!!!
 
Anyone helpwith a few ideas or perhaps more knowledge them I have on this subject so mayhave a different approach.
 
All the verybest to all you Rover Lads and Lasses for the new year.
 
Den Gallacher.
 
PS This CLR is reallyvery good stuff. I am in the process of tiling and refurbishing the laundry forthe good lady indoors. As per normal the washing machine taps have not moved inover 10 years and seized solid. An overnight soak in this stuff and they arethe same as if I had just bought them, shiny chrome, no sign of crap anywhere,easy to turn on & off, plus the plastic looks fantastic. Wonder what itwould do to a bit of ally such as in S.U.s?. I?ll let you know soon as experimenta bit more.

 
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here are the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/

 
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From twfaust at aol.com  Tue Dec 29 20:22:11 2009
From: twfaust at aol.com (twfaust at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2009 20:22:11 EST
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Bluing
Message-ID: <e39b.1ad787f5.386c0543@aol.com>


It has been a while since I looked for it, but there is a "cold blue"  
which works by chemical reaction. Gun stores use to carry, not sure of current  
availability.
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From p6rovers at yahoo.com  Tue Dec 29 21:10:18 2009
From: p6rovers at yahoo.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2009 18:10:18 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Blueing of old rover Tools
In-Reply-To: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD16081A5A@Server.adoptsec.local>
References: <a7e3.3c1f46b8.3869a2c9@aol.com>
	<73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD16081A59@Server.adoptsec.local>
	<73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD16081A5A@Server.adoptsec.local>
Message-ID: <481258.46229.qm@web34304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Here's a video of a product being demonstrated:
http://www.shootersolutions.com/vaningunblu.html

Eric



 "Misfortune tests the sincerity of friends." - Aesop (c.620-560 BC)




________________________________
From: Dennis Gallacher <den at aachenkennels.com>
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts. <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Tue, December 29, 2009 3:12:32 PM
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Blueing of old rover Tools

  
Good morning
All,
 
I have managed
to find a few more tools for the P2 special tool tray. Unfortunately both the
pliers and adjustable where sized solid with rust. After a few hours soak in a
super product for us in Oz called CLR ( Calcium, lime, & Rust remover ) I?ve
been able to get them moving again and in the case of the adjustable , stripped
down. 
 
I have given
them a low pressure sand blast then finished off with a short high pressure to peen
the surface however would now like to metal blue them or blacken them so as
they look kind of original.
 
The last time I
had anything to do with blueing metal was way back in the 60s as an apprentice.
As I recall you have to heat the metal and dunk it in a solution of something
or other? or boil them in the same ( or perhaps something more modern)
chemical.
 
So pliers and
adjustable need to be blackened or blued and the spanners need to be...??? need
help here to chaps.!!!
 
Anyone help
with a few ideas or perhaps more knowledge them I have on this subject so may
have a different approach.
 
All the very
best to all you Rover Lads and Lasses for the new year.
 
Den Gallacher.
 
PS This CLR is really
very good stuff. I am in the process of tiling and refurbishing the laundry for
the good lady indoors. As per normal the washing machine taps have not moved in
over 10 years and seized solid. An overnight soak in this stuff and they are
the same as if I had just bought them, shiny chrome, no sign of crap anywhere,
easy to turn on & off, plus the plastic looks fantastic. Wonder what it
would do to a bit of ally such as in S.U.s?. I?ll let you know soon as experiment
a bit more.


      __________________________________________________________________
Make your browsing faster, safer, and easier with the new Internet Explorer? 8. Optimized for Yahoo! Get it Now for Free! at http://downloads.yahoo.com/ca/internetexplorer/
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From den at aachenkennels.com  Wed Dec 30 04:56:04 2009
From: den at aachenkennels.com (Dennis Gallacher)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 18:56:04 +0900
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Blueing of old rover Tools
References: <a7e3.3c1f46b8.3869a2c9@aol.com><73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD16081A59@Server.adoptsec.local><73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD16081A5A@Server.adoptsec.local>
	<481258.46229.qm@web34304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD16081A65@Server.adoptsec.local>

Can you buy this stuff in Australia? Looks just the job..

 

From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On Behalf Of Eric Russell
Sent: Wednesday, 30 December 2009 10:10 AM
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Blueing of old rover Tools

 

Here's a video of a product being demonstrated:
http://www.shootersolutions.com/vaningunblu.html

Eric



 

"Misfortune tests the sincerity of friends." - Aesop (c.620-560 BC)

 

 

________________________________

From: Dennis Gallacher <den at aachenkennels.com>
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts. <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Tue, December 29, 2009 3:12:32 PM
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Blueing of old rover Tools




Good morning All,

 

I have managed to find a few more tools for the P2 special tool tray. Unfortunately both the pliers and adjustable where sized solid with rust. After a few hours soak in a super product for us in Oz called CLR ( Calcium, lime, & Rust remover ) I?ve been able to get them moving again and in the case of the adjustable , stripped down. 

 

I have given them a low pressure sand blast then finished off with a short high pressure to peen the surface however would now like to metal blue them or blacken them so as they look kind of original.

 

The last time I had anything to do with blueing metal was way back in the 60s as an apprentice. As I recall you have to heat the metal and dunk it in a solution of something or other? or boil them in the same ( or perhaps something more modern) chemical.

 

So pliers and adjustable need to be blackened or blued and the spanners need to be...??? need help here to chaps.!!!

 

Anyone help with a few ideas or perhaps more knowledge them I have on this subject so may have a different approach.

 

All the very best to all you Rover Lads and Lasses for the new year.

 

Den Gallacher.

 

PS This CLR is really very good stuff. I am in the process of tiling and refurbishing the laundry for the good lady indoors. As per normal the washing machine taps have not moved in over 10 years and seized solid. An overnight soak in this stuff and they are the same as if I had just bought them, shiny chrome, no sign of crap anywhere, easy to turn on & off, plus the plastic looks fantastic. Wonder what it would do to a bit of ally such as in S.U.s?. I?ll let you know soon as experiment a bit more.

 

________________________________

Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr! <http://www.flickr.com/gift/> 

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From rovejag at hotmail.com  Wed Dec 30 05:48:12 2009
From: rovejag at hotmail.com (Graeme Rover)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 21:48:12 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Range Rover
Message-ID: <BLU114-W3B807E79DA0E805E20B7BAD790@phx.gbl>


In this holiday season. and following on from, a world wide recession, it is interesting to note the number of FWD, AWD whatever vehicles,on Australian roads. 
 
Is it 40% of all new cars?
 
I cant help thinking of the Rover (BL) Board Room circa 1968...
 
Mr Chairman,
 
The Board notes the profits of the P6b and the P5B ...most agreeable..BUT ...with the greatest respect, I do not see how making a luxury road-going version of a Land Rover can be anything but a drain on our limited resources..grrr....  mumble .mumble .hear hear
 
There is no market for such a vehicle, save for the Princess Anne County horse set....such a concept will lead to ruination...the world is  not  intersted in such vehicles...its HUMBUG!
 
When will Rover receive recognition for the biggest motoring revolution of  the latter part of the 20th Century?
 
Ray 
 		 	   		  
_________________________________________________________________
Use Messenger in your Hotmail inbox Find out how
http://windowslive.ninemsn.com.au/hotmail/article/823454/web-im-for-hotmail-is-here
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From jmeisterling at hotmail.com  Wed Dec 30 08:07:29 2009
From: jmeisterling at hotmail.com (jesse meisterling)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 13:07:29 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Range Rover
In-Reply-To: <BLU114-W3B807E79DA0E805E20B7BAD790@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU114-W3B807E79DA0E805E20B7BAD790@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <COL113-W232C48D7D635A60CDBAEA7D8790@phx.gbl>


I've always wanted to use this:


Friends, Roverneters, countrymen, lend me your ears;
I come to bury Rover, not to praise him.
The evil that men do lives after them;
The good is oft interred with their bones;
So let it be with Rover. The noble Execs
Hath told you Rover was ambitious:
If it were so, it was a grievous fault,
And grievously hath Rover answer'd it.
Here, under leave of the Execs and the rest--
For the Execs are honourable men;
So are they all, all honourable men--
Come I to speak in Rover's funeral.
He was my friend, faithful and just to me...

 

The last line is unanimous.

 

Did Antony own one?

 

Yes Glen, I am still here and still with the replacement '68 TC in the barn and the original '67 covered and rotting outside.  Always a retirement project but the lotto is fickle.

I owe Rudiger a couple of VINs, will do it before end of year.  

 

Jesse

 


From: rovejag at hotmail.com
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 21:48:12 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Range Rover



In this holiday season. and following on from, a world wide recession, it is interesting to note the number of FWD, AWD whatever vehicles,on Australian roads. 
 
Is it 40% of all new cars?
 
I cant help thinking of the Rover (BL) Board Room circa 1968...
 
Mr Chairman,
 
The Board notes the profits of the P6b and the P5B ...most agreeable..BUT ...with the greatest respect, I do not see how making a luxury road-going version of a Land Rover can be anything but a drain on our limited resources..grrr....  mumble .mumble .hear hear
 
There is no market for such a vehicle, save for the Princess Anne County horse set....such a concept will lead to ruination...the world is  not  intersted in such vehicles...its HUMBUG!
 
When will Rover receive recognition for the biggest motoring revolution of  the latter part of the 20th Century?
 
Ray 



Find out how Use Messenger in your Hotmail inbox 		 	   		  
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222984/direct/01/
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From lingfield51 at btopenworld.com  Wed Dec 30 08:37:25 2009
From: lingfield51 at btopenworld.com (Partviking)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 13:37:25 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover recognition
Message-ID: <885071.66104.qm@web86002.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

"When will Rover receive recognition for the biggest motoring revolution of  the latter part of the 20th Century"


Sadly almost certainly never but the Range/Land Rover development is not the only area where due respect is not given.

Surely the greatest crime against Rover was the failure of the EU to develop and adopt the 'lean-burn' engine which, of course, Rover were at the forefront of. Instead we went down the Catalytic Convertor route (lean-burn and Cats don't mix), which of course don't work in our generally cool climate but which of course was the prefered German/French (who despite what you may read actually run the EU) option. Hats off to Maggie Thatcher (with whom I rarely agree) who quite rightly said instead of worrying about whats coming out of the tailpipe lets think about what we're putting in the tank. Result we all do 10% less mpg than might now have been realised (or more) had the 'lean-burn' engine been developed and adopted.

But then as Henry Ford said, "History is bunk"

Alan Francis (partviking)
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From rover2000nut at hotmail.com  Wed Dec 30 12:04:07 2009
From: rover2000nut at hotmail.com (Bill Robertson)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 17:04:07 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] fotos. 15/12
Message-ID: <BAY119-W26456D2E3FFB26FD4ABBCBDE790@phx.gbl>


12:04:18 PM
Cuidado com essas pessoas falsas.
Salvei essas fotos pra voc? ver
Olha s? o que aconte?eu...

 anexo. 
219,5Kb Baixar 

 		 	   		  
_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live: Friends get your Flickr, Yelp, and Digg updates when they e-mail you.
http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9691817
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From rover2000nut at hotmail.com  Wed Dec 30 12:05:54 2009
From: rover2000nut at hotmail.com (Bill Robertson)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 17:05:54 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] fotos. 15/12
Message-ID: <BAY119-W32B0B79E0D8B3D31D92CC1DE790@phx.gbl>


12:06:05 PM
Cuidado com essas pessoas falsas.
Salvei essas fotos pra voc? ver
Olha s? o que aconte?eu...

 anexo. 
219,5Kb Baixar 

 		 	   		  
_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live: Keep your friends up to date with what you do online.
http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9691815
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From p6rovers at yahoo.com  Wed Dec 30 14:00:17 2009
From: p6rovers at yahoo.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 11:00:17 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] WARNING  Bill Robertson Trojan virus
Message-ID: <205756.73384.qm@web34306.mail.mud.yahoo.com>


My Kaspersky anti-virus detected two Trojan virus in an email allegedly from the computer of Bill Robertson that was sent to my home computer and to the Rovernet list.

I have put Bill's address on a moderated mode so any more posts from that address will come to my attention.

Don't open any email from Bill Robertson's computer at the moment.

I suspect that his computer has contacted a virus which goes through the host computer and sends out the virus to everyone in the host's address book. 

The Spanish words in the emails and the the Spanish words related to the attachments were also clues.

Eric
List Admin



 "Misfortune tests the sincerity of friends." - Aesop (c.620-560 BC)



      __________________________________________________________________
The new Internet Explorer? 8 - Faster, safer, easier.  Optimized for Yahoo!  Get it Now for Free! at http://downloads.yahoo.com/ca/internetexplorer/


From rababiuk at telusplanet.net  Wed Dec 30 16:35:44 2009
From: rababiuk at telusplanet.net (Roy Babiuk)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 14:35:44 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] fuse question
Message-ID: <F450DC81-A725-43FE-BB2A-194A5EE2636D@telusplanet.net>

Now that my engine is running, it's time to check out the electrics.
 From previous posts to this, and that forum across the pond, it appears
that I need 31mm fuses if I don't want the fuse box to melt.
All installed fuses were shorter than this.
I have found the correct length fuses but
I can't seem to find consensus on amperage.

Manual states:
1-2  35A
3-4  35A
5-6  35A
7-8  35A

Owners maintenance manual states:
1-2  35A
3-4  35A
5-6  2A
7-8  15A

Sticker in engine bay states:
1-2  35A
3-4  35A
5-6  2A
7-8  25A

I have installed as per maintenance manual for now.
Any thoughts or recommendations?

Roy





From veetwinrider at yahoo.com  Wed Dec 30 20:56:29 2009
From: veetwinrider at yahoo.com (roland)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 17:56:29 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] WARNING Bill Robertson Trojan virus
Message-ID: <897338.58254.qm@web180506.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Thanks Eric for the heads up.
?
roland

--- On Wed, 12/30/09, Eric Russell <p6rovers at yahoo.com> wrote:


From: Eric Russell <p6rovers at yahoo.com>
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] WARNING Bill Robertson Trojan virus
To: "INTERNATIONAL Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Date: Wednesday, December 30, 2009, 11:00 AM



My Kaspersky anti-virus detected two Trojan virus in an email allegedly from the computer of Bill Robertson that was sent to my home computer and to the Rovernet list.

I have put Bill's address on a moderated mode so any more posts from that address will come to my attention.

Don't open any email from Bill Robertson's computer at the moment.

I suspect that his computer has contacted a virus which goes through the host computer and sends out the virus to everyone in the host's address book. 

The Spanish words in the emails and the the Spanish words related to the attachments were also clues.

Eric
List Admin



"Misfortune tests the sincerity of friends." - Aesop (c.620-560 BC)



? ? ? __________________________________________________________________
The new Internet Explorer? 8 - Faster, safer, easier.? Optimized for Yahoo!? Get it Now for Free! at http://downloads.yahoo.com/ca/internetexplorer/

_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here are the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/




From p6rovers at yahoo.com  Wed Dec 30 21:33:13 2009
From: p6rovers at yahoo.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 18:33:13 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Fw: WARNING Bill Robertson Trojan virus
Message-ID: <449131.27813.qm@web34302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Further.
Turns out the words in the Trojan email from Bill's computer was in Portuguese. I used Alta Vista "Babelfish". 

Eric



 "Misfortune tests the sincerity of friends." - Aesop (c.620-560 BC)



----- Forwarded Message ----
From: roland <veetwinrider at yahoo.com>
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts. <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Wed, December 30, 2009 5:56:29 PM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] WARNING Bill Robertson Trojan virus

Thanks Eric for the heads up.
 
roland

--- On Wed, 12/30/09, Eric Russell <p6rovers at yahoo.com> wrote:


From: Eric Russell <p6rovers at yahoo.com>
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] WARNING Bill Robertson Trojan virus
To: "INTERNATIONAL Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Date: Wednesday, December 30, 2009, 11:00 AM



My Kaspersky anti-virus detected two Trojan virus in an email allegedly from the computer of Bill Robertson that was sent to my home computer and to the Rovernet list.

I have put Bill's address on a moderated mode so any more posts from that address will come to my attention.

Don't open any email from Bill Robertson's computer at the moment.

I suspect that his computer has contacted a virus which goes through the host computer and sends out the virus to everyone in the host's address book. 

The Spanish words in the emails and the the Spanish words related to the attachments were also clues.

Eric
List Admin



"Misfortune tests the sincerity of friends." - Aesop (c.620-560 BC)



      __________________________________________________________________
The new Internet Explorer? 8 - Faster, safer, easier.  Optimized for Yahoo!  Get it Now for Free! at http://downloads.yahoo.com/ca/internetexplorer/

_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here are the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/



_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here are the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/



      __________________________________________________________________
Yahoo! Canada Toolbar: Search from anywhere on the web, and bookmark your favourite sites. Download it now
http://ca.toolbar.yahoo.com.


From peterhut at activ8.net.au  Thu Dec 31 04:32:20 2009
From: peterhut at activ8.net.au (Peter Huttemeier)
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2009 20:32:20 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Fw: WARNING Bill Robertson Trojan
	virus
In-Reply-To: <449131.27813.qm@web34302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <449131.27813.qm@web34302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <3proj5p38ddaqh01nt5g6t4a3l637nult6@4ax.com>

On Wed, 30 Dec 2009 18:33:13 -0800 (PST), you wrote:


I got two too.

Strangely, my NS security essentials only ided it as spam not as a
virus.

Cheers,

Peter H


From dmesmg at juno.com  Thu Dec 31 07:49:57 2009
From: dmesmg at juno.com (dmesmg at juno.com)
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2009 07:49:57 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] fuse question
Message-ID: <20091231.074957.5440.1.dmesmg@juno.com>

Roy,
It appears that of your three reference sources, the owner's manual and
the sticker in the engine bay agree with each other, while your first
source may be a typo.  It is safer to use the smaller amp fuse (i.e. go
the safe route and use the smallest as quoted by your sources).  Do you
have a wiring diagram for the car where you can verify that only
small-load items are on that 5-6 circuit?  That would help confirm the
answer as well.

Happy New Year to all.  (I supposse this is a bit late already for our
members in Australia/NZ!).
Dan S  
____________________________________________________________
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From p6rovers at yahoo.com  Thu Dec 31 12:21:36 2009
From: p6rovers at yahoo.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2009 09:21:36 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Fw: Fw: WARNING Bill Robertson Trojan
	virus
In-Reply-To: <449131.27813.qm@web34302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <449131.27813.qm@web34302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <790833.75912.qm@web34302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Peter,
The message arrived as it seemed to be a message from Bill.
I clicked on a graphic to look at it and my Kaspersky anti-virus (in effect) "No, you're not....... that is a ????? Trojan Virus."

I repeated the same action with the other attachment with the same effect.

That's when I deduced that BILL''S COMPUTER had the virus and I should protect the list and myself.

I don't know Bill's phone number otherwise I'd call (bit like Melbourne to Perth calling).

Eric



 "Misfortune tests the sincerity of friends." - Aesop (c.620-560 BC)



----- Forwarded Message ----
From: Peter Huttemeier <peterhut at activ8.net.au>
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts. <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Thu, December 31, 2009 1:32:20 AM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Fw: WARNING Bill Robertson Trojan virus

On Wed, 30 Dec 2009 18:33:13 -0800 (PST), you wrote:


I got two too.

Strangely, my NS security essentials only ided it as spam not as a
virus.

Cheers,

Peter H

_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here are the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/



      __________________________________________________________________
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From p6rovers at yahoo.com  Thu Dec 31 19:21:50 2009
From: p6rovers at yahoo.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2009 16:21:50 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Fees DOWN in 2010
Message-ID: <661805.87039.qm@web34305.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I just received my copy of the Rover Car Club of Canada magazine (another excellent job, Vern!).

In the Fall meeting in October, the Treasurer, Peter Heaster, noted that the RCCC was in a good position financially and he recommended a *decrease* in the RCCC membership dues for 2010. Since that doesn't usually happen in current economic times, I thought I would report it! it's NEWS and it's GOOD NEWS!

We have increased Parts sales (Peter is also Parts Manager) thanks to Ruth (All British Cars) and her business and referrals.  So,........ good fiscal management, positive networking, a reasonable market (for Rover car parts), and the RCCC is in good shape.  If you'd like to join, check out our website:  <www.roverclub.ca>.

Other Clubs: feel free to plug your Club.  It's Christmas and New Year, after all  :-)

Eric




 "Misfortune tests the sincerity of friends." - Aesop (c.620-560 BC)



      __________________________________________________________________
Yahoo! Canada Toolbar: Search from anywhere on the web, and bookmark your favourite sites. Download it now
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From vmitps at netspace.net.au  Thu Dec 31 20:03:27 2009
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (vmitps at netspace.net.au)
Date: Fri,  1 Jan 2010 12:03:27 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Fees DOWN in 2010
In-Reply-To: <661805.87039.qm@web34305.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <661805.87039.qm@web34305.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1262307807.4b3d49df410b0@webmail.netspace.net.au>

gasp...
erk...
heart attack...

News tonight:
"It appears the RCCC effectively wiped out its membership because noone could
believe it was lowering fees."


> I just received my copy of the Rover Car Club of Canada magazine (another
> excellent job, Vern!).
> 
> In the Fall meeting in October, the Treasurer, Peter Heaster, noted that the
> RCCC was in a good position financially and he recommended a *decrease* in
> the RCCC membership dues for 2010. Since that doesn't usually happen in
> current economic times, I thought I would report it! it's NEWS and it's GOOD
> NEWS!
> 
> We have increased Parts sales (Peter is also Parts Manager) thanks to Ruth
> (All British Cars) and her business and referrals.  So,........ good fiscal
> management, positive networking, a reasonable market (for Rover car parts),
> and the RCCC is in good shape.  If you'd like to join, check out our website:
>  <www.roverclub.ca>.
> 
> Other Clubs: feel free to plug your Club.  It's Christmas and New Year, after
> all  :-)
> 
> Eric
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  "Misfortune tests the sincerity of friends." - Aesop (c.620-560 BC)
> 
> 
> 
>       __________________________________________________________________
> Yahoo! Canada Toolbar: Search from anywhere on the web, and bookmark your
> favourite sites. Download it now
> http://ca.toolbar.yahoo.com.
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here are the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 





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