>
From gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com Fri Oct 1 04:44:07 2010
From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com (gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com)
Date: Fri, 1 Oct 2010 11:44:07 +0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] RADIATOR VESSEL - TRIUMPH 2000/2500 RADIATOR OVERFLOW
BOTTLE & BRACKET
Message-ID: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95963EBB0F@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
<<eBayISAPI.url>>
Il messaggio ? pronto per l'invio con i seguenti file o collegamenti allegati:
Collegamento a: http://cgi.ebay.it/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220676492954&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:it
TRIUMPH 2000/2500 RADIATOR OVERFLOW BOTTLE & BRACKET
I was asked by a friend, we spoke about.
I put a similar vessel in the engin bay, in front of the passenger's seat ( LHD car) tyo prevent overheating, and it worked very well.
Very good and cheap solution.
Best regards, GR.
Nota: per proteggere il computer dai virus, le applicazioni di posta elettronica impediscono l'invio o la ricezione di alcuni tipi di allegati. Per determinare la modalit? di gestione degli allegati, controllare le impostazioni di protezione della posta elettronica.
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From den at aachenkennels.com Fri Oct 1 20:32:40 2010
From: den at aachenkennels.com (Dennis Gallacher)
Date: Sat, 2 Oct 2010 09:32:40 +0800
Subject: [Rovernet ] dengal2 thought you might like this item on eBay
Message-ID: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160DAC43@Server.adoptsec.local>
Hi All,
Thought you would like to know about these steering wheel covers. I
bought mine a few months back to fit to my Riley. Fitted it to the wheel
just now and I'm very impressed with the result. Nothing like getting
the original rebuilt (which If you need doing get in touch as I know the
right chap who does a superb better than factory job at a very
reasonably price) however once done these leather covers are a great way
to protect it.
Although this guy is into his Rovers ( wise man) he does them for any
make or size wheel. He is doing it a bit tough at the moment so needs
our help. Christmas is coming so perhaps a hint or two in the right
direct could see Santa dropping one of these in your fireplace or a
mates.
Not the cheapest out there but quality never is..... as I fitted one I
can vouch for that.
Den Gallacher
eBay<http://q.ebaystatic.com/aw/pics/au/logos/ebay_95x39.gif>
<http://q.ebaystatic.com/aw/pics/au/globalAssets/ltCurve.gif>
An eBay member wants to show you this item
<http://p.ebaystatic.com/aw/pics/au/globalAssets/rtCurve.gif>
Hi, I saw this item on eBay and thought you might be interested.
<http://q.ebaystatic.com/aw/pics/au/s.gif>
LEATHER STEERING WHEEL COVERS - ROVER P2 P3 P4 P5 P6
<http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11030.m43.l1123/7?euid=b17fe7464e9045ba9
6a10754499c111d&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.co.uk%2Fws%2FeBayISAPI.dll%3FV
iewItem%26item%3D260668813205%26ssPageName%3DADME%3AB%3AEF%3AGB%3A1123>
LEATHER STEERING WHEEL COVERS - ROVER P2 P3 P4 P5 P6
<http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11030.m43.l1123/7?euid=b17fe7464e9045ba9
6a10754499c111d&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.co.uk%2Fws%2FeBayISAPI.dll%3FV
iewItem%26item%3D260668813205%26ssPageName%3DADME%3AB%3AEF%3AGB%3A1123>
Buy It Now price:
GBP 39.95 Buy It Now<http://q.ebaystatic.com/aw/pics/au/bin_15x54.gif>
End time:
25-Oct-10 04:36:23 AEDST
Add to watch list
<http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11030.m43.l1153/7?euid=b17fe7464e9045ba9
6a10754499c111d&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi1.ebay.co.uk%2Fws%2FeBayISAPI.dll%3F
MakeTrack%26item%3D260668813205%26ssPageName%3DADME%3AB%3AEF%3AAU%3A1153
> | See similar items
<http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11030.m43.l1114/7?euid=b17fe7464e9045ba9
6a10754499c111d&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fsearch.ebay.co.uk%2FLEATHER-STEERING-WH
EEL-COVERS-ROVER-P2-P3-P4-P5-P6_W0QQsacatZ9903%3FssPageName%3DADME%3AB%3
AEF%3AAU%3A1114>
Check out this item
<http://q.ebaystatic.com/aw/pics/au/s.gif>
<http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11030.m44.l1120/7?euid=b17fe7464e9045ba9
6a10754499c111d&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.co.uk%2Fws%2FeBayISAPI.dll%3FV
iewItem%26%26item%3D260668813205%26ssPageName%3DADME%3AB%3AEF%3AAU%3A112
0>
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From icwasabi at bigpond.com Sun Oct 3 16:25:00 2010
From: icwasabi at bigpond.com (SARAH ANNE ANTILL)
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2010 08:25:00 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet ] Wanted P6 3500S
In-Reply-To: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160DABA2@Server.adoptsec.local>
References: <11FF4AEEA9614D7D887632F39321BD94@richc2upoimqhi>,
<BAY145-w11CFD40F384F09944AB38295650@phx.gbl>,
<6991C8E71B3A43218CEAADC0068AD10E@richc2upoimqhi><BAY145-w36C3DAD7EB0BDF5754C6BB95650@phx.gbl><73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160DAB87@Server.adoptsec.local><7i91a6phf24amv116hl4r1f86dbjok400a@4ax.com>
<73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160DABA2@Server.adoptsec.local>
Message-ID: <EE6614DDEDF04568869AF1F572CB3FF8@joshuaPC>
have a give away its in newcastle nsw started to rebuild but became apparent
i didnt have the skills so bought one already rebuilt lazy but thats the way
it gose it runs and drives not well but it dose drive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis Gallacher" <den at aachenkennels.com>
To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, September 28, 2010 10:03 AM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Wanted P6 3500S
> Thanks Peter,
> I'll be seeing Dennis tomorrow we'll have a search on the net then.
> Noticed a nice P3 for sale which I'll pass on to one of the club members
> over here.
> Den. Gallacher
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
> On Behalf Of Peter Huttemeier
> Sent: Monday, 27 September 2010 10:15 PM
> To: Rovernet
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Wanted P6 3500S
>
> On Mon, 27 Sep 2010 17:28:23 +0800, you wrote:
>
>
>>in the South West of West Australia. Although I wrote in to the Rover
>>Australia group asking if anyone in Oz knows of a car for sale it's for
>>Dennis down South and not Dennis in Perth or UK.....
>
> Dennis,
>
> There are cars currently on our Web site, few P5s and P6s among
> others, but all in the East, except one P5 Coupe from Darwin.
>
> http://www.rovercarclubaust.asn.au/carads.htm
>
> Cheers,
>
> Peter H
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From den at aachenkennels.com Mon Oct 4 05:09:59 2010
From: den at aachenkennels.com (Dennis Gallacher)
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2010 18:09:59 +0800
Subject: [Rovernet ] Mike Evans
References: <11FF4AEEA9614D7D887632F39321BD94@richc2upoimqhi>,
<BAY145-w11CFD40F384F09944AB38295650@phx.gbl>,
<6991C8E71B3A43218CEAADC0068AD10E@richc2upoimqhi><BAY145-w36C3DAD7EB0BDF5754C6BB95650@phx.gbl><73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160DAB87@Server.adoptsec.local><7i91a6phf24amv116hl4r1f86dbjok400a@4ax.com><73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160DABA2@Server.adoptsec.local>
<EE6614DDEDF04568869AF1F572CB3FF8@joshuaPC>
Message-ID: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160DAC99@Server.adoptsec.local>
Hi All,
Mike Evens of Viking spare UK is off to Canada for holiday and would
like to catch up with Rover folks over there. I just spoke with him and
know that he will be in BC not sure where else. If you would like a
visit from one of the UK foremost Rover experts then please email Mike
p2roverman at tiscali.co.uk or phone 001144-113-287-6196
BTW I have also asked him to join this list as his knowledge and advice
would be an asset to anyone with pre and post WWII Rovers.
Den Gallacher
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page.
Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page.
Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
sure to scroll down the whole page.
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From p6rovers at yahoo.com Mon Oct 4 08:56:03 2010
From: p6rovers at yahoo.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2010 06:56:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet ] Mike Evans
In-Reply-To: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160DAC99@Server.adoptsec.local>
References: <11FF4AEEA9614D7D887632F39321BD94@richc2upoimqhi>,
<BAY145-w11CFD40F384F09944AB38295650@phx.gbl>,
<6991C8E71B3A43218CEAADC0068AD10E@richc2upoimqhi><BAY145-w36C3DAD7EB0BDF5754C6BB95650@phx.gbl><73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160DAB87@Server.adoptsec.local><7i91a6phf24amv116hl4r1f86dbjok400a@4ax.com><73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160DABA2@Server.adoptsec.local>
<EE6614DDEDF04568869AF1F572CB3FF8@joshuaPC>
<73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160DAC99@Server.adoptsec.local>
Message-ID: <924793.94073.qm@web34301.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Hi,
I'm in Wales at the moment and can't offer to link people in BC.
The President of the RCCC is Malcolm Tait and he lives in Vancouver.
Malcolm is not on this list but his email address is: mbtaitATshawDOTca
Eric
"Always look on the bright side of life."... Life of Brian, 1979;
"I'm not dead yet!" ..... Monty Python and the Holy Grail, 1975
----- Original Message ----b
From: Dennis Gallacher <den at aachenkennels.com>
To: Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Mon, October 4, 2010 12:09:59 AM
Subject: [Rovernet ] Mike Evans
Hi All,
Mike Evens of Viking spare UK is off to Canada for holiday and would
like to catch up with Rover folks over there. I just spoke with him and
know that he will be in BC not sure where else. If you would like a
visit from one of the UK foremost Rover experts then please email Mike
p2roverman at tiscali.co.uk or phone 001144-113-287-6196
BTW I have also asked him to join this list as his knowledge and advice
would be an asset to anyone with pre and post WWII Rovers.
Den Gallacher
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page.
Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page.
Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
sure to scroll down the whole page.
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to
scroll down the whole page.
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From p6rovers at yahoo.com Mon Oct 4 08:56:36 2010
From: p6rovers at yahoo.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2010 06:56:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet ] Mike Evans
In-Reply-To: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160DAC99@Server.adoptsec.local>
References: <11FF4AEEA9614D7D887632F39321BD94@richc2upoimqhi>,
<BAY145-w11CFD40F384F09944AB38295650@phx.gbl>,
<6991C8E71B3A43218CEAADC0068AD10E@richc2upoimqhi><BAY145-w36C3DAD7EB0BDF5754C6BB95650@phx.gbl><73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160DAB87@Server.adoptsec.local><7i91a6phf24amv116hl4r1f86dbjok400a@4ax.com><73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160DABA2@Server.adoptsec.local>
<EE6614DDEDF04568869AF1F572CB3FF8@joshuaPC>
<73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160DAC99@Server.adoptsec.local>
Message-ID: <609504.93641.qm@web34301.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Hi,
I'm in Wales at the moment and can't offer to link people in BC.
The President of the RCCC is Malcolm Tait and he lives in Vancouver.
Malcolm is not on this list but his email address is: mbtaitATshawDOTca
Eric
"Always look on the bright side of life."... Life of Brian, 1979;
"I'm not dead yet!" ..... Monty Python and the Holy Grail, 1975
----- Original Message ----b
From: Dennis Gallacher <den at aachenkennels.com>
To: Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Mon, October 4, 2010 12:09:59 AM
Subject: [Rovernet ] Mike Evans
Hi All,
Mike Evens of Viking spare UK is off to Canada for holiday and would
like to catch up with Rover folks over there. I just spoke with him and
know that he will be in BC not sure where else. If you would like a
visit from one of the UK foremost Rover experts then please email Mike
p2roverman at tiscali.co.uk or phone 001144-113-287-6196
BTW I have also asked him to join this list as his knowledge and advice
would be an asset to anyone with pre and post WWII Rovers.
Den Gallacher
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page.
Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page.
Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
sure to scroll down the whole page.
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to
scroll down the whole page.
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From den at aachenkennels.com Mon Oct 4 17:52:48 2010
From: den at aachenkennels.com (Dennis Gallacher)
Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2010 06:52:48 +0800
Subject: [Rovernet ] FW: Mike Evans
Message-ID: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160DAC9C@Server.adoptsec.local>
On behalf of Mike Evans
Den
Can you please advise the Vancouver guys of my mobile no
0044-7879-630511
which should work while I'm in Canada. (At other times they can get me
on my
landline, correct no 0044-113-287-6196, when I'm in the UK). I get to
Vancouver on the Canadian on 18th Oct, and leave on the 22nd. I'll be
staying with friends in North Vancouver. My wife will be with me, and
we
plan to see the local sites including the Island.
Perhaps you can forward this email to them as I won't have time now to
join
the Canadian Rover group.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis Gallacher" <den at aachenkennels.com>
To: "Mike Evans" <p2roverman at tiscali.co.uk>
Sent: Monday, October 04, 2010 11:20 AM
Subject: FW: [Rovernet ] Mike Evans
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
On Behalf Of Dennis Gallacher
Sent: Monday, 4 October 2010 6:10 PM
To: Rovernet
Subject: [Rovernet ] Mike Evans
Hi All,
Mike Evens of Viking spare UK is off to Canada for holiday and would
like to catch up with Rover folks over there. I just spoke with him and
know that he will be in BC not sure where else. If you would like a
visit from one of the UK foremost Rover experts then please email Mike
p2roverman at tiscali.co.uk or phone 001144-113-287-6196
BTW I have also asked him to join this list as his knowledge and advice
would be an asset to anyone with pre and post WWII Rovers.
Den Gallacher
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page.
Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page.
Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
sure to scroll down the whole page.
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
sure to scroll down the whole page.
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
--
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We are a community of 7 million users fighting spam.
SPAMfighter has removed 9976 of my spam emails to date.
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From flynp170 at cablelynx.com Sun Oct 10 17:09:48 2010
From: flynp170 at cablelynx.com (flynp170 at cablelynx.com)
Date: Sun, 10 Oct 2010 15:09:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet ] SD 1 First Start
Message-ID: <52397.206.255.126.52.1286748588.squirrel@webmail.cablelynx.com>
First start after engine rebuild ,yesterday and first drive today.Just
took 18mths longer than I thought! Thanks for the help along the way.
Especially Kent. Nick
From sdibdin at gmail.com Sun Oct 10 18:39:23 2010
From: sdibdin at gmail.com (Steven Dibdin)
Date: Sun, 10 Oct 2010 19:39:23 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] SD 1 First Start
In-Reply-To: <52397.206.255.126.52.1286748588.squirrel@webmail.cablelynx.com>
References: <52397.206.255.126.52.1286748588.squirrel@webmail.cablelynx.com>
Message-ID: <F7C7B6DE-E306-464A-8849-FB1556046225@gmail.com>
Nick
Congratulations! Nothing more rewarding or nerve wracking than that first start up!
Regards,
Steven
Sent from my iPhone, please excuse any typing errors
On Oct 10, 2010, at 6:09 PM, flynp170 at cablelynx.com wrote:
> First start after engine rebuild ,yesterday and first drive today.Just
> took 18mths longer than I thought! Thanks for the help along the way.
> Especially Kent. Nick
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From kkinard at att.net Sun Oct 10 19:04:21 2010
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Sun, 10 Oct 2010 19:04:21 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] was firt start, now I've got a problem
In-Reply-To: <52397.206.255.126.52.1286748588.squirrel@webmail.cablelynx.com>
References: <52397.206.255.126.52.1286748588.squirrel@webmail.cablelynx.com>
Message-ID: <4CB25485.9020205@att.net>
Hi Nick,
Congratulations! You have been meticulous and thorough and now you can
reap the rewards.
I, on the other hand, have a problem. Number eight cylinder has a miss
and is sooting up the plug. Compression is the same as other cylinders
which have nice light brown color on the plugs. I may have overreved the
engine passing a new Camero the other day, so I was thinking burned
valve or bent pushrod. Even compression says valve isn't burned. Pulled
the rocker cover and pushrods appear OK, though I could pull the rocker
shaft to be sure.
What have I missed?
I hate to pull the head but I'm stumped. Worse yet, the car is at the
house and all my special tools are at the shop.
Roverheadscratchingly,
Kent K.
flynp170 at cablelynx.com wrote:
> First start after engine rebuild ,yesterday and first drive today.Just
> took 18mths longer than I thought! Thanks for the help along the way.
> Especially Kent. Nick
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
From danenberg123 at yahoo.com Sun Oct 10 19:17:10 2010
From: danenberg123 at yahoo.com (Bo Danenberger)
Date: Sun, 10 Oct 2010 17:17:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet ] was firt start, now I've got a problem
In-Reply-To: <4CB25485.9020205@att.net>
Message-ID: <506978.91980.qm@web33507.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
....Hey, try switching plugs around and see if it stays with #8 or travels with the plug.....Okay??? Bo Danenberger, Danvers, Illinois
--- On Sun, 10/10/10, Kent Kinard <kkinard at att.net> wrote:
From: Kent Kinard <kkinard at att.net>
Subject: [Rovernet ] was firt start, now I've got a problem
To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Date: Sunday, October 10, 2010, 7:04 PM
Hi Nick,
Congratulations! You have been meticulous and thorough and now you can reap the rewards.
I, on the other hand, have a problem. Number eight cylinder has a miss and is sooting up the plug. Compression is the same as other cylinders which have nice light brown color on the plugs. I may have overreved the engine passing a new Camero the other day, so I was thinking burned valve or bent pushrod. Even compression says valve isn't burned. Pulled the rocker cover and pushrods appear OK, though I could pull the rocker shaft to be sure.
What have I missed?
I hate to pull the head but I'm stumped. Worse yet, the car is at the house and all my special tools are at the shop.
Roverheadscratchingly,
Kent K.
flynp170 at cablelynx.com wrote:
> First start after engine rebuild ,yesterday and first drive today.Just
> took 18mths longer than I thought! Thanks for the help along the way.
> Especially Kent.? Nick
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>? ?
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
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From sdibdin at gmail.com Sun Oct 10 19:31:18 2010
From: sdibdin at gmail.com (Steven Dibdin)
Date: Sun, 10 Oct 2010 20:31:18 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] was firt start, now I've got a problem
In-Reply-To: <4CB25485.9020205@att.net>
References: <52397.206.255.126.52.1286748588.squirrel@webmail.cablelynx.com>
<4CB25485.9020205@att.net>
Message-ID: <921A110D-F0B5-475E-A5E9-E7A27F3C667B@gmail.com>
Hey Kent,
Sounds like your compression and aspiration are fine. I hate to state the obvious, especially to you as you're pretty much a god when it comes to the RV8. But have you checked the cap and plug wire? It sounds like a weak spark to me.
Any other thoughts out there?
Steven
Sent from my iPhone, please excuse any typing errors
On Oct 10, 2010, at 8:04 PM, Kent Kinard <kkinard at att.net> wrote:
> Hi Nick,
> Congratulations! You have been meticulous and thorough and now you can reap the rewards.
>
> I, on the other hand, have a problem. Number eight cylinder has a miss and is sooting up the plug. Compression is the same as other cylinders which have nice light brown color on the plugs. I may have overreved the engine passing a new Camero the other day, so I was thinking burned valve or bent pushrod. Even compression says valve isn't burned. Pulled the rocker cover and pushrods appear OK, though I could pull the rocker shaft to be sure.
>
> What have I missed?
>
> I hate to pull the head but I'm stumped. Worse yet, the car is at the house and all my special tools are at the shop.
>
> Roverheadscratchingly,
> Kent K.
>
> flynp170 at cablelynx.com wrote:
>> First start after engine rebuild ,yesterday and first drive today.Just
>> took 18mths longer than I thought! Thanks for the help along the way.
>> Especially Kent. Nick
>>
>>
>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>
>>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From smokeandsteam at gmail.com Sun Oct 10 19:41:29 2010
From: smokeandsteam at gmail.com (Aidrian & Susie Bridgeman-Sutton)
Date: Sun, 10 Oct 2010 17:41:29 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] was firt start, now I've got a problem
In-Reply-To: <4CB25485.9020205@att.net>
References: <52397.206.255.126.52.1286748588.squirrel@webmail.cablelynx.com>
<4CB25485.9020205@att.net>
Message-ID: <CDF6A30B-ECF0-417A-9BB9-8169B08DC9D0@gmail.com>
Kent
You have probably thought of this but check the ignition first and then worry about the cylinder...a bad plug, cap or wire might be the culprit.
Aidrian
On Oct 10, 2010, at 5:04 PM, Kent Kinard wrote:
>
>
> I, on the other hand, have a problem. Number eight cylinder has a miss and is sooting up the plug. Compression is the same as other cylinders which have nice light brown color on the plugs. I may have overreved the engine passing a new Camero the other day, so I was thinking burned valve or bent pushrod. Even compression says valve isn't burned. Pulled the rocker cover and pushrods appear OK, though I could pull the rocker shaft to be sure.
>
> What have I missed?
>
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From bsaunders at firstva.com Sun Oct 10 20:33:03 2010
From: bsaunders at firstva.com (Ben Saunders)
Date: Sun, 10 Oct 2010 21:33:03 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] was firt start, now I've got a problem
In-Reply-To: <4CB25485.9020205@att.net>
References: <52397.206.255.126.52.1286748588.squirrel@webmail.cablelynx.com>
<4CB25485.9020205@att.net>
Message-ID: <E8F4183E50AD4908B852424E63EC23E1@SD1>
I take it this is an EFI engine and if so it sounds like the injector is
stuck open. Check to see if the pressure drops off quickly after you shut
down.
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Kent Kinard
Sent: Sunday, October 10, 2010 8:04 PM
To: Rovernet
Subject: [Rovernet ] was firt start, now I've got a problem
Hi Nick,
Congratulations! You have been meticulous and thorough and now you can
reap the rewards.
I, on the other hand, have a problem. Number eight cylinder has a miss
and is sooting up the plug. Compression is the same as other cylinders
which have nice light brown color on the plugs. I may have overreved the
engine passing a new Camero the other day, so I was thinking burned
valve or bent pushrod. Even compression says valve isn't burned. Pulled
the rocker cover and pushrods appear OK, though I could pull the rocker
shaft to be sure.
What have I missed?
I hate to pull the head but I'm stumped. Worse yet, the car is at the
house and all my special tools are at the shop.
Roverheadscratchingly,
Kent K.
flynp170 at cablelynx.com wrote:
> First start after engine rebuild ,yesterday and first drive today.Just
> took 18mths longer than I thought! Thanks for the help along the way.
> Especially Kent. Nick
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
sure to scroll down the whole page.
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 9.0.862 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3188 - Release Date: 10/10/10
02:34:00
From kkinard at att.net Sun Oct 10 20:46:11 2010
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Sun, 10 Oct 2010 20:46:11 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] was firt start, now I've got a problem
In-Reply-To: <921A110D-F0B5-475E-A5E9-E7A27F3C667B@gmail.com>
References: <52397.206.255.126.52.1286748588.squirrel@webmail.cablelynx.com> <4CB25485.9020205@att.net>
<921A110D-F0B5-475E-A5E9-E7A27F3C667B@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4CB26C63.2090902@att.net>
Steven, Garrett, and Aidrian,
Thanks for the prompt responses. Part of my problem is being at the
house instead of the shop. I have new caps at the shop which I will pick
up tomorrow. Changing plug leads makes no difference, same cylinder
soots up. Cap looks new, though it has been on there for a few years. No
corrosion or pits in the contacts. It is a cheap cap and not my favorite
brand. A busted cap is usually pretty obvious and most I have seen also
show damage to the rotor. This is commonly caused by high revs and worn
distributor bushings so it was the first thing I looked at. Still a
possibility, though. It is definitely not a fuel problem since #2
cylinder plug is pretty and light brown. I am running a rather rare
400CFM Carter 9400 on an Edelbrock intake which is perfect for a 3.5.
Needless to say, the plugs are new and a drive around the block is
enough to soot #8 up. If a new cap w. brass contacts makes no
difference, the head is coming off. Long shot is still a bent exhaust
pushrod or wiped exhaust cam lobe (either would still give good
compression and cause the cylinder to load up from lack of exhaust
flow.) Just observing the rocker motion with the engine running and the
rocker cover removed did not show anything obvious.
I don't have a set of heads ready to go, so may pull a set of 4.0 heads
off a Rangie. They are a little better because of the waisted valve
stems and smaller combustion chambers.
I didn't think I'd forgotten anything, but better to hear it twice or
three times than to forget something.
I'll post the results for posterity.
Roverheadscratchingly,
Kent K.
Steven Dibdin wrote:
> Hey Kent,
>
> Sounds like your compression and aspiration are fine. I hate to state the obvious, especially to you as you're pretty much a god when it comes to the RV8. But have you checked the cap and plug wire? It sounds like a weak spark to me.
>
> Any other thoughts out there?
>
> Steven
>
> Sent from my iPhone, please excuse any typing errors
>
> On Oct 10, 2010, at 8:04 PM, Kent Kinard<kkinard at att.net> wrote:
>
>
>> Hi Nick,
>> Congratulations! You have been meticulous and thorough and now you can reap the rewards.
>>
>> I, on the other hand, have a problem. Number eight cylinder has a miss and is sooting up the plug. Compression is the same as other cylinders which have nice light brown color on the plugs. I may have overreved the engine passing a new Camero the other day, so I was thinking burned valve or bent pushrod. Even compression says valve isn't burned. Pulled the rocker cover and pushrods appear OK, though I could pull the rocker shaft to be sure.
>>
>> What have I missed?
>>
>> I hate to pull the head but I'm stumped. Worse yet, the car is at the house and all my special tools are at the shop.
>>
>> Roverheadscratchingly,
>> Kent K.
>>
>> flynp170 at cablelynx.com wrote:
>>
>>> First start after engine rebuild ,yesterday and first drive today.Just
>>> took 18mths longer than I thought! Thanks for the help along the way.
>>> Especially Kent. Nick
>>>
>>>
>>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
>>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
From james.moison at gmail.com Mon Oct 11 02:15:50 2010
From: james.moison at gmail.com (james moison)
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2010 01:15:50 -0600
Subject: [Rovernet ] was firt start, now I've got a problem
In-Reply-To: <4CB25485.9020205@att.net>
References: <52397.206.255.126.52.1286748588.squirrel@webmail.cablelynx.com>
<4CB25485.9020205@att.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTik0XQiqmFpnT4Si1__11nYKY0Cnyi8M95JpZw5f@mail.gmail.com>
Plug wire?
On Sun, Oct 10, 2010 at 6:04 PM, Kent Kinard <kkinard at att.net> wrote:
> Hi Nick,
> Congratulations! You have been meticulous and thorough and now you can reap
> the rewards.
>
> I, on the other hand, have a problem. Number eight cylinder has a miss and
> is sooting up the plug. Compression is the same as other cylinders which
> have nice light brown color on the plugs. I may have overreved the engine
> passing a new Camero the other day, so I was thinking burned valve or bent
> pushrod. Even compression says valve isn't burned. Pulled the rocker cover
> and pushrods appear OK, though I could pull the rocker shaft to be sure.
>
> What have I missed?
>
> I hate to pull the head but I'm stumped. Worse yet, the car is at the house
> and all my special tools are at the shop.
>
> Roverheadscratchingly,
> Kent K.
>
> flynp170 at cablelynx.com wrote:
>
>> First start after engine rebuild ,yesterday and first drive today.Just
>> took 18mths longer than I thought! Thanks for the help along the way.
>> Especially Kent. Nick
>>
>>
>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
>> sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
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From roger.matheson at bigpond.com Mon Oct 11 03:23:24 2010
From: roger.matheson at bigpond.com (roger matheson)
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2010 18:23:24 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet ] was firt start, now I've got a problem
References: <52397.206.255.126.52.1286748588.squirrel@webmail.cablelynx.com>
<4CB25485.9020205@att.net>
Message-ID: <002d01cb691d$930bc020$0100000a@owner1b4c6f2cf>
Hi Kent,
I lack the experience of others but I remember an occassion when I was re
building an engine and found an inlet gasket had been cut wrongly. It
partially covered the inlet of one cylinder. I fixed it but then wondered
what would have happened had I not noticed. I assumed that compression
would have been normal (measured at cranking RPM) but breathing at running
speed would have been compromised. So I wonder whether there is a
comparative breathing problem for no 8 either in the inlet or exhaust
manifolds???? Hence your suspicion about inadequate movement of vales by
bent rod cam shaft etc. I assume that a partially burnt vale that produced
normal compression would not be leaking sufficiently to soot the plug
although it may missfire irregularly. You sound confident that you have
eliiminated all electrical problems, although this seems the most obvious.
You say you have new plugs and have changed leads. Are you sure the cap the
brand of which you don't like isn't tracked. With the engine running and
the plug lead partially removed, do you get a nice spark crack from the lead
to the plug. Does the engine rpm change when you fully remove the lead
(trust you use and insulated set of pliers). Is the soot from unburnt fuel
or oil?? Broken oil ring ?? Some hopefully helpful thoughts from Oz
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kent Kinard" <kkinard at att.net>
To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2010 10:04 AM
Subject: [Rovernet ] was firt start, now I've got a problem
> Hi Nick,
> Congratulations! You have been meticulous and thorough and now you can
> reap the rewards.
>
> I, on the other hand, have a problem. Number eight cylinder has a miss and
> is sooting up the plug. Compression is the same as other cylinders which
> have nice light brown color on the plugs. I may have overreved the engine
> passing a new Camero the other day, so I was thinking burned valve or bent
> pushrod. Even compression says valve isn't burned. Pulled the rocker cover
> and pushrods appear OK, though I could pull the rocker shaft to be sure.
>
> What have I missed?
>
> I hate to pull the head but I'm stumped. Worse yet, the car is at the
> house and all my special tools are at the shop.
>
> Roverheadscratchingly,
> Kent K.
>
> flynp170 at cablelynx.com wrote:
>> First start after engine rebuild ,yesterday and first drive today.Just
>> took 18mths longer than I thought! Thanks for the help along the way.
>> Especially Kent. Nick
>>
>>
>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
>> sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>
>>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
From flynp170 at cablelynx.com Mon Oct 11 13:53:03 2010
From: flynp170 at cablelynx.com (flynp170 at cablelynx.com)
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2010 11:53:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet ] Substitute alternator
Message-ID: <17365.206.255.126.52.1286823183.squirrel@webmail.cablelynx.com>
Well SD1 starts and sounds good. But I have two original equipment ,
french built alternators that don't work. Any substitutes out there?
Thanks Nick
From bsaunders at firstva.com Mon Oct 11 14:58:13 2010
From: bsaunders at firstva.com (Ben Saunders)
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2010 15:58:13 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Substitute alternator
In-Reply-To: <17365.206.255.126.52.1286823183.squirrel@webmail.cablelynx.com>
References: <17365.206.255.126.52.1286823183.squirrel@webmail.cablelynx.com>
Message-ID: <59129B913C0B46C0BAAD561226DC8FBE@SD1>
Take the alternators to a shop that can check them out. It may be your
regulator.
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of flynp170 at cablelynx.com
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2010 2:53 PM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: [Rovernet ] Substitute alternator
Well SD1 starts and sounds good. But I have two original equipment ,
french built alternators that don't work. Any substitutes out there?
Thanks Nick
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
sure to scroll down the whole page.
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 9.0.862 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3190 - Release Date: 10/11/10
02:34:00
From flynp170 at cablelynx.com Mon Oct 11 15:11:51 2010
From: flynp170 at cablelynx.com (flynp170 at cablelynx.com)
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2010 13:11:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet ] Substitute alternator
In-Reply-To: <59129B913C0B46C0BAAD561226DC8FBE@SD1>
References: <17365.206.255.126.52.1286823183.squirrel@webmail.cablelynx.com>
<59129B913C0B46C0BAAD561226DC8FBE@SD1>
Message-ID: <55130.75.105.64.39.1286827911.squirrel@webmail.cablelynx.com>
Ben I thought the regulator was built into the alternator? I'm working on
a 1980 USA spec SD 1. The brushes look good; but the outer cover over the
brush area is covered in gummy stuff and dripping into alternator.[both
the same]
> Take the alternators to a shop that can check them out. It may be your
> regulator.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
> On
> Behalf Of flynp170 at cablelynx.com
> Sent: Monday, October 11, 2010 2:53 PM
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Substitute alternator
>
> Well SD1 starts and sounds good. But I have two original equipment ,
> french built alternators that don't work. Any substitutes out there?
> Thanks Nick
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 9.0.862 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3190 - Release Date: 10/11/10
> 02:34:00
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
From flynp170 at cablelynx.com Mon Oct 11 19:37:00 2010
From: flynp170 at cablelynx.com (flynp170 at cablelynx.com)
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2010 17:37:00 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet ] Substitute alternator
Message-ID: <17947.206.255.126.52.1286843820.squirrel@webmail.cablelynx.com>
I'm going to modify the existing bracket and use a GM or Bosch. I'll
report back on which one and try to post some pictures. Nick
From elton at rev.net Tue Oct 12 16:58:09 2010
From: elton at rev.net (Elton Wright)
Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2010 17:58:09 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Alternator
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1286902810.13597.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <17EE451CADFE498A8B8D7E7AA2179A44@SeriesIIA>
Land Rover guys have long used a Delco 10SI alternator. It mounts on very
much like the Lucas units that came on Series III LR's and they are
available from most any auto parts store. You will have to mess about with
some wires (not too bad) and change the plug to the delco type. On my LR's
it took about 1" of space applied behind the mount to line up the
alternator. Maybe sedan owners would find this a bit too much, but for
LR's, convenience of cheap replacement if needed is worth much. Cheers!
Elton
From flynp170 at cablelynx.com Tue Oct 12 18:44:47 2010
From: flynp170 at cablelynx.com (flynp170 at cablelynx.com)
Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2010 16:44:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet ] Alternator
In-Reply-To: <17EE451CADFE498A8B8D7E7AA2179A44@SeriesIIA>
References: <mailman.5.1286902810.13597.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
<17EE451CADFE498A8B8D7E7AA2179A44@SeriesIIA>
Message-ID: <55982.206.255.126.52.1286927087.squirrel@webmail.cablelynx.com>
>I'll take a look at that one, thanks Elton
Land Rover guys have long used a Delco 10SI alternator. It mounts on
> very
> much like the Lucas units that came on Series III LR's and they are
> available from most any auto parts store. You will have to mess about
> with
> some wires (not too bad) and change the plug to the delco type. On my
> LR's
> it took about 1" of space applied behind the mount to line up the
> alternator. Maybe sedan owners would find this a bit too much, but for
> LR's, convenience of cheap replacement if needed is worth much. Cheers!
> Elton
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
From gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com Wed Oct 13 02:57:57 2010
From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com (gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com)
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2010 09:57:57 +0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rover p6 continental boot stovage bracket
Message-ID: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B959643FE59@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
<<eBayISAPI.url>>
http://cgi.ebay.it/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230532162091&ssPageName=ADME:B:WNAFP:IT:1123
What is this exactly?
Best regards, GR.
Nota: per proteggere il computer dai virus, le applicazioni di posta elettronica impediscono l'invio o la ricezione di alcuni tipi di allegati. Per determinare la modalit? di gestione degli allegati, controllare le impostazioni di protezione della posta elettronica.
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From cfreeberg at juno.com Wed Oct 13 02:58:43 2010
From: cfreeberg at juno.com (cfreeberg at juno.com)
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2010 07:58:43 GMT
Subject: [Rovernet ] was firt start, now I've got a problem
Message-ID: <20101013.005843.5360.0@webmail15.vgs.untd.com>
---------- Original Message ----------
From: Steven Dibdin <sdibdin at gmail.com>
To: Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Cc: Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] was firt start, now I've got a problem
Date: Sun, 10 Oct 2010 20:31:18 -0400
Hey Kent,
Sounds like your compression and aspiration are fine. I hate to state the obvious, especially to you as you're pretty much a god when it comes to the RV8. But have you checked the cap and plug wire? It sounds like a weak spark to me.
Any other thoughts out there?
Steven
Sent from my iPhone, please excuse any typing errors
On Oct 10, 2010, at 8:04 PM, Kent Kinard <kkinard at att.net> wrote:
> Hi Nick,
> Congratulations! You have been meticulous and thorough and now you can reap the rewards.
>
> I, on the other hand, have a problem. Number eight cylinder has a miss and is sooting up the plug. Compression is the same as other cylinders which have nice light brown color on the plugs. I may have overreved the engine passing a new Camero the other day, so I was thinking burned valve or bent pushrod. Even compression says valve isn't burned. Pulled the rocker cover and pushrods appear OK, though I could pull the rocker shaft to be sure.
>
> What have I missed?
>
> I hate to pull the head but I'm stumped. Worse yet, the car is at the house and all my special tools are at the shop.
>
> Roverheadscratchingly,
> Kent K.
>
> flynp170 at cablelynx.com wrote:
>> First start after engine rebuild ,yesterday and first drive today.Just
>> took 18mths longer than I thought! Thanks for the help along the way.
>> Especially Kent. Nick
>>
>>
>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>
>>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
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To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
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From slatskars at comcast.net Wed Oct 13 07:05:12 2010
From: slatskars at comcast.net (slatskars at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2010 12:05:12 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rovernet ] was firt start, now I've got a problem
In-Reply-To: <20101013.005843.5360.0@webmail15.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <1299102935.189025.1286971512647.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
How about the spark plug it self? I know that Kent said that it was a new set, but new does not me good.
Slats
----- Original Message -----
From: cfreeberg at juno.com
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Sent: Wednesday, October 13, 2010 12:58:43 AM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] was firt start, now I've got a problem
---------- Original Message ----------
From: Steven Dibdin <sdibdin at gmail.com>
To: Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Cc: Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] was firt start, now I've got a problem
Date: Sun, 10 Oct 2010 20:31:18 -0400
Hey Kent,
Sounds like your compression and aspiration are fine. I hate to state the obvious, especially to you as you're pretty much a god when it comes to the RV8. But have you checked the cap and plug wire? It sounds like a weak spark to me.
Any other thoughts out there?
Steven
Sent from my iPhone, please excuse any typing errors
On Oct 10, 2010, at 8:04 PM, Kent Kinard <kkinard at att.net> wrote:
> Hi Nick,
> Congratulations! You have been meticulous and thorough and now you can reap the rewards.
>
> I, on the other hand, have a problem. Number eight cylinder has a miss and is sooting up the plug. Compression is the same as other cylinders which have nice light brown color on the plugs. I may have overreved the engine passing a new Camero the other day, so I was thinking burned valve or bent pushrod. Even compression says valve isn't burned. Pulled the rocker cover and pushrods appear OK, though I could pull the rocker shaft to be sure.
>
> What have I missed?
>
> I hate to pull the head but I'm stumped. Worse yet, the car is at the house and all my special tools are at the shop.
>
> Roverheadscratchingly,
> Kent K.
>
> flynp170 at cablelynx.com wrote:
>> First start after engine rebuild ,yesterday and first drive today.Just
>> took 18mths longer than I thought! Thanks for the help along the way.
>> Especially Kent. ?Nick
>>
>>
>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>
>> ?
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
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____________________________________________________________
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From kkinard at att.net Wed Oct 13 09:38:22 2010
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2010 09:38:22 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] Missing cylinder
Message-ID: <4CB5C45E.4040207@att.net>
slatskars at comcast.net wrote:
> >
> > How about the spark plug it self? I know that Kent said that it was a new set, but new does not me good.
> >
> > Slats
> >
>
Hi Slats,
How was your trip home? We very much enjoyed your visit. I do now have
a full inventory of my SU parts and will type it up shortly.
To bring everyone up to date.
Changed:
plugs (three different, one old, two new)
plug wires (three, two old, one new)
Coil (one Pertronix, one Standard)
Cap (new cheap cap, had to special order my favorite Accel cap)
Have not changed:
ignition module-Mallory Unilite-(can't see how a bad module would cause
only one cylinder to go bad)
ballast resistor-(same logic)
Inspected:
valves-none bent or burned
pushrods-all straight
lifters and cam lobe-all good showing no signs of wear
I did find one pulled head stud-helicoiled the hole and installed new
stud-but no signs of gasket leak and this stud was between #4 and $6,
not adjacent to #8. I am using Range Rover 4.0/4.6 head gaskets.
This has got to be a plug, high tension lead, or distributor (cap,
rotor, bushings, etc.) problem, yet spark seems to be OK at the lead.
I'm not seeing something that is there, so I will do all the ignition
stuff over and try to be more careful. My brain and my eyes are not what
they used to be. It's something simple that I'm not seeing. I wish I
had a scope to compare cylinders. I will observe spark plug firing on
different cylinders for comparison. Thankfully, when I set this car up,
I did it with access to engine being the foremost consideration. I can
pull a head without disturbing any of the primary wiring, throttle
linkage, or exhaust manifolds.
Cylinder fires when new plug installed but quickly soots up and starts
to miss.
Roverheadscratchingly,
Kent K.
From sdibdin at gmail.com Wed Oct 13 09:44:46 2010
From: sdibdin at gmail.com (Steven Dibdin)
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2010 10:44:46 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Missing cylinder
In-Reply-To: <4CB5C45E.4040207@att.net>
References: <4CB5C45E.4040207@att.net>
Message-ID: <03C20446-1245-4423-96DD-7B1682A5655B@gmail.com>
Hi Kent
One thought. I had a very similar problem with my 2000 a few years ago. In that case it was the bracket that held the pertronix module under the cap. The top of the bracket was just below the # 1 post of the cap an the spark was jumping to both the post and the bracket causing a very weak spark to the plug. Cue three cylinder idle and sooty plug.
Hope things are well otherwise.
Steven
Sent from my iPhone, please excuse any typing errors
On Oct 13, 2010, at 10:38 AM, Kent Kinard <kkinard at att.net> wrote:
> slatskars at comcast.net wrote:
>
>> >
>> > How about the spark plug it self? I know that Kent said that it was a new set, but new does not me good.
>> >
>> > Slats
>> >
> Hi Slats,
> How was your trip home? We very much enjoyed your visit. I do now have
> a full inventory of my SU parts and will type it up shortly.
>
> To bring everyone up to date.
> Changed:
> plugs (three different, one old, two new)
> plug wires (three, two old, one new)
> Coil (one Pertronix, one Standard)
> Cap (new cheap cap, had to special order my favorite Accel cap)
>
> Have not changed:
> ignition module-Mallory Unilite-(can't see how a bad module would cause
> only one cylinder to go bad)
> ballast resistor-(same logic)
>
> Inspected:
> valves-none bent or burned
> pushrods-all straight
> lifters and cam lobe-all good showing no signs of wear
>
> I did find one pulled head stud-helicoiled the hole and installed new
> stud-but no signs of gasket leak and this stud was between #4 and $6,
> not adjacent to #8. I am using Range Rover 4.0/4.6 head gaskets.
>
> This has got to be a plug, high tension lead, or distributor (cap,
> rotor, bushings, etc.) problem, yet spark seems to be OK at the lead.
> I'm not seeing something that is there, so I will do all the ignition
> stuff over and try to be more careful. My brain and my eyes are not what
> they used to be. It's something simple that I'm not seeing. I wish I
> had a scope to compare cylinders. I will observe spark plug firing on
> different cylinders for comparison. Thankfully, when I set this car up,
> I did it with access to engine being the foremost consideration. I can
> pull a head without disturbing any of the primary wiring, throttle
> linkage, or exhaust manifolds.
>
> Cylinder fires when new plug installed but quickly soots up and starts
> to miss.
>
> Roverheadscratchingly,
> Kent K.
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From fab at stunnedbuffalo.com Wed Oct 13 10:07:37 2010
From: fab at stunnedbuffalo.com (Franc Buxton)
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2010 16:07:37 +0100
Subject: [Rovernet ] Missing cylinder
In-Reply-To: <4CB5C45E.4040207@att.net>
References: <4CB5C45E.4040207@att.net>
Message-ID: <4CB5CB39.6060502@stunnedbuffalo.com>
On 13/10/2010 15:38, Kent Kinard wrote:
> [...]
>
> Cylinder fires when new plug installed but quickly soots up and starts
> to miss.
>
> Roverheadscratchingly,
> Kent K.
Hi Kent, long time no speak! ;>)
Thoughts for the day:
I would expect a faulty ignition to produce wet plugs not sooty
ones. Sooty suggests burning but not completely due to too much fuel/not
enough air. Wet _and_ sooty may be different however.
Is it physically possible to rotate the entire distributor one
point around and connect cylinders to the next location in sequence? That
would eliminate dizzy, cap and rotor at least, assuming the fault stayed
with #8. I would say that the already-substituted plugs and leads were a
fair experiment for eliminating same.
Sorry, I've missed the rest of the thread. Is it fuel injected?
If so, are the injectors OK? Whether it is or not, could there be an inlet
manifold obstruction? Apologies if this has aready been addressed!
Cheers,
Franc.
--
AMMWWMMA
MMWMMMMWMM
MMMMMMMWWWWMMMMMMM
W(-(+)^^(+)-)W
(| L |)
\ /WW\ / M0XKR
X\____/X
XXXXXX
XXXX Pergere, stultus. Fac ut gaudeam!
From lacpsyd6 at msn.com Wed Oct 13 10:42:09 2010
From: lacpsyd6 at msn.com (LANCE G LACERTE, LANCE G LA CERTE)
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2010 09:42:09 -0600
Subject: [Rovernet ] Electrical woes
Message-ID: <COL111-W147D401F64120C877835DF83550@phx.gbl>
I would appreciate any sage advice from Rovernetters far better versed in electrics than I.
Problem: '70 P6B----alternator rebuilt, but for years before, the battery would go flat when parked and not on a charger. When the alternator was rebuilt I was told that several capacitors (???) were bad so current was running through even when the ignition was off. Even with the alternator fixed I continued to plug in a batter tender whenever I parked the car. I rarely drive at night (lights on, radio, etc.) so have never had problems, BUT, a recent evening out resulted in the battery running down and a dead car. This happened in the past before the alternator was rebuilt.When the car is operating the ammeter shows a neutral or positive charge as though everything is working well----of course at a stop, with all lights on and turn signals, the meter is reading in the negative until the rpm's pick up again.
Any thoughts on trouble shooting/fixes. I've always had the impression that the charging system/alternator was woefully underrated for this car.
Thanks in advance for any help
Lance La Certe, Psy.D.
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From kkinard at att.net Wed Oct 13 13:14:29 2010
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2010 13:14:29 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] Electrical woes
In-Reply-To: <COL111-W147D401F64120C877835DF83550@phx.gbl>
References: <COL111-W147D401F64120C877835DF83550@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4CB5F705.4020300@att.net>
LANCE G LACERTE, LANCE G LA CERTE wrote:
> Any thoughts on trouble shooting/fixes. I've always had the impression that the charging system/alternator was woefully underrated for this car.
> Thanks in advance for any help
>
> Lance La Certe, Psy.D.
>
>
Hi Lance,
I had this problem with my '84 Rangie (Lucas alternator). I had it
rebuilt and even after the rebuild it did not put out sufficient charge.
The alternator shop, which has rebuilt many, many alternators for me,
including three French Motorolas from SD1's, gave me credit toward a
rebuilt Delco. I had no further charging problems until I rolled the
car. I know you hate to go to something that is not original, but short
of trying some other P6B alternators I can't offer much encouragement.
Back in the '70's Mr. J. installed Chrysler alternators with separate
regulator. Lucas alternator on my TR8 went out and I replaced it with Delco.
If you want to try some other P6B Lucas, I have a couple of spares...
Roverly,
Kent K.
From kkinard at att.net Wed Oct 13 14:26:02 2010
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2010 14:26:02 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] Missing cylinder
In-Reply-To: <1463314086.209679.1286994389925.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1463314086.209679.1286994389925.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4CB607CA.9040204@att.net>
slatskars at comcast.net wrote:
>
> When at your shop you mentioned installing an compressed air plumbing
> system. In my most recent issue of "Skinned Knuckles" there is an
> article with a diagram of an overhead system. I will copy it and send
> it off to you.
>
Thanks, I would like that very much.
>
> Good luck on your trouble shooting. Hope that it is only ignition.
> Stephen, may have hit upon the problem with regard to the Pertronix.
> Rotate the distributor or change back to points for a trial run.
>
>
The module is a Mallory Uni-lite, the coil was a Pertronix. I had
trouble with clearance between the Pertronix module and the trigger
wheel (chewed up the module, it was at the loose end of specs when I
installed the Pertronix last year) so I changed to Mallory about six
months ago but kept the Pertronix coil. This is a "window" type Delco
distributor with the advance weights on top. Changing back to points is
a good suggestion and I may pull the distributor and re-shim the shaft.
Too much end float was the problem with the Pertronix setup. Mallory is
more forgiving of vertical movement of the shaft but I may have damage
to Mallory module or shutter wheel that is not very visible. I did
remove the shutter wheel and examined it and examined the module in
place and cleaned the electric eye on the module though it did not
appear to be dusty. I have several other distributors to try including
several Lucas, new Unilite modules, two new complete Unilite
distributors and an HEI Delco, but most require redrilling the
distributor shaft and fitting the later distributor drive gear with
wobble joint ('76-'95). Some require wiring revisions and a different
coil.
All this seems unlikely given the problem is only with one cylinder.
Roverheadscratchingly,
Kent K.
From vmitps at netspace.net.au Wed Oct 13 15:47:55 2010
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2010 07:47:55 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet ] Missing cylinder
In-Reply-To: <4CB5C45E.4040207@att.net>
References: <4CB5C45E.4040207@att.net>
Message-ID: <59AD2C6AFE3844C983B624FC5CE9B631@Vista>
Put a colourtune in it and see if it is rich.
PVS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kent Kinard" <kkinard at att.net>
To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>;
"Slatskars" <slatskars at comcast.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2010 1:38 AM
Subject: [Rovernet ] Missing cylinder
> slatskars at comcast.net wrote:
>
>> >
>> > How about the spark plug it self? I know that Kent said that it was a
>> > new set, but new does not me good.
>> >
>> > Slats
>> >
>>
> Hi Slats,
> How was your trip home? We very much enjoyed your visit. I do now have
> a full inventory of my SU parts and will type it up shortly.
>
> To bring everyone up to date.
> Changed:
> plugs (three different, one old, two new)
> plug wires (three, two old, one new)
> Coil (one Pertronix, one Standard)
> Cap (new cheap cap, had to special order my favorite Accel cap)
>
> Have not changed:
> ignition module-Mallory Unilite-(can't see how a bad module would cause
> only one cylinder to go bad)
> ballast resistor-(same logic)
>
> Inspected:
> valves-none bent or burned
> pushrods-all straight
> lifters and cam lobe-all good showing no signs of wear
>
> I did find one pulled head stud-helicoiled the hole and installed new
> stud-but no signs of gasket leak and this stud was between #4 and $6,
> not adjacent to #8. I am using Range Rover 4.0/4.6 head gaskets.
>
> This has got to be a plug, high tension lead, or distributor (cap,
> rotor, bushings, etc.) problem, yet spark seems to be OK at the lead.
> I'm not seeing something that is there, so I will do all the ignition
> stuff over and try to be more careful. My brain and my eyes are not what
> they used to be. It's something simple that I'm not seeing. I wish I
> had a scope to compare cylinders. I will observe spark plug firing on
> different cylinders for comparison. Thankfully, when I set this car up,
> I did it with access to engine being the foremost consideration. I can
> pull a head without disturbing any of the primary wiring, throttle
> linkage, or exhaust manifolds.
>
> Cylinder fires when new plug installed but quickly soots up and starts
> to miss.
>
> Roverheadscratchingly,
> Kent K.
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From vmitps at netspace.net.au Wed Oct 13 15:52:19 2010
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2010 07:52:19 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet ] Electrical woes
In-Reply-To: <COL111-W147D401F64120C877835DF83550@phx.gbl>
References: <COL111-W147D401F64120C877835DF83550@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <E97D4E7637B1486ABBF5508E9B9313E0@Vista>
Is it a separate regulator?
What current does the ammeter swing to just after it starts?
Yes capacitors can leak, but usually not that much.
PVS
----- Original Message -----
From: "LANCE G LACERTE, LANCE G LA CERTE" <lacpsyd6 at msn.com>
To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2010 2:42 AM
Subject: [Rovernet ] Electrical woes
>
> I would appreciate any sage advice from Rovernetters far better versed in
> electrics than I.
> Problem: '70 P6B----alternator rebuilt, but for years before, the battery
> would go flat when parked and not on a charger. When the alternator was
> rebuilt I was told that several capacitors (???) were bad so current was
> running through even when the ignition was off. Even with the alternator
> fixed I continued to plug in a batter tender whenever I parked the car. I
> rarely drive at night (lights on, radio, etc.) so have never had problems,
> BUT, a recent evening out resulted in the battery running down and a dead
> car. This happened in the past before the alternator was rebuilt.When the
> car is operating the ammeter shows a neutral or positive charge as though
> everything is working well----of course at a stop, with all lights on and
> turn signals, the meter is reading in the negative until the rpm's pick up
> again.
> Any thoughts on trouble shooting/fixes. I've always had the impression
> that the charging system/alternator was woefully underrated for this car.
> Thanks in advance for any help
>
> Lance La Certe, Psy.D.
>
>
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
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> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20101013/f7726fc5/attachment.html>
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> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From kkinard at att.net Wed Oct 13 16:18:21 2010
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2010 16:18:21 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] Missing cylinder
In-Reply-To: <59AD2C6AFE3844C983B624FC5CE9B631@Vista>
References: <4CB5C45E.4040207@att.net> <59AD2C6AFE3844C983B624FC5CE9B631@Vista>
Message-ID: <4CB6221D.2080307@att.net>
Netspace wrote:
> Put a colourtune in it and see if it is rich.
>
That is very useful. I just have to buy a colortune (never needed one
before).
Kent K.
> PVS
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kent Kinard" <kkinard at att.net>
> To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts."
> <rovernet at rovernet.ca>; "Slatskars" <slatskars at comcast.net>
> Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2010 1:38 AM
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Missing cylinder
>
>
>> slatskars at comcast.net wrote:
>>
>>> >
>>> > How about the spark plug it self? I know that Kent said that it
>>> was a > new set, but new does not me good.
>>> >
>>> > Slats
>>> >
>>>
>> Hi Slats,
>> How was your trip home? We very much enjoyed your visit. I do now have
>> a full inventory of my SU parts and will type it up shortly.
>>
>> To bring everyone up to date.
>> Changed:
>> plugs (three different, one old, two new)
>> plug wires (three, two old, one new)
>> Coil (one Pertronix, one Standard)
>> Cap (new cheap cap, had to special order my favorite Accel cap)
>>
>> Have not changed:
>> ignition module-Mallory Unilite-(can't see how a bad module would cause
>> only one cylinder to go bad)
>> ballast resistor-(same logic)
>>
>> Inspected:
>> valves-none bent or burned
>> pushrods-all straight
>> lifters and cam lobe-all good showing no signs of wear
>>
>> I did find one pulled head stud-helicoiled the hole and installed new
>> stud-but no signs of gasket leak and this stud was between #4 and $6,
>> not adjacent to #8. I am using Range Rover 4.0/4.6 head gaskets.
>>
>> This has got to be a plug, high tension lead, or distributor (cap,
>> rotor, bushings, etc.) problem, yet spark seems to be OK at the lead.
>> I'm not seeing something that is there, so I will do all the ignition
>> stuff over and try to be more careful. My brain and my eyes are not what
>> they used to be. It's something simple that I'm not seeing. I wish I
>> had a scope to compare cylinders. I will observe spark plug firing on
>> different cylinders for comparison. Thankfully, when I set this car up,
>> I did it with access to engine being the foremost consideration. I can
>> pull a head without disturbing any of the primary wiring, throttle
>> linkage, or exhaust manifolds.
>>
>> Cylinder fires when new plug installed but quickly soots up and starts
>> to miss.
>>
>> Roverheadscratchingly,
>> Kent K.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page.
>> Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page.
> Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
From magnet at roverclub.org Wed Oct 13 18:52:23 2010
From: magnet at roverclub.org (Magnet)
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2010 19:52:23 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Electrical woes
In-Reply-To: <E97D4E7637B1486ABBF5508E9B9313E0@Vista>
References: <COL111-W147D401F64120C877835DF83550@phx.gbl>
<E97D4E7637B1486ABBF5508E9B9313E0@Vista>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP81C2D77CB309DC7C74355D91550@phx.gbl>
Sounds as if the charging system is OK, but the battery drains down
after the engine is shut off. I don't think there are a lot of
capacitors in a P6 -- only ones to come to mind would be for radio
interference suppression. Mine has one behind the back of the boot on
the fuel pump lead, but I think that was an aftermarket addition. What
about the alternator field relay? If this didn't open when the ignition
was shut off, the drain of the alternator field would kill the battery
pretty quickly. It lives somewhere in the centre console near the radio
speaker.
Best test would be to put a low-ish range (say 0 to 5 amps) ammeter in
series with a battery lead with everything shut off. No current should
be flowing. If some current is, try disconnecting things (such as the
alternator) until the current stops. You might be able to localise the
culprit by pulling the fuses in turn.
Cheers,
-- Bill D.
Netspace wrote:
> Is it a separate regulator?
>
> What current does the ammeter swing to just after it starts?
>
> Yes capacitors can leak, but usually not that much.
>
> PVS
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "LANCE G LACERTE, LANCE G LA CERTE"
> <lacpsyd6 at msn.com>
> To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2010 2:42 AM
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Electrical woes
>
>
>>
>> I would appreciate any sage advice from Rovernetters far better
>> versed in electrics than I.
>> Problem: '70 P6B----alternator rebuilt, but for years before, the
>> battery would go flat when parked and not on a charger. When the
>> alternator was rebuilt I was told that several capacitors (???) were
>> bad so current was running through even when the ignition was off.
>> Even with the alternator fixed I continued to plug in a batter tender
>> whenever I parked the car. I rarely drive at night (lights on,
>> radio, etc.) so have never had problems, BUT, a recent evening out
>> resulted in the battery running down and a dead car. This happened
>> in the past before the alternator was rebuilt.When the car is
>> operating the ammeter shows a neutral or positive charge as though
>> everything is working well----of course at a stop, with all lights on
>> and turn signals, the meter is reading in the negative until the
>> rpm's pick up again.
>> Any thoughts on trouble shooting/fixes. I've always had the
>> impression that the charging system/alternator was woefully
>> underrated for this car.
>> Thanks in advance for any help
>>
>> Lance La Certe, Psy.D.
>>
>>
>> -------------- next part --------------
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>> Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
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>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page.
> Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
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>
From mgconnor11 at sbcglobal.net Wed Oct 13 21:18:27 2010
From: mgconnor11 at sbcglobal.net (Michael Connor)
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2010 19:18:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet ] P4 Shocks
Message-ID: <465823.43092.qm@web83714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Does anyone know a current number for P4 shock absorber that would be available in U.S. without having to pay royal mail charges from the U.K.
Mike
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From magnet at roverclub.org Thu Oct 14 07:15:12 2010
From: magnet at roverclub.org (Magnet)
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2010 08:15:12 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] P4 Shocks
In-Reply-To: <465823.43092.qm@web83714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <465823.43092.qm@web83714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP9739DE1B5E136C8B7BE3D391560@phx.gbl>
Monroe 31069 fits the front. Just need to grind about 1/16 inch off the
end of the top stud.
Haven't found an equivalent for the rear.
Cheers,
-- Bill
===================================================
Michael Connor wrote:
> Does anyone know a current number for P4 shock absorber that would be available in U.S. without having to pay royal mail charges from the U.K.
> Mike
> -------------- next part --------------
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>
>
>
From s_manwell at alum.swarthmore.edu Thu Oct 14 07:28:32 2010
From: s_manwell at alum.swarthmore.edu (S Manwell)
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2010 08:28:32 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] P4 Shocks
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP9739DE1B5E136C8B7BE3D391560@phx.gbl>
References: <465823.43092.qm@web83714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
<BLU0-SMTP9739DE1B5E136C8B7BE3D391560@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4CB6F770.5050408@alum.swarthmore.edu>
Our 100 has (I think) Gabriel shocks fitted by a previous owner. I'll
see if I can read the numbers off them sometime, but realistically it
will be at least a week or two before I have out of a borrowed garage
again to have a look.
I have not compared them to original P4 shocks, but they seem to work.
--Steve
On 10/14/2010 8:15 AM, Magnet wrote:
> Monroe 31069 fits the front. Just need to grind about 1/16 inch off
> the end of the top stud.
>
> Haven't found an equivalent for the rear.
>
> Cheers,
>
> -- Bill
>
> ===================================================
>
> Michael Connor wrote:
>> Does anyone know a current number for P4 shock absorber that would be
>> available in U.S. without having to pay royal mail charges from the U.K.
>> Mike
>> -------------- next part --------------
>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> URL:
>> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20101013/1cf8eb74/attachment.html>
>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page.
>> Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
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>>
>>
>
>
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> Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
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>
From irishrover1 at live.com Thu Oct 14 09:41:52 2010
From: irishrover1 at live.com (Frederick Ben Rodgers)
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2010 12:41:52 -0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] P4 gear shift
In-Reply-To: <4CB6F770.5050408@alum.swarthmore.edu>
References: <465823.43092.qm@web83714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>,
<BLU0-SMTP9739DE1B5E136C8B7BE3D391560@phx.gbl>,
<4CB6F770.5050408@alum.swarthmore.edu>
Message-ID: <COL111-W3025015019381B8736298187560@phx.gbl>
Hi Folks
I have just bought a 1961 Rover P4-100, its a great car and works well but for one problem! gear shifting is terrible!!! Finding first and second gears are the worse and its so easy to slip into reverse when trying to find first. I realize I'll have to take the linkage apart this winter. What I'm wondering is this, is this a common problem? is there something in particular I should look for first. Any help advice would be appreciated
Cheers Ben (irishrover)
*************
My Books Lily & Me, and The Royal Navy & Me, are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs, HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2010 08:28:32 -0400
> From: s_manwell at alum.swarthmore.edu
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] P4 Shocks
>
> Our 100 has (I think) Gabriel shocks fitted by a previous owner. I'll
> see if I can read the numbers off them sometime, but realistically it
> will be at least a week or two before I have out of a borrowed garage
> again to have a look.
>
> I have not compared them to original P4 shocks, but they seem to work.
>
> --Steve
>
>
> On 10/14/2010 8:15 AM, Magnet wrote:
> > Monroe 31069 fits the front. Just need to grind about 1/16 inch off
> > the end of the top stud.
> >
> > Haven't found an equivalent for the rear.
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > -- Bill
> >
> > ===================================================
> >
> > Michael Connor wrote:
> >> Does anyone know a current number for P4 shock absorber that would be
> >> available in U.S. without having to pay royal mail charges from the U.K.
> >> Mike
> >> -------------- next part --------------
> >> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> >> URL:
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> >> Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> >> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page.
> > Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> >
> >
>
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From gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com Thu Oct 14 11:53:45 2010
From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com (gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com)
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2010 18:53:45 +0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rover P6 3500 V8 Auto in Blue , 70, 000 miles , 1 family,
but...
Message-ID: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B959630E67F@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
<<300478972626.url>>
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Rover-P6-3500-V8-Auto-Blue-70-000-miles-1-family-/300478972626?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item45f5f142d2
Rover P6 3500 V8 Auto in Blue , 70,000 miles , 1 family, but...
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From lacpsyd6 at msn.com Thu Oct 14 12:50:46 2010
From: lacpsyd6 at msn.com (LANCE G LACERTE, LANCE G LA CERTE)
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2010 11:50:46 -0600
Subject: [Rovernet ] Electrical woes redux
Message-ID: <COL111-W38AE890C0920429C079FFF83560@phx.gbl>
Just a quick thanks to all who provided insight into my alternator/electrical problems. I'm going to take these ideas down to the mechanic who helped me sort this stuff out in the past.
Lance La Certe, Psy.D. '70 P6B
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From gwlucas at granite.mb.ca Thu Oct 14 13:37:04 2010
From: gwlucas at granite.mb.ca (Glen Lucas)
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2010 13:37:04 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] P4 gear shift
In-Reply-To: <COL111-W3025015019381B8736298187560@phx.gbl>
References: <465823.43092.qm@web83714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>,
<BLU0-SMTP9739DE1B5E136C8B7BE3D391560@phx.gbl>,
<4CB6F770.5050408@alum.swarthmore.edu>
<COL111-W3025015019381B8736298187560@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <008901cb6bce$cc426750$64c735f0$@mb.ca>
Hi Ben,
The gear shift position is adjustable where it comes out of the floor.
Perhaps the bolts have come loose.
However, I purchased a P4 about two years ago and I am just now getting used
to the gearshift. The stick is sooo looong! Try putting a small pencil
mark on the dash as a target until you get used to the difference between
first and reverse.
Regards
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Frederick Ben Rodgers
Sent: October 14, 2010 9:42 AM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] P4 gear shift
Hi Folks
I have just bought a 1961 Rover P4-100, its a great car and works
well but for one problem! gear shifting is terrible!!! Finding first and
second gears are the worse and its so easy to slip into reverse when trying
to find first. I realize I'll have to take the linkage apart this winter.
What I'm wondering is this, is this a common problem? is there something in
particular I should look for first. Any help advice would be appreciated
Cheers Ben (irishrover)
*************
My Books Lily & Me, and The Royal Navy & Me, are now available as
E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs, HMS Ganges,
Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2010 08:28:32 -0400
> From: s_manwell at alum.swarthmore.edu
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] P4 Shocks
>
> Our 100 has (I think) Gabriel shocks fitted by a previous owner. I'll
> see if I can read the numbers off them sometime, but realistically it
> will be at least a week or two before I have out of a borrowed garage
> again to have a look.
>
> I have not compared them to original P4 shocks, but they seem to work.
>
> --Steve
>
>
> On 10/14/2010 8:15 AM, Magnet wrote:
> > Monroe 31069 fits the front. Just need to grind about 1/16 inch off
> > the end of the top stud.
> >
> > Haven't found an equivalent for the rear.
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > -- Bill
> >
> > ===================================================
> >
> > Michael Connor wrote:
> >> Does anyone know a current number for P4 shock absorber that would be
> >> available in U.S. without having to pay royal mail charges from the
U.K.
> >> Mike
> >> -------------- next part --------------
> >> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> >> URL:
> >>
<http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2010101
3/1cf8eb74/attachment.html>
> >> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page.
> >> Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> >> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page.
> > Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
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> >
> >
>
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From trowzerkoff at hotmail.com Thu Oct 14 13:46:29 2010
From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com (Richard Sharpe)
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2010 18:46:29 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet ] P4 gear shift
In-Reply-To: <COL111-W3025015019381B8736298187560@phx.gbl>
References: <465823.43092.qm@web83714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>, ,
<BLU0-SMTP9739DE1B5E136C8B7BE3D391560@phx.gbl>, ,
<4CB6F770.5050408@alum.swarthmore.edu>,
<COL111-W3025015019381B8736298187560@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BLU157-w2A04EF1A2EB2F47251716B8560@phx.gbl>
My low mileage '55 90 always baulks at going into 1st from neutral so I habitually shift the gearlever quickly down into 2nd then up into 1st. I've found difficulty in pushing the gearlever directly into 1st to be a commonly encountered factor in many 50's-'60's cars - not just P4's and the "into 2nd first" manoeuver has to be used pretty much every time. [Probably attributable to legacy gearbox design limitations to do with lack of/weak syncro on 1st coupled with in-service wear.]
Getting a P4 gearlever into reverse normally requires a distinct pressure to crank the lever over to the left to get it through a spring-loaded gate [accompanied by an audible click as the gate opens] - so it's possible that the gate-spring on your car is lost or broken. An easy job, but it will require removing the front seat[s], carpeting, gear lever assembly and the transmission tunnel cover to get access to the top of the gearbox.
> From: irishrover1 at live.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2010 12:41:52 -0200
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] P4 gear shift
>
>
> Hi Folks
> I have just bought a 1961 Rover P4-100, its a great car and works well but for one problem! gear shifting is terrible!!! Finding first and second gears are the worse and its so easy to slip into reverse when trying to find first. I realize I'll have to take the linkage apart this winter. What I'm wondering is this, is this a common problem? is there something in particular I should look for first. Any help advice would be appreciated
> Cheers Ben (irishrover)
>
> *************
> My Books Lily & Me, and The Royal Navy & Me, are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs, HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
> then
> Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
>
>
>
>
> > Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2010 08:28:32 -0400
> > From: s_manwell at alum.swarthmore.edu
> > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] P4 Shocks
> >
> > Our 100 has (I think) Gabriel shocks fitted by a previous owner. I'll
> > see if I can read the numbers off them sometime, but realistically it
> > will be at least a week or two before I have out of a borrowed garage
> > again to have a look.
> >
> > I have not compared them to original P4 shocks, but they seem to work.
> >
> > --Steve
> >
> >
> > On 10/14/2010 8:15 AM, Magnet wrote:
> > > Monroe 31069 fits the front. Just need to grind about 1/16 inch off
> > > the end of the top stud.
> > >
> > > Haven't found an equivalent for the rear.
> > >
> > > Cheers,
> > >
> > > -- Bill
> > >
> > > ===================================================
> > >
> > > Michael Connor wrote:
> > >> Does anyone know a current number for P4 shock absorber that would be
> > >> available in U.S. without having to pay royal mail charges from the U.K.
> > >> Mike
> > >> -------------- next part --------------
> > >> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > >> URL:
> > >> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20101013/1cf8eb74/attachment.html>
> > >> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page.
> > >> Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> > >> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > > To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page.
> > > Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> > > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> > >
> > >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
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From vmitps at netspace.net.au Thu Oct 14 16:13:38 2010
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 2010 08:13:38 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet ] P4 gear shift
In-Reply-To: <BLU157-w2A04EF1A2EB2F47251716B8560@phx.gbl>
References: <465823.43092.qm@web83714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>, ,
<BLU0-SMTP9739DE1B5E136C8B7BE3D391560@phx.gbl>, ,
<4CB6F770.5050408@alum.swarthmore.edu>,
<COL111-W3025015019381B8736298187560@phx.gbl>
<BLU157-w2A04EF1A2EB2F47251716B8560@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <DCCD3EFC9EF8493593C2BAD5CCAD0E69@Vista>
There is no syncro on first in a P4! Thus sometimes tricky.
PVS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Sharpe" <trowzerkoff at hotmail.com>
To: "rover net" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Friday, October 15, 2010 5:46 AM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] P4 gear shift
>
> My low mileage '55 90 always baulks at going into 1st from neutral so I
> habitually shift the gearlever quickly down into 2nd then up into 1st.
> I've found difficulty in pushing the gearlever directly into 1st to be a
> commonly encountered factor in many 50's-'60's cars - not just P4's and
> the "into 2nd first" manoeuver has to be used pretty much every time.
> [Probably attributable to legacy gearbox design limitations to do with
> lack of/weak syncro on 1st coupled with in-service wear.]
> Getting a P4 gearlever into reverse normally requires a distinct pressure
> to crank the lever over to the left to get it through a spring-loaded gate
> [accompanied by an audible click as the gate opens] - so it's possible
> that the gate-spring on your car is lost or broken. An easy job, but it
> will require removing the front seat[s], carpeting, gear lever assembly
> and the transmission tunnel cover to get access to the top of the gearbox.
>
>> From: irishrover1 at live.com
>> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2010 12:41:52 -0200
>> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] P4 gear shift
>>
>>
>> Hi Folks
>> I have just bought a 1961 Rover P4-100, its a great car and
>> works well but for one problem! gear shifting is terrible!!! Finding
>> first and second gears are the worse and its so easy to slip into reverse
>> when trying to find first. I realize I'll have to take the linkage apart
>> this winter. What I'm wondering is this, is this a common problem? is
>> there something in particular I should look for first. Any help advice
>> would be appreciated
>> Cheers Ben (irishrover)
>>
>> *************
>> My Books Lily & Me, and The Royal Navy & Me, are now available as
>> E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
>> Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs, HMS Ganges,
>> Royal Navy?
>> then
>> Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> > Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2010 08:28:32 -0400
>> > From: s_manwell at alum.swarthmore.edu
>> > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] P4 Shocks
>> >
>> > Our 100 has (I think) Gabriel shocks fitted by a previous owner.
>> > I'll
>> > see if I can read the numbers off them sometime, but realistically it
>> > will be at least a week or two before I have out of a borrowed garage
>> > again to have a look.
>> >
>> > I have not compared them to original P4 shocks, but they seem to work.
>> >
>> > --Steve
>> >
>> >
>> > On 10/14/2010 8:15 AM, Magnet wrote:
>> > > Monroe 31069 fits the front. Just need to grind about 1/16 inch off
>> > > the end of the top stud.
>> > >
>> > > Haven't found an equivalent for the rear.
>> > >
>> > > Cheers,
>> > >
>> > > -- Bill
>> > >
>> > > ===================================================
>> > >
>> > > Michael Connor wrote:
>> > >> Does anyone know a current number for P4 shock absorber that would
>> > >> be
>> > >> available in U.S. without having to pay royal mail charges from the
>> > >> U.K.
>> > >> Mike
>> > >> -------------- next part --------------
>> > >> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> > >> URL:
>> > >> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20101013/1cf8eb74/attachment.html>
>> > >> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this
>> > >> page.
>> > >> Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> > >> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>> > >>
>> > >>
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page.
>> > > Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> > > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>> > >
>> > >
>> >
>> > To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page.
>> > Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
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From s_manwell at alum.swarthmore.edu Thu Oct 14 21:30:50 2010
From: s_manwell at alum.swarthmore.edu (S Manwell)
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2010 22:30:50 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] P4 gear shift
In-Reply-To: <COL111-W3025015019381B8736298187560@phx.gbl>
References: <465823.43092.qm@web83714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>,
<BLU0-SMTP9739DE1B5E136C8B7BE3D391560@phx.gbl>,
<4CB6F770.5050408@alum.swarthmore.edu>
<COL111-W3025015019381B8736298187560@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4CB7BCDA.7060107@alum.swarthmore.edu>
Hi Ben,
You'll enjoy the 100 once you have the bugs out of it; ours is a
pleasure to drive with the smooth, flexible engine, overdrive, etc.
The bushings and pivot pins in the shift linkage can get quite worn
which will lead to a lot of play in the shift. The pins should have a
close tolerance in the bushings. If everything in the linkage is tight,
then each gear position should be easy to find.
There is supposed to be a spring "protecting" the reverse gear
position. You should have to push the gear lever to the left against
the spring before you can push the lever forward into the upper left
position to get reverse. If the bushings and pins are sloppy, then this
spring action might be less noticeable even if it is there.
--Steve
On 10/14/2010 10:41 AM, Frederick Ben Rodgers wrote:
> Hi Folks
> I have just bought a 1961 Rover P4-100, its a great car and works well but for one problem! gear shifting is terrible!!! Finding first and second gears are the worse and its so easy to slip into reverse when trying to find first. I realize I'll have to take the linkage apart this winter. What I'm wondering is this, is this a common problem? is there something in particular I should look for first. Any help advice would be appreciated
> Cheers Ben (irishrover)
>
> *************
> My Books Lily& Me, and The Royal Navy& Me, are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs, HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
> then
> Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
>
>
>
>
>> Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2010 08:28:32 -0400
>> From: s_manwell at alum.swarthmore.edu
>> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] P4 Shocks
>>
>> Our 100 has (I think) Gabriel shocks fitted by a previous owner. I'll
>> see if I can read the numbers off them sometime, but realistically it
>> will be at least a week or two before I have out of a borrowed garage
>> again to have a look.
>>
>> I have not compared them to original P4 shocks, but they seem to work.
>>
>> --Steve
>>
>>
>> On 10/14/2010 8:15 AM, Magnet wrote:
>>> Monroe 31069 fits the front. Just need to grind about 1/16 inch off
>>> the end of the top stud.
>>>
>>> Haven't found an equivalent for the rear.
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>>
>>> -- Bill
>>>
>>> ===================================================
>>>
>>> Michael Connor wrote:
>>>> Does anyone know a current number for P4 shock absorber that would be
>>>> available in U.S. without having to pay royal mail charges from the U.K.
>>>> Mike
>>>> -------------- next part --------------
>>>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>>>> URL:
>>>> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20101013/1cf8eb74/attachment.html>
>>>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page.
>>>> Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
>>>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page.
>>> Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
>>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>>
>>>
>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
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From A.Ward at latrobe.edu.au Thu Oct 14 21:40:18 2010
From: A.Ward at latrobe.edu.au (Alex Ward)
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 2010 13:40:18 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet ] P4 gear shift
In-Reply-To: <4CB7BCDA.7060107@alum.swarthmore.edu>
References: <465823.43092.qm@web83714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>,
<BLU0-SMTP9739DE1B5E136C8B7BE3D391560@phx.gbl>,
<4CB6F770.5050408@alum.swarthmore.edu>
<COL111-W3025015019381B8736298187560@phx.gbl>
<4CB7BCDA.7060107@alum.swarthmore.edu>
Message-ID: <445778E72B185D479DA2A30C7C9C7A7D0A7B30916B@EXCH2007.ltu.edu.au>
Have you lifted the floor mat and checked that the big metal curvy plate that holds the gearstick pivot is securely bolted to the floor. It is held down by multiple small bolts, but they can come loose, allowing the pivot to slop around
Alex
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On Behalf Of S Manwell
Sent: Friday, 15 October 2010 1:31 PM
To: Rovernet
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] P4 gear shift
Hi Ben,
You'll enjoy the 100 once you have the bugs out of it; ours is a
pleasure to drive with the smooth, flexible engine, overdrive, etc.
The bushings and pivot pins in the shift linkage can get quite worn
which will lead to a lot of play in the shift. The pins should have a
close tolerance in the bushings. If everything in the linkage is tight,
then each gear position should be easy to find.
There is supposed to be a spring "protecting" the reverse gear
position. You should have to push the gear lever to the left against
the spring before you can push the lever forward into the upper left
position to get reverse. If the bushings and pins are sloppy, then this
spring action might be less noticeable even if it is there.
--Steve
On 10/14/2010 10:41 AM, Frederick Ben Rodgers wrote:
> Hi Folks
> I have just bought a 1961 Rover P4-100, its a great car and works well but for one problem! gear shifting is terrible!!! Finding first and second gears are the worse and its so easy to slip into reverse when trying to find first. I realize I'll have to take the linkage apart this winter. What I'm wondering is this, is this a common problem? is there something in particular I should look for first. Any help advice would be appreciated
> Cheers Ben (irishrover)
>
> *************
> My Books Lily& Me, and The Royal Navy& Me, are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs, HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
> then
> Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
>
>
>
>
>> Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2010 08:28:32 -0400
>> From: s_manwell at alum.swarthmore.edu
>> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] P4 Shocks
>>
>> Our 100 has (I think) Gabriel shocks fitted by a previous owner. I'll
>> see if I can read the numbers off them sometime, but realistically it
>> will be at least a week or two before I have out of a borrowed garage
>> again to have a look.
>>
>> I have not compared them to original P4 shocks, but they seem to work.
>>
>> --Steve
>>
>>
>> On 10/14/2010 8:15 AM, Magnet wrote:
>>> Monroe 31069 fits the front. Just need to grind about 1/16 inch off
>>> the end of the top stud.
>>>
>>> Haven't found an equivalent for the rear.
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>>
>>> -- Bill
>>>
>>> ===================================================
>>>
>>> Michael Connor wrote:
>>>> Does anyone know a current number for P4 shock absorber that would be
>>>> available in U.S. without having to pay royal mail charges from the U.K.
>>>> Mike
>>>> -------------- next part --------------
>>>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>>>> URL:
>>>> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20101013/1cf8eb74/attachment.html>
>>>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page.
>>>> Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
>>>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page.
>>> Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
>>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>>
>>>
>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
> -------------- next part --------------
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From michael.maher at virgin.net Fri Oct 15 14:50:16 2010
From: michael.maher at virgin.net (Mike Maher)
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 2010 20:50:16 +0100
Subject: [Rovernet ] Electrical woes
References: <COL111-W147D401F64120C877835DF83550@phx.gbl><E97D4E7637B1486ABBF5508E9B9313E0@Vista>
<BLU0-SMTP81C2D77CB309DC7C74355D91550@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <019801cb6ca2$32470cd0$0201a8c0@miked77a6a71f0>
Could your battery be discharged by what we on this side of the pond call a
boot light - (a lamp in the trunk) not shutting off when the boot lid is
closed?
A local P6 owner had battery discharge symptoms that we cured by taking the
bulb out - the long term solution was to replace the switch and ensure that
it did operate when the lid closed.
Regards
Mike Maher
----- Original Message -----
From: "Magnet" <magnet at roverclub.org>
To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2010 12:52 AM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Electrical woes
> Sounds as if the charging system is OK, but the battery drains down after
> the engine is shut off. I don't think there are a lot of capacitors in a
> P6 -- only ones to come to mind would be for radio interference
> suppression. Mine has one behind the back of the boot on the fuel pump
> lead, but I think that was an aftermarket addition. What about the
> alternator field relay? If this didn't open when the ignition was shut
> off, the drain of the alternator field would kill the battery pretty
> quickly. It lives somewhere in the centre console near the radio speaker.
>
> Best test would be to put a low-ish range (say 0 to 5 amps) ammeter in
> series with a battery lead with everything shut off. No current should be
> flowing. If some current is, try disconnecting things (such as the
> alternator) until the current stops. You might be able to localise the
> culprit by pulling the fuses in turn.
>
> Cheers,
>
> -- Bill D.
>
>
> Netspace wrote:
>> Is it a separate regulator?
>>
>> What current does the ammeter swing to just after it starts?
>>
>> Yes capacitors can leak, but usually not that much.
>>
>> PVS
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "LANCE G LACERTE, LANCE G LA CERTE"
>> <lacpsyd6 at msn.com>
>> To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
>> Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2010 2:42 AM
>> Subject: [Rovernet ] Electrical woes
>>
>>
>>>
>>> I would appreciate any sage advice from Rovernetters far better versed
>>> in electrics than I.
>>> Problem: '70 P6B----alternator rebuilt, but for years before, the
>>> battery would go flat when parked and not on a charger. When the
>>> alternator was rebuilt I was told that several capacitors (???) were bad
>>> so current was running through even when the ignition was off. Even
>>> with the alternator fixed I continued to plug in a batter tender
>>> whenever I parked the car. I rarely drive at night (lights on, radio,
>>> etc.) so have never had problems, BUT, a recent evening out resulted in
>>> the battery running down and a dead car. This happened in the past
>>> before the alternator was rebuilt.When the car is operating the ammeter
>>> shows a neutral or positive charge as though everything is working
>>> well----of course at a stop, with all lights on and turn signals, the
>>> meter is reading in the negative until the rpm's pick up again.
>>> Any thoughts on trouble shooting/fixes. I've always had the impression
>>> that the charging system/alternator was woefully underrated for this
>>> car.
>>> Thanks in advance for any help
>>>
>>> Lance La Certe, Psy.D.
>>>
>>>
>>> -------------- next part --------------
>>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>>> URL:
>>> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20101013/f7726fc5/attachment.html>
>>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
>>> sure to scroll down the whole page.
>>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>
>>
>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
>> sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>
>>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
>
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> =======
> Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found.
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(Email Guard: 7.0.0.18, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.16040)
http://www.pctools.com/
=======
From ianalice at shaw.ca Fri Oct 15 15:53:13 2010
From: ianalice at shaw.ca (Alice and Ian Potts)
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 2010 13:53:13 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] Electrical woes
In-Reply-To: <019801cb6ca2$32470cd0$0201a8c0@miked77a6a71f0>
References: <COL111-W147D401F64120C877835DF83550@phx.gbl>
<E97D4E7637B1486ABBF5508E9B9313E0@Vista>
<BLU0-SMTP81C2D77CB309DC7C74355D91550@phx.gbl>
<019801cb6ca2$32470cd0$0201a8c0@miked77a6a71f0>
Message-ID: <A634EA9947DE4308923B07C9626D1CD5@IandAlicePC>
How would you do that? Climb into the trunk and have your wife close the
lid? Good riddence! Ian
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Maher" <michael.maher at virgin.net>
To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Friday, October 15, 2010 12:50 PM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Electrical woes
> Could your battery be discharged by what we on this side of the pond call
> a
> boot light - (a lamp in the trunk) not shutting off when the boot lid is
> closed?
> A local P6 owner had battery discharge symptoms that we cured by taking
> the
> bulb out - the long term solution was to replace the switch and ensure
> that
> it did operate when the lid closed.
>
> Regards
>
> Mike Maher
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Magnet" <magnet at roverclub.org>
> To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2010 12:52 AM
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Electrical woes
>
>
>> Sounds as if the charging system is OK, but the battery drains down after
>> the engine is shut off. I don't think there are a lot of capacitors in a
>> P6 -- only ones to come to mind would be for radio interference
>> suppression. Mine has one behind the back of the boot on the fuel pump
>> lead, but I think that was an aftermarket addition. What about the
>> alternator field relay? If this didn't open when the ignition was shut
>> off, the drain of the alternator field would kill the battery pretty
>> quickly. It lives somewhere in the centre console near the radio
>> speaker.
>>
>> Best test would be to put a low-ish range (say 0 to 5 amps) ammeter in
>> series with a battery lead with everything shut off. No current should
>> be
>> flowing. If some current is, try disconnecting things (such as the
>> alternator) until the current stops. You might be able to localise the
>> culprit by pulling the fuses in turn.
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> -- Bill D.
>>
>>
>> Netspace wrote:
>>> Is it a separate regulator?
>>>
>>> What current does the ammeter swing to just after it starts?
>>>
>>> Yes capacitors can leak, but usually not that much.
>>>
>>> PVS
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "LANCE G LACERTE, LANCE G LA CERTE"
>>> <lacpsyd6 at msn.com>
>>> To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
>>> Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2010 2:42 AM
>>> Subject: [Rovernet ] Electrical woes
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>> I would appreciate any sage advice from Rovernetters far better versed
>>>> in electrics than I.
>>>> Problem: '70 P6B----alternator rebuilt, but for years before, the
>>>> battery would go flat when parked and not on a charger. When the
>>>> alternator was rebuilt I was told that several capacitors (???) were
>>>> bad
>>>> so current was running through even when the ignition was off. Even
>>>> with the alternator fixed I continued to plug in a batter tender
>>>> whenever I parked the car. I rarely drive at night (lights on, radio,
>>>> etc.) so have never had problems, BUT, a recent evening out resulted in
>>>> the battery running down and a dead car. This happened in the past
>>>> before the alternator was rebuilt.When the car is operating the ammeter
>>>> shows a neutral or positive charge as though everything is working
>>>> well----of course at a stop, with all lights on and turn signals, the
>>>> meter is reading in the negative until the rpm's pick up again.
>>>> Any thoughts on trouble shooting/fixes. I've always had the impression
>>>> that the charging system/alternator was woefully underrated for this
>>>> car.
>>>> Thanks in advance for any help
>>>>
>>>> Lance La Certe, Psy.D.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> -------------- next part --------------
>>>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>>>> URL:
>>>> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20101013/f7726fc5/attachment.html>
>>>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page.
>>>> Be
>>>> sure to scroll down the whole page.
>>>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>>
>>>
>>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
>>> sure to scroll down the whole page.
>>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
>> sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> =======
>> Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found.
>> (Email Guard: 7.0.0.18, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.16040)
>> http://www.pctools.com/
>> =======
>
>
>
>
>
> =======
> Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found.
> (Email Guard: 7.0.0.18, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.16040)
> http://www.pctools.com/
> =======
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> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
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--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Version: 9.0.862 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3198 - Release Date: 10/14/10
23:34:00
From smokeandsteam at gmail.com Fri Oct 15 15:59:55 2010
From: smokeandsteam at gmail.com (Aidrian Bridgeman-Sutton)
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 2010 13:59:55 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] Electrical woes
In-Reply-To: <A634EA9947DE4308923B07C9626D1CD5@IandAlicePC>
References: <COL111-W147D401F64120C877835DF83550@phx.gbl>
<E97D4E7637B1486ABBF5508E9B9313E0@Vista>
<BLU0-SMTP81C2D77CB309DC7C74355D91550@phx.gbl>
<019801cb6ca2$32470cd0$0201a8c0@miked77a6a71f0>
<A634EA9947DE4308923B07C9626D1CD5@IandAlicePC>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinqbQChuhii=Q+305KVAh5ONtD2p7THnSiXH14s@mail.gmail.com>
Small children are very useful for this sort of thing. If you don't
have one of your own borrow one from the neighbours...
Just remeber to let them out when you have finished
On Fri, Oct 15, 2010 at 1:53 PM, Alice and Ian Potts <ianalice at shaw.ca> wrote:
> How would you do that? ?Climb into the trunk and have your wife close the
> lid? ?Good riddence! ?Ian
From nash4447 at cs.com Fri Oct 15 16:06:31 2010
From: nash4447 at cs.com (nash4447 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 2010 17:06:31 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Electrical woes
In-Reply-To: <A634EA9947DE4308923B07C9626D1CD5@IandAlicePC>
References: <COL111-W147D401F64120C877835DF83550@phx.gbl><E97D4E7637B1486ABBF5508E9B9313E0@Vista><BLU0-SMTP81C2D77CB309DC7C74355D91550@phx.gbl><019801cb6ca2$32470cd0$0201a8c0@miked77a6a71f0>
<A634EA9947DE4308923B07C9626D1CD5@IandAlicePC>
Message-ID: <8CD3AC3F9C4AB41-1F90-2500@webmail-m002.sysops.aol.com>
Using the wife in the trunk is also a good way to align the lid. Glenn
-----Original Message-----
From: Alice and Ian Potts <ianalice at shaw.ca>
To: Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Fri, Oct 15, 2010 3:53 pm
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Electrical woes
How would you do that? Climb into the trunk and have your wife close the lid? Good riddence! Ian
----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Maher" <michael.maher at virgin.net>
To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Friday, October 15, 2010 12:50 PM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Electrical woes
> Could your battery be discharged by what we on this side of the pond call > a
> boot light - (a lamp in the trunk) not shutting off when the boot lid is
> closed?
> A local P6 owner had battery discharge symptoms that we cured by taking > the
> bulb out - the long term solution was to replace the switch and ensure > that
> it did operate when the lid closed.
>
> Regards
>
> Mike Maher
>
> ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Magnet" <magnet at roverclub.org>
> To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2010 12:52 AM
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Electrical woes
>
>
>> Sounds as if the charging system is OK, but the battery drains down after
>> the engine is shut off. I don't think there are a lot of capacitors in a
>> P6 -- only ones to come to mind would be for radio interference
>> suppression. Mine has one behind the back of the boot on the fuel pump
>> lead, but I think that was an aftermarket addition. What about the
>> alternator field relay? If this didn't open when the ignition was shut
>> off, the drain of the alternator field would kill the battery pretty
>> quickly. It lives somewhere in the centre console near the radio >> speaker.
>>
>> Best test would be to put a low-ish range (say 0 to 5 amps) ammeter in
>> series with a battery lead with everything shut off. No current should >> be
>> flowing. If some current is, try disconnecting things (such as the
>> alternator) until the current stops. You might be able to localise the
>> culprit by pulling the fuses in turn.
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> -- Bill D.
>>
>>
>> Netspace wrote:
>>> Is it a separate regulator?
>>>
>>> What current does the ammeter swing to just after it starts?
>>>
>>> Yes capacitors can leak, but usually not that much.
>>>
>>> PVS
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "LANCE G LACERTE, LANCE G LA CERTE"
>>> <lacpsyd6 at msn.com>
>>> To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
>>> Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2010 2:42 AM
>>> Subject: [Rovernet ] Electrical woes
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>> I would appreciate any sage advice from Rovernetters far better versed
>>>> in electrics than I.
>>>> Problem: '70 P6B----alternator rebuilt, but for years before, the
>>>> battery would go flat when parked and not on a charger. When the
>>>> alternator was rebuilt I was told that several capacitors (???) were >>>> bad
>>>> so current was running through even when the ignition was off. Even
>>>> with the alternator fixed I continued to plug in a batter tender
>>>> whenever I parked the car. I rarely drive at night (lights on, radio,
>>>> etc.) so have never had problems, BUT, a recent evening out resulted in
>>>> the battery running down and a dead car. This happened in the past
>>>> before the alternator was rebuilt.When the car is operating the ammeter
>>>> shows a neutral or positive charge as though everything is working
>>>> well----of course at a stop, with all lights on and turn signals, the
>>>> meter is reading in the negative until the rpm's pick up again.
>>>> Any thoughts on trouble shooting/fixes. I've always had the impression
>>>> that the charging system/alternator was woefully underrated for this
>>>> car.
>>>> Thanks in advance for any help
>>>>
>>>> Lance La Certe, Psy.D.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> -------------- next part --------------
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>>>> sure to scroll down the whole page.
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>>>
>>>
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>>> sure to scroll down the whole page.
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From magnet at roverclub.org Fri Oct 15 19:47:17 2010
From: magnet at roverclub.org (Magnet)
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 2010 20:47:17 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Cyclops for sale
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP95034D9B6950989F5CA50C91580@phx.gbl>
A few weeks ago, I passed along the information that a P4 Cyclops was
for sale in Ontario (Canada). I now have a few photos of the car, you
can see them at
http://www.roverclub.org/cyclops/
The nice lady who is selling the car says:
"My husband paid $1000.00 for the car and he had most of the chrome on
the car redone to the tune of $700.00. I would like to realize some of
this but as I don't have a real idea of what it's worth, perhaps I'm
aiming too high. As I said, I can still dicker."
Her name is Diane Fulton and her e-mail is
lady.di41 at hotmail.com
I think this would be a great buy for someone wanting an easily restored
cyclops.
Cheers,
-- Bill Daddis
From slatskars at comcast.net Sun Oct 17 18:20:31 2010
From: slatskars at comcast.net (slatskars at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2010 23:20:31 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rovernet ] Electrical woes
In-Reply-To: <8CD3AC3F9C4AB41-1F90-2500@webmail-m002.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <1949679428.388727.1287357631372.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
I prefer to use my Daughter, she fits better! Also, more flexible and mechanically adept.
Slats
----- Original Message -----
From: nash4447 at cs.com
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Sent: Friday, October 15, 2010 2:06:31 PM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Electrical woes
Using the wife in the trunk is also a good way to align the lid. ? ? Glenn
-----Original Message-----
From: Alice and Ian Potts <ianalice at shaw.ca>
To: Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Fri, Oct 15, 2010 3:53 pm
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Electrical woes
How would you do that? Climb into the trunk and have your wife close the lid? Good riddence! Ian
----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Maher" <michael.maher at virgin.net>
To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Friday, October 15, 2010 12:50 PM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Electrical woes
?
> Could your battery be discharged by what we on this side of the pond call > a
> boot light - (a lamp in the trunk) not shutting off when the boot lid is
> closed?
> A local P6 owner had battery discharge symptoms that we cured by taking > the
> bulb out - the long term solution was to replace the switch and ensure > that
> it did operate when the lid closed.
>
> Regards
>
> Mike Maher
>
> ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Magnet" <magnet at roverclub.org>
> To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2010 12:52 AM
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Electrical woes
>
>
>> Sounds as if the charging system is OK, but the battery drains down after
>> the engine is shut off. I don't think there are a lot of capacitors in a
>> P6 -- only ones to come to mind would be for radio interference
>> suppression. Mine has one behind the back of the boot on the fuel pump
>> lead, but I think that was an aftermarket addition. What about the
>> alternator field relay? If this didn't open when the ignition was shut
>> off, the drain of the alternator field would kill the battery pretty
>> quickly. It lives somewhere in the centre console near the radio >> speaker.
>>
>> Best test would be to put a low-ish range (say 0 to 5 amps) ammeter in
>> series with a battery lead with everything shut off. No current should >> be
>> flowing. If some current is, try disconnecting things (such as the
>> alternator) until the current stops. You might be able to localise the
>> culprit by pulling the fuses in turn.
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> -- Bill D.
>>
>>
>> Netspace wrote:
>>> Is it a separate regulator?
>>>
>>> What current does the ammeter swing to just after it starts?
>>>
>>> Yes capacitors can leak, but usually not that much.
>>>
>>> PVS
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "LANCE G LACERTE, LANCE G LA CERTE"
>>> <lacpsyd6 at msn.com>
>>> To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
>>> Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2010 2:42 AM
>>> Subject: [Rovernet ] Electrical woes
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>> I would appreciate any sage advice from Rovernetters far better versed
>>>> in electrics than I.
>>>> Problem: '70 P6B----alternator rebuilt, but for years before, the
>>>> battery would go flat when parked and not on a charger. When the
>>>> alternator was rebuilt I was told that several capacitors (???) were >>>> bad
>>>> so current was running through even when the ignition was off. Even
>>>> with the alternator fixed I continued to plug in a batter tender
>>>> whenever I parked the car. I rarely drive at night (lights on, radio,
>>>> etc.) so have never had problems, BUT, a recent evening out resulted in
>>>> the battery running down and a dead car. This happened in the past
>>>> before the alternator was rebuilt.When the car is operating the ammeter
>>>> shows a neutral or positive charge as though everything is working
>>>> well----of course at a stop, with all lights on and turn signals, the
>>>> meter is reading in the negative until the rpm's pick up again.
>>>> Any thoughts on trouble shooting/fixes. I've always had the impression
>>>> that the charging system/alternator was woefully underrated for this
>>>> car.
>>>> Thanks in advance for any help
>>>>
>>>> Lance La Certe, Psy.D.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> -------------- next part --------------
>>>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>>>> URL:
>>>> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20101013/f7726fc5/attachment.html>
>>>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. >>>> Be
>>>> sure to scroll down the whole page.
>>>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>>
>>>
>>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
>>> sure to scroll down the whole page.
>>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
>> sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> =======
>> Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found.
>> (Email Guard: 7.0.0.18, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.16040)
>> http://www.pctools.com/
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> =======
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From gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com Mon Oct 18 04:00:52 2010
From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com (gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com)
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2010 11:00:52 +0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] R: Electrical woes
In-Reply-To: <1949679428.388727.1287357631372.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <8CD3AC3F9C4AB41-1F90-2500@webmail-m002.sysops.aol.com>
<1949679428.388727.1287357631372.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B9596468B73@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
I have no daughters, but a former wife...
-----Messaggio originale-----
Da: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] Per conto di slatskars at comcast.net
Inviato: luned? 18 ottobre 2010 1.21
A: Rovernet
Oggetto: Re: [Rovernet ] Electrical woes
I prefer to use my Daughter, she fits better! Also, more flexible and mechanically adept.
Slats
----- Original Message -----
From: nash4447 at cs.com
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Sent: Friday, October 15, 2010 2:06:31 PM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Electrical woes
Using the wife in the trunk is also a good way to align the lid. ? ? Glenn
-----Original Message-----
From: Alice and Ian Potts <ianalice at shaw.ca>
To: Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Fri, Oct 15, 2010 3:53 pm
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Electrical woes
How would you do that? Climb into the trunk and have your wife close the lid? Good riddence! Ian
----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Maher" <michael.maher at virgin.net>
To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Friday, October 15, 2010 12:50 PM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Electrical woes
?
> Could your battery be discharged by what we on this side of the pond
> call > a boot light - (a lamp in the trunk) not shutting off when the
> boot lid is closed?
> A local P6 owner had battery discharge symptoms that we cured by
> taking > the bulb out - the long term solution was to replace the
> switch and ensure > that it did operate when the lid closed.
>
> Regards
>
> Mike Maher
>
> ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Magnet" <magnet at roverclub.org>
> To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2010 12:52 AM
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Electrical woes
>
>
>> Sounds as if the charging system is OK, but the battery drains down
>> after the engine is shut off. I don't think there are a lot of
>> capacitors in a
>> P6 -- only ones to come to mind would be for radio interference
>> suppression. Mine has one behind the back of the boot on the fuel
>> pump lead, but I think that was an aftermarket addition. What about
>> the alternator field relay? If this didn't open when the ignition was
>> shut off, the drain of the alternator field would kill the battery
>> pretty quickly. It lives somewhere in the centre console near the radio >> speaker.
>>
>> Best test would be to put a low-ish range (say 0 to 5 amps) ammeter
>> in series with a battery lead with everything shut off. No current
>> should >> be flowing. If some current is, try disconnecting things
>> (such as the
>> alternator) until the current stops. You might be able to localise
>> the culprit by pulling the fuses in turn.
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> -- Bill D.
>>
>>
>> Netspace wrote:
>>> Is it a separate regulator?
>>>
>>> What current does the ammeter swing to just after it starts?
>>>
>>> Yes capacitors can leak, but usually not that much.
>>>
>>> PVS
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "LANCE G LACERTE, LANCE G LA CERTE"
>>> <lacpsyd6 at msn.com>
>>> To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
>>> Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2010 2:42 AM
>>> Subject: [Rovernet ] Electrical woes
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>> I would appreciate any sage advice from Rovernetters far better
>>>> versed in electrics than I.
>>>> Problem: '70 P6B----alternator rebuilt, but for years before, the
>>>> battery would go flat when parked and not on a charger. When the
>>>> alternator was rebuilt I was told that several capacitors (???)
>>>> were >>>> bad so current was running through even when the ignition
>>>> was off. Even with the alternator fixed I continued to plug in a
>>>> batter tender whenever I parked the car. I rarely drive at night
>>>> (lights on, radio,
>>>> etc.) so have never had problems, BUT, a recent evening out
>>>> resulted in the battery running down and a dead car. This happened
>>>> in the past before the alternator was rebuilt.When the car is
>>>> operating the ammeter shows a neutral or positive charge as though
>>>> everything is working well----of course at a stop, with all lights
>>>> on and turn signals, the meter is reading in the negative until the rpm's pick up again.
>>>> Any thoughts on trouble shooting/fixes. I've always had the
>>>> impression that the charging system/alternator was woefully
>>>> underrated for this car.
>>>> Thanks in advance for any help
>>>>
>>>> Lance La Certe, Psy.D.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was
>>>> scrubbed...
>>>> URL:
>>>> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachment
>>>> s/20101013/f7726fc5/attachment.html>
>>>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this
>>>> page. >>>> Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
>>>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>>
>>>
>>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this
>>> page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
>>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page.
>> Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> =======
>> Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found.
>> (Email Guard: 7.0.0.18, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.16040)
>> http://www.pctools.com/ =======
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>
>
>
> =======
> Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found.
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> http://www.pctools.com/ =======
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From kkinard at att.net Mon Oct 18 15:24:03 2010
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2010 15:24:03 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] Parts Identification
Message-ID: <4CBCACE3.6030702@att.net>
Hi Netters,
I am doing inventory of SU parts and have three part numbers that I
cannot identify by application: AUD 3127 jet bearing, AUD 2277, and AUD
9779 jet. Any help identifying these parts would be appreciated.
Burlen does not list a reference to them on their web site.
Roveretardedly,
Kent K.
From vern at inkspotco.com Mon Oct 18 16:00:15 2010
From: vern at inkspotco.com (Vern Klukas)
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2010 14:00:15 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] Parts Identification
In-Reply-To: <4CBCACE3.6030702@att.net>
References: <4CBCACE3.6030702@att.net>
Message-ID: <58503152-31FB-40EB-8789-EF0C749D9119@inkspotco.com>
Pictures of the parts? Any idea what type of SU, HD, HS or other. The 2277 number rings a bell, but that only means I have a ringing in my ears, lol.
Yours
Vern
PS: How's this for service. 3127 is the bearing for the 1968/69 federal emission carbs for the TC.
On 2010-10-18, at 1:24 PM, Kent Kinard wrote:
> Hi Netters,
> I am doing inventory of SU parts and have three part numbers that I cannot identify by application: AUD 3127 jet bearing, AUD 2277, and AUD 9779 jet. Any help identifying these parts would be appreciated. Burlen does not list a reference to them on their web site.
>
> Roveretardedly,
> Kent K.
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Inkspot Type & Design 250 864 5619 in at inkspotco.com
From kkinard at att.net Mon Oct 18 16:21:53 2010
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2010 16:21:53 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] Parts Identification
In-Reply-To: <58503152-31FB-40EB-8789-EF0C749D9119@inkspotco.com>
References: <4CBCACE3.6030702@att.net>
<58503152-31FB-40EB-8789-EF0C749D9119@inkspotco.com>
Message-ID: <4CBCBA71.70601@att.net>
Vern Klukas wrote:
> Pictures of the parts? Any idea what type of SU, HD, HS or other. The 2277 number rings a bell, but that only means I have a ringing in my ears, lol.
>
> Yours
> Vern
>
> PS: How's this for service. 3127 is the bearing for the 1968/69 federal emission carbs for the TC.
>
Thanks, Vern. I have that same ringing problem...no it was the telephone.
Kent K.
From vern at inkspotco.com Mon Oct 18 16:28:32 2010
From: vern at inkspotco.com (Vern Klukas)
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2010 14:28:32 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] Parts Identification
In-Reply-To: <4CBCBA71.70601@att.net>
References: <4CBCACE3.6030702@att.net>
<58503152-31FB-40EB-8789-EF0C749D9119@inkspotco.com>
<4CBCBA71.70601@att.net>
Message-ID: <924D58FE-8C12-4BA0-938B-CE4D7149A04C@inkspotco.com>
I knew the 2277 was familiar, it's the float bowl top for a HS4 carb. Not sure of the specific application or if it's the front or rear of a twin carb set , probably several applications.
Yours
Vern
On 2010-10-18, at 2:21 PM, Kent Kinard wrote:
> Vern Klukas wrote:
>> Pictures of the parts? Any idea what type of SU, HD, HS or other. The 2277 number rings a bell, but that only means I have a ringing in my ears, lol.
>>
>> Yours
>> Vern
>>
>> PS: How's this for service. 3127 is the bearing for the 1968/69 federal emission carbs for the TC.
>>
> Thanks, Vern. I have that same ringing problem...no it was the telephone.
>
> Kent K.
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Inkspot Type & Design 250 864 5619 in at inkspotco.com
From mgconnor11 at sbcglobal.net Tue Oct 19 10:16:36 2010
From: mgconnor11 at sbcglobal.net (Michael Connor)
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2010 08:16:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet ] P4 Shocks
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP9739DE1B5E136C8B7BE3D391560@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <67949.47093.qm@web83702.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Bill
Thanks for the Monroe shock number. I will go to the parts store and get a pair.Thanks again for the reply.
Mike
--- On Thu, 10/14/10, Magnet <magnet at roverclub.org> wrote:
From: Magnet <magnet at roverclub.org>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] P4 Shocks
To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Date: Thursday, October 14, 2010, 7:15 AM
Monroe 31069 fits the front.? Just need to grind about 1/16 inch off the
end of the top stud.
Haven't found an equivalent for the rear.
Cheers,
-- Bill
===================================================
Michael Connor wrote:
> Does anyone know a current number for P4 shock absorber that would be available in U.S. without having to pay royal mail charges from the U.K.
> Mike
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>
>
>???
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From rababiuk at telusplanet.net Tue Oct 19 17:27:16 2010
From: rababiuk at telusplanet.net (Roy Babiuk)
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2010 16:27:16 -0600
Subject: [Rovernet ] Fuel issues
Message-ID: <FCDAC93D-72BB-47D9-A6BF-77059A0129D6@telusplanet.net>
My 70 TC broke down for the first time on the weekend.
I went for a drive with the wife on Sunday and the car started
stuttering after we rounded a corner.
I shut the engine off, opened the hood to take a quick look and no
evident problems were found. No leaking fluids, belt looked good, etc.
The car would not start after that and came home on the back of a flat
deck tow vehicle.
The next morning I found a sizeable puddle of fuel under the reserve
tap which had a steady leak.
I ordered a fuel resistant O ring from Ruth this morning and installed
a regular O ring until it comes which has solved the reserve tap leak.
I tried to prime the lines with the fuel pump arm, but can't get fuel
to the carbs.
Fuel leaks from the union from the pump to the front carb when
loosened and I can suck fuel through that line, but activating the
fuel pump arm won't push fuel to the carb.
The car fires up when I pour fuel into the float chambers, but dies
when this is used up.
I have made arrangements with Ruth for a rebuilt fuel pump.
Am I missing anything guys?
From vmitps at netspace.net.au Tue Oct 19 17:55:33 2010
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2010 09:55:33 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet ] Fuel issues
In-Reply-To: <FCDAC93D-72BB-47D9-A6BF-77059A0129D6@telusplanet.net>
References: <FCDAC93D-72BB-47D9-A6BF-77059A0129D6@telusplanet.net>
Message-ID: <6A168352011D49329B3CA46F7BFC81EB@Vista>
It sounds like you have it under control.
Did you move it on to reserve shortly before it starved?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roy Babiuk" <rababiuk at telusplanet.net>
To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, October 20, 2010 9:27 AM
Subject: [Rovernet ] Fuel issues
> My 70 TC broke down for the first time on the weekend.
> I went for a drive with the wife on Sunday and the car started stuttering
> after we rounded a corner.
> I shut the engine off, opened the hood to take a quick look and no
> evident problems were found. No leaking fluids, belt looked good, etc.
> The car would not start after that and came home on the back of a flat
> deck tow vehicle.
> The next morning I found a sizeable puddle of fuel under the reserve tap
> which had a steady leak.
> I ordered a fuel resistant O ring from Ruth this morning and installed a
> regular O ring until it comes which has solved the reserve tap leak.
> I tried to prime the lines with the fuel pump arm, but can't get fuel to
> the carbs.
> Fuel leaks from the union from the pump to the front carb when loosened
> and I can suck fuel through that line, but activating the fuel pump arm
> won't push fuel to the carb.
> The car fires up when I pour fuel into the float chambers, but dies when
> this is used up.
> I have made arrangements with Ruth for a rebuilt fuel pump.
> Am I missing anything guys?
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From sdibdin at gmail.com Tue Oct 19 18:05:54 2010
From: sdibdin at gmail.com (Steven Dibdin)
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2010 19:05:54 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Fuel issues
In-Reply-To: <6A168352011D49329B3CA46F7BFC81EB@Vista>
References: <FCDAC93D-72BB-47D9-A6BF-77059A0129D6@telusplanet.net>
<6A168352011D49329B3CA46F7BFC81EB@Vista>
Message-ID: <9D91C617-30DA-4F36-877F-767A1DCBDFAD@gmail.com>
It sounds like the diaphragm in the fuel pump has given up the ghost. If you can suck fuel easily from the tank to pump pipe it could just be that. I would take off the pump, check it's condition with a strip down and repair with a rebuild kit. If you find that the diaphragm has indeed split I would also change the engine oil as fuel may have leaked into the timing case diluting the oil. You maybe fine but worth the peace of mind in my book.
Hope that helps,
Steven
Sent from my iPhone, please excuse any typing errors
On Oct 19, 2010, at 6:55 PM, "Netspace" <vmitps at netspace.net.au> wrote:
> It sounds like you have it under control.
>
> Did you move it on to reserve shortly before it starved?
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Roy Babiuk" <rababiuk at telusplanet.net>
> To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 20, 2010 9:27 AM
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Fuel issues
>
>
>> My 70 TC broke down for the first time on the weekend.
>> I went for a drive with the wife on Sunday and the car started stuttering after we rounded a corner.
>> I shut the engine off, opened the hood to take a quick look and no evident problems were found. No leaking fluids, belt looked good, etc.
>> The car would not start after that and came home on the back of a flat deck tow vehicle.
>> The next morning I found a sizeable puddle of fuel under the reserve tap which had a steady leak.
>> I ordered a fuel resistant O ring from Ruth this morning and installed a regular O ring until it comes which has solved the reserve tap leak.
>> I tried to prime the lines with the fuel pump arm, but can't get fuel to the carbs.
>> Fuel leaks from the union from the pump to the front carb when loosened and I can suck fuel through that line, but activating the fuel pump arm won't push fuel to the carb.
>> The car fires up when I pour fuel into the float chambers, but dies when this is used up.
>> I have made arrangements with Ruth for a rebuilt fuel pump.
>> Am I missing anything guys?
>>
>>
>>
>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From sdibdin at gmail.com Tue Oct 19 18:07:06 2010
From: sdibdin at gmail.com (Steven Dibdin)
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2010 19:07:06 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Fuel issues
In-Reply-To: <6A168352011D49329B3CA46F7BFC81EB@Vista>
References: <FCDAC93D-72BB-47D9-A6BF-77059A0129D6@telusplanet.net>
<6A168352011D49329B3CA46F7BFC81EB@Vista>
Message-ID: <68E2D862-70E6-4F58-84D1-CBF13DA3C35A@gmail.com>
A PS for you: if your pump has a glass bowl it should be mostly full. I it's empty it is the diaphragm.
Cheers,
Steven
Sent from my iPhone, please excuse any typing errors
On Oct 19, 2010, at 6:55 PM, "Netspace" <vmitps at netspace.net.au> wrote:
> It sounds like you have it under control.
>
> Did you move it on to reserve shortly before it starved?
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Roy Babiuk" <rababiuk at telusplanet.net>
> To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 20, 2010 9:27 AM
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Fuel issues
>
>
>> My 70 TC broke down for the first time on the weekend.
>> I went for a drive with the wife on Sunday and the car started stuttering after we rounded a corner.
>> I shut the engine off, opened the hood to take a quick look and no evident problems were found. No leaking fluids, belt looked good, etc.
>> The car would not start after that and came home on the back of a flat deck tow vehicle.
>> The next morning I found a sizeable puddle of fuel under the reserve tap which had a steady leak.
>> I ordered a fuel resistant O ring from Ruth this morning and installed a regular O ring until it comes which has solved the reserve tap leak.
>> I tried to prime the lines with the fuel pump arm, but can't get fuel to the carbs.
>> Fuel leaks from the union from the pump to the front carb when loosened and I can suck fuel through that line, but activating the fuel pump arm won't push fuel to the carb.
>> The car fires up when I pour fuel into the float chambers, but dies when this is used up.
>> I have made arrangements with Ruth for a rebuilt fuel pump.
>> Am I missing anything guys?
>>
>>
>>
>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From rababiuk at telusplanet.net Tue Oct 19 18:59:59 2010
From: rababiuk at telusplanet.net (Roy Babiuk)
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2010 17:59:59 -0600
Subject: [Rovernet ] Fuel issues
Message-ID: <FA46435C-7997-4901-A98B-96AC2FDD6C22@telusplanet.net>
I don't recall if I activated the reserve lately. Always possibIe. I
checked the fuel pump gauze which is slightly damaged, but clean.
Funny thing. I supplied the engine rebuilder with a fuel pump rebuild
kit, but looking at the bills, I can't find any evidence it was
done....
Steven, mine has the metal top. When opened, some fuel does spill out,
but not enough that I would say the chamber was mostly full.
Roy
From sdibdin at gmail.com Tue Oct 19 21:17:52 2010
From: sdibdin at gmail.com (Steven Dibdin)
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2010 22:17:52 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Fuel issues
In-Reply-To: <FA46435C-7997-4901-A98B-96AC2FDD6C22@telusplanet.net>
References: <FA46435C-7997-4901-A98B-96AC2FDD6C22@telusplanet.net>
Message-ID: <0B713255-497D-44AB-9DBB-AF670FDE6696@gmail.com>
Yes, I believe the steel bowls signified the 'high pressure' pump. As supplied to NADA P6s
Sent from my iPhone, please excuse any typing errors
On Oct 19, 2010, at 7:59 PM, Roy Babiuk <rababiuk at telusplanet.net> wrote:
> I don't recall if I activated the reserve lately. Always possibIe. I checked the fuel pump gauze which is slightly damaged, but clean.
> Funny thing. I supplied the engine rebuilder with a fuel pump rebuild kit, but looking at the bills, I can't find any evidence it was done....
> Steven, mine has the metal top. When opened, some fuel does spill out, but not enough that I would say the chamber was mostly full.
> Roy
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From vern at inkspotco.com Tue Oct 19 22:45:51 2010
From: vern at inkspotco.com (Vern Klukas)
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2010 20:45:51 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] Fuel issues
In-Reply-To: <0B713255-497D-44AB-9DBB-AF670FDE6696@gmail.com>
References: <FA46435C-7997-4901-A98B-96AC2FDD6C22@telusplanet.net>
<0B713255-497D-44AB-9DBB-AF670FDE6696@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <818162E6-CE9F-4C26-A589-944E768B59AB@inkspotco.com>
More specifically, NADA P6s from 1968 on with HS carbs and a bleed return to the fuel tank.
Yours
Vern
On 2010-10-19, at 7:17 PM, Steven Dibdin wrote:
> Yes, I believe the steel bowls signified the 'high pressure' pump. As supplied to NADA P6s
>
> Sent from my iPhone, please excuse any typing errors
>
> On Oct 19, 2010, at 7:59 PM, Roy Babiuk <rababiuk at telusplanet.net> wrote:
>
>> I don't recall if I activated the reserve lately. Always possibIe. I checked the fuel pump gauze which is slightly damaged, but clean.
>> Funny thing. I supplied the engine rebuilder with a fuel pump rebuild kit, but looking at the bills, I can't find any evidence it was done....
>> Steven, mine has the metal top. When opened, some fuel does spill out, but not enough that I would say the chamber was mostly full.
>> Roy
>>
>>
>>
>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Inkspot Type & Design 250 864 5619 in at inkspotco.com
From lacpsyd6 at msn.com Wed Oct 20 12:46:21 2010
From: lacpsyd6 at msn.com (LANCE G LACERTE, LANCE G LA CERTE)
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2010 11:46:21 -0600
Subject: [Rovernet ] Fuel issues
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1.1287594009.6396.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
References: <mailman.1.1287594009.6396.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <COL111-W358D9D516AD60A58F006AA835C0@phx.gbl>
Roy,
A couple of other thins to keep in mind----NAPA has a very good supply of fuel resistant o-rings if, in the future you need them faster than Ruth can get them to you. Additionally if you end up buying a new fuel pump I went through a 'traditional' S.U. pump (from Moss Motors) in less than a month----the points just went south. I ordered another S.U. pump with 'electronic points' and the unit has worked flawlessly for years.
Hope that helps.
Lance La Certe, Psy.D., '70 NADA P6B
> From: rovernet-request at rovernet.ca
> Subject: Rovernet Digest, Vol 126, Issue 16
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2010 12:00:09 -0500
>
> Send Rovernet mailing list submissions to
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>
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>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Fuel issues (Roy Babiuk)
> 2. Re: Fuel issues (Netspace)
> 3. Re: Fuel issues (Steven Dibdin)
> 4. Re: Fuel issues (Steven Dibdin)
> 5. Fuel issues (Roy Babiuk)
> 6. Re: Fuel issues (Steven Dibdin)
> 7. Re: Fuel issues (Vern Klukas)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2010 16:27:16 -0600
> From: Roy Babiuk <rababiuk at telusplanet.net>
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Fuel issues
> Message-ID: <FCDAC93D-72BB-47D9-A6BF-77059A0129D6 at telusplanet.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed; delsp=yes
>
> My 70 TC broke down for the first time on the weekend.
> I went for a drive with the wife on Sunday and the car started
> stuttering after we rounded a corner.
> I shut the engine off, opened the hood to take a quick look and no
> evident problems were found. No leaking fluids, belt looked good, etc.
> The car would not start after that and came home on the back of a flat
> deck tow vehicle.
> The next morning I found a sizeable puddle of fuel under the reserve
> tap which had a steady leak.
> I ordered a fuel resistant O ring from Ruth this morning and installed
> a regular O ring until it comes which has solved the reserve tap leak.
> I tried to prime the lines with the fuel pump arm, but can't get fuel
> to the carbs.
> Fuel leaks from the union from the pump to the front carb when
> loosened and I can suck fuel through that line, but activating the
> fuel pump arm won't push fuel to the carb.
> The car fires up when I pour fuel into the float chambers, but dies
> when this is used up.
> I have made arrangements with Ruth for a rebuilt fuel pump.
> Am I missing anything guys?
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2010 09:55:33 +1100
> From: "Netspace" <vmitps at netspace.net.au>
> To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Fuel issues
> Message-ID: <6A168352011D49329B3CA46F7BFC81EB at Vista>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> reply-type=response
>
> It sounds like you have it under control.
>
> Did you move it on to reserve shortly before it starved?
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Roy Babiuk" <rababiuk at telusplanet.net>
> To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 20, 2010 9:27 AM
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Fuel issues
>
>
> > My 70 TC broke down for the first time on the weekend.
> > I went for a drive with the wife on Sunday and the car started stuttering
> > after we rounded a corner.
> > I shut the engine off, opened the hood to take a quick look and no
> > evident problems were found. No leaking fluids, belt looked good, etc.
> > The car would not start after that and came home on the back of a flat
> > deck tow vehicle.
> > The next morning I found a sizeable puddle of fuel under the reserve tap
> > which had a steady leak.
> > I ordered a fuel resistant O ring from Ruth this morning and installed a
> > regular O ring until it comes which has solved the reserve tap leak.
> > I tried to prime the lines with the fuel pump arm, but can't get fuel to
> > the carbs.
> > Fuel leaks from the union from the pump to the front carb when loosened
> > and I can suck fuel through that line, but activating the fuel pump arm
> > won't push fuel to the carb.
> > The car fires up when I pour fuel into the float chambers, but dies when
> > this is used up.
> > I have made arrangements with Ruth for a rebuilt fuel pump.
> > Am I missing anything guys?
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> > sure to scroll down the whole page.
> > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2010 19:05:54 -0400
> From: Steven Dibdin <sdibdin at gmail.com>
> To: Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Fuel issues
> Message-ID: <9D91C617-30DA-4F36-877F-767A1DCBDFAD at gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> It sounds like the diaphragm in the fuel pump has given up the ghost. If you can suck fuel easily from the tank to pump pipe it could just be that. I would take off the pump, check it's condition with a strip down and repair with a rebuild kit. If you find that the diaphragm has indeed split I would also change the engine oil as fuel may have leaked into the timing case diluting the oil. You maybe fine but worth the peace of mind in my book.
>
> Hope that helps,
>
> Steven
>
> Sent from my iPhone, please excuse any typing errors
>
> On Oct 19, 2010, at 6:55 PM, "Netspace" <vmitps at netspace.net.au> wrote:
>
> > It sounds like you have it under control.
> >
> > Did you move it on to reserve shortly before it starved?
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Roy Babiuk" <rababiuk at telusplanet.net>
> > To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> > Sent: Wednesday, October 20, 2010 9:27 AM
> > Subject: [Rovernet ] Fuel issues
> >
> >
> >> My 70 TC broke down for the first time on the weekend.
> >> I went for a drive with the wife on Sunday and the car started stuttering after we rounded a corner.
> >> I shut the engine off, opened the hood to take a quick look and no evident problems were found. No leaking fluids, belt looked good, etc.
> >> The car would not start after that and came home on the back of a flat deck tow vehicle.
> >> The next morning I found a sizeable puddle of fuel under the reserve tap which had a steady leak.
> >> I ordered a fuel resistant O ring from Ruth this morning and installed a regular O ring until it comes which has solved the reserve tap leak.
> >> I tried to prime the lines with the fuel pump arm, but can't get fuel to the carbs.
> >> Fuel leaks from the union from the pump to the front carb when loosened and I can suck fuel through that line, but activating the fuel pump arm won't push fuel to the carb.
> >> The car fires up when I pour fuel into the float chambers, but dies when this is used up.
> >> I have made arrangements with Ruth for a rebuilt fuel pump.
> >> Am I missing anything guys?
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> >> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2010 19:07:06 -0400
> From: Steven Dibdin <sdibdin at gmail.com>
> To: Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Fuel issues
> Message-ID: <68E2D862-70E6-4F58-84D1-CBF13DA3C35A at gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> A PS for you: if your pump has a glass bowl it should be mostly full. I it's empty it is the diaphragm.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Steven
>
> Sent from my iPhone, please excuse any typing errors
>
> On Oct 19, 2010, at 6:55 PM, "Netspace" <vmitps at netspace.net.au> wrote:
>
> > It sounds like you have it under control.
> >
> > Did you move it on to reserve shortly before it starved?
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Roy Babiuk" <rababiuk at telusplanet.net>
> > To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> > Sent: Wednesday, October 20, 2010 9:27 AM
> > Subject: [Rovernet ] Fuel issues
> >
> >
> >> My 70 TC broke down for the first time on the weekend.
> >> I went for a drive with the wife on Sunday and the car started stuttering after we rounded a corner.
> >> I shut the engine off, opened the hood to take a quick look and no evident problems were found. No leaking fluids, belt looked good, etc.
> >> The car would not start after that and came home on the back of a flat deck tow vehicle.
> >> The next morning I found a sizeable puddle of fuel under the reserve tap which had a steady leak.
> >> I ordered a fuel resistant O ring from Ruth this morning and installed a regular O ring until it comes which has solved the reserve tap leak.
> >> I tried to prime the lines with the fuel pump arm, but can't get fuel to the carbs.
> >> Fuel leaks from the union from the pump to the front carb when loosened and I can suck fuel through that line, but activating the fuel pump arm won't push fuel to the carb.
> >> The car fires up when I pour fuel into the float chambers, but dies when this is used up.
> >> I have made arrangements with Ruth for a rebuilt fuel pump.
> >> Am I missing anything guys?
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> >> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2010 17:59:59 -0600
> From: Roy Babiuk <rababiuk at telusplanet.net>
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Fuel issues
> Message-ID: <FA46435C-7997-4901-A98B-96AC2FDD6C22 at telusplanet.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed; delsp=yes
>
> I don't recall if I activated the reserve lately. Always possibIe. I
> checked the fuel pump gauze which is slightly damaged, but clean.
> Funny thing. I supplied the engine rebuilder with a fuel pump rebuild
> kit, but looking at the bills, I can't find any evidence it was
> done....
> Steven, mine has the metal top. When opened, some fuel does spill out,
> but not enough that I would say the chamber was mostly full.
> Roy
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2010 22:17:52 -0400
> From: Steven Dibdin <sdibdin at gmail.com>
> To: Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Cc: "rovernet at rovernet.ca" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Fuel issues
> Message-ID: <0B713255-497D-44AB-9DBB-AF670FDE6696 at gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> Yes, I believe the steel bowls signified the 'high pressure' pump. As supplied to NADA P6s
>
> Sent from my iPhone, please excuse any typing errors
>
> On Oct 19, 2010, at 7:59 PM, Roy Babiuk <rababiuk at telusplanet.net> wrote:
>
> > I don't recall if I activated the reserve lately. Always possibIe. I checked the fuel pump gauze which is slightly damaged, but clean.
> > Funny thing. I supplied the engine rebuilder with a fuel pump rebuild kit, but looking at the bills, I can't find any evidence it was done....
> > Steven, mine has the metal top. When opened, some fuel does spill out, but not enough that I would say the chamber was mostly full.
> > Roy
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2010 20:45:51 -0700
> From: Vern Klukas <vern at inkspotco.com>
> To: Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Fuel issues
> Message-ID: <818162E6-CE9F-4C26-A589-944E768B59AB at inkspotco.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> More specifically, NADA P6s from 1968 on with HS carbs and a bleed return to the fuel tank.
>
> Yours
> Vern
>
>
> On 2010-10-19, at 7:17 PM, Steven Dibdin wrote:
>
> > Yes, I believe the steel bowls signified the 'high pressure' pump. As supplied to NADA P6s
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone, please excuse any typing errors
> >
> > On Oct 19, 2010, at 7:59 PM, Roy Babiuk <rababiuk at telusplanet.net> wrote:
> >
> >> I don't recall if I activated the reserve lately. Always possibIe. I checked the fuel pump gauze which is slightly damaged, but clean.
> >> Funny thing. I supplied the engine rebuilder with a fuel pump rebuild kit, but looking at the bills, I can't find any evidence it was done....
> >> Steven, mine has the metal top. When opened, some fuel does spill out, but not enough that I would say the chamber was mostly full.
> >> Roy
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> >> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> >
> > To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
> Inkspot Type & Design 250 864 5619 in at inkspotco.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Want to post photos?
> Go here: http://photobucket.com/
>
>
> End of Rovernet Digest, Vol 126, Issue 16
> *****************************************
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From slatskars at comcast.net Wed Oct 20 14:00:18 2010
From: slatskars at comcast.net (slatskars at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2010 19:00:18 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rovernet ] Fuel issues
In-Reply-To: <COL111-W358D9D516AD60A58F006AA835C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <2012953381.85719.1287601217662.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
New SU fuel pumps, with points, should last much longer than a month. In fact in normal driving it should go a few years. Did you clean the points with a cleaning solvent to remove possible corrosion or protective coating before use? The instructions advice this step. It is also helpful to test one on a battery before installing as a check. The newer ones have a diode across the coil winding to dampen the sparking. If you run one on a battery, with the cap off, you can see the level of sparking. If the sparking is excessive it may have a faulty diode. Be cautious and note that the pin holding the points to the pedestal may move a little. You want it centered before replacing the cap. I broke a pin recently, so I am speaking from experience.
The new electronic SU pumps use a "Hall Effect" transistor for the switching circuit. This is a magnetic triggering system. You can purchase a kit directly from Burlen Fuel Systems in the $40 range. Dave DuBois (Google SU fuel pumps) will rebuild a fuel pump and convert it to solid state using an optical triggering system for about $100 plus shipping. He is located in Washington state. I too will be rebuilding SU pumps to Dave's specifications very shortly. I have spent a couple of days with him and agreed to take some of the load (volume), particularly from May to October. He does not rebuild them during the summer months.
Slats
----- Original Message -----
From: "LANCE G LACERTE, LANCE G LA CERTE" <lacpsyd6 at msn.com>
To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, October 20, 2010 10:46:21 AM
Subject: [Rovernet ] Fuel issues
Roy,
A couple of other thins to keep in mind----NAPA has a very good supply of fuel resistant o-rings if, in the future you need them faster than Ruth can get them to you. ?Additionally if you end up buying a new fuel pump I went through a 'traditional' S.U. pump (from Moss Motors) in less than a month----the points just went south. ?I ordered another S.U. pump with 'electronic points' and the unit has worked flawlessly for years.
Hope that helps.
Lance La Certe, Psy.D., ? '70 NADA P6B
> From: rovernet-request at rovernet.ca
> Subject: Rovernet Digest, Vol 126, Issue 16
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2010 12:00:09 -0500
>
> Send Rovernet mailing list submissions to
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> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
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> than "Re: Contents of Rovernet digest..."
>
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> Please edit your digest reply by changing the subject line to the topic to which you are referring.
>
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
> ? ?1. Fuel issues (Roy Babiuk)
> ? ?2. Re: Fuel issues (Netspace)
> ? ?3. Re: Fuel issues (Steven Dibdin)
> ? ?4. Re: Fuel issues (Steven Dibdin)
> ? ?5. Fuel issues (Roy Babiuk)
> ? ?6. Re: Fuel issues (Steven Dibdin)
> ? ?7. Re: Fuel issues (Vern Klukas)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2010 16:27:16 -0600
> From: Roy Babiuk <rababiuk at telusplanet.net>
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Fuel issues
> Message-ID: <FCDAC93D-72BB-47D9-A6BF-77059A0129D6 at telusplanet.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed; delsp=yes
>
> My 70 TC broke down for the first time on the weekend.
> I went for a drive with the wife on Sunday and the car started ?
> stuttering after we rounded a corner.
> I shut the engine off, opened the hood to take a quick look and no ?
> evident problems were found. No leaking fluids, belt looked good, etc.
> The car would not start after that and came home on the back of a flat ?
> deck tow vehicle.
> The next morning I found a sizeable puddle of fuel under the reserve ?
> tap which had a steady leak.
> I ordered a fuel resistant O ring from Ruth this morning and installed ?
> a regular O ring until it comes which has solved the reserve tap leak.
> I tried to prime the lines with the fuel pump arm, but can't get fuel ?
> to the carbs.
> Fuel leaks from the union from the pump to the front carb when ?
> loosened and I can suck fuel through that line, but activating the ?
> fuel pump arm won't push fuel to the carb.
> The car fires up when I pour fuel into the float chambers, but dies ?
> when this is used up.
> I have made arrangements with Ruth for a rebuilt fuel pump.
> Am I missing anything guys?
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2010 09:55:33 +1100
> From: "Netspace" <vmitps at netspace.net.au>
> To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Fuel issues
> Message-ID: <6A168352011D49329B3CA46F7BFC81EB at Vista>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> ????????reply-type=response
>
> It sounds like you have it under control.
>
> Did you move it on to reserve shortly before it starved?
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Roy Babiuk" <rababiuk at telusplanet.net>
> To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 20, 2010 9:27 AM
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Fuel issues
>
>
> > My 70 TC broke down for the first time on the weekend.
> > I went for a drive with the wife on Sunday and the car started ?stuttering
> > after we rounded a corner.
> > I shut the engine off, opened the hood to take a quick look and no
> > evident problems were found. No leaking fluids, belt looked good, etc.
> > The car would not start after that and came home on the back of a flat
> > deck tow vehicle.
> > The next morning I found a sizeable puddle of fuel under the reserve ?tap
> > which had a steady leak.
> > I ordered a fuel resistant O ring from Ruth this morning and installed ?a
> > regular O ring until it comes which has solved the reserve tap leak.
> > I tried to prime the lines with the fuel pump arm, but can't get fuel ?to
> > the carbs.
> > Fuel leaks from the union from the pump to the front carb when ?loosened
> > and I can suck fuel through that line, but activating the ?fuel pump arm
> > won't push fuel to the carb.
> > The car fires up when I pour fuel into the float chambers, but dies ?when
> > this is used up.
> > I have made arrangements with Ruth for a rebuilt fuel pump.
> > Am I missing anything guys?
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> > sure to scroll down the whole page.
> > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2010 19:05:54 -0400
> From: Steven Dibdin <sdibdin at gmail.com>
> To: Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Fuel issues
> Message-ID: <9D91C617-30DA-4F36-877F-767A1DCBDFAD at gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain;????????charset=us-ascii
>
> It sounds like the diaphragm in the fuel pump has given up the ghost. If you can suck fuel easily from the tank to pump pipe it could just be that. I would take off the pump, check it's condition with a strip down and repair with a rebuild kit. If you find that the diaphragm has indeed split I would also change the engine oil as fuel may have leaked into the timing case diluting the oil. You maybe fine but worth the peace of mind in my book.
>
> Hope that helps,
>
> Steven
>
> Sent from my iPhone, please excuse any typing errors
>
> On Oct 19, 2010, at 6:55 PM, "Netspace" <vmitps at netspace.net.au> wrote:
>
> > It sounds like you have it under control.
> >
> > Did you move it on to reserve shortly before it starved?
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Roy Babiuk" <rababiuk at telusplanet.net>
> > To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> > Sent: Wednesday, October 20, 2010 9:27 AM
> > Subject: [Rovernet ] Fuel issues
> >
> >
> >> My 70 TC broke down for the first time on the weekend.
> >> I went for a drive with the wife on Sunday and the car started ?stuttering after we rounded a corner.
> >> I shut the engine off, opened the hood to take a quick look and no evident problems were found. No leaking fluids, belt looked good, etc.
> >> The car would not start after that and came home on the back of a flat deck tow vehicle.
> >> The next morning I found a sizeable puddle of fuel under the reserve ?tap which had a steady leak.
> >> I ordered a fuel resistant O ring from Ruth this morning and installed ?a regular O ring until it comes which has solved the reserve tap leak.
> >> I tried to prime the lines with the fuel pump arm, but can't get fuel ?to the carbs.
> >> Fuel leaks from the union from the pump to the front carb when ?loosened and I can suck fuel through that line, but activating the ?fuel pump arm won't push fuel to the carb.
> >> The car fires up when I pour fuel into the float chambers, but dies ?when this is used up.
> >> I have made arrangements with Ruth for a rebuilt fuel pump.
> >> Am I missing anything guys?
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> >> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2010 19:07:06 -0400
> From: Steven Dibdin <sdibdin at gmail.com>
> To: Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Fuel issues
> Message-ID: <68E2D862-70E6-4F58-84D1-CBF13DA3C35A at gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain;????????charset=us-ascii
>
> A PS for you: if your pump has a glass bowl it should be mostly full. I it's empty it is the diaphragm.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Steven
>
> Sent from my iPhone, please excuse any typing errors
>
> On Oct 19, 2010, at 6:55 PM, "Netspace" <vmitps at netspace.net.au> wrote:
>
> > It sounds like you have it under control.
> >
> > Did you move it on to reserve shortly before it starved?
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Roy Babiuk" <rababiuk at telusplanet.net>
> > To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> > Sent: Wednesday, October 20, 2010 9:27 AM
> > Subject: [Rovernet ] Fuel issues
> >
> >
> >> My 70 TC broke down for the first time on the weekend.
> >> I went for a drive with the wife on Sunday and the car started ?stuttering after we rounded a corner.
> >> I shut the engine off, opened the hood to take a quick look and no evident problems were found. No leaking fluids, belt looked good, etc.
> >> The car would not start after that and came home on the back of a flat deck tow vehicle.
> >> The next morning I found a sizeable puddle of fuel under the reserve ?tap which had a steady leak.
> >> I ordered a fuel resistant O ring from Ruth this morning and installed ?a regular O ring until it comes which has solved the reserve tap leak.
> >> I tried to prime the lines with the fuel pump arm, but can't get fuel ?to the carbs.
> >> Fuel leaks from the union from the pump to the front carb when ?loosened and I can suck fuel through that line, but activating the ?fuel pump arm won't push fuel to the carb.
> >> The car fires up when I pour fuel into the float chambers, but dies ?when this is used up.
> >> I have made arrangements with Ruth for a rebuilt fuel pump.
> >> Am I missing anything guys?
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> >> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2010 17:59:59 -0600
> From: Roy Babiuk <rababiuk at telusplanet.net>
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Fuel issues
> Message-ID: <FA46435C-7997-4901-A98B-96AC2FDD6C22 at telusplanet.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed; delsp=yes
>
> I don't recall if I activated the reserve lately. Always possibIe. I ?
> checked the fuel pump gauze which is slightly damaged, but clean.
> Funny thing. I supplied the engine rebuilder with a fuel pump rebuild ?
> kit, but looking at ?the bills, I can't find any evidence it was ?
> done....
> Steven, mine has the metal top. When opened, some fuel does spill out, ?
> but not enough that I would ?say the chamber was mostly full.
> Roy
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2010 22:17:52 -0400
> From: Steven Dibdin <sdibdin at gmail.com>
> To: Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Cc: "rovernet at rovernet.ca" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Fuel issues
> Message-ID: <0B713255-497D-44AB-9DBB-AF670FDE6696 at gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain;????????charset=us-ascii
>
> Yes, I believe the steel bowls signified the 'high pressure' pump. As supplied to NADA P6s
>
> Sent from my iPhone, please excuse any typing errors
>
> On Oct 19, 2010, at 7:59 PM, Roy Babiuk <rababiuk at telusplanet.net> wrote:
>
> > I don't recall if I activated the reserve lately. Always possibIe. I checked the fuel pump gauze which is slightly damaged, but clean.
> > Funny thing. I supplied the engine rebuilder with a fuel pump rebuild kit, but looking at ?the bills, I can't find any evidence it was done....
> > Steven, mine has the metal top. When opened, some fuel does spill out, but not enough that I would ?say the chamber was mostly full.
> > Roy
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2010 20:45:51 -0700
> From: Vern Klukas <vern at inkspotco.com>
> To: Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Fuel issues
> Message-ID: <818162E6-CE9F-4C26-A589-944E768B59AB at inkspotco.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> More specifically, NADA P6s from 1968 on with HS carbs and a bleed return to the fuel tank.
>
> Yours
> Vern
>
>
> On 2010-10-19, at 7:17 PM, Steven Dibdin wrote:
>
> > Yes, I believe the steel bowls signified the 'high pressure' pump. As supplied to NADA P6s
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone, please excuse any typing errors
> >
> > On Oct 19, 2010, at 7:59 PM, Roy Babiuk <rababiuk at telusplanet.net> wrote:
> >
> >> I don't recall if I activated the reserve lately. Always possibIe. I checked the fuel pump gauze which is slightly damaged, but clean.
> >> Funny thing. I supplied the engine rebuilder with a fuel pump rebuild kit, but looking at ?the bills, I can't find any evidence it was done....
> >> Steven, mine has the metal top. When opened, some fuel does spill out, but not enough that I would ?say the chamber was mostly full.
> >> Roy
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> >> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> >
> > To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
> Inkspot Type & Design????????250 864 5619????????in at inkspotco.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Want to post photos?
> Go here: http://photobucket.com/
>
>
> End of Rovernet Digest, Vol 126, Issue 16
> *****************************************
????????????????? ???????? ? ???????????????? ?
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From sdibdin at gmail.com Wed Oct 20 14:17:42 2010
From: sdibdin at gmail.com (Steven Dibdin)
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2010 15:17:42 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Fuel issues
In-Reply-To: <2012953381.85719.1287601217662.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <COL111-W358D9D516AD60A58F006AA835C0@phx.gbl>
<2012953381.85719.1287601217662.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTi=Xa_P_ACK6WqADhdLkLHRTAXX-S7PQ0Xf_ShWS@mail.gmail.com>
Hi Folks,
bear in mind that the P6 4 cylinder engine uses a mechanical fuel pump not
an electric. Unlike the V8 models.
Cheers,
Steven
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From sdibdin at gmail.com Wed Oct 20 14:18:20 2010
From: sdibdin at gmail.com (Steven Dibdin)
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2010 15:18:20 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Fuel issues
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTimd36YGZT7v=_B=Bw3NaMALUn72xHCr30rtQWVN@mail.gmail.com>
References: <COL111-W358D9D516AD60A58F006AA835C0@phx.gbl>
<2012953381.85719.1287601217662.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
<AANLkTimd36YGZT7v=_B=Bw3NaMALUn72xHCr30rtQWVN@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikvBWFWAs-5=L6Uzsu7Fzm8L=4mrcs2BzMrv=RS@mail.gmail.com>
Hi Folks,
bear in mind that the P6 4 cylinder engine uses a mechanical fuel pump not
an electric. Unlike the V8 models.
Cheers,
Steven
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From peter at king-co.com Wed Oct 20 15:32:21 2010
From: peter at king-co.com (peter king)
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2010 16:32:21 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] NOS parts Required
In-Reply-To: <4C8FCD54.7080608@att.net>
References: <8E848D809DDA4916AEC28D01830889DA@richc2upoimqhi>
<4C8FCD54.7080608@att.net>
Message-ID: <89D63398-3B97-4B88-B32C-D52EB0085D79@king-co.com>
The mirrors on my 71 NADA 3500s are original to the car, and are round. Here's a link to pics for reference:
http://www.king-co.com/rover3500s/pages/IMG_02.htm
also a '70 I was working on for a while...
http://www.king-co.com/redrover/pages/IMG_1785.htm
Single mounting screw on the base plate.
Peter
On Sep 14, 2010, at 3:30 PM, Kent Kinard wrote:
> Hi Rich,
> The lens for the side marker lights are P5B pieces which should be available to you. The lamp bodies may be unique and I may have some of those.
> I will also check on the mirrors. A picture would be helpful. Hard to believe these aren't available from someone...
> I probably have an aircon face plate. It will be the weekend before I tell you for sure and if I only have one NOS, I will want to save it for my car. Would you be interested in excellent used if I have it?
>
> Roverly,
> Kent K.
> San Antonio, TX
>
> rich jones wrote:
>> Hi Everyone,
>> I wonder if anyone can help me locate NOS parts for 3500S
>>
>> I am requireing the following;
>>
>> 1.Side marker lamps (complete)
>> 2. Door mirrors x 2 ( Not Winguard as fitted as a option over here in England but the US style that I have seen on many NADA cars, round head on a stem which leans forwards with one fixing screw at the base)
>> 3.Aircon facia plate (switch panel)
>>
>> A bit of a long shot but worth a try.
>>
>> Many thanks
>>
>> Rich Jones
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>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>
>>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
peter king + company
21 drydock avenue
boston, ma 02210
617-292-7877
www.king-co.com
From kkinard at att.net Wed Oct 20 21:59:19 2010
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2010 21:59:19 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] Alternator
In-Reply-To: <COL111-W619E7B62DBC40DC7471166835C0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL111-W277A0E92A3659E3482D1E983570@phx.gbl>,
<4CB86C84.5060602@att.net>
<COL111-W16E3D234C1AA97AA870019835C0@phx.gbl>,
<4CBF4B0E.5080402@att.net>
<COL111-W619E7B62DBC40DC7471166835C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4CBFAC87.9010905@att.net>
Hi Netters,
Below are excerpts from a conversation Lance and I have been having
about Delco alternator conversion for his P6B. It has been a long time
since I did one of these and I would like for those on the list to check
my homework. Please chime in.
Roverly,
Kent K.
LANCE G LACERTE, LANCE G LA CERTE wrote:
> Hi Kent,
> I may strongly consider the 8 gauge wire from the alternator to the
> power connector (please make sure to help identify which wire that
> would be), as I have fears about the battery dying and having to
> engage a tow truck to get it home before I can get it on my trickle
> charger----versus just being able to jump it in place [that's what's
> been so frustrating about the electrics with this car-----I always
> have it on a trickle charger when not driving it, and even with just
> one evening jaunt with the lights on the battery died!!!!].
In this case, connect the 8 gauge wire from the ring terminal at the
back of the Delco alternator to the terminal on the starter solenoid
which is already connected to the heavy gauge wire (probably brown)
coming from the battery. Leave the heavy gauge wire that is already
there in place and stack the new wire on top of it. Tape to insulate
and then set aside the heavy brown wire with white trace that comes from
the Lucas alternator. Splice the small brown wire with yellow trace to
the pigtail for terminal #1 on the Delco alternator (this wire goes to
the relay for the ignition warning lamp). Splice the small brown wire
with red trace to the pigtail for terminal #2 on the Delco alternator
(this is the system voltage sensing wire). As explained previously, the
ammeter will now only show discharge and not charge.
>
> This brings me back to the second question I posed (once again, get to
> me on this only when you have some spare time----it is not
> urgent)----I'd really like some feedback/guidance about installing a
> cut out switch somewhere in line with the battery because I fear there
> is still some 'ghost' draining the power somewhere else in the system.
Battery disconnect switches are large and must carry the entire output
of the battery. They should be located at the battery if possible so
that connections can be checked regularly, which in the case of the P6B
means in the boot in line with the + feed. Some have a post terminal
for mounting directly on the battery. In the case of the P6B, this
would require modifying the battery cover. Others versions are designed
to mount through sheet metal with + and - terminals on the "outside" and
the knob or lever on the "inside." I don't like these because there is
no good place to mount them without running a longer replacement cable,
so I stick with battery mounted types.
> .......and finally, any feedback about the rear engine seal question?.
It is possible to replace the rear main seal on the post '76 blocks by
leaving the engine in place and removing the transmission (yuck!). I
have never had a rear main seal leak on an SD1 or Range Rover post '76.
Front, yes. Rear, no. Almost makes you wish you had kept the old
block. You can replace the rear main seal on those without removing the
engine or the trans, though it is still a major pain to do so. In any
case, you will have to remove the oil pan, the bearing cap, bearing
lower half and side seals also. You must use new side seals as well as
a new ring lip seal because you can never be sure which seal is leaking.
Are you sure it isn't the front seal on the trans? Put a piece of white
paper under the car an see what color it drips. You don't have many
miles on that engine rebuild. Was the trans done at the same time?
Roverly,
Kent K.
>
>
>
> > Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2010 15:03:26 -0500
> > From: kkinard at att.net
> > To: lacpsyd6 at msn.com
> > Subject: Re: Alternator
> >
> > Hi Lance, I have studied the wiring diagram
> > and have two answers. The situation with the P6B is somewhat
> > complicated by the fact that it has an ammeter through which most of
> the
> > current must pass. The original alternator is 43 amps and the new one
> > is 63 amps. Everything I have read suggests that the main power output
> > from the new alternator (ring terminal on back) will not be too much
> > for the existing wire and ammeter provided you don't ever let the
> > battery go dead and then jump start the car. Under those circumstances
> > the full 63 amps going through the original wiring might overheat the
> > circuit. At no other time would the full output of the new alternator
> > ever be called upon. The main advantage of the bigger alternator is
> > better charging at low speed.
> > If you don't feel comfortable with the original main power wire, you
> can
> > run a cable (10 gauge or better yet 8 gauge) from the ring terminal to
> > the power connection at the starter solenoid (and not using the present
> > power output wire to the ammeter). The ammeter will then only register
> > discharge and not charge. I would personally just use the existing
> > power wire and keep the car on a trickle charger. If you ever do have a
> > flat battery, just charge it with a remote charger instead of jump
> > starting it.
> >
> > I will send you the color codes (don't want to do that from memory,
> > though I'm 9% sure) and wiring instructions tonight when I get home. I
> > haven't been to the shop to check the mounting bracket. At the very
> > least you will need to drill the bolt holes in the bracket oversize (
> > the Delco uses a larger bolt) and make a spacer(s) to fit over the bolt
> > (copper tubing is good) to bring the Delco into proper alignment with
> > the crankshaft and water pump pulley. If it is still too far to the
> > rear, you may need another bracket which I can supply...but not by this
> > weekend.
> >
> > Roverly,
> > Kent K.
> >
> > LANCE G LACERTE, LANCE G LA CERTE wrote:
> > > Kent,
> > >
> > > Just touching base to see if you've had time to look over the wiring
> > > diagram for the NADA P6. I have a rare full 3 day weekend coming up
> > > and thought I might tackle the job. If found a new, internally
> > > regulated Delco 63 alternator at Checker for 45 bucks along with the
> > > 'pigtail' electrical leads. I wait to hear from you about wiring,
> > > installation and any mounting modifications I need to do/get from you.
> > >
From kkinard at att.net Wed Oct 20 22:17:45 2010
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2010 22:17:45 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] Alternator Postscript
In-Reply-To: <4CBFAC87.9010905@att.net>
References: <COL111-W277A0E92A3659E3482D1E983570@phx.gbl>,
<4CB86C84.5060602@att.net> <COL111-W16E3D234C1AA97AA870019835C0@phx.gbl>,
<4CBF4B0E.5080402@att.net> <COL111-W619E7B62DBC40DC7471166835C0@phx.gbl>
<4CBFAC87.9010905@att.net>
Message-ID: <4CBFB0D9.4090300@att.net>
A couple of other variables regarding mounting. The adjusting strap will
almost certainly be too short. Longer straps are a common speed shop
item. Get a curved one and be prepared to do some grinding on the strap
for clearance. Most alternators come with a single groove pulley. A
double groove pulley will often solve an alignment problem if the
alternator will not move forward far enough on the bracket. This is the
case with SD1 alternator bracket and water pump/pulley combinations. -KK
Kent Kinard wrote:
> Hi Netters,
> Below are excerpts from a conversation Lance and I have been having
> about Delco alternator conversion for his P6B. It has been a long time
> since I did one of these and I would like for those on the list to
> check my homework. Please chime in.
>
> Roverly,
> Kent K.
>
> LANCE G LACERTE, LANCE G LA CERTE wrote:
>> Hi Kent,
>> I may strongly consider the 8 gauge wire from the alternator to the
>> power connector (please make sure to help identify which wire that
>> would be), as I have fears about the battery dying and having to
>> engage a tow truck to get it home before I can get it on my trickle
>> charger----versus just being able to jump it in place [that's what's
>> been so frustrating about the electrics with this car-----I always
>> have it on a trickle charger when not driving it, and even with just
>> one evening jaunt with the lights on the battery died!!!!].
> In this case, connect the 8 gauge wire from the ring terminal at the
> back of the Delco alternator to the terminal on the starter solenoid
> which is already connected to the heavy gauge wire (probably brown)
> coming from the battery. Leave the heavy gauge wire that is already
> there in place and stack the new wire on top of it. Tape to insulate
> and then set aside the heavy brown wire with white trace that comes
> from the Lucas alternator. Splice the small brown wire with yellow
> trace to the pigtail for terminal #1 on the Delco alternator (this
> wire goes to the relay for the ignition warning lamp). Splice the
> small brown wire with red trace to the pigtail for terminal #2 on the
> Delco alternator (this is the system voltage sensing wire). As
> explained previously, the ammeter will now only show discharge and not
> charge.
>>
>> This brings me back to the second question I posed (once again, get
>> to me on this only when you have some spare time----it is not
>> urgent)----I'd really like some feedback/guidance about installing a
>> cut out switch somewhere in line with the battery because I fear
>> there is still some 'ghost' draining the power somewhere else in the
>> system.
> Battery disconnect switches are large and must carry the entire output
> of the battery. They should be located at the battery if possible so
> that connections can be checked regularly, which in the case of the
> P6B means in the boot in line with the + feed. Some have a post
> terminal for mounting directly on the battery. In the case of the P6B,
> this would require modifying the battery cover. Others versions are
> designed to mount through sheet metal with + and - terminals on the
> "outside" and the knob or lever on the "inside." I don't like these
> because there is no good place to mount them without running a longer
> replacement cable, so I stick with battery mounted types.
>> .......and finally, any feedback about the rear engine seal question?.
> It is possible to replace the rear main seal on the post '76 blocks by
> leaving the engine in place and removing the transmission (yuck!). I
> have never had a rear main seal leak on an SD1 or Range Rover post
> '76. Front, yes. Rear, no. Almost makes you wish you had kept the old
> block. You can replace the rear main seal on those without removing
> the engine or the trans, though it is still a major pain to do so. In
> any case, you will have to remove the oil pan, the bearing cap,
> bearing lower half and side seals also. You must use new side seals as
> well as a new ring lip seal because you can never be sure which seal
> is leaking. Are you sure it isn't the front seal on the trans? Put a
> piece of white paper under the car an see what color it drips. You
> don't have many miles on that engine rebuild. Was the trans done at
> the same time?
>
> Roverly,
> Kent K.
>>
>>
>>
>> > Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2010 15:03:26 -0500
>> > From: kkinard at att.net
>> > To: lacpsyd6 at msn.com
>> > Subject: Re: Alternator
>> >
>> > Hi Lance, I have studied the wiring diagram
>> > and have two answers. The situation with the P6B is somewhat
>> > complicated by the fact that it has an ammeter through which most
>> of the
>> > current must pass. The original alternator is 43 amps and the new one
>> > is 63 amps. Everything I have read suggests that the main power output
>> > from the new alternator (ring terminal on back) will not be too much
>> > for the existing wire and ammeter provided you don't ever let the
>> > battery go dead and then jump start the car. Under those circumstances
>> > the full 63 amps going through the original wiring might overheat the
>> > circuit. At no other time would the full output of the new alternator
>> > ever be called upon. The main advantage of the bigger alternator is
>> > better charging at low speed.
>> > If you don't feel comfortable with the original main power wire,
>> you can
>> > run a cable (10 gauge or better yet 8 gauge) from the ring terminal to
>> > the power connection at the starter solenoid (and not using the
>> present
>> > power output wire to the ammeter). The ammeter will then only register
>> > discharge and not charge. I would personally just use the existing
>> > power wire and keep the car on a trickle charger. If you ever do
>> have a
>> > flat battery, just charge it with a remote charger instead of jump
>> > starting it.
>> >
>> > I will send you the color codes (don't want to do that from memory,
>> > though I'm 9% sure) and wiring instructions tonight when I get home. I
>> > haven't been to the shop to check the mounting bracket. At the very
>> > least you will need to drill the bolt holes in the bracket oversize (
>> > the Delco uses a larger bolt) and make a spacer(s) to fit over the
>> bolt
>> > (copper tubing is good) to bring the Delco into proper alignment with
>> > the crankshaft and water pump pulley. If it is still too far to the
>> > rear, you may need another bracket which I can supply...but not by
>> this
>> > weekend.
>> >
>> > Roverly,
>> > Kent K.
>> >
>> > LANCE G LACERTE, LANCE G LA CERTE wrote:
>> > > Kent,
>> > >
>> > > Just touching base to see if you've had time to look over the wiring
>> > > diagram for the NADA P6. I have a rare full 3 day weekend coming up
>> > > and thought I might tackle the job. If found a new, internally
>> > > regulated Delco 63 alternator at Checker for 45 bucks along with the
>> > > 'pigtail' electrical leads. I wait to hear from you about wiring,
>> > > installation and any mounting modifications I need to do/get from
>> you.
>> > >
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page.
> Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
From kkinard at att.net Wed Oct 20 22:43:17 2010
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2010 22:43:17 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] First start
In-Reply-To: <006801cb705e$df564200$0100000a@owner1b4c6f2cf>
References: <006801cb705e$df564200$0100000a@owner1b4c6f2cf>
Message-ID: <4CBFB6D5.5030109@att.net>
roger matheson wrote:
> Hi Kent,
> How are you going with your No 8 sooting plug problem ?
> It sounds quite curious and would be interested in what you found.
> Can't get onto Rovernet tonight for some reason
> Cheers Roger
Hi Roger,
I haven't been able to get back out to the shop and won't be there again
until Monday, so further investigation is on hold. The engine has been
apart and back together but runs the same with the same problem. I will
do more careful compression tests, but I still think it is an ignition
problem. I will, as a last resort, change everything in the ignition
system from dizzy on out to and including plugs. I have three brands of
plugs from which to choose.
Roverly,
Kent K.
From allangrp at gis.net Sun Oct 24 16:06:36 2010
From: allangrp at gis.net (Joe Allan)
Date: Sun, 24 Oct 2010 17:06:36 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] RoveAmerica 2010 Pictures
In-Reply-To: <59F16C36-3EB5-4904-B19A-1345B529A073@alumni.bates.edu>
References: <405091.37097.qm@web34304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
<59F16C36-3EB5-4904-B19A-1345B529A073@alumni.bates.edu>
Message-ID: <C4DBE0FF92B9480595682200DF5DFD4B@testinst44469c>
Hi Hank,
Sorry it has taken me a while to follow-up on your email. There is so much
going on here.
Dirk is going to produce a new Rover collector's book for the 2009 and 2010
RoveAmerica events. He would appreciate you sending copies of your photos to
Doreen Abraham (photographer at 2010 event) for the book.
Doreen's email address is: dabraham at vy-tek.com. If this is not easy to do
please send her a CD or DVD c/o Vytek, 195 Industrial Road, Fitchburg, MA
01420.
Thanks and best regards for the upcoming holidays.
Joe Allan
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Henry Manwell
Sent: Tuesday, August 31, 2010 6:50 PM
To: Rovernet
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] RoveAmerica 2010 Pictures
Thanks to you and Steve, Eric. Nice presentation.
Hank
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
sure to scroll down the whole page.
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From irishrover1 at live.com Sun Oct 24 17:57:13 2010
From: irishrover1 at live.com (Frederick Ben Rodgers)
Date: Sun, 24 Oct 2010 20:57:13 -0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] RoveAmerica 2010 Pictures
In-Reply-To: <C4DBE0FF92B9480595682200DF5DFD4B@testinst44469c>
References: <405091.37097.qm@web34304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>,
<59F16C36-3EB5-4904-B19A-1345B529A073@alumni.bates.edu>,
<C4DBE0FF92B9480595682200DF5DFD4B@testinst44469c>
Message-ID: <COL111-W3E3C64ACEDAB02DF5682487400@phx.gbl>
Hi Rover Guru's
I have discovered a serious problem with my latest purchase a 1961 Rover P4-100, it jumps out of second gear. I have no problem with taking the gear box out but I have never attempted to repair/replace synchros/gears etc in a Rover box. I did a few BMC's many years ago. My question, is it a difficult task and should I perhaps look for another gear box. Will a series one or two Land Rovers fit. if I decide to try and rebuild are the parts available?. Any advice would be appreciated. Its ironic that just a month before I bought this car I parted with a good P4-100 box for the cost of shipping. Oh well!!!! that's life!!!!
Cheers Ben (irishrover)
*************
My Books Lily & Me, and The Royal Navy & Me, are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs, HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
-------------- next part --------------
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From vmitps at netspace.net.au Sun Oct 24 20:05:12 2010
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2010 12:05:12 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet ] RoveAmerica 2010 Pictures
In-Reply-To: <COL111-W3E3C64ACEDAB02DF5682487400@phx.gbl>
References: <405091.37097.qm@web34304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>,
<59F16C36-3EB5-4904-B19A-1345B529A073@alumni.bates.edu>,
<C4DBE0FF92B9480595682200DF5DFD4B@testinst44469c>
<COL111-W3E3C64ACEDAB02DF5682487400@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <9028DAABDCAE46FC9DB794E2B92D5371@Vista>
Check the mounts first.
Then the shifter - does it put it in to 2nd properly.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frederick Ben Rodgers" <irishrover1 at live.com>
To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Monday, October 25, 2010 9:57 AM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] RoveAmerica 2010 Pictures
>
> Hi Rover Guru's
> I have discovered a serious problem with my latest
> purchase a 1961 Rover P4-100, it jumps out of second gear. I have no
> problem with taking the gear box out but I have never attempted to
> repair/replace synchros/gears etc in a Rover box. I did a few BMC's many
> years ago. My question, is it a difficult task and should I perhaps look
> for another gear box. Will a series one or two Land Rovers fit. if I
> decide to try and rebuild are the parts available?. Any advice would be
> appreciated. Its ironic that just a month before I bought this car I
> parted with a good P4-100 box for the cost of shipping. Oh well!!!! that's
> life!!!!
> Cheers Ben (irishrover)
>
> *************
> My Books Lily & Me, and The Royal Navy & Me, are now available as
> E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs, HMS Ganges,
> Royal Navy?
> then
> Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:
> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20101024/d330d28a/attachment.html>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From irishrover1 at live.com Mon Oct 25 05:10:09 2010
From: irishrover1 at live.com (Frederick Ben Rodgers)
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2010 08:10:09 -0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] RoveAmerica 2010 Pictures
In-Reply-To: <9028DAABDCAE46FC9DB794E2B92D5371@Vista>
References: <405091.37097.qm@web34304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>, ,
<59F16C36-3EB5-4904-B19A-1345B529A073@alumni.bates.edu>, ,
<C4DBE0FF92B9480595682200DF5DFD4B@testinst44469c>,
<COL111-W3E3C64ACEDAB02DF5682487400@phx.gbl>,
<9028DAABDCAE46FC9DB794E2B92D5371@Vista>
Message-ID: <COL111-W409045004573E0810B7F5C87410@phx.gbl>
I wish it could be that simple but its definitely jumping out of second, sometimes under load and sometimes coasting. the shifting isn't great but I don't think that's the problem either. Maybe I'm just a pessimist??
Ben
*************
My Books Lily & Me, and The Royal Navy & Me, are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs, HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> From: vmitps at netspace.net.au
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2010 12:05:12 +1100
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] RoveAmerica 2010 Pictures
>
> Check the mounts first.
> Then the shifter - does it put it in to 2nd properly.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Frederick Ben Rodgers" <irishrover1 at live.com>
> To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Sent: Monday, October 25, 2010 9:57 AM
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] RoveAmerica 2010 Pictures
>
>
> >
> > Hi Rover Guru's
> > I have discovered a serious problem with my latest
> > purchase a 1961 Rover P4-100, it jumps out of second gear. I have no
> > problem with taking the gear box out but I have never attempted to
> > repair/replace synchros/gears etc in a Rover box. I did a few BMC's many
> > years ago. My question, is it a difficult task and should I perhaps look
> > for another gear box. Will a series one or two Land Rovers fit. if I
> > decide to try and rebuild are the parts available?. Any advice would be
> > appreciated. Its ironic that just a month before I bought this car I
> > parted with a good P4-100 box for the cost of shipping. Oh well!!!! that's
> > life!!!!
> > Cheers Ben (irishrover)
> >
> > *************
> > My Books Lily & Me, and The Royal Navy & Me, are now available as
> > E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> > Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs, HMS Ganges,
> > Royal Navy?
> > then
> > Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL:
> > <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20101024/d330d28a/attachment.html>
> > To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> > sure to scroll down the whole page.
> > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
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From vmitps at netspace.net.au Mon Oct 25 05:54:16 2010
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2010 21:54:16 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet ] RoveAmerica 2010 Pictures
In-Reply-To: <COL111-W409045004573E0810B7F5C87410@phx.gbl>
References: <405091.37097.qm@web34304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>, ,
<59F16C36-3EB5-4904-B19A-1345B529A073@alumni.bates.edu>, ,
<C4DBE0FF92B9480595682200DF5DFD4B@testinst44469c>,
<COL111-W3E3C64ACEDAB02DF5682487400@phx.gbl>,
<9028DAABDCAE46FC9DB794E2B92D5371@Vista>
<COL111-W409045004573E0810B7F5C87410@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <3F87309262AF4EAA94C4EF52F323E360@Vista>
Mine shifted fine.
Long throw fore and aft, narrow across.
Where is the lever when it is in 2nd?
Is it right down on the half-ball support?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frederick Ben Rodgers" <irishrover1 at live.com>
To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Monday, October 25, 2010 9:10 PM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] RoveAmerica 2010 Pictures
>
> I wish it could be that simple but its definitely jumping out of second,
> sometimes under load and sometimes coasting. the shifting isn't great but
> I don't think that's the problem either. Maybe I'm just a pessimist??
> Ben
>
> *************
> My Books Lily & Me, and The Royal Navy & Me, are now available as
> E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs, HMS Ganges,
> Royal Navy?
> then
> Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
>
>
>
>
>> From: vmitps at netspace.net.au
>> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2010 12:05:12 +1100
>> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] RoveAmerica 2010 Pictures
>>
>> Check the mounts first.
>> Then the shifter - does it put it in to 2nd properly.
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Frederick Ben Rodgers" <irishrover1 at live.com>
>> To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
>> Sent: Monday, October 25, 2010 9:57 AM
>> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] RoveAmerica 2010 Pictures
>>
>>
>> >
>> > Hi Rover Guru's
>> > I have discovered a serious problem with my latest
>> > purchase a 1961 Rover P4-100, it jumps out of second gear. I have no
>> > problem with taking the gear box out but I have never attempted to
>> > repair/replace synchros/gears etc in a Rover box. I did a few BMC's
>> > many
>> > years ago. My question, is it a difficult task and should I perhaps
>> > look
>> > for another gear box. Will a series one or two Land Rovers fit. if I
>> > decide to try and rebuild are the parts available?. Any advice would be
>> > appreciated. Its ironic that just a month before I bought this car I
>> > parted with a good P4-100 box for the cost of shipping. Oh well!!!!
>> > that's
>> > life!!!!
>> > Cheers Ben (irishrover)
>> >
>> > *************
>> > My Books Lily & Me, and The Royal Navy & Me, are now available as
>> > E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
>> > Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs, HMS
>> > Ganges,
>> > Royal Navy?
>> > then
>> > Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > -------------- next part --------------
>> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> > URL:
>> > <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20101024/d330d28a/attachment.html>
>> > To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page.
>> > Be
>> > sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>
>>
>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
>> sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
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> URL:
> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20101025/0593705f/attachment.html>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
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From lingfield51 at btinternet.com Mon Oct 25 05:56:40 2010
From: lingfield51 at btinternet.com (Juliet Keiler)
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2010 11:56:40 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [Rovernet ] RoveAmerica 2010 Pictures
In-Reply-To: <COL111-W409045004573E0810B7F5C87410@phx.gbl>
References: <405091.37097.qm@web34304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>, ,
<59F16C36-3EB5-4904-B19A-1345B529A073@alumni.bates.edu>, ,
<C4DBE0FF92B9480595682200DF5DFD4B@testinst44469c>,
<COL111-W3E3C64ACEDAB02DF5682487400@phx.gbl>,
<9028DAABDCAE46FC9DB794E2B92D5371@Vista>
<COL111-W409045004573E0810B7F5C87410@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <476347.1229.qm@web86002.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
Ben,
Series Land Rover boxes won't fit, however many of the internal bites like
bearings, seals syncros etc are common to both vehicles. If you have a parts
book you could try www.johncraddockltd.co.uk to check for any suppersessions and
availability. That is if Craddoock lists it your local Land Rover dealer may be
able to get it he will also have the S/S For example 239160 3dr/4th syncro cone
becomes FRC 1758 on the Craddock site.
Have a look see how you get on. as to jumping out of gear I'm guessing a bearing
may have enough movement in it or the teeth are kn*ckered!
All the best
Alan (partviking)
________________________________
From: Frederick Ben Rodgers <irishrover1 at live.com>
To: "rovernet at rovernet.ca" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Monday, 25 October, 2010 11:10:09
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] RoveAmerica 2010 Pictures
I wish it could be that simple but its definitely jumping out of second,
sometimes under load and sometimes coasting. the shifting isn't great but I
don't think that's the problem either. Maybe I'm just a pessimist??
Ben
*************
My Books Lily & Me, and The Royal Navy & Me, are now available as E-Books.
Go to www.smashwords.com
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs, HMS Ganges, Royal
Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> From: vmitps at netspace.net.au
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2010 12:05:12 +1100
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] RoveAmerica 2010 Pictures
>
> Check the mounts first.
> Then the shifter - does it put it in to 2nd properly.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Frederick Ben Rodgers" <irishrover1 at live.com>
> To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Sent: Monday, October 25, 2010 9:57 AM
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] RoveAmerica 2010 Pictures
>
>
> >
> > Hi Rover Guru's
> > I have discovered a serious problem with my latest
> > purchase a 1961 Rover P4-100, it jumps out of second gear. I have no
> > problem with taking the gear box out but I have never attempted to
> > repair/replace synchros/gears etc in a Rover box. I did a few BMC's many
> > years ago. My question, is it a difficult task and should I perhaps look
> > for another gear box. Will a series one or two Land Rovers fit. if I
> > decide to try and rebuild are the parts available?. Any advice would be
> > appreciated. Its ironic that just a month before I bought this car I
> > parted with a good P4-100 box for the cost of shipping. Oh well!!!! that's
> > life!!!!
> > Cheers Ben (irishrover)
> >
> > *************
> > My Books Lily & Me, and The Royal Navy & Me, are now available as
> > E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> > Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs, HMS Ganges,
> > Royal Navy?
> > then
> > Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL:
> >
><http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20101024/d330d28a/attachment.html>
>
> > To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> > sure to scroll down the whole page.
> > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure
>to scroll down the whole page.
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From den at aachenkennels.com Mon Oct 25 09:11:31 2010
From: den at aachenkennels.com (Dennis Gallacher)
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2010 22:11:31 +0800
Subject: [Rovernet ] 1937 Rover P2 steering wheel.
References: <405091.37097.qm@web34304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>, ,
<59F16C36-3EB5-4904-B19A-1345B529A073@alumni.bates.edu>, ,
<C4DBE0FF92B9480595682200DF5DFD4B@testinst44469c>,
<COL111-W3E3C64ACEDAB02DF5682487400@phx.gbl>,
<9028DAABDCAE46FC9DB794E2B92D5371@Vista>
<COL111-W409045004573E0810B7F5C87410@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160DAEF5@Server.adoptsec.local>
Hello All,
I have a friend down here in Oz who is restoring a 37 Rover P2 and is in
need of a steering wheel. Unlike other P2 this year has a unique style
of wheel one that has a deep-dish shape to the steering boss.
If you have one or would like photos of the knackered one send a
private email to den at aachenkennels.com. Doesn't matter the condition as
I can get them refurbished.
Den Gallacher
From irishrover1 at live.com Mon Oct 25 09:02:06 2010
From: irishrover1 at live.com (Frederick Ben Rodgers)
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2010 12:02:06 -0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] RoveAmerica 2010 Pictures
In-Reply-To: <3F87309262AF4EAA94C4EF52F323E360@Vista>
References: <405091.37097.qm@web34304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>,
,,<59F16C36-3EB5-4904-B19A-1345B529A073@alumni.bates.edu>,
, , <C4DBE0FF92B9480595682200DF5DFD4B@testinst44469c>, ,
<COL111-W3E3C64ACEDAB02DF5682487400@phx.gbl>, ,
<9028DAABDCAE46FC9DB794E2B92D5371@Vista>,
<COL111-W409045004573E0810B7F5C87410@phx.gbl>,
<3F87309262AF4EAA94C4EF52F323E360@Vista>
Message-ID: <COL111-W11F9AECEB226B8C4D0790B87410@phx.gbl>
You may well be correct, I have some difficulty going from third down to second. I also have difficulty finding first often ending up in reverse. The shifting is not due to a lack of competence more a problem of the gear change linkage. I tightened the set bolt (finger tight) to the pivot seat for now, it was quite loose. That did improve the shifting slightly. I think this winter I will strip the whole shift linkage and see what is going on there. How tight should the set bolt be??
Cheers Ben (irishrover)
*************
My Books Lily & Me, and The Royal Navy & Me, are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs, HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> From: vmitps at netspace.net.au
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2010 21:54:16 +1100
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] RoveAmerica 2010 Pictures
>
> Mine shifted fine.
> Long throw fore and aft, narrow across.
> Where is the lever when it is in 2nd?
> Is it right down on the half-ball support?
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Frederick Ben Rodgers" <irishrover1 at live.com>
> To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Sent: Monday, October 25, 2010 9:10 PM
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] RoveAmerica 2010 Pictures
>
>
> >
> > I wish it could be that simple but its definitely jumping out of second,
> > sometimes under load and sometimes coasting. the shifting isn't great but
> > I don't think that's the problem either. Maybe I'm just a pessimist??
> > Ben
> >
> > *************
> > My Books Lily & Me, and The Royal Navy & Me, are now available as
> > E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> > Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs, HMS Ganges,
> > Royal Navy?
> > then
> > Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >> From: vmitps at netspace.net.au
> >> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> >> Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2010 12:05:12 +1100
> >> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] RoveAmerica 2010 Pictures
> >>
> >> Check the mounts first.
> >> Then the shifter - does it put it in to 2nd properly.
> >>
> >>
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: "Frederick Ben Rodgers" <irishrover1 at live.com>
> >> To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> >> Sent: Monday, October 25, 2010 9:57 AM
> >> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] RoveAmerica 2010 Pictures
> >>
> >>
> >> >
> >> > Hi Rover Guru's
> >> > I have discovered a serious problem with my latest
> >> > purchase a 1961 Rover P4-100, it jumps out of second gear. I have no
> >> > problem with taking the gear box out but I have never attempted to
> >> > repair/replace synchros/gears etc in a Rover box. I did a few BMC's
> >> > many
> >> > years ago. My question, is it a difficult task and should I perhaps
> >> > look
> >> > for another gear box. Will a series one or two Land Rovers fit. if I
> >> > decide to try and rebuild are the parts available?. Any advice would be
> >> > appreciated. Its ironic that just a month before I bought this car I
> >> > parted with a good P4-100 box for the cost of shipping. Oh well!!!!
> >> > that's
> >> > life!!!!
> >> > Cheers Ben (irishrover)
> >> >
> >> > *************
> >> > My Books Lily & Me, and The Royal Navy & Me, are now available as
> >> > E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> >> > Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs, HMS
> >> > Ganges,
> >> > Royal Navy?
> >> > then
> >> > Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > -------------- next part --------------
> >> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> >> > URL:
> >> > <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20101024/d330d28a/attachment.html>
> >> > To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page.
> >> > Be
> >> > sure to scroll down the whole page.
> >> > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> >>
> >>
> >> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> >> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> >> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> >
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL:
> > <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20101025/0593705f/attachment.html>
> > To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> > sure to scroll down the whole page.
> > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
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From gyfrancis at adam.com.au Tue Oct 26 19:38:24 2010
From: gyfrancis at adam.com.au (Grant Francis)
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2010 11:08:24 +1030
Subject: [Rovernet ] P3 75 6light 1948
Message-ID: <4CC77480.7090003@adam.com.au>
Morning,
I am new to this list, having just had a P3 "6 light" 75 turn up at my
house on a trailer. It came from the country from an friend. I had no
idea he had one, as he usually has Jaguars, like me.
I am in Adelaide Stralia, have a weird sense of humour, 42 years with
Jaguar does that I reckon. Some are offended by it, bad luck, life's too
short to worry about it.
He pulled the front panels off the thing to remove the water pump, and
recore the radiator etc, some 5 years ago. Prior to this he was driving
it around.
He has asked me to re-wire the car, the mice have have made a meal of
the insulation.
Also he wants the engine tidied up, water pump replaced, radiator etc
all put back, but, he forgets where/how all the frame work sits/mounts
etc. I know its not rocket science, but that rather large metal "bow"
looking frame (about 3ft wide), that the radiator sits into has me
stumped. There are no apparent holes in the chassis for it to bolt to.
So my thoughts are that it is mounted to the side panels (which I do not
have at the moment) and forms the basis for the front wing supports????.
I have established which way around it goes, hole for the radiator
drain, and cut out for the lower hose make it simple enough.
I have searched for pictures/diagrams, but basically only get completed
cars which unfortunately do not show the area I want/need.
Any suggestions taken on board, if not, no panic, I will work it out. It
is only a car after all the "warm and fuzzy" wear off.
Thanks in advance
Grant Francis
Adelaide
South Stralia.
From scottsoldautorubber at bigpond.com.au Tue Oct 26 19:46:53 2010
From: scottsoldautorubber at bigpond.com.au (Scott Richmond)
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2010 11:46:53 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet ] P3 75 6light 1948
References: <4CC77480.7090003@adam.com.au>
Message-ID: <26566B8CE8914BD49679CCB1E2A1DE3A@userpc>
I can send picture from parts manual if you like.
Thankyou,
Scott.
Closed this Saturday, Sunday, Monday and Tuesday for Cup weekend.
New email address: scott at scottsoldautorubber.com.au
New postal address: P.O. Box 105, Mount Waverley 3149
www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au
Open 9 - 5.00 Monday to Friday.
Closed Saturday and Sunday.
Automotive Rubber and Seals for Many Makes and Models,
12 Haughton Road, Oakleigh, Melbourne 3166, Australia.
Phone and Fax: + 61- 3 - 9563 3023
http://www.xe.net/pca/ (Currency Converter)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Grant Francis" <gyfrancis at adam.com.au>
To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, October 27, 2010 11:38 AM
Subject: [Rovernet ] P3 75 6light 1948
> Morning,
>
> I am new to this list, having just had a P3 "6 light" 75 turn up at my
> house on a trailer. It came from the country from an friend. I had no idea
> he had one, as he usually has Jaguars, like me.
>
> I am in Adelaide Stralia, have a weird sense of humour, 42 years with
> Jaguar does that I reckon. Some are offended by it, bad luck, life's too
> short to worry about it.
>
> He pulled the front panels off the thing to remove the water pump, and
> recore the radiator etc, some 5 years ago. Prior to this he was driving it
> around.
>
> He has asked me to re-wire the car, the mice have have made a meal of the
> insulation.
>
> Also he wants the engine tidied up, water pump replaced, radiator etc all
> put back, but, he forgets where/how all the frame work sits/mounts etc. I
> know its not rocket science, but that rather large metal "bow" looking
> frame (about 3ft wide), that the radiator sits into has me stumped. There
> are no apparent holes in the chassis for it to bolt to. So my thoughts are
> that it is mounted to the side panels (which I do not have at the moment)
> and forms the basis for the front wing supports????. I have established
> which way around it goes, hole for the radiator drain, and cut out for the
> lower hose make it simple enough.
>
> I have searched for pictures/diagrams, but basically only get completed
> cars which unfortunately do not show the area I want/need.
>
> Any suggestions taken on board, if not, no panic, I will work it out. It
> is only a car after all the "warm and fuzzy" wear off.
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Grant Francis
> Adelaide
> South Stralia.
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>
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From scottsoldautorubber at bigpond.com.au Tue Oct 26 19:53:04 2010
From: scottsoldautorubber at bigpond.com.au (Scott Richmond)
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2010 11:53:04 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet ] P3 75 6light 1948
References: <4CC77480.7090003@adam.com.au>
Message-ID: <F4D40B0AEE2E4749A6D04C3A2AAA695A@userpc>
Sorry, forgot I already had it on our web site, here is the link,
http://www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au/p3frame.gif
click on it to blow it up.
Thankyou,
Scott.
Closed this Saturday, Sunday, Monday and Tuesday for Cup weekend.
New email address: scott at scottsoldautorubber.com.au
New postal address: P.O. Box 105, Mount Waverley 3149
www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au
Open 9 - 5.00 Monday to Friday.
Closed Saturday and Sunday.
Automotive Rubber and Seals for Many Makes and Models,
12 Haughton Road, Oakleigh, Melbourne 3166, Australia.
Phone and Fax: + 61- 3 - 9563 3023
http://www.xe.net/pca/ (Currency Converter)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Grant Francis" <gyfrancis at adam.com.au>
To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, October 27, 2010 11:38 AM
Subject: [Rovernet ] P3 75 6light 1948
> Morning,
>
> I am new to this list, having just had a P3 "6 light" 75 turn up at my
> house on a trailer. It came from the country from an friend. I had no idea
> he had one, as he usually has Jaguars, like me.
>
> I am in Adelaide Stralia, have a weird sense of humour, 42 years with
> Jaguar does that I reckon. Some are offended by it, bad luck, life's too
> short to worry about it.
>
> He pulled the front panels off the thing to remove the water pump, and
> recore the radiator etc, some 5 years ago. Prior to this he was driving it
> around.
>
> He has asked me to re-wire the car, the mice have have made a meal of the
> insulation.
>
> Also he wants the engine tidied up, water pump replaced, radiator etc all
> put back, but, he forgets where/how all the frame work sits/mounts etc. I
> know its not rocket science, but that rather large metal "bow" looking
> frame (about 3ft wide), that the radiator sits into has me stumped. There
> are no apparent holes in the chassis for it to bolt to. So my thoughts are
> that it is mounted to the side panels (which I do not have at the moment)
> and forms the basis for the front wing supports????. I have established
> which way around it goes, hole for the radiator drain, and cut out for the
> lower hose make it simple enough.
>
> I have searched for pictures/diagrams, but basically only get completed
> cars which unfortunately do not show the area I want/need.
>
> Any suggestions taken on board, if not, no panic, I will work it out. It
> is only a car after all the "warm and fuzzy" wear off.
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Grant Francis
> Adelaide
> South Stralia.
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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From den at aachenkennels.com Tue Oct 26 21:33:31 2010
From: den at aachenkennels.com (Dennis Gallacher)
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2010 10:33:31 +0800
Subject: [Rovernet ] P3 75 6light 1948
References: <4CC77480.7090003@adam.com.au>
Message-ID: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160DAF20@Server.adoptsec.local>
G'Day Grant,
If you send an email to den at aachenkennels.com I can put you in touch
with one of the west Ozzy rover club members in Perth. Pete has P3 for
restoration and as parts.
Den Gallacher.
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
On Behalf Of Grant Francis
Sent: Wednesday, 27 October 2010 8:38 AM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: [Rovernet ] P3 75 6light 1948
Morning,
I am new to this list, having just had a P3 "6 light" 75 turn up at my
house on a trailer. It came from the country from an friend. I had no
idea he had one, as he usually has Jaguars, like me.
I am in Adelaide Stralia, have a weird sense of humour, 42 years with
Jaguar does that I reckon. Some are offended by it, bad luck, life's too
short to worry about it.
He pulled the front panels off the thing to remove the water pump, and
recore the radiator etc, some 5 years ago. Prior to this he was driving
it around.
He has asked me to re-wire the car, the mice have have made a meal of
the insulation.
Also he wants the engine tidied up, water pump replaced, radiator etc
all put back, but, he forgets where/how all the frame work sits/mounts
etc. I know its not rocket science, but that rather large metal "bow"
looking frame (about 3ft wide), that the radiator sits into has me
stumped. There are no apparent holes in the chassis for it to bolt to.
So my thoughts are that it is mounted to the side panels (which I do not
have at the moment) and forms the basis for the front wing supports????.
I have established which way around it goes, hole for the radiator
drain, and cut out for the lower hose make it simple enough.
I have searched for pictures/diagrams, but basically only get completed
cars which unfortunately do not show the area I want/need.
Any suggestions taken on board, if not, no panic, I will work it out. It
is only a car after all the "warm and fuzzy" wear off.
Thanks in advance
Grant Francis
Adelaide
South Stralia.
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
sure to scroll down the whole page.
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From Mark.Clark at oit.edu Wed Oct 27 12:31:41 2010
From: Mark.Clark at oit.edu (Mark Clark)
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2010 10:31:41 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] It Lives!
Message-ID: <8CC32141E8BE6448B098DFE65DFC5E820261804A96@Techmail2.oit.edu>
The 1959 Rover P5 I bought last December actually moved under its own power this past Saturday. At times it seemed like the day would never come - such are the perils of buying a $600 car. While the documents I have are not entirely clear, it looks like the last time it was on the road was at least 20 years ago, so it's a wonder things worked as well as they did (no fires or major leaks).
The big surprise was that the drive train worked as well as it did. In the course of the rebuild, we drained and replaced the differential fluid, and several metal chunks came out with the old lubricant (pieces of gear teeth, we think). No noise that we could hear in operation, though, so there must still be a few teeth still in there. The automatic transmission also shifted well - we had replaced that fluid as well and it was pretty clean.
In the process of setting the timing and adjusting the carb before setting out, we discovered that the vacuum advance is not working - it will not hold a vacuum. If anyone has a spare available please let me know.
It also looks like I'll need new shocks and bushings - the ride was a bit tippy going around corners. Aside from shocks, anything else I should check that's peculiar to this model?
It's now time to move it from my friend Bill's garage where we have been doing the mechanical work to my home shop. The interior is next up for repair - the plan is to have it on the road for the Spring driving season. Wish me luck!
Mark
Dr. Mark Clark
Professor of History
Oregon Institute of Technology
Klamath Falls, Oregon, USA
From kkinard at att.net Wed Oct 27 14:23:19 2010
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2010 14:23:19 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] Missing Cylinder
In-Reply-To: <006801cb705e$df564200$0100000a@owner1b4c6f2cf>
References: <006801cb705e$df564200$0100000a@owner1b4c6f2cf>
Message-ID: <4CC87C27.5090600@att.net>
Hi Netters,
Time to report in. One should always be systematic...one thing at a
time. Bottom line: It was the distributor cap. Why didn't I find it
earlier? Lack of systematic approach. It went something like this:
Had a misfire.
Changed plugs- #8 sooted up again.
Changed cap (but did not thoroughly clean plug, so #8 continued to misfire)
Changed plug leads (but didn't clean plug well, so #8 continued to misfire)
Compression check: all even at about 90 (8.13:1 pistons and composition
gaskets)
Changed all plugs (but got in a hurry and forgot to check gap, so #8 and
several others misfired)
Changed all leads ( but didn't check plugs so misfire continued)
Pulled head and checked cam and lifters, visual check on valves, all OK.
Put engine back together, still misfired.
Oh yeah, got in too big a hurry and pulled a stud out of the block so
had to put in a Helicoil.
After 12 hours no joy. Didn't get back to the shop until after the
wedding and church anniversary.
With plenty of time and the conviction that it was ignition related, I
put everything back like it was...old plugs, cap and leads, but gap
checked and thoroughly blasted with carbide medium..no joy.
Changed cap, cleaned plugs again. RUNS GREAT. Gotta be the cap.
Look at second set of plugs I used the week before...gaps were way too
close, thus weak spark.
Got the old cap out in the sunlight...not as good as I thought it was.
Elapsed time on Monday: less than thirty minutes.
Moral of this story: Take your time, even when you're in a hurry.
On the way to work this morning, I threw a fanbelt......
Roveroveranxiously,
Kent K.
roger matheson wrote:
> Hi Kent,
> How are you going with your No 8 sooting plug problem ?
> It sounds quite curious and would be interested in what you found.
> Can't get onto Rovernet tonight for some reason
> Cheers Roger
From hbob at bellsouth.net Wed Oct 27 16:18:03 2010
From: hbob at bellsouth.net (Bob Harris)
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2010 17:18:03 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] It Lives!
In-Reply-To: <8CC32141E8BE6448B098DFE65DFC5E820261804A96@Techmail2.oit.edu>
References: <8CC32141E8BE6448B098DFE65DFC5E820261804A96@Techmail2.oit.edu>
Message-ID: <4CC8970B.7000301@bellsouth.net>
Congratulations. Gives me hope that mine will move again (it's been I
guess 10 years now).
On 10/27/2010 1:31 PM, Mark Clark wrote:
> The 1959 Rover P5 I bought last December actually moved under its own power this past Saturday. At times it seemed like the day would never come - such are the perils of buying a $600 car. While the documents I have are not entirely clear, it looks like the last time it was on the road was at least 20 years ago, so it's a wonder things worked as well as they did (no fires or major leaks).
>
> The big surprise was that the drive train worked as well as it did. In the course of the rebuild, we drained and replaced the differential fluid, and several metal chunks came out with the old lubricant (pieces of gear teeth, we think). No noise that we could hear in operation, though, so there must still be a few teeth still in there. The automatic transmission also shifted well - we had replaced that fluid as well and it was pretty clean.
>
> In the process of setting the timing and adjusting the carb before setting out, we discovered that the vacuum advance is not working - it will not hold a vacuum. If anyone has a spare available please let me know.
>
> It also looks like I'll need new shocks and bushings - the ride was a bit tippy going around corners. Aside from shocks, anything else I should check that's peculiar to this model?
>
> It's now time to move it from my friend Bill's garage where we have been doing the mechanical work to my home shop. The interior is next up for repair - the plan is to have it on the road for the Spring driving season. Wish me luck!
>
> Mark
>
> Dr. Mark Clark
> Professor of History
> Oregon Institute of Technology
> Klamath Falls, Oregon, USA
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
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From vmitps at netspace.net.au Wed Oct 27 16:41:31 2010
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Thu, 28 Oct 2010 08:41:31 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet ] Fw: the p4 100 the Irish bloke is having problems with
Message-ID: <E90B5F83A46042A7BC5F40868AA30781@Vista>
Dad's response to the 100 with 2nd gear jump:
Subject: the p4 100 the Irish bloke is having problems with
The text stipulates a problem with second gear jumping out and I see you have given him some suggestions about that, but has he checked the selector springs as the problem as he describes it can occur if the second gear spring is broken or even somewhat compressed, and that is relatively easy to fix.
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From flynp170 at cablelynx.com Wed Oct 27 18:03:00 2010
From: flynp170 at cablelynx.com (flynp170 at cablelynx.com)
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2010 16:03:00 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet ] Missing Cylinder
In-Reply-To: <4CC87C27.5090600@att.net>
References: <006801cb705e$df564200$0100000a@owner1b4c6f2cf>
<4CC87C27.5090600@att.net>
Message-ID: <51540.206.255.126.52.1288220580.squirrel@webmail.cablelynx.com>
Good news Kent. The other moral in the story is to never give up!!
Nick
Hi Netters,
> Time to report in. One should always be systematic...one thing at a
> time. Bottom line: It was the distributor cap. Why didn't I find it
> earlier? Lack of systematic approach. It went something like this:
> Had a misfire.
> Changed plugs- #8 sooted up again.
> Changed cap (but did not thoroughly clean plug, so #8 continued to
> misfire)
> Changed plug leads (but didn't clean plug well, so #8 continued to
> misfire)
> Compression check: all even at about 90 (8.13:1 pistons and composition
> gaskets)
> Changed all plugs (but got in a hurry and forgot to check gap, so #8 and
> several others misfired)
> Changed all leads ( but didn't check plugs so misfire continued)
> Pulled head and checked cam and lifters, visual check on valves, all OK.
> Put engine back together, still misfired.
> Oh yeah, got in too big a hurry and pulled a stud out of the block so
> had to put in a Helicoil.
> After 12 hours no joy. Didn't get back to the shop until after the
> wedding and church anniversary.
>
> With plenty of time and the conviction that it was ignition related, I
> put everything back like it was...old plugs, cap and leads, but gap
> checked and thoroughly blasted with carbide medium..no joy.
> Changed cap, cleaned plugs again. RUNS GREAT. Gotta be the cap.
> Look at second set of plugs I used the week before...gaps were way too
> close, thus weak spark.
> Got the old cap out in the sunlight...not as good as I thought it was.
> Elapsed time on Monday: less than thirty minutes.
> Moral of this story: Take your time, even when you're in a hurry.
>
> On the way to work this morning, I threw a fanbelt......
>
> Roveroveranxiously,
> Kent K.
>
>
> roger matheson wrote:
>> Hi Kent,
>> How are you going with your No 8 sooting plug problem ?
>> It sounds quite curious and would be interested in what you found.
>> Can't get onto Rovernet tonight for some reason
>> Cheers Roger
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
From vmitps at netspace.net.au Wed Oct 27 18:19:52 2010
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Thu, 28 Oct 2010 10:19:52 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet ] Missing Cylinder
In-Reply-To: <51540.206.255.126.52.1288220580.squirrel@webmail.cablelynx.com>
References: <006801cb705e$df564200$0100000a@owner1b4c6f2cf><4CC87C27.5090600@att.net>
<51540.206.255.126.52.1288220580.squirrel@webmail.cablelynx.com>
Message-ID: <56779F47D66E4B0CBF772E7545F9E244@Vista>
>From the title I was expecting a writeup of the 2.5 litre 5 cylinder that
Rover made.
----- Original Message -----
From: <flynp170 at cablelynx.com>
To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Thursday, October 28, 2010 10:03 AM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Missing Cylinder
> Good news Kent. The other moral in the story is to never give up!!
> Nick
>
>
> Hi Netters,
>> Time to report in. One should always be systematic...one thing at a
>> time. Bottom line: It was the distributor cap. Why didn't I find it
>> earlier? Lack of systematic approach. It went something like this:
>> Had a misfire.
>> Changed plugs- #8 sooted up again.
>> Changed cap (but did not thoroughly clean plug, so #8 continued to
>> misfire)
>> Changed plug leads (but didn't clean plug well, so #8 continued to
>> misfire)
>> Compression check: all even at about 90 (8.13:1 pistons and composition
>> gaskets)
>> Changed all plugs (but got in a hurry and forgot to check gap, so #8 and
>> several others misfired)
>> Changed all leads ( but didn't check plugs so misfire continued)
>> Pulled head and checked cam and lifters, visual check on valves, all OK.
>> Put engine back together, still misfired.
>> Oh yeah, got in too big a hurry and pulled a stud out of the block so
>> had to put in a Helicoil.
>> After 12 hours no joy. Didn't get back to the shop until after the
>> wedding and church anniversary.
>>
>> With plenty of time and the conviction that it was ignition related, I
>> put everything back like it was...old plugs, cap and leads, but gap
>> checked and thoroughly blasted with carbide medium..no joy.
>> Changed cap, cleaned plugs again. RUNS GREAT. Gotta be the cap.
>> Look at second set of plugs I used the week before...gaps were way too
>> close, thus weak spark.
>> Got the old cap out in the sunlight...not as good as I thought it was.
>> Elapsed time on Monday: less than thirty minutes.
>> Moral of this story: Take your time, even when you're in a hurry.
>>
>> On the way to work this morning, I threw a fanbelt......
>>
>> Roveroveranxiously,
>> Kent K.
>>
>>
>> roger matheson wrote:
>>> Hi Kent,
>>> How are you going with your No 8 sooting plug problem ?
>>> It sounds quite curious and would be interested in what you found.
>>> Can't get onto Rovernet tonight for some reason
>>> Cheers Roger
>>
>>
>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
>> sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From veetwinrider at yahoo.com Wed Oct 27 19:08:58 2010
From: veetwinrider at yahoo.com (roland)
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2010 17:08:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet ] It Lives!
In-Reply-To: <8CC32141E8BE6448B098DFE65DFC5E820261804A96@Techmail2.oit.edu>
Message-ID: <439112.14805.qm@web180502.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Congrats, quite and achievement considering it had been sitting so long. Nothing like getting a sleeping car awake. Well done.
?
roland
?
A couple of "sleeping" vehicles.
--- On Wed, 10/27/10, Mark Clark <Mark.Clark at oit.edu> wrote:
From: Mark Clark <Mark.Clark at oit.edu>
Subject: [Rovernet ] It Lives!
To: "rovernet at rovernet.ca" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Date: Wednesday, October 27, 2010, 10:31 AM
The 1959 Rover P5 I bought last December actually moved under its own power this past Saturday.? At times it seemed like the day would never come - such are the perils of buying a $600 car.? While the documents I have are not entirely clear, it looks like the last time it was on the road was at least 20 years ago, so it's a wonder things worked as well as they did? (no fires or major leaks).?
The big surprise was that the drive train worked as well as it did.? In the course of the rebuild, we drained and replaced the differential fluid, and several metal chunks came out with the old lubricant (pieces of gear teeth, we think).? No noise that we could hear in operation, though, so there must still be a few teeth still in there.? The automatic transmission also shifted well - we had replaced that fluid as well and it was pretty clean.
In the process of setting the timing and adjusting the carb before setting out, we discovered that the vacuum advance is not working - it will not hold a vacuum.? If anyone has a spare available please let me know.
It also looks like I'll need new shocks and bushings - the ride was a bit tippy going around corners.? Aside from shocks, anything else I should check that's peculiar to this model?
It's now time to move it from my friend Bill's garage where we have been doing the mechanical work to my home shop.? The interior is next up for repair - the plan is to have it on the road for the Spring driving season.? Wish me luck!
Mark
Dr. Mark Clark
Professor of History
Oregon Institute of Technology
Klamath Falls, Oregon, USA
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
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From slatskars at comcast.net Thu Oct 28 00:49:04 2010
From: slatskars at comcast.net (slatskars at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 28 Oct 2010 05:49:04 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rovernet ] It Lives!
In-Reply-To: <4CC8970B.7000301@bellsouth.net>
Message-ID: <641499478.471451.1288244944449.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Mark,
Congratulations. Now if I could only get to mine!
On your vacuum advance unit. Contact Jeff at advanceddistributors.com. He will rebuild the unit for about $30, which is much less than a new one if you could find the proper one. You might consider having the entire distributor rebuilt by Jeff. In my conversations with him, he really does seem to know what he is doing. And the prices are very reasonable.
Slats
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Harris" <hbob at bellsouth.net>
To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, October 27, 2010 2:18:03 PM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] It Lives!
Congratulations. ?Gives me hope that mine will move again (it's been I
guess 10 years now).
On 10/27/2010 1:31 PM, Mark Clark wrote:
> The 1959 Rover P5 I bought last December actually moved under its own power this past Saturday. ?At times it seemed like the day would never come - such are the perils of buying a $600 car. ?While the documents I have are not entirely clear, it looks like the last time it was on the road was at least 20 years ago, so it's a wonder things worked as well as they did ?(no fires or major leaks).
>
> The big surprise was that the drive train worked as well as it did. ?In the course of the rebuild, we drained and replaced the differential fluid, and several metal chunks came out with the old lubricant (pieces of gear teeth, we think). ?No noise that we could hear in operation, though, so there must still be a few teeth still in there. ?The automatic transmission also shifted well - we had replaced that fluid as well and it was pretty clean.
>
> In the process of setting the timing and adjusting the carb before setting out, we discovered that the vacuum advance is not working - it will not hold a vacuum. ?If anyone has a spare available please let me know.
>
> It also looks like I'll need new shocks and bushings - the ride was a bit tippy going around corners. ?Aside from shocks, anything else I should check that's peculiar to this model?
>
> It's now time to move it from my friend Bill's garage where we have been doing the mechanical work to my home shop. ?The interior is next up for repair - the plan is to have it on the road for the Spring driving season. ?Wish me luck!
>
> Mark
>
> Dr. Mark Clark
> Professor of History
> Oregon Institute of Technology
> Klamath Falls, Oregon, USA
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
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From slatskars at comcast.net Thu Oct 28 00:57:04 2010
From: slatskars at comcast.net (slatskars at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 28 Oct 2010 05:57:04 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rovernet ] Missing Cylinder
In-Reply-To: <4CC87C27.5090600@att.net>
Message-ID: <1772942489.471603.1288245424773.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Great Kent.
Glad that you found it. All of your effort reminds me of the difficulty I had in July with a bad rotor on my 74 MGB. I went through many hours of trouble shooting trying to nail that one. The spark was actully leaking through the plastic composition of the rotor. Like you I was away from my shop and did not have the tools that I needed on hand. The answer is so simple, when you finally get it.
Oh, I meant to tell you that when I was following your TR-8 with that overpowered Chevy Aveo, I had that poor thing up to 6,500 RPM at one point. It was a game little beast, but I was disappointed in the mileage, 24 MPG.
Slats
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kent Kinard" <kkinard at att.net>
To: "roger matheson" <roger.matheson at bigpond.com>, "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, October 27, 2010 12:23:19 PM
Subject: [Rovernet ] Missing Cylinder
Hi Netters,
Time to report in. ?One should always be systematic...one thing at a
time. ?Bottom line: ?It was the distributor cap. ?Why didn't I find it
earlier? Lack of systematic approach. ?It went something like this:
Had a misfire.
Changed plugs- #8 sooted up again.
Changed cap (but did not thoroughly clean plug, so #8 continued to misfire)
Changed plug leads (but didn't clean plug well, so #8 continued to misfire)
Compression check: all even at about 90 (8.13:1 pistons and composition
gaskets)
Changed all plugs (but got in a hurry and forgot to check gap, so #8 and
several others misfired)
Changed all leads ( but didn't check plugs so misfire continued)
Pulled head and checked cam and lifters, visual check on valves, all OK.
Put engine back together, still misfired.
Oh yeah, got in too big a hurry and pulled a stud out of the block so
had to put in a Helicoil.
After 12 hours no joy. ?Didn't get back to the shop until after the
wedding and church anniversary.
With plenty of time and the conviction that it was ignition related, I
put everything back like it was...old plugs, cap and leads, but gap
checked and thoroughly blasted with carbide medium..no joy.
Changed cap, cleaned plugs again. ?RUNS GREAT. Gotta be the cap.
Look at second set of plugs I used the week before...gaps were way too
close, thus weak spark.
Got the old cap out in the sunlight...not as good as I thought it was. ?
Elapsed time on Monday: less than thirty minutes.
Moral of this story: ?Take your time, even when you're in a hurry.
On the way to work this morning, I threw a fanbelt......
Roveroveranxiously,
Kent K.
roger matheson wrote:
> Hi Kent,
> How are you going with your No 8 sooting plug problem ?
> It sounds quite curious and would be interested in what you found.
> Can't get onto Rovernet tonight for some reason
> Cheers Roger
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
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From irishrover1 at live.com Thu Oct 28 04:57:04 2010
From: irishrover1 at live.com (Frederick Ben Rodgers)
Date: Thu, 28 Oct 2010 07:57:04 -0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] Fw: the p4 100 the Irish bloke is having problems
with
In-Reply-To: <E90B5F83A46042A7BC5F40868AA30781@Vista>
References: <E90B5F83A46042A7BC5F40868AA30781@Vista>
Message-ID: <COL111-W10E58C01935D35210E374D87440@phx.gbl>
That's a very good suggestion,I wasn't aware of these springs but I see them in the manual. It does indeed appear to be an easy enough fix if this is the problem. I'll keep my fingers crossed! I haven't started to strip anything yet, weather is still nice and I might get a few more runs before putting away for the winter. I have one other question, I can't find any reference in the manual to the tighness of the set bolt to the pivot seat of the gear lever??? Thanks for all the help.
Cheers Ben (irishrover)
*************
My Books Lily & Me, and The Royal Navy & Me, are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs, HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> From: vmitps at netspace.net.au
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Thu, 28 Oct 2010 08:41:31 +1100
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Fw: the p4 100 the Irish bloke is having problems with
>
> Dad's response to the 100 with 2nd gear jump:
>
> Subject: the p4 100 the Irish bloke is having problems with
>
>
> The text stipulates a problem with second gear jumping out and I see you have given him some suggestions about that, but has he checked the selector springs as the problem as he describes it can occur if the second gear spring is broken or even somewhat compressed, and that is relatively easy to fix.
> -------------- next part --------------
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> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
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From vmitps at netspace.net.au Thu Oct 28 05:32:12 2010
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Thu, 28 Oct 2010 21:32:12 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet ] Fw: the p4 100 the Irish bloke is having problems
with
In-Reply-To: <COL111-W10E58C01935D35210E374D87440@phx.gbl>
References: <E90B5F83A46042A7BC5F40868AA30781@Vista>
<COL111-W10E58C01935D35210E374D87440@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <348B3A99CC574B63B99013F34E85358A@Vista>
Mine never needed adjusting, so I do not know what it is.
PVS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frederick Ben Rodgers" <irishrover1 at live.com>
To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Thursday, October 28, 2010 8:57 PM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Fw: the p4 100 the Irish bloke is having problems
with
>
> That's a very good suggestion,I wasn't aware of these springs but I see
> them in the manual. It does indeed appear to be an easy enough fix if this
> is the problem. I'll keep my fingers crossed! I haven't started to strip
> anything yet, weather is still nice and I might get a few more runs before
> putting away for the winter. I have one other question, I can't find any
> reference in the manual to the tighness of the set bolt to the pivot seat
> of the gear lever??? Thanks for all the help.
> Cheers Ben (irishrover)
> *************
> My Books Lily & Me, and The Royal Navy & Me, are now available as
> E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs, HMS Ganges,
> Royal Navy?
> then
> Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
>
>
>
>
>> From: vmitps at netspace.net.au
>> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> Date: Thu, 28 Oct 2010 08:41:31 +1100
>> Subject: [Rovernet ] Fw: the p4 100 the Irish bloke is having problems
>> with
>>
>> Dad's response to the 100 with 2nd gear jump:
>>
>> Subject: the p4 100 the Irish bloke is having problems with
>>
>>
>> The text stipulates a problem with second gear jumping out and I see you
>> have given him some suggestions about that, but has he checked the
>> selector springs as the problem as he describes it can occur if the
>> second gear spring is broken or even somewhat compressed, and that is
>> relatively easy to fix.
>> -------------- next part --------------
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>
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From kkinard at att.net Thu Oct 28 14:57:29 2010
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Thu, 28 Oct 2010 14:57:29 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] Missing Cylinder
In-Reply-To: <1772942489.471603.1288245424773.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1772942489.471603.1288245424773.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4CC9D5A9.2050309@att.net>
slatskars at comcast.net wrote:
>
>
> Oh, I meant to tell you that when I was following your TR-8 with that overpowered Chevy Aveo, I had that poor thing up to 6,500 RPM at one point. It was a game little beast, but I was disappointed in the mileage, 24 MPG.
>
>
You had to flog it too hard. You're supposed to drive it like you have
an egg between your foot and the gas pedal:-)
Roverly,
Kent K.
From slatskars at comcast.net Thu Oct 28 15:26:49 2010
From: slatskars at comcast.net (slatskars at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 28 Oct 2010 20:26:49 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rovernet ] Missing Cylinder
In-Reply-To: <4CC9D5A9.2050309@att.net>
Message-ID: <1035086470.32926.1288297609210.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Yeah, right, and keep up with you in a strange town! Not that San Antonio is strange, but it took a few days to know the roads.
Slats
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kent Kinard" <kkinard at att.net>
To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Thursday, October 28, 2010 12:57:29 PM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Missing Cylinder
slatskars at comcast.net wrote:
>
>
> Oh, I meant to tell you that when I was following your TR-8 with that overpowered Chevy Aveo, I had that poor thing up to 6,500 RPM at one point. It was a game little beast, but I was disappointed in the mileage, 24 MPG.
>
> ? ?
You had to flog it too hard. ?You're supposed to drive it like you have
an egg between your foot and the gas pedal:-)
Roverly,
Kent K.
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
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From irishrover1 at live.com Fri Oct 29 10:46:41 2010
From: irishrover1 at live.com (Frederick Ben Rodgers)
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2010 13:46:41 -0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] P4-100 Gear Box
Message-ID: <COL111-W5206E23104C13B712E5C0687450@phx.gbl>
Hi Folks
I have just finished removing the tunnel to expose the transmission and o/drive, seaching for the reason it jumps out of second gear. Now this is the car that underwent a $40,000 restoration in the US about 10 years ago and appeared in the Hemming's calendar in 2001. When I removed the tunnel I could hardly believe it. The rubber plug usually found on the top for checking the oil level wasn't there. In fact the hole had been carefully plugged and sealed with some kind of adhesive material. When the gear box oil level was last checked is any ones guess. I pulled out the dip stick to find only a hint of oil at the very tip. I'm going to check everything I can while I have the tunnel off, but It seems possible the lack of oil could have been the problem all along, I hope so. One question the manual calls for 90EP oil for trans and o/drive, I was surprised the o/drive would use such a heavy oil, it seems to me the P5 o/d used a 30w. I must assume the manual is correct????
Cheers Ben (irishrover)
*************
My Books Lily & Me, and The Royal Navy & Me, are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs, HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
-------------- next part --------------
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From vmitps at netspace.net.au Fri Oct 29 15:43:32 2010
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 07:43:32 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet ] P4-100 Gear Box
In-Reply-To: <COL111-W5206E23104C13B712E5C0687450@phx.gbl>
References: <COL111-W5206E23104C13B712E5C0687450@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <766DCC31C86E4E9B87FDFD6BB6238477@Vista>
EP was found (over time) to be corrosive to the brass bushings, so the
manual is in fact wrong.
Straight 90 works, but nowadays thinner lubes may too.
PVS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frederick Ben Rodgers" <irishrover1 at live.com>
To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Saturday, October 30, 2010 2:46 AM
Subject: [Rovernet ] P4-100 Gear Box
>
>
>
>
> Hi Folks
> I have just finished removing the tunnel to expose the
> transmission and o/drive, seaching for the reason it jumps out of second
> gear. Now this is the car that underwent a $40,000 restoration in the US
> about 10 years ago and appeared in the Hemming's calendar in 2001. When
> I removed the tunnel I could hardly believe it. The rubber plug usually
> found on the top for checking the oil level wasn't there. In fact the hole
> had been carefully plugged and sealed with some kind of adhesive material.
> When the gear box oil level was last checked is any ones guess. I pulled
> out the dip stick to find only a hint of oil at the very tip. I'm going to
> check everything I can while I have the tunnel off, but It seems possible
> the lack of oil could have been the problem all along, I hope so. One
> question the manual calls for 90EP oil for trans and o/drive, I was
> surprised the o/drive would use such a heavy oil, it seems to me the P5
> o/d used a 30w. I must assume the manual is correct????
> Cheers Ben (irishrover)
> *************
> My Books Lily & Me, and The Royal Navy & Me, are now available as
> E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs, HMS Ganges,
> Royal Navy?
> then
> Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
>
>
>
> -------------- next part --------------
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> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20101029/7d0e24ae/attachment.html>
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> sure to scroll down the whole page.
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From galmpton at shaw.ca Fri Oct 29 19:41:18 2010
From: galmpton at shaw.ca (galmpton)
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2010 17:41:18 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] Fw: 1980 SD1 parts for sale
Message-ID: <D24784DA668F4E2BA644491C7BD6599B@user789ad50f2d>
Hi All,
It is with some regret that I cannot continue with my SD1 restoration and have to sell the parts.
I have been collecting parts on ebay and other sources for a number of years. Many of the parts are new, but all are in very good to excellent condtion.
The car is completely dissasembled with a body tub that is stripped if paint and all rust repaired. The car is resgistered in my name.
Here is my ad in Used Victoria (BC Canada)
I have a partial list of parts and asking prices upon request.
http://www.usedvictoria.com/classified-ad/1980-Rover-SD1-Parts_13403012
Al Gunnarson
-------------- next part --------------
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From wb007727 at bigpond.net.au Sat Oct 30 13:11:55 2010
From: wb007727 at bigpond.net.au (Terry Broadbent)
Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 11:11:55 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] Fw: 1980 SD1 parts for sale
References: <D24784DA668F4E2BA644491C7BD6599B@user789ad50f2d>
Message-ID: <9A9032B307C342EBAE97CB4867C506D2@terrylewak5voh>
could you give me a list of parts as the site that you gave is down for
maitence.
----- Original Message -----
From: "galmpton" <galmpton at shaw.ca>
To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Friday, October 29, 2010 5:41 PM
Subject: [Rovernet ] Fw: 1980 SD1 parts for sale
>
> Hi All,
>
> It is with some regret that I cannot continue with my SD1 restoration and
> have to sell the parts.
>
> I have been collecting parts on ebay and other sources for a number of
> years. Many of the parts are new, but all are in very good to excellent
> condtion.
> The car is completely dissasembled with a body tub that is stripped if
> paint and all rust repaired. The car is resgistered in my name.
>
> Here is my ad in Used Victoria (BC Canada)
> I have a partial list of parts and asking prices upon request.
>
> http://www.usedvictoria.com/classified-ad/1980-Rover-SD1-Parts_13403012
>
> Al Gunnarson
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:
> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20101029/1ad07fb2/attachment.html>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
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--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 9.0.864 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3226 - Release Date: 10/29/10
11:34:00
From irishrover1 at live.com Sat Oct 30 08:22:20 2010
From: irishrover1 at live.com (Frederick Ben Rodgers)
Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 11:22:20 -0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] Gear Box Story Continues!!!
Message-ID: <COL111-W420129144A8C155DD6450687460@phx.gbl>
Hi Folks
The work that was done to this car never ceases to amaze me. Yesterday I removed the trans tunnel to find the only way to check or top up the gear box had been sealed. there was simply no way to add oil and of course the level was empty. Looking further today I see there is no hinge plate or spring for the reverse stop, it was never installed. No wonder I was finding reverse every time I tried to go into first.
Where can I find the correct reverse hinge and spring???? can anyone help?
Cheers Ben (irishrover)
My Books Lily & Me, and The Royal Navy & Me, are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs, HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
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From bsaunders at firstva.com Sat Oct 30 11:59:12 2010
From: bsaunders at firstva.com (Ben Saunders)
Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 12:59:12 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Gear Box Story Continues!!!
In-Reply-To: <COL111-W420129144A8C155DD6450687460@phx.gbl>
References: <COL111-W420129144A8C155DD6450687460@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <0FE863482BAD4E61AD6463FF46AD0DE4@SD1>
Any Series 2 or 2A Land Rover will have that reverse spring plate. I will
look to see if I have one and let you know.
Ben Saunders
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Frederick Ben Rodgers
Sent: Saturday, October 30, 2010 9:22 AM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: [Rovernet ] Gear Box Story Continues!!!
Hi Folks
The work that was done to this car never ceases to amaze me.
Yesterday I removed the trans tunnel to find the only way to check or top up
the gear box had been sealed. there was simply no way to add oil and of
course the level was empty. Looking further today I see there is no hinge
plate or spring for the reverse stop, it was never installed. No wonder I
was finding reverse every time I tried to go into first.
Where can I find the correct reverse hinge and spring???? can anyone help?
Cheers Ben (irishrover)
My Books Lily & Me, and The Royal Navy & Me, are now available as
E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs, HMS Ganges,
Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
-------------- next part --------------
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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 9.0.864 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3227 - Release Date: 10/30/10
02:34:00
From irishrover1 at live.com Sat Oct 30 12:27:25 2010
From: irishrover1 at live.com (Frederick Ben Rodgers)
Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 15:27:25 -0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] Gear Box Story Continues!!!
In-Reply-To: <0FE863482BAD4E61AD6463FF46AD0DE4@SD1>
References: <COL111-W420129144A8C155DD6450687460@phx.gbl>,
<0FE863482BAD4E61AD6463FF46AD0DE4@SD1>
Message-ID: <COL111-W31C99BD586C77FD3C3AA9E87460@phx.gbl>
Hi Ben
I'll keep my fingers crossed
Ben
*************
My Books Lily & Me, and The Royal Navy & Me, are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs, HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> From: bsaunders at firstva.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 12:59:12 -0400
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Gear Box Story Continues!!!
>
> Any Series 2 or 2A Land Rover will have that reverse spring plate. I will
> look to see if I have one and let you know.
>
> Ben Saunders
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
> Behalf Of Frederick Ben Rodgers
> Sent: Saturday, October 30, 2010 9:22 AM
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Gear Box Story Continues!!!
>
>
> Hi Folks
> The work that was done to this car never ceases to amaze me.
> Yesterday I removed the trans tunnel to find the only way to check or top up
> the gear box had been sealed. there was simply no way to add oil and of
> course the level was empty. Looking further today I see there is no hinge
> plate or spring for the reverse stop, it was never installed. No wonder I
> was finding reverse every time I tried to go into first.
> Where can I find the correct reverse hinge and spring???? can anyone help?
> Cheers Ben (irishrover)
>
>
> My Books Lily & Me, and The Royal Navy & Me, are now available as
> E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs, HMS Ganges,
> Royal Navy?
> then
> Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
>
>
>
> -------------- next part --------------
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> sure to scroll down the whole page.
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>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 9.0.864 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3227 - Release Date: 10/30/10
> 02:34:00
>
>
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From trowzerkoff at hotmail.com Sat Oct 30 13:36:35 2010
From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com (Richard Sharpe)
Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 18:36:35 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet ] P4-100 Gear Box
In-Reply-To: <766DCC31C86E4E9B87FDFD6BB6238477@Vista>
References: <COL111-W5206E23104C13B712E5C0687450@phx.gbl>,
<766DCC31C86E4E9B87FDFD6BB6238477@Vista>
Message-ID: <BLU157-w49608A41B9CC077225FB1BB8460@phx.gbl>
Strange! The P4 gearbox should use any good quality 20w50 engine oil - [e.g.] Castrol GTX. [This multigrade oil is also specified forgearboxes fitted to 3liter P5's and 2 litre P6's.]
> From: vmitps at netspace.net.au
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 07:43:32 +1100
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] P4-100 Gear Box
>
> EP was found (over time) to be corrosive to the brass bushings, so the
> manual is in fact wrong.
> Straight 90 works, but nowadays thinner lubes may too.
>
> PVS
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Frederick Ben Rodgers" <irishrover1 at live.com>
> To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Sent: Saturday, October 30, 2010 2:46 AM
> Subject: [Rovernet ] P4-100 Gear Box
>
>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Hi Folks
> > I have just finished removing the tunnel to expose the
> > transmission and o/drive, seaching for the reason it jumps out of second
> > gear. Now this is the car that underwent a $40,000 restoration in the US
> > about 10 years ago and appeared in the Hemming's calendar in 2001. When
> > I removed the tunnel I could hardly believe it. The rubber plug usually
> > found on the top for checking the oil level wasn't there. In fact the hole
> > had been carefully plugged and sealed with some kind of adhesive material.
> > When the gear box oil level was last checked is any ones guess. I pulled
> > out the dip stick to find only a hint of oil at the very tip. I'm going to
> > check everything I can while I have the tunnel off, but It seems possible
> > the lack of oil could have been the problem all along, I hope so. One
> > question the manual calls for 90EP oil for trans and o/drive, I was
> > surprised the o/drive would use such a heavy oil, it seems to me the P5
> > o/d used a 30w. I must assume the manual is correct????
> > Cheers Ben (irishrover)
> > *************
> > My Books Lily & Me, and The Royal Navy & Me, are now available as
> > E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> > Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs, HMS Ganges,
> > Royal Navy?
> > then
> > Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> >
> >
> >
> > -------------- next part --------------
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> > URL:
> > <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20101029/7d0e24ae/attachment.html>
> > To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> > sure to scroll down the whole page.
> > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
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From robertime at cavtel.net Sat Oct 30 13:51:59 2010
From: robertime at cavtel.net (ROBERT HEIMERL)
Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 14:51:59 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Fw: 1980 SD1 parts for sale
In-Reply-To: <D24784DA668F4E2BA644491C7BD6599B@user789ad50f2d>
References: <D24784DA668F4E2BA644491C7BD6599B@user789ad50f2d>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimn6EmOSDM3Fzb6+++euRAw8gP3t2=a6z7dRcwH@mail.gmail.com>
Hi Mr. Gunnarson,
As I have a couple of these SD1's, I'd be interested in receiving a list of
parts and price -- particularly for the struts and Boge Nivomats.
Unfortunately their weight may be an issue for shipping them all the way
here from Victoria!
Sorry you won't be able to complete your restoration project. I believe
we've spoken in the past, correct?
Thanks,
Robert Heimerl
Arlington, VA
On Fri, Oct 29, 2010 at 8:41 PM, galmpton <galmpton at shaw.ca> wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> It is with some regret that I cannot continue with my SD1 restoration and
> have to sell the parts.
>
> I have been collecting parts on ebay and other sources for a number of
> years. Many of the parts are new, but all are in very good to excellent
> condtion.
> The car is completely dissasembled with a body tub that is stripped if
> paint and all rust repaired. The car is resgistered in my name.
>
> Here is my ad in Used Victoria (BC Canada)
> I have a partial list of parts and asking prices upon request.
>
> http://www.usedvictoria.com/classified-ad/1980-Rover-SD1-Parts_13403012
>
> Al Gunnarson
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20101029/1ad07fb2/attachment.html
> >
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> sure to scroll down the whole page.
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>
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From galmpton at shaw.ca Sat Oct 30 20:06:30 2010
From: galmpton at shaw.ca (galmpton)
Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 18:06:30 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] Fw: 1980 SD1 parts for sale
References: <D24784DA668F4E2BA644491C7BD6599B@user789ad50f2d>
<AANLkTimn6EmOSDM3Fzb6+++euRAw8gP3t2=a6z7dRcwH@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8DF22F0189344190817347D0EE69DD03@user789ad50f2d>
Hi Robert,
I believe we have spoken, or emailed.
There is a local fellow who is coming to see the car on Saturday and is
interested in purchasing it as a package.
He may not want all of the parts. If not, I can get a shipping estimate for
what you are interested in.
Also, I can send pictures before you committed to purchase.
In the meantime, here is a list of many of the parts available.
Let me know what you might be interested in.
Al
----- Original Message -----
From: "ROBERT HEIMERL" <robertime at cavtel.net>
To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Saturday, October 30, 2010 11:51 AM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Fw: 1980 SD1 parts for sale
> Hi Mr. Gunnarson,
>
> As I have a couple of these SD1's, I'd be interested in receiving a list
> of
> parts and price -- particularly for the struts and Boge Nivomats.
> Unfortunately their weight may be an issue for shipping them all the way
> here from Victoria!
>
> Sorry you won't be able to complete your restoration project. I believe
> we've spoken in the past, correct?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Robert Heimerl
> Arlington, VA
> On Fri, Oct 29, 2010 at 8:41 PM, galmpton <galmpton at shaw.ca> wrote:
>
>>
>> Hi All,
>>
>> It is with some regret that I cannot continue with my SD1 restoration and
>> have to sell the parts.
>>
>> I have been collecting parts on ebay and other sources for a number of
>> years. Many of the parts are new, but all are in very good to excellent
>> condtion.
>> The car is completely dissasembled with a body tub that is stripped if
>> paint and all rust repaired. The car is resgistered in my name.
>>
>> Here is my ad in Used Victoria (BC Canada)
>> I have a partial list of parts and asking prices upon request.
>>
>> http://www.usedvictoria.com/classified-ad/1980-Rover-SD1-Parts_13403012
>>
>> Al Gunnarson
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From p6rovers at yahoo.com Sun Oct 31 15:45:20 2010
From: p6rovers at yahoo.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2010 13:45:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet ] Ben's gearbox part needed
Message-ID: <823378.32006.qm@web34306.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message sent on behalf of Ben Rodgers.
The message was too big?for the server as it contained 2 pictures as
attachments.
Here's what Ben wanted to say:
"I hope this parts page copy goes through okay. This is the part I need 'hinge
plate for reverse stop' Can anyone help.
???????????????????? Cheers Ben (irishrover)"
Here's where the parts page is located:
http://www.roverclub.ca/Bens-gearbox-part-req.jpg
Eric
?"Always look on the bright side of life."... Life of Brian, 1979;
"I'm not dead yet!" ..... Monty Python and the Holy Grail, 1975
From carstuff3 at gmail.com Sun Oct 31 16:00:15 2010
From: carstuff3 at gmail.com (Gordon Harrower)
Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2010 17:00:15 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Ben's gearbox part needed
In-Reply-To: <823378.32006.qm@web34306.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <823378.32006.qm@web34306.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTin2k57v6BL__O_m_0nCD_4V1iENBXnnV=OaMqdi@mail.gmail.com>
Got it! It's from the gearbox you sent me, so fair is fair. Send me your
address, and I'll mail it tomorrow.
Gordon.
On Sun, Oct 31, 2010 at 4:45 PM, Eric Russell <p6rovers at yahoo.com> wrote:
> Message sent on behalf of Ben Rodgers.
> The message was too big for the server as it contained 2 pictures as
> attachments.
>
> Here's what Ben wanted to say:
> "I hope this parts page copy goes through okay. This is the part I need
> 'hinge
> plate for reverse stop' Can anyone help.
> Cheers Ben (irishrover)"
>
> Here's where the parts page is located:
> http://www.roverclub.ca/Bens-gearbox-part-req.jpg
>
> Eric
>
> "Always look on the bright side of life."... Life of Brian, 1979;
> "I'm not dead yet!" ..... Monty Python and the Holy Grail, 1975
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
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From irishrover1 at live.com Sun Oct 31 16:33:00 2010
From: irishrover1 at live.com (Frederick Ben Rodgers)
Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2010 19:33:00 -0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] Ben's gearbox part needed
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTin2k57v6BL__O_m_0nCD_4V1iENBXnnV=OaMqdi@mail.gmail.com>
References: <823378.32006.qm@web34306.mail.mud.yahoo.com>,
<AANLkTin2k57v6BL__O_m_0nCD_4V1iENBXnnV=OaMqdi@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <COL111-W2E6B06D4B802F35C79A4B87470@phx.gbl>
Hi Gordon
That's great news and is really appreciated. make sure you let me know the cost of mailing. My address is Frederick Rodgers. 1053 Hwy 224 RR#10 Charlottetown. PE. CIE 1Z4/
Thanks Ben
*************
My Books Lily & Me, and The Royal Navy & Me, are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs, HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2010 17:00:15 -0400
> From: carstuff3 at gmail.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Ben's gearbox part needed
>
> Got it! It's from the gearbox you sent me, so fair is fair. Send me your
> address, and I'll mail it tomorrow.
>
> Gordon.
>
> On Sun, Oct 31, 2010 at 4:45 PM, Eric Russell <p6rovers at yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> > Message sent on behalf of Ben Rodgers.
> > The message was too big for the server as it contained 2 pictures as
> > attachments.
> >
> > Here's what Ben wanted to say:
> > "I hope this parts page copy goes through okay. This is the part I need
> > 'hinge
> > plate for reverse stop' Can anyone help.
> > Cheers Ben (irishrover)"
> >
> > Here's where the parts page is located:
> > http://www.roverclub.ca/Bens-gearbox-part-req.jpg
> >
> > Eric
> >
> > "Always look on the bright side of life."... Life of Brian, 1979;
> > "I'm not dead yet!" ..... Monty Python and the Holy Grail, 1975
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> > sure to scroll down the whole page.
> > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> >
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