[ROVERNET - UK] 2000TC gaskets, tailpipe

Vern Klukas vern at inkspotco.com
Mon Aug 30 18:02:30 BST 2004


On a TC, the exhaust gaskets consist of 4 round copper rings. Easy 
and cheap to ship anywhere. The intake gaskets (there are two) can 
often be saved, depending on how much gasket goo the last installer 
used. If you feel up to making your own, I can send you a full size 
template for the intake gasket, all you need is some thin gasket 
stock (1/64 pref, 1/32 likely to be what you can find).

A word of warning, drain the coolant before you remove the intake 
manifold, otherwise you will fill a cylinder or two with coolant. 
Also note that the exhaust manifold bolts are fine thread, even 
though they attach to an aluminum head. Finally, unless someone has 
modified the bracket attached to the steering box that the throttle 
shaft runs through to allow the rubber bushing to slip out, you will 
have to remove the bracket. Otherwise you will break the plastic 
universal joint that hides under the carbs and is a pain to replace 
(after you get a new one that is).

Briefly, the sequence would be:
Drain the coolant.

Remove the aircleaner.

Remove the heater pipe on top of the intake manifold by removing the 
two screws, rear spacer and slacking the hose clamps.

Disconnect throttle balljoint and unfasten steering box bracket (or 
slip the bush out)

Disconnect fuel line to front carb, and on later models, fuel return 
line at the heater box.

Disconnect servo vacuum hose and vacuum advance hose at carb, remove 
the centre valve cover nut and position the hoses out of the way.

On HS carbs, disconnect choke cables. On HD carbs, it is possible to 
leave the choke connected if you just rest the intake and carbs on 
the engine while doing the rest of the job.

Remove the 6 nuts and locks attaching the intake to the head and 
remove the intake and carbs, set aside. Take care not to foul the 
throttle shaft attached to the previously mentioned plastic 
universal. If you want, disconnect the HD choke cable.

Disconnect the header at the exhaust pipe.

Remove the 8 bolts attaching the header to the head, slacking them 
evenly as the header flange is usually somewhat warped (of no 
concern, BTW).

Remove the header from the top of the car.

Assembly is the reverse, of course. If you are going to use some kind 
of gasket goo, I strongly suggest you find some Hylomar. Simply 
marvelous stuff, and it at least gives you a chance to reuse a gasket 
during later disassembly.

A 1/2" universal joint socket and a long extension will make removing 
the manifold much easier. The frontmost nut and the two centre nuts 
are the troublesome.

Can't really advise on the exhaust components, but finding a local 
source will be much cheaper than buying from the UK (I presume you 
aren't in the UK)

BTW, it is possible to detach the exhaust manifold without removing 
the intake, the rub is it is then impossible to remove! Been there, 
tried that. It is not necessary to disturb anything else though to do 
the job.


Yours
Vern

>In trying to get a new exhaust manifold on the P6, it looks like the 
>engine has to be lifed and the intalke manifold as
>well.  Where is my best source and getting the intake & exhaust 
>gaskets ... and it looks like I need the rear sections of the
>tailpipe, muffler&resonator.  Any help?  Thanks, Norm
>
>--
>"The web has got me caught.  I'd rather have the blues than what 
>I've got."  <via Nat King Cole>
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>rovernet mailing list
>rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
>To unsubscribe, go to this web page, look near the bottom and follow 
>instructions:
>http://mailman.nipltd.com/mailman/listinfo/rovernet


-- 
Vern Klukas                             I'm a little . . .
Inkspot Type & Design
vern at inkspotco.com



More information about the rovernet mailing list