[ROVERNET - UK] 2000TC gaskets, tailpipe
Vern Klukas
vern at inkspotco.com
Mon Aug 30 18:02:30 BST 2004
On a TC, the exhaust gaskets consist of 4 round copper rings. Easy
and cheap to ship anywhere. The intake gaskets (there are two) can
often be saved, depending on how much gasket goo the last installer
used. If you feel up to making your own, I can send you a full size
template for the intake gasket, all you need is some thin gasket
stock (1/64 pref, 1/32 likely to be what you can find).
A word of warning, drain the coolant before you remove the intake
manifold, otherwise you will fill a cylinder or two with coolant.
Also note that the exhaust manifold bolts are fine thread, even
though they attach to an aluminum head. Finally, unless someone has
modified the bracket attached to the steering box that the throttle
shaft runs through to allow the rubber bushing to slip out, you will
have to remove the bracket. Otherwise you will break the plastic
universal joint that hides under the carbs and is a pain to replace
(after you get a new one that is).
Briefly, the sequence would be:
Drain the coolant.
Remove the aircleaner.
Remove the heater pipe on top of the intake manifold by removing the
two screws, rear spacer and slacking the hose clamps.
Disconnect throttle balljoint and unfasten steering box bracket (or
slip the bush out)
Disconnect fuel line to front carb, and on later models, fuel return
line at the heater box.
Disconnect servo vacuum hose and vacuum advance hose at carb, remove
the centre valve cover nut and position the hoses out of the way.
On HS carbs, disconnect choke cables. On HD carbs, it is possible to
leave the choke connected if you just rest the intake and carbs on
the engine while doing the rest of the job.
Remove the 6 nuts and locks attaching the intake to the head and
remove the intake and carbs, set aside. Take care not to foul the
throttle shaft attached to the previously mentioned plastic
universal. If you want, disconnect the HD choke cable.
Disconnect the header at the exhaust pipe.
Remove the 8 bolts attaching the header to the head, slacking them
evenly as the header flange is usually somewhat warped (of no
concern, BTW).
Remove the header from the top of the car.
Assembly is the reverse, of course. If you are going to use some kind
of gasket goo, I strongly suggest you find some Hylomar. Simply
marvelous stuff, and it at least gives you a chance to reuse a gasket
during later disassembly.
A 1/2" universal joint socket and a long extension will make removing
the manifold much easier. The frontmost nut and the two centre nuts
are the troublesome.
Can't really advise on the exhaust components, but finding a local
source will be much cheaper than buying from the UK (I presume you
aren't in the UK)
BTW, it is possible to detach the exhaust manifold without removing
the intake, the rub is it is then impossible to remove! Been there,
tried that. It is not necessary to disturb anything else though to do
the job.
Yours
Vern
>In trying to get a new exhaust manifold on the P6, it looks like the
>engine has to be lifed and the intalke manifold as
>well. Where is my best source and getting the intake & exhaust
>gaskets ... and it looks like I need the rear sections of the
>tailpipe, muffler&resonator. Any help? Thanks, Norm
>
>--
>"The web has got me caught. I'd rather have the blues than what
>I've got." <via Nat King Cole>
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--
Vern Klukas I'm a little . . .
Inkspot Type & Design
vern at inkspotco.com
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