[ROVERNET - UK] more 3500S brake questions

rogerdm at iprimus.com.au rogerdm at iprimus.com.au
Mon Apr 4 00:22:51 BST 2005

Hi Peter,

My wet monday morning thoughts (I read rovernet email before anything else).
 if one brake hose has failed then it may be prudent to change them all given
that they are likely to be of the same age, and the front ones have a far
harder life than the rear ones. There is only one blead screw on the rear
brakes petrol filler side.  If you can bleed fluid but only one calliper
works then either the piston has seized or (more likely)the auto ajustment
has failed and the movement of the piston does not end up moving the pads.
 Regretably that means removing the calliper.  For the brakes to work properly
and release with the engine off but bind with the engine running, then the
fault is in the booster and is unlikely to be in the master cylinder that
you have rebuilt or the fail/brake light switch.  Do you think the car may
have had excessively old or contaminated fluid or problems with dirt/water
entering the booster in the past before your kind soul entered its life?
 On the grounds of safety, might it not be beter to get an exchange booster,
replace all the hoses (especially between the rear callipers) and put kits
in all the callipers.  Again the task of removing two rear callipers is not
twice as long as removing one and may result in a beter job.  You might also
replace the brake light switch that in my experience becomes unresponsive
with age. 

Lets us know how things go

cheers roger  

        >-- Original Message --
>To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
>From: peter king <peter at king-co.com>
>Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2005 15:27:32 -0400
>Subject: [ROVERNET - UK] more 3500S brake questions
>Reply-To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
>Hi all.
>Many thanks to all who have made suggestions re: my brake problems.
>As it turns out, the right rear brake line was about to burst, with a 
>big fat bulge in it (thanks for that suggestion, Bill D.), so I 
>replaced it with a spare I had.  I get no braking action from the left 
>rear, but can bleed fluid there. That side brake line looks pretty new.

>So I'm suspecting the caliper is bad on that side. However, I've now 
>discovered that all three working calipers are binding after braking. 
>they bind, then after a while relax. The odd thing is that they only 
>bind when the car is running. If I roll down the driveway with the 
>engine off, they don't bind. I'm wondering if this suggests the problem

>is in the servo/slave binding up, or if I could have a problem with my 
>recent master cylinder rebuild? Or if this may have something to do 
>with the brake failure switch at the 5-way junction. Ruth Burgess 
>described its function to me the other day, but I don't know if it 
>would serve to prevent fluid from backing off and releasing the 
>calipers for some reason?
>When I first depress the brake pedal, I get full action, as if the 
>servo is working. When I let up and depress the pedal again, I get a 
>hard pedal at the top of the stroke--very little movement.
>Any thoughts?
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