Katherine Cuba katemike at charter.net
Sat Feb 26 17:12:38 GMT 2005


Thank you for your frequent postings to Rovernet.  I have learned a lot just 
from reading your messages.  I have a couple of questions about my 1958 
Rover P4 105S that you might be able to help me with.

When I got it, the servo/brake booster had been removed by one of the 
preivious owners.  I've done a lot of work with TR6's and MGB's and had been 
wondering if it was possible to plumb in a servo or master from one of those 
or something similar.  Your note below on the SD1 made me curious to know if 
something can be done for the P4 without the expense and shipping of 
sourcing an original from the UK.  Since mine is the only one I know of 
within a 1000 miles of St. Louis, I'm not too worried about officionados 
crying that it is not historically accurate.

Also, have you developed an air conditioning system that could be fitted to 
the P4?  that would be the height of luxury on a hot Missouri afternoon.

Thanks in advance,

Michael Mason

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "James Dean" <jaguru at bellsouth.net>
To: <lacpsyd at earthlink.net>; <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 05, 2005 12:24 PM
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] A slow death

> Lance-Several common sense things to check, before adding extra fans, etc.
> Do you have a thermostat, and is it correct? American thermostats often 
> fit
> British cars, but may not be exactly correct-little things like a weep 
> hole,
> etc-Someone else may have more knowledge than I on exact detailsAlso, in
> that era, it was common to use a 190degree for fast heater warmup in
> Northern winters, and 165 in hot summers, or Florida where I am.What is in
> the car? If it has no thermostat, coolant will move too fast, and not be
> fully cooled.The other item no one ever suspects, until they add fans, oil
> coolers, etc; is the fan clutch. Spin it when the engine is cold, and 
> again
> when the engine is hot. If there is no resistance either time, replace the
> fan clutch . I may have some, contact me
>        . AlsoRegarding 3500S; I am presently making up a new set of AC
> hoses, sourcing a rotary compressor, and the adapter bracket between new
> compressor and the original york bracket, as well as r-134 seals, . a new
> drier,etc. If anyone wants to upgrade their AC system,or needs parts 
> contact
> me; rather than re-inventing the wheel yourself. I also just put together 
> a
> boot evaporator system., and have a correct in dash evaporator for P5.
>           For SD1 owners-A tip:Master cylinders and boosters have been
> unavailable, or worth more than the car. On my SD-1, I used a TR7 master
> cylinder. I can supply these rebuilt, which is cheaper than new.The brake
> lines go in the other side, but you can move them around, to reach., and
> fittings are the sameFor a booster, I used a Triumph TR6., but the studs 
> to
> mount the master cylinder are off by90 degrees. I have a rebuilder who
> rebuilds them for me, and rotates the housing 90 degrees, so it all bolts
> together nicely. Again, contact me if you need one.
>             I have been putting some of my Rare Rover parts on my ebay
> store, with photos, though most seem to go to Europe, as Americans seem to
> generally ignore or miss the opportunity.Please browse around the ebay
> store, as there are some rare things. The P5 AC evaporator is there with a
> photos, as well as a photo of a rare Factory option P5B unit Go to ebay 
> home
> page, log onto ebay stores, Then"Old English Motor Company"  James Dean, 
> Ft.
> Lauderdale.(ebay name for my auctions-"jaguru"Original Message -----
> From: "Lance La Certe" <lacpsyd at earthlink.net>
> To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
> Sent: Saturday, February 05, 2005 10:25 AM
> Subject: [ROVERNET - UK] A slow death
>> Hi All!,
>> Need help with a perplexing problem.  '70 P6B 3500S.  Recently had
>> carburetors de-varnished, synchronized, etc.   The mechanic also rerouted
>> the fuel line away from the engine block because of concerns with
>> vaporizing the fuel.  Cobbled back together my old carburetor 'cozies' to
>> also help with heat issues-------regardless of all this work, when stuck
> in
>> slow moving traffic and the temperature gauge increases past dead center
>> (ever so slightly, and it never gets past the green and into the 'red
>> zone'), the car begins a slow death relative to a lower and lower idle.
> If
>> I have the chance to get on the highway and get some airflow going it
>> automatically lowers the operating temperature, and then it idles
>> perfectly.
>> In the 15 years I have owned the car, this has never been a problem until
>> recently.  I know several Rovenetters have installed electric fans to 
>> help
>> the radiator, but I'd like to know if there are any other 'fixes' and any
>> explanations for what is happening.
>> Thanks in advance for any help.
>> Lance La Certe
>> lacpsyd at earthlink.net
>> Why Wait?  Move to EarthLink.
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