[ROVERNET - UK] P6- roof insulation - thanks- and a questionabout roof mastic

James Dean jaguru at bellsouth.net
Tue Jan 4 14:04:24 GMT 2005

For your headliner insulation, You should use 3M8090 trim adhesive, which is
heavy duty, not 8080, which is cheaper, and fine for carpets.It is a Spray
can, used by trim shops for headliners andvinyl tops.You have to keep
shaking it, and the nozzles clog, so save the old nozzles in a can of
lacquer thinner. Regarding insulation, you need something better than
aluminum foil. I use and sell for under carpets and lower areas, a sound
foam material, called lead foam, that blocks sound, but it is 1/2 inch
thick. It is amazing stuff, with closed cell fire resistant foam(unlike old
jute which is like gunpowder), a layer of silver mylar on one side, and
powdered lead encapsulated in the center. It is designed for large motor
yachts, where the owner's stateroom is separated from an engine room by a
bulkhead, but sound is simply unacceptable.I can only supply 1/2 inch, but
you may find something similar used in aircraft, that is thinner. You cut
and fit it, glue it with the 8090, and use mylar tape on the seams.I have
used the 1/2 inch for a decade, to Block heat in Austin Healeys, and in most
of my high end restorations. There I put a half sheet inside the
transmission tunnel, and a sheet over the rear axle area, as in a TR6 or
MGBGtT, to stop axle noise.It is designed to stop noise, but works equally
well on heat.Sorry to  sound commercial,which upsets people, but my email is
jaguru at bellsouth.net, and I am glad to advise anyone, and do share my
professional restoration tips. James Dean, Ft. Lauderdale
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Peter Mitchell" <peterm at arach.net.au>
To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2005 7:48 AM
Subject: RE: [ROVERNET - UK] P6- roof insulation - thanks- and a
questionabout roof mastic

> Thanks Vern Peter and Eric for your kind advice re the space for
> in the roof of my P6.
> I'll follow your thinking and cut the new insulation so as to leave space
> for the canopy bows.  that way the existing insulation will be all that is
> taking up space, hence no change from before.
> I have yet to visit an automotive parts retail shop, but I'll be needing a
> suitable black mastic or similar for when I put the new roof on.  Can
> members please suggest a brand name?
> Many thanks
> Peter Mitchell
> Perth Western Australia
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at lyris.ccdata.com
> [mailto:rovernet-bounces at lyris.ccdata.com]On Behalf Of Vern Klukas
> Sent: Tuesday, 4 January 2005 4:08 AM
> To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
> Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] P6- roof insulation query
> Peter:
> I agree with Eric , there really isn't much room so his between the
> bows approach will work best i think.
> If you live in the sun and you are looking for heat control, a layer
> of heavy aluminum foil, most polished side towards the roof and spot
> glued in a few places, will save you a couple of degrees inside the
> car in the blazing sun, and slow the time it will take to warm up
> sitting closed in the sun.
> Yours
> Vern
> >Peter,
> >The metal headling arches press so firmly against the
> >roof insulaton that it leaves permanent grooves.  The
> >metal tabs on the roof frame have self-tapping screw
> >holes that barely line up when you re. and re. roof
> >lining at the best of times.
> >
> >If you want to increase insulation why don't you keep
> >the original lining on the roof (perhaps Contact
> >Cement it in a few places to keep it from falling.
> >Then, acquire insulation pieces to glue onto the
> >existing insulation but between the marks where the
> >roof arches want to fit.
> >
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