[ROVERNET - UK] 3500s head compatibility
Kent Kinard
kkinard at swbell.net
Sat Feb 18 05:34:36 GMT 2006
Hi Peter (and anyone else contemplating a rebuild of a P6B engine)
You can have the heads for the cost of shipping. I will never use them
since I prefer the later two types, but it will be at least three weeks
before I can ship.
General suggestions:
Use an SD1 block or have the early block and crank machined to take the
SD1 type rear crank seal. There are similar lip type seals available to
convert the P6B front cover. I have done this on Buick 300 V8 covers.
Use 9.35:1 pistons and run regular unleaded gas. Install the cam
bearings as per Des Hammill's instructions ( I'll send them to you you
if you don't want to buy the book)and oil restrictors in the passage
that feeds the rocker shafts. This has been common Buick V6 practice
for twenty years and it makes using a larger oil pump unnecessary on the
street. But,there can be NO wear in the oil pump cavity or on the gears.
Use the later Range Rover Cam (to '95). It has the same lift and
duration as the P6B cam but is slightly advanced. Use a true roller
timing set. Install hardened valve seats.
Don't even think about using a block until you have checked the main
caps for fretting. If you can lift off the main caps with the bolts out
they probably aren't properly registering in the block and the block is
therefore junk. After you are sure the main caps still register
properly in the block make your final assembly using studs instead of
bolts.
There has been a lot of discussion about head bolts, studs and stretch
bolts. Torquing steel bolts into aluminum castings invites stripped or
pulled threads. I use studs on the heads and studs are a must on
two-bolt mains. Milodon makes head studs, main studs and true roller
timing sets.
I've pontificated enough.
Roverly,
Kent K.
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