[ROVERNET - UK] 3500s head compatibility

Kent Kinard kkinard at swbell.net
Sat Feb 18 05:34:36 GMT 2006

Hi Peter (and anyone else contemplating a rebuild of a P6B engine)

You can have the heads for the cost of shipping.  I will never use them 
since I prefer the later two types, but it will be at least three weeks 
before I can ship.

General suggestions:
Use an SD1 block or have the early block and crank machined to take the 
SD1 type rear crank seal.  There are similar lip type seals available to 
convert the P6B front cover.  I have done this on Buick 300 V8 covers.
Use 9.35:1 pistons and run regular unleaded gas.  Install the cam 
bearings as per Des Hammill's instructions ( I'll send them to you you 
if you don't want to buy the book)and oil restrictors in the passage 
that feeds the rocker shafts.  This has been common Buick V6 practice 
for twenty years and it makes using a larger oil pump unnecessary on the 
street.  But,there can be NO wear in the oil pump cavity or on the gears.

Use the later Range Rover Cam (to '95).  It has the same lift and 
duration as the P6B cam but is slightly advanced. Use a true roller 
timing set.  Install hardened valve seats.

Don't even think about using a block until you have checked the main 
caps for fretting.  If you can lift off the main caps with the bolts out 
they probably aren't properly registering in the block and the block is 
therefore junk.  After you are sure the main caps still register 
properly in the block make your final assembly using studs instead of 

There has been a lot of discussion about head bolts, studs and stretch 
bolts.  Torquing steel bolts into aluminum castings invites stripped or 
pulled threads.  I use studs on the heads and studs are a must on 
two-bolt mains. Milodon makes head studs, main studs and true roller 
timing sets.

I've pontificated enough.

Kent K.

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