[ROVERNET - UK] 3500s head compatibility
kkinard at swbell.net
Sat Feb 18 15:14:27 GMT 2006
I took a closer look. These aren't Olds heads at all. They are
probably Rover, but the pictures of the combustion chambers are not
clear enough to tell if they are Rover or Buick. So ignore everything I
said.....as far as these heads go.
James Dean wrote:
> Kent,I respect your knowledge, as always, and have a head question. I
> have a set of heads for sale on my eBay store, item# 4537403229, that I
> thought were 215 Buick. Someone just informed me they were 219 Olds; I
> believe F-85, so I changed the description. He told me they will bolt
> ontoa 215 Buick, a Rover 3.5, 4.2, 3.9, 4.0, or 4.6; but it will result
> in a loss of performance. Could you enlighten me further? I like to keep
> my ebay descriptions accurate.
> Also, you were right with your comment my P5B parts car probably
> was the last one left with original factory air. I sold the system , and
> on removal, found the evaporator was made by Smith's. I did photograph
> it, in case anyone needs a reference; though I only had the body, no
> engine . James Dean
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kent Kinard" <kkinard at swbell.net>
> To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
> Sent: Friday, February 17, 2006 9:34 PM
> Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] 3500s head compatibility
>> Hi Peter (and anyone else contemplating a rebuild of a P6B engine)
>> You can have the heads for the cost of shipping. I will never use
>> them since I prefer the later two types, but it will be at least three
>> weeks before I can ship.
>> General suggestions:
>> Use an SD1 block or have the early block and crank machined to take
>> the SD1 type rear crank seal. There are similar lip type seals
>> available to convert the P6B front cover. I have done this on Buick
>> 300 V8 covers.
>> Use 9.35:1 pistons and run regular unleaded gas. Install the cam
>> bearings as per Des Hammill's instructions ( I'll send them to you you
>> if you don't want to buy the book)and oil restrictors in the passage
>> that feeds the rocker shafts. This has been common Buick V6 practice
>> for twenty years and it makes using a larger oil pump unnecessary on
>> the street. But,there can be NO wear in the oil pump cavity or on the
>> Use the later Range Rover Cam (to '95). It has the same lift and
>> duration as the P6B cam but is slightly advanced. Use a true roller
>> timing set. Install hardened valve seats.
>> Don't even think about using a block until you have checked the main
>> caps for fretting. If you can lift off the main caps with the bolts
>> out they probably aren't properly registering in the block and the
>> block is therefore junk. After you are sure the main caps still
>> register properly in the block make your final assembly using studs
>> instead of bolts.
>> There has been a lot of discussion about head bolts, studs and stretch
>> bolts. Torquing steel bolts into aluminum castings invites stripped
>> or pulled threads. I use studs on the heads and studs are a must on
>> two-bolt mains. Milodon makes head studs, main studs and true roller
>> timing sets.
>> I've pontificated enough.
>> Kent K.
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