[ROVERNET - UK] 3500s head compatibility
peter at king-co.com
Sat Feb 18 15:25:24 GMT 2006
I'm using an SD1 block. What is the benefit of the newer type heads?
On Feb 18, 2006, at 12:34 AM, Kent Kinard wrote:
> Hi Peter (and anyone else contemplating a rebuild of a P6B engine)
> You can have the heads for the cost of shipping. I will never use
> them since I prefer the later two types, but it will be at least
> three weeks before I can ship.
> General suggestions:
> Use an SD1 block or have the early block and crank machined to take
> the SD1 type rear crank seal. There are similar lip type seals
> available to convert the P6B front cover. I have done this on
> Buick 300 V8 covers.
> Use 9.35:1 pistons and run regular unleaded gas. Install the cam
> bearings as per Des Hammill's instructions ( I'll send them to you
> you if you don't want to buy the book)and oil restrictors in the
> passage that feeds the rocker shafts. This has been common Buick
> V6 practice for twenty years and it makes using a larger oil pump
> unnecessary on the street. But,there can be NO wear in the oil
> pump cavity or on the gears.
> Use the later Range Rover Cam (to '95). It has the same lift and
> duration as the P6B cam but is slightly advanced. Use a true roller
> timing set. Install hardened valve seats.
> Don't even think about using a block until you have checked the
> main caps for fretting. If you can lift off the main caps with the
> bolts out they probably aren't properly registering in the block
> and the block is therefore junk. After you are sure the main caps
> still register properly in the block make your final assembly using
> studs instead of bolts.
> There has been a lot of discussion about head bolts, studs and
> stretch bolts. Torquing steel bolts into aluminum castings invites
> stripped or pulled threads. I use studs on the heads and studs are
> a must on two-bolt mains. Milodon makes head studs, main studs and
> true roller timing sets.
> I've pontificated enough.
> Kent K.
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