[ROVERNET - UK] P6 repaint ideas

Dirk Burrowes dirk at vy-tek.com
Wed Jan 18 06:41:33 GMT 2006


Hi all and Hi George,

I too have a Glen Wilson 3500s. I purchased it through a fine gentleman down
south who stole it from me when I was negotiating with Glen.

Anyway I have just finished a TC 2000 repaint and have some advice.

1) Remove sill's clean undercoat etc.

2) Remove door rubber and window rubber including wind shield and rear
shield. 

3) Strip boot and bonnet to bare metal and use a reactive primer to
neutralize the aluminum.

4) Remove wings and rear deck but don't remove front no need.

5) Remove bumpers and supports.

After removal of these parts clean under areas and wire brush etc. then in
any area you have surface rust treat with a rust converter and prime with a
good primer with a rust inhibitor. Re coat with a rubber based undercoat.

For the wings, clean inside and out and sand blast if necessary the inside
lower sections prime and undercoat. Then paint with the finish color in jam
areas and trim areas and re install.

Bonnet and boot strip to bear metal PERIOD!!!! Treat with a reactive primer
to neutralize the aluminum. Paint inside and trim edges where the bonnet
meets the wings. Re install

Rear deck, Clean and repaint back side and mating edges SAVE!!!!! Rear
window gasket aftermarket ones are awful and if yours is remotely good you
will want to reuse. You should remove this prior to painting and reinstall
later. Email later I found a fantastic rubber rejuvenator that really works
to restore the true black look. 

Doors, Buy the precut outer window rubbers NOT the uncut ones they are
awful. If there is no rust under them then you can save time and use a razor
Blade and cut them back to the seam. This will allow you to paint under
them. If they are really good the remove them and save them. You can then
install new ones WITHOUT taking out the stainless frame.
You will take off the door cards anyway for paint. Also remove the outer
handles and door locks DON'T try and mask these!

Don't let the painter get lazy and not paint the door jams.
This really is the right finishing touch. BUT rust builds under the door
treads and gasket so remove these and treat any surface rust.


Misc. You can prep a relatively rust free car in a good weekend of work and
make it difficult for a body shop to do a bad job. DON'T let the body shop
do the removal or the refit of the parts they just won't do it right no
matter what they tell you. Besides as you go you can replace hardware with
stainless and make the fit of panels just right. I like to paint a car
together so this is why I suggest that you pull parts paint trim areas etc.
This ensures a professional look and the paint will look better on the
outside if done all at once. Mask the dash board yourself. Painters tend to
get lazy and let overspray get on everything. Same goes for engine. You
should also remove the seats and carpets.

The paint, I prefer and I think you will too to use a 2 stage process.
I suggest a base coat and a clear coat with a wet sand and buff at each
stage. You will get a deep gloss and better protection and an easy fix in
the future. MAKE sure they compound out the finish at the clear coat stage
This will make all the difference. Unless you really hate the color try to
stay with the same one so the areas you may not need or want to paint will
match. Take some time to really clean the engine area. Buy a new decal kit
And paint this your self using semi gloss auto paint. You can use a pry bomb
if you clean and sand the areas you intend to paint but prime first.
DON'T use a gloss paint in the engine area or you will regret it.

Last thing write out in order what you want your body shop to do
Get them to agree and then check in along the way

So Far I have used this primary method and redone a P4, P6 and have P5 going
to paint shortly and a P3 after that.

Hope my rambling makes sense. Send me an email off line if you want my
number or any detailed advice or need some part locating.

Best to all
Dirk
P3,P4,P5,P6

PS to all still planning a Rover meet will update all soon on ideas that
have been talked about

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at lyris.ccdata.com
[mailto:rovernet-bounces at lyris.ccdata.com] On Behalf Of
rovernet-request at lyris.ccdata.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 4:58 PM
To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
Subject: rovernet Digest, Vol 38, Issue 16

Send rovernet mailing list submissions to
	rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
	http://mailman.nipltd.com/mailman/listinfo/rovernet
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
	rovernet-request at lyris.ccdata.com

You can reach the person managing the list at
	rovernet-owner at lyris.ccdata.com

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of rovernet digest..."


[ROVERNET-UK]

Today's Topics:

   1.  P6 Painting Pointers (George Phelps)
   2. Re:  P6 Painting Pointers (Brooks)
   3.  Re: P6 Bonnet (Stephen JC Beer)
   4. Re:  P6 Painting Pointers (James Dean)
   5. Re:  Re: P6 Bonnet (Pjemail at aol.com)
   6. Re:  Re: P6 Bonnet (Eric Russell)
   7. Re:  Re: P6 Bonnet (Mark Brown)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 04:58:47 -0800 (PST)
From: George Phelps <mrpink703 at yahoo.com>
Subject: [ROVERNET - UK] P6 Painting Pointers
To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
Message-ID: <20060117125847.52508.qmail at web52608.mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

Hello to all. I am now the proud new owner of Glen
Wilson's 3500S, and his parts car as well. Thanks
Glen! 

Car questions:
I am first looking for advice on painting. It seems
there are two ways to proceed, getting it painted
whole or panel by panel. This second option is
appealing to me as the panels are pretty much removed
already, and as I plan to put the vinyl stuff on the
roof, I don't need to worry about removing that. (if
anyone has done the vinyl I would be interested in
that info too). Anyway, taking the car in in bits just
seems a more interesting way to go than to take the
car into a shop whole. 

I would appreciate any thoughts on how best to proceed
and what I might expect to pay for a decent (not show
but not crap) job. I would also be happy to hear of
any good experiences with painters in the mid
Atlantic. 

I also hope to replace the hood scooped 3500 hood with
a plain one from a 2000.  Has anyone in a warmer clime
done this, I am a little concerned about heat issues.

List questions:  
1)  Where would I get ideas on why I can't seem to
post to the list from my other the email address, but
can post from this one?  
2) Also, is there some way to search the entire
archives of this list, I can only seem to get parts of
it at a time. I have a feeling I am going to be asking
many, many questions, that have been asked before. 

Thanks everybody 
George
p6_rover "at" yahoo "dot" com

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 



------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 11:11:57 -0400
From: "Brooks" <restore at nbnet.nb.ca>
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] P6 Painting Pointers
To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Message-ID: <000e01c61b78$6346af00$0100a8c0 at DENNIS>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
	reply-type=original

Congrats on your new acquisition !! I have done my P6B's using both methods 
you described...I strongly suggest you paint the inside of the removed 
panels (since they are off already) in order to protect the metal from rust 
and then put them back on the car to be painted in one step. I say this 
because it's much harder to get the very same results on individual 
panels...it can be done but it's not really worth the concerns.
 I have done several vinyl tops and it is not a simple task (at least to get

a professional result) . Your local upholstery shop should have all the 
products required (or be able to order them) to do the job, just be certain 
to use the proper adhesive and don't skimp on how much you apply. You 
probally already know that you just can't use any type of vinyl...it must be

UV resistant. It should be installed in a very warm place and bring a friend

to help you fit it onto the car.
 The hood shoud interchange (I've never done that myself) but I know the 
scoops are there for a very valid reason especially in warmer 
climates...additional cooling..so I would expect that could cause your 
engine to run a bit hotter than intended...perhaps not enough to be a valid 
concern but if you are planning to do much city driving it would be worth 
consideration.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "George Phelps" <mrpink703 at yahoo.com>
To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 8:58 AM
Subject: [ROVERNET - UK] P6 Painting Pointers


> Hello to all. I am now the proud new owner of Glen
> Wilson's 3500S, and his parts car as well. Thanks
> Glen!
>
> Car questions:
> I am first looking for advice on painting. It seems
> there are two ways to proceed, getting it painted
> whole or panel by panel. This second option is
> appealing to me as the panels are pretty much removed
> already, and as I plan to put the vinyl stuff on the
> roof, I don't need to worry about removing that. (if
> anyone has done the vinyl I would be interested in
> that info too). Anyway, taking the car in in bits just
> seems a more interesting way to go than to take the
> car into a shop whole.
>
> I would appreciate any thoughts on how best to proceed
> and what I might expect to pay for a decent (not show
> but not crap) job. I would also be happy to hear of
> any good experiences with painters in the mid
> Atlantic.
>
> I also hope to replace the hood scooped 3500 hood with
> a plain one from a 2000.  Has anyone in a warmer clime
> done this, I am a little concerned about heat issues.
>
> List questions:
> 1)  Where would I get ideas on why I can't seem to
> post to the list from my other the email address, but
> can post from this one?
> 2) Also, is there some way to search the entire
> archives of this list, I can only seem to get parts of
> it at a time. I have a feeling I am going to be asking
> many, many questions, that have been asked before.
>
> Thanks everybody
> George
> p6_rover "at" yahoo "dot" com
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> rovernet mailing list
> rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
> To unsubscribe, go to this web page, look near the bottom and follow 
> instructions:
> http://mailman.nipltd.com/mailman/listinfo/rovernet
> Back-up list and photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/ 





------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 10:41:59 -0600
From: Stephen JC Beer <stephen at beerinc.com>
Subject: [ROVERNET - UK] Re: P6 Bonnet
To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
Message-ID: <3efc891a4ab976ef7704f677fb1e72bd at beerinc.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed

The 2000 and the 3500 hoods (bonnets) are, indeed, different. The 
3500's is an exasperating inch longer -- and for the US market has an 
awkward stainless strip at the front. I made a 3500 hood fit a 2000 
once but I would not do it again. I have a 3500 hood stripped of the 
goofy scoops that you could weld pieces over the scoop holes if it 
would help but there must be a better way. My suggestion would be to 
get a non-scooped 3500 hood and make sure your cooling system is up to 
snuff.

Stephen Beer
Milan, NY


On Jan 17, 2006, at 9:11 AM, Brooks wrote:

> Congrats on your new acquisition !! I have done my P6B's using both 
> methods you described...I strongly suggest you paint the inside of the 
> removed panels (since they are off already) in order to protect the 
> metal from rust and then put them back on the car to be painted in one 
> step. I say this because it's much harder to get the very same results 
> on individual panels...it can be done but it's not really worth the 
> concerns.
> I have done several vinyl tops and it is not a simple task (at least 
> to get a professional result) . Your local upholstery shop should have 
> all the products required (or be able to order them) to do the job, 
> just be certain to use the proper adhesive and don't skimp on how much 
> you apply. You probally already know that you just can't use any type 
> of vinyl...it must be UV resistant. It should be installed in a very 
> warm place and bring a friend to help you fit it onto the car.
> The hood shoud interchange (I've never done that myself) but I know 
> the scoops are there for a very valid reason especially in warmer 
> climates...additional cooling..so I would expect that could cause your 
> engine to run a bit hotter than intended...perhaps not enough to be a 
> valid concern but if you are planning to do much city driving it would 
> be worth consideration.
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "George Phelps" 
> <mrpink703 at yahoo.com>
> To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 8:58 AM
> Subject: [ROVERNET - UK] P6 Painting Pointers
>
>
>> Hello to all. I am now the proud new owner of Glen
>> Wilson's 3500S, and his parts car as well. Thanks
>> Glen!
>>
>> Car questions:
>> I am first looking for advice on painting. It seems
>> there are two ways to proceed, getting it painted
>> whole or panel by panel. This second option is
>> appealing to me as the panels are pretty much removed
>> already, and as I plan to put the vinyl stuff on the
>> roof, I don't need to worry about removing that. (if
>> anyone has done the vinyl I would be interested in
>> that info too). Anyway, taking the car in in bits just
>> seems a more interesting way to go than to take the
>> car into a shop whole.
>>
>> I would appreciate any thoughts on how best to proceed
>> and what I might expect to pay for a decent (not show
>> but not crap) job. I would also be happy to hear of
>> any good experiences with painters in the mid
>> Atlantic.
>>
>> I also hope to replace the hood scooped 3500 hood with
>> a plain one from a 2000.  Has anyone in a warmer clime
>> done this, I am a little concerned about heat issues.
>>
>> List questions:
>> 1)  Where would I get ideas on why I can't seem to
>> post to the list from my other the email address, but
>> can post from this one?
>> 2) Also, is there some way to search the entire
>> archives of this list, I can only seem to get parts of
>> it at a time. I have a feeling I am going to be asking
>> many, many questions, that have been asked before.
>>
>> Thanks everybody
>> George
>> p6_rover "at" yahoo "dot" com
>>
>> __________________________________________________
>> Do You Yahoo!?
>> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
>> http://mail.yahoo.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> rovernet mailing list
>> rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
>> To unsubscribe, go to this web page, look near the bottom and follow 
>> instructions:
>> http://mailman.nipltd.com/mailman/listinfo/rovernet
>> Back-up list and photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> rovernet mailing list
> rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
> To unsubscribe, go to this web page, look near the bottom and follow 
> instructions:
> http://mailman.nipltd.com/mailman/listinfo/rovernet
> Back-up list and photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>




------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 08:32:36 -0800
From: "James Dean" <jaguru at bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] P6 Painting Pointers
To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Message-ID: <000601c61b83$a0edc2c0$7001a8c0 at XKEJag>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
	reply-type=original

George; I painted my 1969 2000TC in Brigade red Dupont lacquer around 10 
years ago, removing all the panels except the roof .It is not easy to get a 
paint shop to do it this way , they all want to paint in one day and get 
paid. I  stripped all small panels in a strip tank, the doors, bonnet, boot,

and top, were stripped with stripper.I treated them all with Ospho.I  had 
the paint shop use metalprep , then etch primer, then epoxy primer.  Then I 
undercoated every panel with good quality undercoat, then they painted. I 
had them wetsand , reshoot, wetsand again, and buff each piece separately, 
then after the parts sat a month, I waxed them and assembled the car. It had

been a California, then Florida car, so had no rust , other than a tiny 
trunk hole, which was repaired.I had removed all glass, including doors,a 
major  job. I replaced all rubber behind panels, rubber around vent wisdows,

and front and back windscreen seals.I cleaned the bottom of thr car and 
undercoated it.I also added 1967 rear window frames,as I likevent windows.
                    After assembly, the car  was gorgeous, and was shipped 
by BMW/ Landrover NA, from Florida to Idaho, and put in the ballroom at the 
National  Landrover Dealer's convention, (along with MG's Minis. Landrovers,

and classic BMW's, and a '59 Rover I had restored). to show  the heritage of

the marques associated with and owned by  Rover (then owned by BMW). 3 
Months later, BMW sold Landrover to Ford; I always wondered if the Ford 
people were also at that resort. Perhaps my fine rover had something to do 
with the demise. I will never know.
                      Anyway, in my opinion this is the only right way to 
paint a P6. You probably won't  find anyone who wants to do it in lacquer; 
though I have the brigade red formula, and I have a source of lacquer, or I 
am told you can buy it in Canada. The paint was kept waxed. and was good at 
least 5 years, mostly in Florida sun. It has now been 10 years, the car is 
inside, and the paint on top is checked, but sides and jambs are still good.

I think it could be sanded down to primer where it is checked, and reshot, 
probably with modern paint, if the color could be matched; or redone in 
lacquer, in the same color. It would not have to be disassembled this time. 
As far as cost, I traded the Expensive German body shop Jaguar labor and 
parts, for the job,I did  assembly, reassembly, and stripped the fenders and

small parts. They had a painter and helper on it forweeks, and it had a 
$9,000 retail bill. It would probably be cheaper for you to buy my car, 
which I would like to sell. aside from a repaint  it now needs a clutch 
clutch  hydraulics, and a gearbox. It had  factory AC, has  Magstar wheels 
but has a 2000 engine My phone   is 1954JAGUARS, or email 
jaguru at bellsouth.net  I have lovely photos,after it was restored, if anyone 
wants them. I hope I have answered some questions James Dean, Ft. 
Lauderdale.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "George Phelps" <mrpink703 at yahoo.com>
To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 4:58 AM
Subject: [ROVERNET - UK] P6 Painting Pointers


> Hello to all. I am now the proud new owner of Glen
> Wilson's 3500S, and his parts car as well. Thanks
> Glen!
>
> Car questions:
> I am first looking for advice on painting. It seems
> there are two ways to proceed, getting it painted
> whole or panel by panel. This second option is
> appealing to me as the panels are pretty much removed
> already, and as I plan to put the vinyl stuff on the
> roof, I don't need to worry about removing that. (if
> anyone has done the vinyl I would be interested in
> that info too). Anyway, taking the car in in bits just
> seems a more interesting way to go than to take the
> car into a shop whole.
>
> I would appreciate any thoughts on how best to proceed
> and what I might expect to pay for a decent (not show
> but not crap) job. I would also be happy to hear of
> any good experiences with painters in the mid
> Atlantic.
>
> I also hope to replace the hood scooped 3500 hood with
> a plain one from a 2000.  Has anyone in a warmer clime
> done this, I am a little concerned about heat issues.
>
> List questions:
> 1)  Where would I get ideas on why I can't seem to
> post to the list from my other the email address, but
> can post from this one?
> 2) Also, is there some way to search the entire
> archives of this list, I can only seem to get parts of
> it at a time. I have a feeling I am going to be asking
> many, many questions, that have been asked before.
>
> Thanks everybody
> George
> p6_rover "at" yahoo "dot" com
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> rovernet mailing list
> rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
> To unsubscribe, go to this web page, look near the bottom and follow 
> instructions:
> http://mailman.nipltd.com/mailman/listinfo/rovernet
> Back-up list and photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/ 




------------------------------

Message: 5
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 11:43:07 -0500
From: Pjemail at aol.com
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] Re: P6 Bonnet
To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
Message-ID: <7A3A566D.0436978A.00195882 at aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

Why do you want to get rid of the scoops? Is it a question of aesthetics?
Even if it i, taking  them off will leave the car less authentic, and I
would think long and hard before doing that. In the UK, people are falling
over themselves to get the three scoop bonnet look.

Pierre Janusz



------------------------------

Message: 6
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 09:05:50 -0800 (PST)
From: Eric Russell <p6rovers at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] Re: P6 Bonnet
To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
Message-ID: <20060117170550.94831.qmail at web34301.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

George,
The advice offered to you so far has been
well-considered.
The Rover 2000 hood latch panel is a different design
and piece of sheet metal than the 3500S
The Rover 2000 hood leading edge is thicker
The 3500 S hood leading edge is thinner and has
cut-outs for the spire nuts which hold the aluminum
eyebrow

Our Club has a new old stock hood that is the same
dimensions as the 3500 S hood but without the cut-outs
for the hood scoops. When I stood them up side by side
in my yard, they had the same outside dimension and
looked the same.  When I laid it onto my 2000 engine
compartment, I could see that it would not fit.

It would be possible for you to have the "no hood
scoop look" on your car.  Ruth might be able to help
with a transportation quote for you.  The cost of
shipping anything these days seems to be ridiculous.

Now,....... Kent said he is coming this way this
summer.  Maybe he'd consider an excess baggage charge
on your behalf  :-)



Eric


--- Pjemail at aol.com wrote:

> Why do you want to get rid of the scoops? Is it a
> question of aesthetics? Even if it i, taking  them
> off will leave the car less authentic, and I would
> think long and hard before doing that. In the UK,
> people are falling over themselves to get the three
> scoop bonnet look.
> 
> Pierre Janusz
> 
> _______________________________________________
> rovernet mailing list
> rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
> To unsubscribe, go to this web page, look near the
> bottom and follow instructions:
> http://mailman.nipltd.com/mailman/listinfo/rovernet
> Back-up list and photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 


Webmaster & Magazine Editor:
The Rover Car Club of Canada -  www.roverclub.ca

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 



------------------------------

Message: 7
Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2006 09:46:06 +1100
From: Mark Brown <mbrown at automotiveforums.com>
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] Re: P6 Bonnet
To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
Message-ID: <1137537966.43cd73aec1ebc at mail.automotiveforums.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Judging by my experience with a 3500 without hood scoops in hot Australia,
your
cooling system really must be working well.  Friends with good cooling
systems
did not seem to have trouble; however, my mediocre cooling system was a bit
strained and made for some scary temp needle readings.  However, I can't say
what it's like with the scoops - maybe they don't make much of a difference
anyways?

Cheers
Mark Brown



------------------------------

_______________________________________________
rovernet mailing list
rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
To unsubscribe, go to this web page, scroll to the bottom, and follow
instructions:
http://mailman.nipltd.com/mailman/listinfo/rovernet
Back-up list and photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/

End of rovernet Digest, Vol 38, Issue 16
****************************************





More information about the rovernet mailing list