[ROVERNET - UK] P6B oil pump troubles

[Robert Thornton]

I made a priming tool for the SD1 type pump shafts from an old bottle
jack handle. 

It's also best to make sure you're using 20/50 oil in the sump, as some
of the more modern alternatives can be a bit on the thin side.

Other (unlikely) causes of no pump pressure are blocked sump pick up
pipe filter or missing gasket between pick up pipe and the internal
block oil gallery.

Rob

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at lyris.ccdata.com
[mailto:rovernet-bounces at lyris.ccdata.com] On Behalf Of John Burkhard
Sent: Thursday, 18 May 2006 2:22 AM
To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] P6B oil pump troubles

I think the small block Chevy tool will work.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glen Wilson" <glenwilson at cavtel.net>
To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 16, 2006 6:45 AM
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] P6B oil pump troubles


> On Tuesday 16 May 2006 08:12, Brooks wrote:
>> Question.....
>>
>>  by using the drill method are you not turning the engine over as
well 
>> ??
>> do you need to remove the plugs to alow the engine to turn easier ?
>>  What is needed to remove the front of the oil pump...is it much of a

>> job
>> to do ?
>>
>> Thanks for your advice..
>
> Dennis,
>
> If I have it right in my head, there is a gear that drives the 
> distributor
> shaft from the side, and the bottom of the distributor shaft in turn 
> drives
> the oil pump. The "screwdriver" tool goes in right past the gear that 
> drives
> the distributor shaft and drives the oil pump, bypassing the
distributor
> drive gear. The engine does not turn over at all, but the oil is
pumped
> through the passageways.
>
> There is a coupling at the end of the drive shaft that fits into the
oil 
> pump
> drive shaft. The coupling differs between the SD1 engine and earlier 
> engines.
> It's basically a "male" versus "female" difference. If you were to
swap a
> distributor from an SD1 to a 3500S, you would have to drive a little
pin 
> out
> and change the little coupling. Very simple procedure.
>
> I ground the plastic handle off of a medium size Sears screwdriver so 
> that all
> that was left was the metal "tang" of the tool. I simply put the 
> screwdriver
> into the chuck of a 1/2-inch drive electric drill and ran it at the
max 
> the
> drill put out (which I think was 550 rpm) and it was enough to get the

> oil
> pressure up into the bottom of the normal range of the oil pressure
gauge 
> in
> the instrument panel. The gauge works if the key is in the "on"
position. 
> It
> used to take about five seconds for the oil pressure to come up. I 
> believe
> the screwdriver blade fits into the oil pump drive gear on the older 
> 3500S
> engine whereas the SD1 would require something that would engage
> the "screwdriver tip/tab/thingie" that sticks up out of the SD1 oil
pump
> drive gear. For the 3500S, I attached a piece of hose over the end of
the
> screwdriver tip to keep it in the slot as I ran the drill.
>
> I think that later model GM V8s had a similar arrangement and that you

> can buy
> prefab tools at speed shops to do the function of the tool I made.
>
> As usual, I'm sure Kent can provide any specific info you need on
this. 
> He's a
> crafty bugger!
>
> Glen
>
>
>
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