[ROVERNET - UK] Oil pump, Oil Change Warning

Lewis, Joseph (Michael) jLewis at wsscwater.com
Thu Aug 23 13:44:20 BST 2007 

Robert -- 
I also love my SD1. It's turmeric yellow and I wouldn't have it any
other color. Along with the unique styling, that's the first thing that
catches people's eyes. 

This is the first I've heard of the unusual oil changing requirements.
I've been changing it the conventional way for 15 years and never had a
problem but I will change now that I have this information. 

Hey Glen, see you on "The Rocks."

Michael
1980 SD1 turmeric
1980 SD1 aqua


-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at lyris.ccdata.com
[mailto:rovernet-bounces at lyris.ccdata.com] On Behalf Of David Read
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 5:53 AM
To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] Oil pump, Oil Change Warning
Importance: Low

Kent
You forgot the squawking front struts and saggy headlining, or are they 
just an Oz thing?

;-)

Cheers
Dave
South Oz

Kent Kinard wrote:
> Hi Robert,
> I personally like the SD1...the styling, the handling, and the fact
that 
> it has 1/3 fewer parts than my P6B's.  I have had twelve since 1987
and 
> still buy them up when the price is reasonable.  The problems are 
> predictable and the solutions well known.  In spite of the fact that
it 
> has a dozen relays in the electrical system, I find it easy enough to 
> trouble shoot.
> Things to do to an SD1:
> -learn how to trouble shoot the EFI-Get Franc to massage your ECU and 
> fit a rising rate fuel pressure regulator.
> -find the reset button for the power windows and learn how to 
> disassemble and clean the switches
> -buy every headlamp flasher/dimmer switch you can find
> -squirt graphite in the steering column lock regularly-when it won't 
> unlock, drill out the bolts and throw it away-fit a plain key switch
in 
> the hole where the shift quadrant display is found-no sane person is 
> going to steal the car anyway
> -Replace the head bolts with studs (10 per side only)-fit new head
gaskets
> -discard the lock and lock plate on the hatch-learn how to open the 
> hatch with your finger
> -Replace the cam with a 3.9 L cam and the timing chain with a true 
> roller-add new lifters
> -If it's a 5spd, flush the trans and use a synthetic synchromesh
oil-if 
> it has over 60,000 miles and still shifts smooth, replace the bearings

> now and go another 60,000
> -if its an automatic, fit a GM 700-R4
> -Ditch the distributor, ballast resistor and coil-anything is 
> better-GM(points or HEI), Mallory, Accel, MSD or even later Range
Rover 
> with the control box on the wing.
> -use a fuel pump from a six cylinder Ford truck
> -Wait for the rack to leak-when you figure out which of the four 
> possible racks it has,rebuild it-then rebuild it again.  Fit new
hoses.
> -Replace the rear springs and shocks with 2300 units when the Nivomats

> give out
> -Get the seats recovered
> -paint it (If it is Tumeric, paint it a different color)
> -get some Euro type headlamps and bumpers
> -Now you have spent $12,000 on a car that's worth $2500 and is now
only 
> 2/3 Rover
> -keep it forever:-)
> -Get used to correcting people gently "No, Rover made Range Rovers,
not 
> the other way around."
> 
> Roverebuildably,
> Kent K.
> 
> On Wed, 22 Aug 2007 03:39:26 -1200
>  "Robert Heimerl" <robertime at cavtel.net> wrote:
>> [Hi, I've been just reading along for a couple of months,
>> but here goes...]
>>
>> Glen, it's not that you're lazy -- you were just taking an
>> easier route to the same destination (re-priming the oil
>> pump)!  Removing the oil pump cover on an SD1 is hardly a
>> picnic.  The "special multi-spline" bolts holding it in
>> place are very difficult to remove.  You must have 12-point
>> 5/16" sockets and, for one even less accessible bolt, a
>> miniature 5/16" box wrench.  Moreover, three different
>> length bolts (screws?) are used.  Because it's not
>> necessarily obvious which one goes in which location, these
>> must be kept in specific order.
>>
>> Now why would I be taking apart my car's oil pump?  I
>> suggest that all Rover V8 (at least SD1 version) owners read
>> the following very carefully (from a supplement to the
>> Haynes shop manual -- "Engine oil and filter - renewal"):
>>
>> "While the oil is draining, do not attempt to remove the oil
>> filter, as this will cause the oil pump to drain and could
>> cause lack of lubrication on restarting."
>>
>> Instead, the manual directs us to first refill the engine
>> with oil.
>>
>> "Now the filter can be removed and discarded."
>>
>> Another source, Practical Classics' "Rover SD1 Suvival
>> Guide," from October 1996, has the following statement in
>> its first paragraph:
>>
>> "Oil changes require a special procedure: if the oil pump
>> drains it takes a long time to prime, and MAY NEVER DO SO
>> COMPLETELY (emphasis added).  Change the oil filter first: Crawl
under 
>> the car with a new filter three-quarters full of
>> new oil, unscrew the old filter and then hand-tighten the
>> new one straight on.  Then drain and refill the sump with
>> fresh oil."
>>
>> Brilliant, perfectly brilliant, I say!  What other sort of
>> consumer-unfriendly practices could they come up with? Only
>> Rover (or it's remnants) know for sure!  [The fact that
>> these two sources contradict one another regarding the order
>> of changing the oil and  filter should reassure the rest of
>> us, too!]
>>
>> So how long until my oil pump regains prime?  Hopefully not
>> the above-referenced "never."  I've not yet reassembled it,
>> but will use the "packing with vaseline" method recommended
>> by Glen and a variety of reliable sources. Interestingly
>> enough, I've seen a special tool up for auction on eBay.uk,
>> specifically designed for repriming this pump (via the
>> distributor method).
>>
>> How many quick-change oil places would follow the proper
>> procedures?  How many do-it-yourselfers would know to avoid
>> this problem?  On my previous SD1, I never had this happen
>> (and, yes, there are other possible reasons that my current
>> one may have low oil pressure -- but this developed under
>> the specific circumstances described above).  And does
>> anyone out there recommend using single weight oil, rather
>> than the 20w-50 Castrol GT that I normally use?
>>
>> Meanwhile, the rather noisy fuel pump on my car (1980 SD1
>> 3.5 V8) decided to pack it in, too.  I've had an interesting
>> search for this item, cross-referencing Bosch part numbers,
>> etc., getting quotes from about $100 to $400 (I just got one
>> for $150).  If anyone's interested, I can share more
>> detailed information on this subject.  Due to the tiny
>> vehicle population over here few places actually have a
>> listing for 1980-81 Rover 3500 components, but eBay is
>> helpful nowadays. [Yes, these pumps are used on other
>> vehicles. Can you say "Jaguar" with that appropriately
>> snooty British style of pronunciation?]
>>
>> By the way, who is actually being given access to the parts
>> cars offered by the gentleman in British Columbia?  I guess
>> we should call him directly, right?
>>
>> Since I owned one of these cars previously, some out there
>> may be saying "it serves him right, he should know better." Still, I 
>> find them interesting.  Anyone else out there who
>> likes the SD1's?  I noted a disparaging remark recently,
>> and, yes, know the car's sad story very well.  I also took
>> in the YouTube BBC History of Rover -- it's quite good,
>> worthwhile seeing, in spite of the obnoxious "car guy"
>> mouthing off in front of the last (BMW-developed) Rover 75. A friend 
>> in London had one on a lease which ended last year,
>> really liked it.  He'd have to turn to the Chinese to get a
>> replacement, it appears!
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> (Rover) Robert
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> denlet wrote:
>>>
>>> GLEN:
>>> you can also put an 1/4 liter of "VASELINE" (petroleum
>>> jelly buy in drugstore ) in the oil pump.Vaseline is
>>> completely mixed with oil.It's very good to have a good
>>> pressure for the first start. If you take a drill after
>>> about 2 mn, you must  have a pressure , the drill turn
>>> more slowly, the pressure become higher. The best is to
>>> fill the hydraulic tappets.(leave in a box during 24 H in
>>> special oil ).
>>>
>>>
>>>         thank you           denis
>>>
>>>
>>> Good advice, Denis. Some of us are too lazy to take the
>>> oil pump apart but have lots of time to remove the
>>> distributor, build a special tool to fit the drill, and
>>> reinstall the distributor!   ;-)
>>>
>>> Glen
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
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> 
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