[ROVERNET - UK] 1930s radiator alignment

phing phing at videotron.ca
Sun Nov 25 20:01:51 GMT 2007


Alan
 I played similar tunes whenI rebuilt my P3 . Don't try to get new Japanese car panel fits . The whole front end of the P2 and P3 
flexes so you need a reasonable gap between panels to avoid rubbing and paint chipping . The key to aligning a P3 front end is the 
correct location of the radator . This can be shimmed up and down from under the bottom tank and aligned from front to back and side 
to side by " tuning" the two stays which run back to the fire wall from the header tank
On a P3 the front wings are carried on two cows horn supports whichare bolted to a cross member which runs under the bottom of the 
radiator . there is a fair amount of adjustment available here as the bolt holes are all elliptical and all the bolts are accsesible 
.
Most of the bolts holding the front wings to the rad surround are inaccesible when the surround is fitted Two people can " sproing" 
the whole assembly into place , lining up the bonnet top and radiator surround , the bonnet sides with the radiator, the top of the 
wing and fire wall  and the trailing edge of the wings with the running boards . It sounds complicated but it simply takes time and 
patience .If you get frustrated , put away the tools and retire to a beverage of your choice !!-
Cheers
 Patrick ---- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alan Gale" <agale at iinet.net.au>
To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 3:15 AM
Subject: [ROVERNET - UK] 1930s radiator alignment


> Has anyone with P<4 experience cracked the secret to radiator alignment?
> I cannot get the radiator on the Rover 10 to sit happily in alignment with
> the bonnet (hood).
> No matter how I adjust it, it always seems to settle itself so that it is
> not parallel to the bonnet front, but is at a slight angle, so one side of
> the bonnet rests firmly against the radiator surround (awakening fears of it
> slowly chewing its way through) and the other side is about 5mm clear.
> The radiator rests on a rubber pad, is connected to the engine (and
> therefore subject to some adjustment) by radiator hoses and is linked to the
> bulkhead (fire wall) by two rods which give "fore and aft" tilt adjustment
> to the radiator top.
> Then there are the two rods coming in from the mudguard (fender) brackets
> which bolt on to the radiator at either side.
> All other pre-war radiators I have dealt with have had some sort of solid
> mooring at the base which can be adjusted.
> I have tried several times the method of slackening off all connections,
> getting it all aligned and then tightening up to that setting ... no
> permanent joy.
> Is there something from the bleeding obvious category that I am missing?
> Alan Gale
>
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