[ROVERNET - UK] 1930s radiator alignment
phing at videotron.ca
Sun Nov 25 20:01:51 GMT 2007
I played similar tunes whenI rebuilt my P3 . Don't try to get new Japanese car panel fits . The whole front end of the P2 and P3
flexes so you need a reasonable gap between panels to avoid rubbing and paint chipping . The key to aligning a P3 front end is the
correct location of the radator . This can be shimmed up and down from under the bottom tank and aligned from front to back and side
to side by " tuning" the two stays which run back to the fire wall from the header tank
On a P3 the front wings are carried on two cows horn supports whichare bolted to a cross member which runs under the bottom of the
radiator . there is a fair amount of adjustment available here as the bolt holes are all elliptical and all the bolts are accsesible
Most of the bolts holding the front wings to the rad surround are inaccesible when the surround is fitted Two people can " sproing"
the whole assembly into place , lining up the bonnet top and radiator surround , the bonnet sides with the radiator, the top of the
wing and fire wall and the trailing edge of the wings with the running boards . It sounds complicated but it simply takes time and
patience .If you get frustrated , put away the tools and retire to a beverage of your choice !!-
Patrick ---- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Gale" <agale at iinet.net.au>
To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 3:15 AM
Subject: [ROVERNET - UK] 1930s radiator alignment
> Has anyone with P<4 experience cracked the secret to radiator alignment?
> I cannot get the radiator on the Rover 10 to sit happily in alignment with
> the bonnet (hood).
> No matter how I adjust it, it always seems to settle itself so that it is
> not parallel to the bonnet front, but is at a slight angle, so one side of
> the bonnet rests firmly against the radiator surround (awakening fears of it
> slowly chewing its way through) and the other side is about 5mm clear.
> The radiator rests on a rubber pad, is connected to the engine (and
> therefore subject to some adjustment) by radiator hoses and is linked to the
> bulkhead (fire wall) by two rods which give "fore and aft" tilt adjustment
> to the radiator top.
> Then there are the two rods coming in from the mudguard (fender) brackets
> which bolt on to the radiator at either side.
> All other pre-war radiators I have dealt with have had some sort of solid
> mooring at the base which can be adjusted.
> I have tried several times the method of slackening off all connections,
> getting it all aligned and then tightening up to that setting ... no
> permanent joy.
> Is there something from the bleeding obvious category that I am missing?
> Alan Gale
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