[ROVERNET - UK] 3500s auto transmission shifting
magnet at roverclub.org
Tue Mar 25 12:28:06 GMT 2008
The kickdown cable on my son's (now my) early 3500S had no crimped stop,
either. We adjusted it using the pressure measurement method, per the
Re the squealing, are the bands OK and correctly adjusted? The front
band is supposed to be self-adjusting, but I've noticed that on a number
of BW type 35s, the little spring on the adjusting screw is not properly
positioned in the slot, rendering the self-adjuster inoperative --
probably incorrect assembly by an earlier rebuilder. You need to drop
the pan to adjust the front band, but the rear one can be got at from
inside the car, thro' a hole in the floor. With the pan off the
transmission, you can also adjust the kickdown cable to its correct
setting mechanically, that is, without a pressure gauge.
Re your last point, I think the factory are working on the assumption
that, all else being correct, if the kickdown cable is adjusted to spec,
the shift speeds will be correct.
Peter King wrote:
> Hi All,
> I recently replaced my 3500s transmission (automatic), and this
> weekend, spent some time adjusting the kick-down cable to work
> properly. After reviewing the shop manual, It appears the cable is not
> original spec, (or the crimped stop on the cable is missing) so the
> procedure for measuring the adjustment does not hold up. I've got it
> adjusted so it works well now, shifting down when the accelerator is
> put to the floor, and at the correct speeds.
> It seems as though the light throttle shifting occurs at higher speeds
> than it should--20+ mph for first to second, and 30+ for second to
> third. The full throttle shifting is in the correct range, 30+ for
> first to second, 50+ for second to third. And the maximum throttle
> shift changes seem to be at ok speeds.
> But on maximum throttle from start, I get what I think might be a
> clutch "squeal" at gear shift intervals. This only happens if I keep
> the pedal to the floor through all gears. The book describes this
> squeal, but says nothing about what to do about it. (The first thing I
> need to do is check my belt tension to be sure that's not the squeal
> I'm hearing...)
> It also seems to shift a bit "harder", not as smoothly as when the
> cable was improperly adjusted. When the cable was loose, I had no kick
> down at all, but the gear changes from start were smoother.
> The book says NOT TO adjust the kick-down cable to change fluid
> pressure/gear change speed, but how else would this be adjusted?
> Any thoughts?
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