[ROVERNET - UK] Engine head question?
kkinard at wcc.net
Sat Dec 30 21:03:16 GMT 2006
If you are going to break a head bolt, that's the one to
break. No need to do any removal or repair. Please
reread my post on the subject of head attachment. You
DON'T need the outer row at all. Do NOT torque the other
bolts tighter...66 lb ft is enough even with steel gaskets
and only 10 bolts to a side. It is more important that
the bolts be torqued in proper sequence and in stages as I
so carefully outlined. To torque the bolts tigher only
risks distorting the block face. Check the block face for
flatness. It the block face is distorted, it should be
removed and planed.
Andrew didn't have room in his Echo to take the heads
back with him so they will be shipped Tuesday. Remember
the SD1 heads use plugs of different reach from the P6B
heads. Do not try to use P6B valves, valve springs or
valve spring retainers on the SD1 heads. These parts do
not interchange, but the assembled heads I am sending you
will interchange with the P6B heads as complete
assemblies. No need to change pushrods or anything else.
How gummed up was the inside of the engine?
Hope you don't have to pull it out.
On Fri, 29 Dec 2006 14:03:06 -0800 (PST)
David Sheuring <rovertcv8 at yahoo.com> wrote:
> Hi everyone.....
> I hope everyone has had a wonderful Christmas
> My question is this.....I have found out now that
> someone HAS been into this motor because the left bank
> cylinder head had a bolts that someone had cross
> threaded and now....it sheared off.
> Ket had mentioned where he only used the 10 primary
> head bolts to tighten the head back on and the bolt
> that sheared is one of the secondary ones...the one
> closetest to the outside of the block...there are 4 of
> Now, without having to remove the engine out and have
> a shop fix it, can I just use the 10 bolts and torque
> them tighter.
> Please let me know as I would REALLY like to put this
> engine back together....or am I ...umm...screwed
> Please get back with me and let me know
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