[ROVERNET - UK] Engine head question?
rovertcv8 at yahoo.com
Sun Dec 31 03:28:02 GMT 2006
Good Evening Kent,
Thanks for the best news...and I found and printed the
email on the heads. The inside of the motor is in
beautiful shape. No gumming at all. The car has only
56,000 miles and looks it. I was amazed to find some
cross hatch still in the cylinder bores. I have
already checked to block surface with a true flat
steel and find no high/low spots. How ever, post head
gaskets had been put on wrong side up. I engine man
noticed that right away, so I am cleaning motor and am
also putting on a new oil pump and a p/u unit. Am
replacing the rear seal as well so its very good.
Thanks so mch for your help...its funny, I owned a P5B
back in 84 that I brought back to America and it had
the same V8. I do remember the mechanics over in
Scotland telling me how different motor it was and
that you had to be careful with it cause of it being
Well, I must tell you that the Corsica Blue 70TC is up
and running great, again, thats to Ruth from ABC.
Oh...how I have missed driving a 4 speed Rover 2000.
Now THATS a great Christmas gift to me.
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you and your
PS: Thanks for the Rover heads...I will pay for the
freight at least.....and maybe send you a good bootle
of single malt Scotch
--- Kent Kinard <kkinard at wcc.net> wrote:
> Hi David,
> If you are going to break a head bolt, that's the
> one to
> break. No need to do any removal or repair. Please
> reread my post on the subject of head attachment.
> DON'T need the outer row at all. Do NOT torque the
> bolts tighter...66 lb ft is enough even with steel
> and only 10 bolts to a side. It is more important
> the bolts be torqued in proper sequence and in
> stages as I
> so carefully outlined. To torque the bolts tigher
> risks distorting the block face. Check the block
> face for
> flatness. It the block face is distorted, it should
> removed and planed.
> Andrew didn't have room in his Echo to take the
> back with him so they will be shipped Tuesday.
> the SD1 heads use plugs of different reach from the
> heads. Do not try to use P6B valves, valve springs
> valve spring retainers on the SD1 heads. These
> parts do
> not interchange, but the assembled heads I am
> sending you
> will interchange with the P6B heads as complete
> assemblies. No need to change pushrods or anything
> How gummed up was the inside of the engine?
> Hope you don't have to pull it out.
> Kent K.
> On Fri, 29 Dec 2006 14:03:06 -0800 (PST)
> David Sheuring <rovertcv8 at yahoo.com> wrote:
> > Hi everyone.....
> > I hope everyone has had a wonderful Christmas
> > My question is this.....I have found out now that
> > someone HAS been into this motor because the left
> > cylinder head had a bolts that someone had cross
> > threaded and now....it sheared off.
> > Ket had mentioned where he only used the 10
> > head bolts to tighten the head back on and the
> > that sheared is one of the secondary ones...the
> > closetest to the outside of the block...there are
> 4 of
> > those.
> > Now, without having to remove the engine out and
> > a shop fix it, can I just use the 10 bolts and
> > them tighter.
> > Please let me know as I would REALLY like to put
> > engine back together....or am I ...umm...screwed
> > Please get back with me and let me know
> > Cheers
> > David
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