[ROVERNET - UK] Engine head question?

[Kent Kinard]

Hi David,
What happened to your P5B?

All sounds promising on your engine and the composite 
gaskets will bring the CR down a little, which is good, 
and allow you to run a little more iginition advance than 
the 10.25:1 CR would allow.

Roverly,
Kent K.

On Sat, 30 Dec 2006 19:28:02 -0800 (PST)
  David Sheuring <rovertcv8 at yahoo.com> wrote:
> Good Evening Kent,
> Thanks for the best news...and I found and printed the
> email on the heads. The inside of the motor is in
> beautiful shape. No gumming at all. The car has only
> 56,000 miles and looks it. I was amazed to find some
> cross hatch still in the cylinder bores. I have
> already checked to block surface with a true flat
> steel and find no high/low spots. How ever, post head
> gaskets had been put on wrong side up. I engine man
> noticed that right away, so I am cleaning motor and am
> also putting on a new oil pump and a p/u unit. Am
> replacing the rear seal as well so its very good.
> Thanks so mch for your help...its funny, I owned a P5B
> back in 84 that I brought back to America and it had
> the same V8. I do remember the mechanics over in
> Scotland telling me how different motor it was and
> that you had to be careful with it cause of it being
> aluminum.
> Well, I must tell you that the Corsica Blue 70TC is up
> and running great, again, thats to Ruth from ABC.
> Oh...how I have missed driving a 4 speed Rover 2000.
> Now THATS a great Christmas gift to me.
> 
> Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you and your
> family.
> 
> Cheers
>From
> Lillington, NC
> David
> 
> PS: Thanks for the Rover heads...I will pay for the
> freight at least.....and maybe send you a good bootle
> of single malt Scotch
> --- Kent Kinard <kkinard at wcc.net> wrote:
> 
>> Hi David,
>> If you are going to break a head bolt, that's the
>> one to 
>> break.  No need to do any removal or repair.  Please
>> 
>> reread my post on the subject of head attachment. 
>> You 
>> DON'T need the outer row at all.  Do NOT torque the
>> other 
>> bolts tighter...66 lb ft is enough even with steel
>> gaskets 
>> and only 10 bolts to a side.  It is more important
>> that 
>> the bolts be torqued in proper sequence and in
>> stages as I 
>> so carefully outlined.   To torque the  bolts tigher
>> only 
>> risks distorting the block face.  Check the block
>> face for 
>> flatness.  It the block face is distorted, it should
>> be 
>> removed and planed.
>> 
>>   Andrew didn't have room in his Echo to take the
>> heads 
>> back with him so they will be shipped Tuesday. 
>> Remember 
>> the SD1 heads use plugs of different reach from the
>> P6B 
>> heads.  Do not try to use P6B valves, valve springs
>> or 
>> valve spring retainers on the SD1 heads.  These
>> parts do 
>> not interchange, but the assembled heads I am
>> sending you 
>> will interchange with the P6B heads as complete 
>> assemblies.  No need to change pushrods or anything
>> else.
>> 
>> How gummed up was the inside of the engine?
>> 
>> Hope you don't have to pull it out.
>> 
>> Roverly,
>> Kent K.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Fri, 29 Dec 2006 14:03:06 -0800 (PST)
>>   David Sheuring <rovertcv8 at yahoo.com> wrote:
>> > Hi everyone.....
>> > I hope everyone has had a wonderful Christmas
>> > 
>> > My question is this.....I have found out now that
>> > someone HAS been into this motor because the left
>> bank
>> > cylinder head had a bolts that someone had cross
>> > threaded and now....it sheared off.
>> > Ket had mentioned where he only used the 10
>> primary
>> > head bolts to tighten the head back on and the
>> bolt
>> > that sheared is one of the secondary ones...the
>> one
>> > closetest to the outside of the block...there are
>> 4 of
>> > those.
>> > Now, without having to remove the engine out and
>> have
>> > a shop fix it, can I just use the 10 bolts and
>> torque
>> > them tighter.
>> > Please let me know as I would REALLY like to put
>> this
>> > engine back together....or am I ...umm...screwed
>> > Please get back with me and let me know
>> > Cheers
>> > David
>> > 
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