[ROVERNET - UK] Starter Woes/Weepy Engine Side Cover TC2000

Sat Dec 22 08:26:57 GMT 2007

I have a pair of cad plated ones, so that is possible too.

PVS

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Roger.Matheson" <roger.matheson at bigpond.com>
To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2007 6:45 PM
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] Starter Woes/Weepy Engine Side Cover TC2000

> Hi all
> Happy Christmas etc from Oz.  Someone told me once that the thing to do 
> with side covers was to remove, sandblast or similar aggresive cleaning 
> and then tin with solder on the inside surface.  This procedure would 
> theoretically repair the side cover pin holes, fill suspect corrosion pits 
> and prevent further corrosion.  Is this possible / desirable etc.  Cheers
>
> Roger
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Vern Klukas" <vern at inkspotco.com>
> To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
> Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2007 6:17 PM
> Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] Starter Woes/Weepy Engine Side Cover TC2000
>
>
>>I agree that doing it in car is tough, but doable.
>>
>> New sideplates are readily available.
>>
>> As for flat stainless plates, corrosion shouldn't be a problem, 
>> considering we all change our coolant regularly (nudge, nudge) and that 
>> is the only advantage to that approach given you can get new ones.
>>
>> You'll need new gaskets as well, Ruth can advise on those.
>>
>> If you can determine the weep's source, and it is just a pinhole or two, 
>> you can buy time by draining the coolant, cleaning a good sized patch 
>> around the pinholes really, really well, then applying something like JB 
>> Weld or gas tank patch putty over the entire cleaned area. It works OK, 
>> if you really only have a pinhole or two, they aren't real close to the 
>> plate's edge and the patch is at least a couple of inches in size. Oh, 
>> and when I say clean, I mean eat off it clean.
>>
>> Yours
>> Vern
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>It is possible to remove them with engine in situ.
>>>I have done it.
>>>It is Not easy!  Rover P6...
>>>If you have an engine lifter, go that way.
>>>The hardest part is removing the engine mount stud things.
>>>There is no easy way.  You have to put the 9/16 nuts back on with washers 
>>>for the large nuts to tighten against, and heave on the large nuts.
>>>I didn't remove the oil pump, but that may have been a mistake.
>>>They can be welded up.  You will need to pull the left one too, and 
>>>remove all the sludge.
>>>Yes I have stainless ones on my car now.  They were made by Jimmy, 
>>>Royce's friend.
>>>Just flat plates with the holes drilled.  This increases the water 
>>>volume, which slows warmup.
>>>Always use a corrosion inhibitor in the water.
>>>
>>>PVS
>>>
>>>
>>>----- Original Message ----- From: <rwacek at comcast.net>
>>>To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
>>>Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2007 2:48 PM
>>>Subject: [ROVERNET - UK] Starter Woes/Weepy Engine Side Cover TC2000
>>>
>>>>Season's Greetings Rovernetters.
>>>>
>>>>I'm the guy who lost his starter spring and nut down in the bellhousing. 
>>>>After hours of fishing for it I took Ruth's advice and drilled a hole in 
>>>>the bottom of the bellhousing (after finding a metal holesaw) just 
>>>>behind the flywheel. There the culprits were! Problem was the hole was 1 
>>>>1/4 inch and the spring was about 1 3/8 inch. So I drilled another one 
>>>>right next to the edge of the first one. I then rasped away the excess. 
>>>>I now have a rectangular hole 1 1/4 inch by about 2 or 2 1/8 inches. 
>>>>It's rectangular but with rounded inside corners if you can imagine. I 
>>>>then obsessed about finding a rubber hole plug to fit. Googled "rubber 
>>>>hole plug" and went off in another universe. If I had just drilled a 1 
>>>>1/2 hole to begin with it would have been a much easier task to find a 
>>>>plug. I know there is a plug somewhere in the world that will work. The 
>>>>biggest issue is the 3/16 inch thickness of the bellhousing. Anyway what 
>>>>I wound up doing was gluing a thin aluminum brake caliper silen
>>>>cer pa
>>>>d over the hole. It actually looks like it could be a factory cover. 
>>>>We'll see how long that will last
>>>>Meanwhile while I was under there I noticed that the RH engine sidecover 
>>>>was "wweping". The LH is OK. It looks like if I removed the RH engine 
>>>>support and then braced that side I could remove the sidecover although 
>>>>with inherent difficulty. Anyone done this? Then there would be the 
>>>>matter of finding another sidecover. Didn't I read years ago on this 
>>>>list about someone who had stainless ones fabricated? All advice would 
>>>>be massively appreciated.
>>>>
>>>>_______________________________________________
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>>>>instructions:
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>>>>http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>--
>>>>No virus found in this incoming message.
>>>>Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>>>>Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.6/1192 - Release Date: 
>>>>21/12/2007 1:17 PM
>>>>
>>>
>>>_______________________________________________
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>>>To unsubscribe, go to this web page, look near the bottom and follow 
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>>
>>
>> -- 
>> Vern Klukas                             I'm a little . . .
>> Inkspot Type & Design
>> vern at inkspotco.com
>>
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>>
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>
>
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> Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 
> 269.17.6/1192 - Release Date: 21/12/2007 1:17 PM
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