[ROVERNET - UK] engine rebuilder suggestions

phing phing at videotron.ca
Thu Jan 17 15:58:34 GMT 2008

 I would suggest you buy a shop manual  and parts list on E Bay and do it yourself . I have rebuilt Rover P2 , Series 1 LR and Rover 
P3  engines , the granddaddy of your engine at home, with no problems .I'm not a mechanic , just an old fart with a likiing for odd 
old cars, a set of tools  and a limited toy budget
     These engines are really pretty basic , they  need blacksmithing , rather than brain surgery ;they were built on steam 
locomotive lines .Why pay some one $$$s per hour to learn about IOE engines at your expense and waste paid  hours finding out where 
to buy parts ?? . You can always  buy the parts yourself  and subcontract the difficult bits , valve guide replacement , head 
machining etc . I think that Rover had progressed to UNF/ UNC threads by the time the 110 engine was built , so you wouldn't even 
need a set of BSF wrenches
 You will need :gallons of penetrating oil and degreaser ,  a gasket set , , new inlet valve guides and seals , valve springs , 
refurbished rocker shaft [ I found a guy in California who specialises in British rocker shaft restoration , at good prices .] you 
may  possibly need exhaust valves and guides . The state of the bores will decide if you need a rebore , pistons and rings . If the 
bores are OK the pistons can be remachined to take new rings, or there is a company in Australia which specialises in making new 
pistons for old machinery  .If your block has the angled head face  you may have problems finding a shop with a boring jig to 
accommodate the slope.You should have the head machined as a matter of course ,my P3 engine had a 12 thou bow from end to end
  Rover IOE camshafts tend to wear , but the 110 engine had roller followers which were supposed to solve this problem . I have not 
found a Rover engine with significant wear in  camshaft bearings ,oil pump , or main bearings [ even in a high mileage P2 with no 
oil filtration. the LR and  P3 with by pass filtration]. I have replaced big ends as a routine procedure. Based on my experience 
You probably won't need a crank regrind . You should replace the clutch and check the release bearing while the engine is out of the 
car . Your LR will have a sensible Borg and Beck unit rather than the  earlier " special " Rover clutch which needs to be set up by 
a brain surgeon  . You should also strip and check the water pump , mine started to leak , after I had the engine back in place !
I used local shops for my machining etc . no one had seen an IOE engine , they were all intrigued and happy to contribute their 
expertise at reasonable cost . There's lots of help available on the web , so go to it .
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Aidrian Bridgeman-Sutton" <smokeandsteam at gmail.com>
To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2008 10:56 PM
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] engine rebuilder suggestions

> Linus
> I have a feeling that most IOE rebuilds in recent memory have owed
> more to home gargae ingenuity than paid workmen. at least on this side
> of the water
> I would talk to West Coast British in Livermore; they will at least
> recognise the engine for what it is which is more than most places can
> say.
> http://www.offroadexperience.com/wcb/index.html
> Aidrian
>> Do any of you have suggestions for a person experienced with this type of engine? Hopefully in California somewhere? It is 
>> currently at the land rover engine rebulider, but he has never done one and is taking forever just to tell us what we need to 
>> buy. Its been there at least six months without having even been dismantled.
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